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Ductwork

Ductwork near you

Ductwork is one of the few parts of an Australian home that almost everyone has and almost nobody has looked at. Ducted gas heating through Melbourne, the ACT and Tasmania, and ducted reverse cycle almost everywhere else, both work by pushing conditioned air along insulated ducts laid through a roof space to outlets cut into the ceiling of each room. The equipment gets the attention and the warranty sticker; the ducts decide how much of what you paid for actually arrives.

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That makes duct quality a code matter rather than a matter of taste. Part 13.7 of the ABCB Housing Provisions sets minimum material R-values for heating and cooling ductwork and its fittings, and requires ductwork to be sealed against air loss by closing all openings, joints and seams with adhesives, mastics, sealants or gaskets. Flexible duct is sealed with a draw band together with a sealant or adhesive tape. Insulation has to abut adjoining duct insulation to form a continuous barrier, which is precisely what a rushed installation fails to do.

The work itself is a trade with its own licensing in some states. Queensland issues an air handling duct installation licence class whose scope is installing ductwork and enclosures for air conditioning, air handling and mechanical ventilation systems, alongside a broader mechanical services class covering constructing, installing, replacing, repairing, altering, maintaining, testing or commissioning air-conditioning and air handling systems. The gas and electrical connections at the equipment end are licensed separately again.

The parts of a ducted system, and which ones a duct quote should name

A duct quote that says only replace ductwork is not a quote you can compare. The distribution system is an assembly of distinct components, and installers make very different choices about each one, so ask which of these the price covers.

  • The plenum: the box on the outlet side of the heater or indoor unit where every duct run begins, and the place where poor sealing loses air before it has travelled a metre.
  • Rigid ducting: sheet metal or rigid board trunk runs, which hold their shape and their cross-section far better than flexible duct in a long, awkward roof space.
  • Flexible duct: the insulated concertina hose used for most branch runs in Australian homes, quick to install and completely unforgiving of being left slack, kinked or crushed.
  • Ceiling outlets and diffusers: the visible grilles, whose size and throw pattern decide whether the air reaches the far side of a room or dumps straight down onto the floor.
  • The return air path: the large grille that lets air back to the unit, and the single most commonly undersized element in an older Australian installation.
  • Zone motors and dampers: motorised flaps that open and close branches so unused rooms can be shut off, and a frequent source of a room that has mysteriously gone cold.
  • Supports and straps: the strapping that holds runs up off the ceiling insulation, without which a duct sags into a long, airflow-strangling belly between joists.

Duct insulation R-values and sealing: what the NCC actually requires

The insulation wrapped around a duct is not a comfort extra. A roof space in an Australian summer runs far hotter than the air being pushed through the duct, so a poorly insulated run in January is a heat exchanger working against you — the air arrives at the bedroom warmer than it left the unit, and the system runs longer to make up the difference. In the June to August heating season the same physics runs in reverse and warm air gives its heat up to a cold roof space.

Part 13.7 of the ABCB Housing Provisions puts numbers on it. For ductwork serving heating only or cooling only, the minimum material R-value is 1.0 in climate zones 1 to 7 and 1.5 in climate zone 8, with fittings at 0.4. Where a single system provides both heating and refrigerated cooling, the minimum rises to 1.5 in climate zones 1, 3, 4, 6 and 7, and stays at 1.0 in climate zones 2 and 5. The Australian Building Codes Board's climate zone map is what tells you which of those figures applies to your postcode.

Sealing is the other half and gets less attention than it deserves. The Housing Provisions require ductwork to be sealed against air loss by closing all openings, joints and seams, to the Class C seal of the relevant Australian Standards, with flexible ductwork sealed using a draw band in conjunction with a sealant or adhesive tape. Duct insulation must abut adjoining insulation to form a continuous barrier, and where ductwork is located outside the building it must be protected by an outer sleeve of protective sheeting, with adhesive tape not less than 48 millimetres wide creating an airtight and waterproof seal.

State licensing for ductwork, and for the gas and electrical connections

Licensing in Australia is done state by state, so the honest answer to who is allowed to install your ducts depends on your postcode. Queensland is the clearest case and a useful benchmark to hold other quotes against: the QBCC issues an air handling duct installation licence whose stated scope is installing ductwork and enclosures for air conditioning, air handling and mechanical ventilation systems, and a mechanical services air-conditioning and refrigeration occupational licence covering constructing, installing, replacing, repairing, altering, maintaining, testing or commissioning air-conditioning, air handling systems and refrigeration for a building.

The connections at either end are licensed regardless of where you live. If the ducts are fed by a gas heater, the gas side is gasfitting: Queensland requires a licence or authorisation before you do any gas work at all, regardless of whether the work is residential, commercial or industrial, with gas work defined to include installing, removing, altering, repairing, servicing, testing and certifying the gas system of a gas device. In Victoria the plumbing regulator administers licensing and registration for plumbers and gasfitters, and every registered and licensed practitioner carries a photo identification card listing the type of work they may do, with the registered classes printed on the back.

The electrical supply to the indoor unit and its controls is separate again. New South Wales requires an electrical licence before undertaking any electrical wiring work, regardless of the cost or type of work, and electricians must submit certificates proving compliance. In Victoria a certificate of electrical safety is a legal document recording the work performed, and for non-prescribed work — the category that expressly includes air conditioning — the contractor must give you a copy within thirty days. Ask at quoting time which trades are attending and what each one is licensed for.

What is usually wrong with the ductwork in an older Australian roof space

  • Runs that have come adrift at the plenum or at a branch take-off and are now conditioning the roof space rather than a bedroom, which shows up as one room that never quite works.
  • Flexible duct left slack at installation and now sagging between ceiling joists, so the air has to climb through a series of bellies that no amount of fan capacity fixes cheaply.
  • Duct crushed flat where someone crawled over it, ran a cable, stored boxes or installed a downlight or a solar inverter years after the heating went in.
  • Insulation that has torn, slumped or parted at a joint, leaving bare inner core exposed to a roof space that easily exceeds anything the duct was designed to sit in.
  • A return air grille and return duct sized for a smaller original system, throttling everything downstream and making the whole house feel weak at every outlet.
  • Zone dampers whose motors have failed in a partly closed position, which is often mistaken for a fault in the expensive equipment at the other end.
  • Rodent and possum damage, which in an Australian roof space is common enough that it deserves a torch and a look rather than an assumption.
  • Old runs left buried under blown-in ceiling insulation, where nobody can inspect them and a fault cannot be seen at all.

How a ductwork replacement or upgrade should be carried out

A credible job starts with somebody physically in the roof space with a camera, not with a price over the phone. The survey should establish where the plenum sits, how each run is routed, what condition the insulation is in, where runs are crushed or disconnected, whether the return air path is adequate for the equipment, and — a genuine constraint in Australian homes — whether the roof space can be safely traversed at all. Ask for the photographs. A duct contractor who will not show you what they found is asking you to buy something you are structurally unable to inspect.

Design comes next, and this is where money is either well or badly spent. Run lengths are shortened where the building allows, trunk runs are sized for the air the equipment is rated to move, branch runs are balanced so the far bedroom is not starved by the near one, outlet positions are chosen for the shape of each room, and the zoning is set out to match how the household actually lives rather than how the floor plan is drawn. Replacing like for like simply reproduces whatever compromise the original installer made.

On installation day, the old duct comes out rather than being left in place, new runs are pulled taut and strapped up clear of the ceiling insulation, joints are sealed and the insulation is lapped to form the continuous barrier the code requires, and outlets are cut and fitted. Commissioning is the part to insist on: the system is run, airflow is checked at each outlet, zones are proved to open and close, and anything still weak is balanced before the crew leaves. Get the result in writing alongside the photographs.

Timing duct work around an Australian summer

Book duct work for spring or autumn, and treat December as a deadline rather than a starting point. Australian cooling demand peaks from December through February, and by the first serious heatwave the contractors covering your postcode are booked out. A house discovering in January that half its outlets are weak is in the worst possible position to compare quotes carefully.

There is a physical reason on top of the scheduling one. A roof space in a Sydney, Perth or Brisbane summer becomes dangerously hot within a couple of hours of sunrise, which compresses the safe working window to the early morning and makes careful work in the tight sections near the eaves genuinely difficult. The same roof space in September or April is merely uncomfortable, and the quality of what gets done in it is noticeably better.

If your system is mainly for heating, use the same logic shifted: the heating season is June to August, so autumn is the window. Sustainability Victoria's practical advice for an older ducted heating system is to have the ductwork checked when the heater is serviced, which pairs the two visits sensibly and means the ducts get looked at by someone already up there.

The documents that make a duct job provable later

Ductwork disputes are hard to settle because the evidence is above a ceiling. That is an argument for collecting the evidence while the roof space is open. Ask for before and after photographs of the plenum, the trunk runs and the branch take-offs, a note of the R-value of the duct actually installed, and the commissioning record showing airflow was checked at the outlets. Those three things convert a vague complaint about a cold back bedroom into something a contractor can be held to.

Keep the certificates that belong to the connected trades as well: the certificate of electrical safety or the state equivalent for any electrical work, and the gas compliance certificate where a gas heater was connected or reconnected. Never accept a discount in exchange for leaving certification off the job, because the certificate is the part that survives the handshake.

Finally, write down what the system is supposed to achieve before work starts — which rooms, in which zones, at what kind of temperature — and hold a meaningful part of the payment until the system has been demonstrated. A duct installation is one of the few home jobs where the difference between competent and careless is invisible on the day and obvious for the next fifteen years.

Underneath the paperwork sit rights you cannot sign away. The ACCC states that consumer guarantees are automatic and cannot be taken away, and that service providers must carry out all services using an acceptable level of care and skill. Ductwork gives that unusually sharp edges, because the ACCC's test for a major problem with a service includes one that cannot achieve a specific result the consumer told the seller about and cannot easily be fixed within a reasonable time — which is precisely the situation where a system installed to condition named rooms does not condition them. Where a problem is major it is you, not the business, who chooses the remedy: cancelling the contract for a refund, which may not be a full one because a reasonable amount is payable for work properly done, or keeping the contract at a lower price that takes the problem into account. Where the problem is minor, the business must fix it for free.

Ductwork: frequently asked questions

Is ducted heating and cooling actually common in Australia?

Yes, genuinely so. Ducted gas heating is common through Melbourne, the ACT, cooler regional Victoria and Tasmania, and ducted reverse cycle is installed right across the country, usually with the ducts run through the roof space rather than under the floor. That is quite different from countries where ducted systems are rare, and it means duct condition is a mainstream Australian home maintenance issue rather than a niche one.

What R-value should my ducting be?

It depends on your climate zone and on whether the system does one job or two. Part 13.7 of the ABCB Housing Provisions sets a minimum material R-value of 1.0 for heating-only or cooling-only ductwork in climate zones 1 to 7 and 1.5 in zone 8, with fittings at 0.4. Where one system provides both heating and refrigerated cooling, the minimum is 1.5 in climate zones 1, 3, 4, 6 and 7 and 1.0 in zones 2 and 5. Check your zone on the Australian Building Codes Board's climate map and ask the installer to state the R-value on the quote.

Can my old ductwork be reused with a new heater or air conditioner?

Sometimes, but it should be inspected and photographed rather than assumed. Runs that have come apart at a joint, been crushed, lost their insulation or sagged between joists will waste a large share of a brand new system's output, and a return air path sized for the old equipment can throttle the new one. Ask the installer to go into the roof space, show you what is there and say plainly which sections they intend to keep and why.

One bedroom never gets warm or cool while the rest of the house is fine. Why?

In a ducted system the usual causes are all in the roof space: a branch run disconnected at the take-off, a duct crushed or sagging so badly that almost nothing gets through, a zone damper stuck part-closed, or a run so long and slack that the air gives up before it arrives. Balancing at commissioning fixes some of it. A physical fault needs someone up there with a torch, which is why the survey photographs matter.

Do I need a licensed person just to install ducts?

It varies by state, which is why you should ask rather than assume. Queensland issues a specific air handling duct installation licence covering ductwork and enclosures for air conditioning, air handling and mechanical ventilation systems, plus a broader mechanical services class. Wherever you are, the connections at the equipment are licensed: gas work requires a gasfitting licence, and electrical wiring work requires an electrical licence, with New South Wales requiring one regardless of the cost or type of work.

How does LokalMatch work for a ductwork job?

You describe the work once — your postcode, the type of system, and whether you want ducts replaced, extended, repaired or simply inspected — and duct and heating businesses covering your area contact you themselves. Those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install or inspect ductwork, does not set or quote prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so checking state licences and comparing what each quote actually covers stays with you.

Sources

  1. ABCB Housing Provisions Part 13.7: Services (ductwork insulation and sealing)
  2. ABCB: Climate zone map of Australia
  3. QBCC: Air handling duct installation licence
  4. QBCC: Mechanical services air-conditioning and refrigeration occupational licence
  5. Business Queensland: Gas work licences and authorisations
  6. Energy Safe Victoria: Gasfitters, licensing and the photo identification card
  7. NSW Government: Electricians and electrical licences
  8. Energy Safe Victoria: Certificates of electrical safety for consumers
  9. Sustainability Victoria: Heat your home efficiently
  10. ACCC: Consumer rights and guarantees
  11. ACCC: Repair, replace, refund, cancel — major and minor problems with a service

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of ductwork

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of system and fuel source
  • Size and efficiency of the equipment
  • Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
  • Electrical or gas line changes
  • Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
  • Removal and disposal of the old equipment
  • Emergency or after-hours service

How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
  • For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
  • Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
  • Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
  • Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.

Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
  • How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
  • Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
  • Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
  • Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
  • How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?

When to call a pro for ductwork

  • If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
  • No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
  • Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use

Ductwork permits and local rules

Some ductwork work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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