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Heating and cooling in Australia is a cooling problem first. For most households the main appliance is a reverse cycle air conditioner, a single unit that cools in summer and heats in winter by running the refrigeration cycle in reverse. A wall-mounted split system serving one or two rooms is the common starting point; larger homes add a multi-head system or ducted air conditioning through the roof space.
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What sits alongside that varies a great deal by region. Evaporative cooling works well in the dry inland and in Perth and Adelaide but poorly in humid coastal Queensland. Ducted gas heating is still widespread in Melbourne, Canberra and parts of Tasmania and much rarer further north, and several states are actively encouraging households to move off it. Anyone comparing options is really comparing a machine against a climate, which is why a quote that starts with your building rather than a catalogue is worth more.
The work is also regulated more tightly than it looks. Installing, servicing or decommissioning air conditioning involves handling refrigerant, which requires a licence issued by the Australian Refrigeration Council, and the electrical connection and any gas work each require their own licensed trade. A homeowner buying a split system is really buying the installation, and the licences behind it are the part worth checking.
Split systems, ducted air conditioning, evaporative cooling and gas ducted heating
Australian homes run several quite different systems, and the right one depends on your climate zone, your house and how many rooms you actually want conditioned. The Australian Government's Energy Rating programme notes that reverse cycle air conditioners are generally the most energy-efficient combined heating and cooling system available to households.
- Single-head split system: one indoor unit and one outdoor unit serving a room or open-plan area, the cheapest way to condition the space a household actually uses.
- Multi-head split system: several indoor units on one outdoor unit, useful for bedrooms where running separate outdoor units would be impractical.
- Ducted reverse cycle: a single indoor unit in the roof space feeding outlets in each room, usually zoned so unused rooms can be shut off.
- Evaporative cooling: draws outside air through wetted pads, effective in dry heat inland and in parts of Western Australia and South Australia, and ineffective in humid conditions.
- Ducted gas heating: a gas furnace feeding the same style of ductwork, common in Victoria, the ACT and Tasmania and uncommon in the warmer states.
- Gas space heaters and hydronic heating: room-by-room or water-based heating found mainly in the cooler southern climates.
Licences an air conditioning installer must hold: ARCtick, electrical and gas
The Australian Refrigeration Council administers refrigerant handling licences on behalf of the Australian Government. A refrigerant handling licence must be held by any person who carries out work in relation to refrigeration and air conditioning equipment, and that covers installing, commissioning, servicing, maintaining and decommissioning as well as decanting refrigerant. The ARC is explicit that handling fluorocarbon refrigerant without the appropriate licence is a strict liability offence, which means it is an offence regardless of what the person intended.
The licence is national and it is checkable. The ARC publishes a search so you can confirm that a technician or a business holds a current licence or refrigerant trading authorisation before you let them start, and it audits licence holders as part of running the scheme. Ask for the ARCtick number and look it up yourself rather than relying on a logo on a van.
Refrigerant is not the whole job. The electrical connection is electrical work and must be done by a licensed electrical worker, and if the installation touches a gas appliance or gas line, that is separate licensed gasfitting work. A single contractor may hold or subcontract all three, but somebody licensed has to be responsible for each part.
Reading the Zoned Energy Rating Label before you choose an air conditioner
Australian and New Zealand air conditioners carry the Zoned Energy Rating Label, which improves on a single national star rating by reporting seasonal efficiency separately for three climate zones: hot, average and cold. A unit that performs beautifully in a mild coastal climate may lose efficiency where summers are extreme or where winter nights are genuinely cold, and the zoned label is designed to expose exactly that.
The label gives star ratings on a scale of one to ten, with more stars meaning better efficiency compared with similar models. It shows cooling figures and heating figures separately, alongside estimated annual energy use in kilowatt hours for each zone, and it includes a noise indicator in decibels for the indoor and outdoor units, which matters more than most buyers expect on a small suburban block. In stores the label is mandatory on single-phase, non-ducted, unitary and single-split air conditioners up to 30 kW; on ducted systems it is voluntary, so not every product will display one.
Efficiency only pays off if the unit is the right size. The Energy Rating programme advises that choosing a suitably sized unit is the first and most important step, and that the right capacity depends on the space, the wall material, the insulation, the windows and the climate, so professional advice is worth getting before you settle on a capacity in kilowatts.
What a split system or ducted installation actually involves
- A site assessment that measures the rooms and looks at orientation, glazing, ceiling insulation and where people actually spend time, rather than matching the size of whatever is already on the wall.
- Agreeing where the indoor unit goes so airflow is not blocked by a door, a pelmet or furniture, and where the outdoor unit goes so it has clearance, is not baking against a hot western wall and will not run under a neighbour's bedroom window.
- Running refrigerant pipework, drain lines and interconnecting cable between the two, which usually means drilling through an external wall and may mean a run through the roof space.
- Electrical work by a licensed electrical worker, including a dedicated circuit and isolator where the installation requires it.
- For ducted systems, setting the indoor unit and ductwork in the roof space, cutting and fitting outlets and return air, and setting up zoning.
- Evacuating and charging the refrigerant circuit, commissioning the system, and handing over the paperwork including the warranty terms and the certificate for the electrical work.
Signs your air conditioner needs a service or a repair
- The room takes far longer to reach the set temperature than it used to, or never quite gets there on a hot afternoon.
- Airflow from the indoor unit is weak, or the air smells musty when the system starts.
- Water drips from the indoor unit into the room instead of running away through the drain line.
- The outdoor unit is noticeably louder, rattles, or trips the circuit when it starts.
- Ice forms on the pipework or the indoor coil, which often points to low refrigerant charge or a blocked filter.
- The system short-cycles, switching on and off every few minutes without settling.
- Running costs jump without any change in how you use the system or in the weather.
Filter cleaning, thermostat settings and what you can do between services
Most of the easy efficiency in a split system sits in the filters. The Australian Government advises cleaning air conditioner filters with a brush, hose or vacuum every two weeks during periods of use, and wiping down vents, filters and louvres without harsh cleaning fluids. Dust around the indoor and outdoor units also costs airflow, and airflow is what the machine trades on.
Set-point discipline saves more than most upgrades. The advice for Australian households is to set heating thermostats between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius in winter and cooling thermostats between 25 and 27 degrees in summer, because each additional degree of heating or cooling increases energy use by somewhere between 5 and 10 per cent. Cooling only the rooms in use, and closing doors to the rest, does the same job from the other direction.
Beyond that, book a service by a licensed technician. Checking refrigerant charge, pressures and the sealed circuit is licensed work, not homeowner work, and the same visit is when worn contactors, blocked drains and failing capacitors get caught before they become a summer breakdown.
An Australian service calendar: cooling before December, gas heating before June
Seasons here run the opposite way to the northern hemisphere, and so does the service calendar. The peak cooling load arrives with summer in December, January and February, which means the sensible time to book an air conditioning service is late spring, before the first serious heatwave and before every technician in your postcode is booked out. The general guidance is to arrange a service inspection ahead of peak use rather than during it.
Heating runs on the opposite schedule. Winter is June, July and August, so gas heating and reverse cycle heating are worth checking in autumn. For gas appliances this matters for safety, not only comfort: Energy Safe Victoria recommends having gas heaters serviced every two years by a qualified gasfitter endorsed to service Type A appliances, and that service includes testing for carbon monoxide spillage with a CO analyser. Carbon monoxide has no smell, and an open-flued heater in a home with strong extraction fans can be drawn into negative pressure, so this is a check worth putting in the calendar.
Tropical and subtropical households have a third season to plan around. Where the wet season brings humidity rather than cold, dehumidification and drainage matter more than heating, and a blocked condensate drain shows up as water damage rather than as a cold room.
State discount and upgrade schemes for efficient heating and cooling
Support for efficient heating and cooling in Australia is mostly run by the states rather than nationally, so what is available depends on your postcode. Victoria runs the Victorian Energy Upgrades programme, under which households can receive a discount on an approved high-efficiency reverse cycle air conditioner that provides both heating and cooling, with larger discounts where a ducted gas heater is being replaced. The discount is applied to the quote by an accredited provider rather than claimed back afterwards, which changes how you should compare quotes.
Other states and territories run their own schemes, and the Australian Government maintains a consolidated list of rebates and assistance that is the sensible place to start. Programmes open, close and change eligibility rules regularly, so confirm the current terms before committing, check whether the installer must be accredited under the scheme, and keep the paperwork.
HVAC Contractors: frequently asked questions
Is a reverse cycle air conditioner the same thing as a heat pump?
In heating mode, yes. A reverse cycle air conditioner moves heat from outside to inside rather than generating it, which is what a heat pump does. Australian usage generally reserves the phrase heat pump for hot water systems and says reverse cycle for space heating and cooling, but the underlying technology is the same.
Can I install a split system myself if I buy it online?
No. Connecting and charging the refrigerant circuit requires a refrigerant handling licence from the Australian Refrigeration Council, and handling fluorocarbon refrigerant without one is a strict liability offence. The electrical connection is separately licensed work. You can buy the equipment, but the installation has to be done by licensed trades.
How do I check that an air conditioning technician is licensed?
Ask for the ARCtick refrigerant handling licence number and check it on the Australian Refrigeration Council's search, which also lets you confirm a business holds a refrigerant trading authorisation. Then ask who is doing the electrical connection and confirm that person's electrical licence with your state regulator.
Is evaporative cooling a good choice where I live?
It depends almost entirely on humidity. Evaporative coolers cool by evaporating water into the air stream, so they work well in dry inland heat and much less well in humid coastal conditions where the air is already carrying moisture. They also need windows or vents open to exhaust air, which is a different operating habit from a sealed, refrigerated system.
What size air conditioner do I need for my living room?
There is no reliable rule of thumb, because capacity depends on floor area, ceiling height, insulation, glazing area and orientation, wall construction and your climate zone. The Australian Government's guidance is to get professional advice on sizing, since an undersized unit runs flat out and an oversized one cycles badly and dehumidifies poorly.
How does LokalMatch work for heating and cooling jobs?
You describe the job once, including your postcode, the rooms involved and whether it is an installation, a service or a breakdown. Heating and cooling businesses that cover your area get in touch with you directly, and they pay LokalMatch for those requests. LokalMatch does not carry out the work, does not set or quote prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so checking licences, references and the detail of each quote stays with you.
Sources
- Australian Refrigeration Council: Refrigerant Handling Licence
- Australian Refrigeration Council: Frequently asked questions
- Energy Rating: Understand the Zoned Energy Rating Label
- Energy Rating: Heating and cooling products
- energy.gov.au: Heating and cooling for households
- Energy Safe Victoria: Heating your home with gas
- Victorian Energy Upgrades: Heating and cooling discounts
- energy.gov.au: Rebates and assistance
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
What HVAC contractors can help with
Common jobs homeowners hire HVAC contractors for:
- Ducted Heating InstallationInstall a new furnace or replace an old one.
- Ducted Heating RepairFix a furnace that won't start, blows cold air or makes noise.
- Ducted Heating ServiceYearly furnace cleaning, inspection and tune-up.
- Aircon InstallationInstall central air or replace an old air conditioner.
- Aircon RepairFix an air conditioner that isn't cooling or won't turn on.
- Aircon ServicingSeasonal air conditioner cleaning, checks and tune-ups.
- Heat Pump InstallationInstall ducted, ductless or cold-climate heat pumps.
- Heat Pump RepairRepair and service heat pumps that aren't heating or cooling.
- Boiler InstallationInstall or replace a hot water or steam boiler.
- Boiler RepairRepair and service boilers and hot water heating systems.
- Radiant HeatingInstall and repair hydronic and radiant heating systems.
- In-Floor HeatingHeat a home through water or electric systems under the floor.
- Thermostat InstallationInstall, replace or repair a thermostat.
- Smart ThermostatsInstall and set up a Wi-Fi or smart thermostat.
- DuctworkInstall, modify and repair heating and cooling ducts.
- Duct CleaningClean air ducts, vents and returns in a heating system.
- HRV & ERV SystemsInstall and service heat or energy recovery ventilators.
- VentilationInstall and improve ventilation, exhaust and bathroom fans.
- HumidifiersInstall and service whole-home humidifiers.
- DehumidifiersInstall whole-home and basement dehumidifiers.
- Air PurificationAdd air filters, purifiers or UV systems to your HVAC.
- Indoor Air Quality TestingTest indoor air for humidity, particles and other pollutants.
- Fireplace InstallationInstall gas, wood or electric fireplaces, inserts and stoves.
- Fireplace RepairRepair wood and electric fireplaces, inserts and stoves.
- Gas Fireplace ServiceClean, inspect and repair gas fireplaces.
- Gas Line InstallationRun or extend gas lines for appliances, BBQs and heaters.
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What affects the cost of HVAC
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Type of system and fuel source
- Size and efficiency of the equipment
- Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
- Electrical or gas line changes
- Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
- Removal and disposal of the old equipment
- Emergency or after-hours service
How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire
- Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
- For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
- Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
- Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
- Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.
Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire
- Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
- How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
- Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
- Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
- Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
- How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?
When to call a pro for HVAC
- If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
- If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
- No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
- Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use
HVAC permits and local rules
Some HVAC work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
Guides about HVAC
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Central heating installation in Australia usually means ducted gas heating. A single gas heater unit sits in the roof space, under the floor or outside against a wall, and warmed air travels through insulated ductwork…
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Ducted Heating Repair guide
Ducted gas heating repair covers the faults that stop a central gas heater working properly: no heat at all, air that never gets warm, a unit that lights and then shuts down, weak airflow at the outlets, or noise and…
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Ducted Heating Service guide
A ducted heating service is not a tune-up. On a gas system it is a safety test with a tune-up attached, and the thing being tested is whether the heater is putting carbon monoxide into the house.
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