Cabinet Refacing
Cabinet Refacing near you
Replace cabinet doors and fronts while keeping the boxes. Tell us about your cabinet refacing project and we’ll help you find local cabinet installers who serve your area.
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Cabinet refacing gives a kitchen or bathroom a new look while the cabinet boxes stay where they are. The installer removes the old doors, drawer fronts and hinges, covers the visible face frames and end panels with a new veneer, then hangs new doors and fronts with new hardware. Crown moulding along the top, a new toe kick at the floor and matching filler strips usually complete the job, so the result reads as one new set of cabinets rather than old boxes wearing new doors.
Refacing suits kitchens whose layout still works and whose boxes are solid, but whose doors are dated, damaged or in a style you no longer want. The countertop, sink, plumbing and appliances generally stay in place, which makes refacing far less disruptive than tearing out the kitchen. It can't fix a poor layout or boxes that water has ruined, though.
Our cabinet painting page compares painting, refacing and replacing, and the kitchen cabinets page covers new cabinets. Here we go further into refacing itself: what it includes, veneer choices, when it works, hinge and drawer upgrades, measuring and ordering doors, what daily life looks like during the work, and formaldehyde in composite doors.
What cabinet refacing includes: new doors, drawer fronts, veneer and trim
A complete refacing touches every visible surface of the cabinets. The quote should list each item, because new doors alone and a full refacing are very different jobs, and the difference shows most at the frames and the ends of each run.
- New doors and drawer fronts, made to the measurements of each opening in the style and finish you choose.
- Veneer applied to the face frames and to the exposed sides of the boxes, so the frames match the new doors.
- New end panels where a cabinet side is visible, such as at the end of a run or beside the fridge, often thicker than a veneer for a finished look.
- New hinges, pulls and knobs, and usually new drawer slides where the existing ones are worn.
- Crown moulding along the top of the upper cabinets, and often a light rail underneath to screen under-cabinet lights.
- A new toe kick at the bottom of the base cabinets, plus matching filler strips and scribe mouldings against the walls.
Cabinet refacing veneers and doors: real wood, thermofoil and laminate
The veneer on the frames and the finish on the doors should be chosen together, so the grain, colour and sheen match from one surface to the next. Most suppliers offer the same families of finishes for both.
- Real wood veneer is a thin sheet of wood backed with paper or fabric; it takes stain or paint and shows natural grain, but it calls for a careful installer at corners and edges and can be sanded only lightly.
- Paint-grade doors in MDF or solid wood, sprayed in a shop, pair with a paintable veneer on the frames for a smooth, even colour.
- Thermofoil is a vinyl film heat-formed over shaped fibreboard; its seamless surface wipes clean easily, but it can lift near heat sources such as the oven or a toaster, so the installer may add a protective panel beside the range.
- Rigid laminate, a harder sheet than thin vinyl, resists scuffs and stains well and comes in solid colours and wood looks; its edges are the weak point and should be well sealed.
When cabinet refacing works, and when new cabinets are the better choice
Refacing puts a new face on the existing cabinets, so everything behind that face has to be worth keeping. A good installer inspects the boxes before quoting, including under the sink, and tells you frankly if they aren't.
- Refacing works when the boxes are square, dry and firmly fastened, and the shelves and cabinet bottoms don't sag.
- It works when you like the layout: the sink, range and fridge stay where they are and the storage suits the way you cook.
- Framed cabinets are the classic candidates because the veneer covers the face frames; frameless boxes can be refaced too, with new edge banding on the box fronts.
- It doesn't make sense when the sink base or the side next to the dishwasher has swollen or crumbled from leaks, since a veneer won't stop or hide that damage for long.
- It doesn't fix a layout that fails you, such as missing drawers, a corner that wastes space or an appliance that no longer fits its opening.
- If a new countertop is also planned, settle the order of work first, because the counter's overhang and the thickness of the new doors must agree.
Adding soft-close hinges and better drawers when refacing cabinets
Because every door comes off anyway, refacing is the easiest moment to change how the cabinets work, not just how they look. New doors are bored for their hinges in the shop or on site, so the hinge type is part of the order, and it is worth deciding on drawer changes at the same time.
- Concealed hinges with built-in soft-close dampers stop doors from slamming and let the installer fine-tune the gaps between doors.
- Old exposed or semi-concealed face-frame hinges are usually replaced by concealed hinges with mounting plates suited to the frame.
- Worn drawer boxes can be replaced with new boxes on full-extension, soft-close slides, keeping only the cabinet opening.
- Some base cabinets with a door and shelves can be converted to deep drawers, which bring pots and pantry items within reach; ask whether the box interior allows it.
Measuring and ordering new cabinet doors and drawer fronts
Doors and fronts are made to order, so the measurements decide everything. The installer records each opening, the width of the face frame around it, how far the doors will overlap the frame, and where hinges, pulls, appliances and walls limit how far a door can open. Doors near an inside corner or beside the fridge need enough clearance to swing fully and to let drawers slide past neighbouring handles.
Once the order is placed, the doors and fronts are built and finished, and the work in your kitchen starts only when they arrive. A typical installation follows these steps:
- Removing the old doors, drawer fronts and hardware, and setting aside anything that will be reused.
- Cleaning and degreasing the face frames and cabinet sides so the veneer bonds properly.
- Applying veneer to the frames and sides, trimming it at every edge, and installing new end panels.
- Hanging and adjusting the new doors, fitting the drawer fronts and installing the pulls.
- Adding the crown moulding, light rail, toe kicks and filler strips, then touching up and cleaning.
Cabinet refacing vs a full kitchen renovation: how disruptive is it?
With refacing, the kitchen keeps working through most of the project. The countertop, sink, backsplash, appliances, plumbing and wiring stay put, there is no demolition, and the dust comes mainly from trimming veneer and drilling. The longest wait, while the doors are being made, happens before the installer arrives rather than while your kitchen is torn apart.
- Empty the cabinets the crew will work on; many installers do one section at a time so the rest of the kitchen stays usable.
- Expect some noise and fine dust while veneer is trimmed and holes are drilled, and keep children and pets out of the work area.
- Contact cement and other veneer adhesives can smell while they are applied, so ask what the installer uses and ventilate the room.
Formaldehyde in composite cabinet doors: what to ask your supplier
Many refacing doors, drawer fronts and end panels have a core of medium-density fibreboard or particleboard under the finish. Health Canada lists composite wood products among the indoor sources of formaldehyde, notes that levels can be higher in recently renovated homes, and suggests choosing products with a laminate or coating on all sides, or sealing them. Canada's Formaldehyde Emissions from Composite Wood Products Regulations set emission limits for these panels and for finished goods made with them, such as cabinet doors, and require them to be labelled as compliant.
- Ask the supplier to confirm in writing that the composite panels in your doors and end panels comply with the Canadian regulations.
- Check that door backs and edges are finished too, not left as bare fibreboard, especially on drawer fronts and panels beside the dishwasher.
- Ventilate well while veneer adhesives cure and in the period after the new doors go up, running the range hood and opening windows when the weather allows.
Cabinet Refacing: frequently asked questions
How long does cabinet refacing take?
Most of the time goes into making the doors and fronts, which starts once the measurements and finishes are approved. The installation itself is much shorter than a renovation, and the kitchen stays largely usable while it happens. Ask for a schedule showing the order date, the expected delivery and the installation days.
Can I keep my countertop when refacing cabinets?
Usually, yes. The countertop, sink and backsplash stay in place and the installer works around them. Check that the new doors and drawer fronts, which may be thicker than the old ones, still clear the counter's overhang and the handles of nearby appliances.
Can laminate or thermofoil cabinets be refaced?
Often, yes. The old doors are discarded anyway, and the frames and sides get a new surface. On slick melamine or vinyl-wrapped boxes, the installer has to prepare the surface carefully so the new veneer bonds, and may suggest thin panels instead of a flexible veneer.
Is refacing better than painting my cabinets?
It depends on what bothers you. Painting keeps your doors and changes their colour; refacing replaces the doors, so it changes the style as well and gets around materials that don't take paint well. Our cabinet painting page compares both options with full replacement.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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What affects the cost of cabinet refacing
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and complexity of the piece or structure
- Wood species or material
- Custom design compared with standard sizes
- Hardware, railings and finishing
- Removal of what's there now
- Permits and drawings, where needed
How to compare cabinet installers before you hire
- Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
- Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
- For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
- Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
- Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.
Questions to ask cabinet installers before you hire
- Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
- What materials will you use, and why?
- Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
- Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
- How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
Cabinet refacing permits and local rules
Some cabinet refacing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingServices related to cabinet refacing
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