Concrete Walkways near you

The finish is chosen before the pour, and it matters more on a walk than almost anywhere else, because this is the surface people cross in rain, slush and freezing drizzle.

The old walk and any soft soil beneath it are removed, then crushed stone is spread and compacted into a firm, draining base; a slab only a few feet wide still heaves if water collects under it. The forms set the edges, the heights where the walk meets steps and the driveway, and a slight cross-slope so rain runs off the side instead of sitting on the surface or flowing toward the house.

A written scope should name the base, the slab thickness, any reinforcement, the joint layout, a mix suited to freeze-thaw and salt, and how the concrete will be cured. Curing means keeping fresh concrete moist and protected through its first days, and it builds a denser surface that resists scaling; rushed or skipped curing is one reason young walks start to flake.

A narrow slab shrinks along its length, so without joints it cracks across its width wherever it likes. Tooled or saw-cut control joints running across the walk at regular spacing give those cracks a straight, planned place to form, and isolation joints of flexible material separate the walk from anything that moves differently.

Scaling, the flaking of the top layer, is the most common complaint about concrete walks. Water soaks into the surface, freezes and expands, and de-icing salt makes each cycle harsher; young concrete, a wet mix or a surface overworked during finishing flakes soonest. A penetrating sealer slows water and salt without changing the grip of a broom or exposed-aggregate finish, while coatings on stamped walks need an anti-slip additive to stay safe when wet.

A walk usually fails a panel or two at a time. Frost heave near downspouts and low spots, tree roots, and backfill settling beside the house tilt individual panels, leaving lips that catch toes and slopes that send water back toward the foundation. Small lips and cracks can often be ground, sealed or lifted, as the concrete repair page explains, but a panel that has broken up, rocks underfoot or heaves every winter is best cut out at the nearest joints and repoured.

A new section only lasts if the cause goes too: extend the downspout, correct the drainage, get an arborist's advice on roots, and rebuild the base under the new panel. Fresh concrete won't match weathered panels exactly, so some owners replace a whole run, such as the stretch from the driveway to the steps, for a consistent look.

Front walks often end in concrete steps and a landing at the door. Precast steps arrive in one piece and are set on a prepared base, while poured steps are formed on site to fit the entrance; either way, every riser in the flight should be the same height and the landing large enough to stand on while the door opens. Entrance steps, handrails and guards fall under the building code in force in your province, which is based on the National Building Code of Canada, so ask the contractor which requirements apply and whether a permit is needed.

At the street end, the public sidewalk and the boulevard usually belong to the municipality. Ask before changing where your walk meets them, since work on public property generally needs the city's permission, and keep the joint between your walk and the sidewalk level.

Concrete suits accessible routes because it can be formed as one smooth, continuous surface. Where the grade allows, a walk that rises gently toward the door can replace steps altogether, which helps anyone using a wheelchair, walker or cane and anyone rolling a stroller, suitcase or bins.