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Aircon Installation

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Most air conditioning installed in Australian homes is reverse cycle, which means the machine that cools the house through January is the same one that heats it in July. That shapes the whole project. The unit is sized against the summer cooling load for your climate zone, but it also has to hold a bedroom at a comfortable temperature on a cold winter morning, and the trade-off between those two jobs is the part a good installer walks you through before quoting.

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An installation is really three trades in one visit. The refrigerant circuit may only be worked on by a technician who holds a refrigerant handling licence issued by the Australian Refrigeration Council, the power supply is electrical work reserved for a licensed electrical worker, and a ducted system adds sheet metal and roof space work on top. The equipment is the easy part to compare between quotes; the licences behind it, the sizing calculation and the quality of the pipe and duct runs are what separate an installation that hums along for a decade from one that struggles in every heatwave.

What lands on the quote depends on the building more than on the box. The distance between the indoor and outdoor units, whether the roof space can be crawled, the wall construction you have to drill through, how much western glass the room carries and whether the switchboard can take another circuit all move the price long before the brand does.

Climate zone, orientation and the capacity your house actually needs

Australia is not one climate. The Australian Building Codes Board divides the country into eight climate zones built from Bureau of Meteorology data, running from zone 1, described as high humidity summer and warm winter, through the temperate zones of the south east to zone 8, the alpine areas. A house in zone 1 is fighting humidity for most of the year, while a house in zone 7 needs a machine that still produces useful heat when the outdoor air is close to freezing. The same model can be an excellent buy in one zone and a poor one two states away.

Within a zone the load comes from the building itself: floor area and ceiling height, how much glass faces west, whether the ceiling is insulated, the wall construction, how exposed the outdoor unit will be and how many people use the space. Ask the installer to show their working rather than matching the capacity of whatever is already on the wall. An undersized unit runs flat out all afternoon and never quite catches up, while an oversized one hits the set temperature fast, shuts down and leaves the air clammy because it never ran long enough to pull moisture out of it.

Licences behind an aircon installation, and the certificate you should be handed

Refrigerant work in Australia sits under the Ozone Protection and Synthetic Greenhouse Gas Management Act 1989 and its regulations, which the Australian Refrigeration Council has administered for the refrigeration and air conditioning industry since 2005. A refrigerant handling licence must be held by any person who carries out work on refrigeration and air conditioning equipment, and carrying out work expressly covers installing and commissioning, not only servicing and decommissioning. The ARC states plainly that handling fluorocarbon refrigerant without the appropriate licence is an offence of strict liability, so this is not a paperwork technicality that a discount installer can skip.

There is more than one class of licence, and the difference matters to you. A full stationary licence covers refrigeration and air conditioning work generally, while the restricted split system class is limited to installing and decommissioning specified equipment under eighteen kilowatts, such as a single-head split system. A multi-head or ducted job needs the full class. Businesses that buy, store or dispose of refrigerant separately need a refrigerant trading authorisation, although one is not required where the refrigerant simply stays inside sealed equipment such as a factory-charged split system. The ARC publishes a search so you can check a technician's licence and a business's authorisation yourself.

The electrical connection is licensed by your state, not by the ARC. In New South Wales you must have an electrical licence before undertaking any electrical wiring work, regardless of the cost or type of work, and the electrician lodges a certificate of compliance for electrical work. In Victoria, Energy Safe Victoria licenses and registers every electrical tradesperson, and for ordinary non-prescribed work the contractor must give you a copy of the certificate of electrical safety within thirty days. File whichever certificate applies with the manuals; it is the record that the wiring was done by someone entitled to do it.

Pipework, ductwork and the insulation you never see again

Almost everything that decides how well an installation performs is hidden inside a wall or a roof space by the end of the day, which is exactly why it is worth agreeing on before anyone drills. New homes, additions and some renovations must also satisfy Part H6 of the National Construction Code, which sets energy efficiency requirements covering both the building fabric and the energy used by domestic services such as heating, cooling and water heating, with the requirements varying by climate zone.

  • Refrigerant pipe runs kept as short and straight as the building allows, pressure tested, and lagged along their full length so the capacity you paid for does not leak into a wall cavity.
  • Condensate drainage with a continuous fall to a legal discharge point, since a drain that ponds is the most common reason a wall below an indoor unit starts staining a year later.
  • Ducting that is insulated, sealed and properly supported, with flexible duct pulled taut — a crushed or sagging run quietly cancels out the efficiency of the equipment above it.
  • Return air and outlets sized so the system can move the air it is rated for instead of throttling itself through one undersized grille.
  • A dedicated circuit and isolator where the equipment requires it, checked against what the existing switchboard can actually carry.
  • Outdoor unit clearances that suit the manufacturer's data rather than the tidiest corner of the yard, with airflow, service access and the neighbours' bedroom windows all taken into account.

From site visit to commissioning: the order a careful installer works in

The job starts before installation day with a site visit. A technician measures the rooms, looks at glazing and shading, checks the ceiling insulation, opens the switchboard, works out where the pipe run can go and confirms that the roof space is safe to work in. That visit is where capacity, unit positions and any extra electrical work get settled, and it is the part a quote given over the phone from a photograph skips.

On the day, the indoor unit is mounted and a core hole drilled through the external wall, the outdoor unit is set on a slab or brackets, and the refrigerant pipes, condensate drain and interconnecting cable are run between them. A ducted system takes considerably longer because the indoor unit, plenum and ducting have to be positioned in the roof space and each outlet cut and fitted. The electrical connection is made by the licensed electrical worker, who then issues the state certificate.

Commissioning is the step worth asking about. The circuit is evacuated before it is charged, pressures and temperatures are checked with the system running, and the ARC's code of practice for these systems is explicit that equipment must not be charged with a refrigerant of higher global warming potential than it was designed for. The handover should include a demonstration of the controller, the filter cleaning routine, the manufacturer's warranty terms and the commissioning and electrical paperwork.

Book before December: the Australian installation calendar

Cooling demand in Australia peaks in December, January and February, and so does the queue. By the first serious heatwave the installers who cover your postcode are booked for weeks and the popular capacities are out of stock, which is how households end up taking whatever can be fitted on Thursday rather than what suits the house. Spring is the quiet window, and a system ordered in September or October is usually running before the weather needs it.

There is a practical reason beyond scheduling. A roof space in a Sydney or Perth summer is brutally hot by mid-morning, which shortens the safe working window for a ducted installation and makes it harder to do a careful job in the confined sections. Autumn suits people whose main interest is heating, since reverse cycle carries the winter months of June, July and August and a system installed in March has time to be tested before the first cold snap.

State upgrade schemes, and why the installer usually has to be in the scheme

Support for efficient heating and cooling is mostly run by states and territories, so your postcode decides what exists. New South Wales, for example, lists household energy saving upgrades under its Energy Security Safeguard that include upgrading air conditioning and hot water systems, and other jurisdictions run their own programs with their own product lists.

The mechanics are worth understanding before you compare quotes. These schemes are generally delivered through accredited providers who apply the discount to the job rather than reimbursing you afterwards, which means an unaccredited installer simply cannot supply it and a cheaper headline quote may be the dearer one. Check the current terms on the program's own site, confirm the business is accredited for it, and keep the paperwork you are given.

Warranty, consumer guarantees and the documents to keep

Two separate protections apply. The manufacturer's warranty on the equipment is a promise made by the brand, and it commonly depends on the unit having been installed and commissioned by an appropriately licensed technician, which is one more reason the licence check pays for itself. Registration and the commissioning record are usually what the manufacturer asks for when a compressor fails in year four.

Underneath that sit the consumer guarantees in the Australian Consumer Law, which the ACCC describes as automatic and impossible to take away. Services must be provided with due care and skill, be fit for the purpose you asked about and be delivered within a reasonable time, and a warranty is an extra promise on top of those guarantees rather than a replacement for them. Keep the quote, the invoice, the ARCtick licence number, the electrical certificate, the commissioning sheet and the model and serial numbers together, because every later conversation about a fault starts with them.

Aircon Installation: frequently asked questions

Can I buy a split system online and just pay someone to hang it on the wall?

You can buy the equipment, but the installation is licensed work from start to finish. Connecting, evacuating and charging the refrigerant circuit requires a refrigerant handling licence, and doing that work without one is a strict liability offence under the Commonwealth regulations. The power connection is separately licensed electrical work. Supplying your own unit also tends to complicate the manufacturer's warranty, so check the terms before you buy.

How do I check an air conditioning installer's licences before work starts?

Ask for the technician's ARCtick refrigerant handling licence number and the business's refrigerant trading authorisation, then confirm both on the Australian Refrigeration Council's own search rather than trusting a sticker on the van. Separately, ask who is doing the electrical connection and check that person against your state regulator, the licence register in Victoria or the electrical licence requirement in New South Wales.

Is a ducted system worth it, or should I put splits in the rooms we use?

It depends on the house and on how you live in it. Ducted conditioning suits homes with a usable roof space and people who want the whole floor plan at one temperature, and it disappears visually apart from the outlets. Splits in three or four rooms usually cost less to install and less to run, because you are only conditioning the space someone is actually in. Zoning narrows the gap, but only if the zones match the way the household moves through the day.

How long does an air conditioner installation take?

A straightforward back-to-back split system, where the outdoor unit sits directly behind the indoor unit, is normally a single day. Long pipe runs, a second storey, brick or double brick walls, switchboard work or a multi-head system stretch that out. Ducted installations usually take two days or more because of the roof space work, and older homes with limited roof access can take longer again.

How does LokalMatch work when I want air conditioning installed?

You describe the job once — your postcode, the rooms you want conditioned, the type of home and whether you are after splits or ducted — and installers who cover your area contact you directly. Those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out installations, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so checking the ARC and electrical licences and comparing what each quote actually includes remains your call.

Sources

  1. Australian Refrigeration Council: Refrigerant handling licence
  2. Australian Refrigeration Council: Licence types
  3. Australian Refrigeration Council: Legislation and regulation
  4. Australian Refrigeration Council: Refrigerant trading authorisation FAQs
  5. ABCB: Climate zone map of Australia
  6. National Construction Code 2022 Volume Two: Part H6 Energy efficiency
  7. NSW Government: Electricians and electrical licences
  8. Energy Safe Victoria: Certificates of electrical safety for consumers
  9. NSW Government: Household rebates, grants and schemes
  10. ACCC: Consumer guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of air conditioner installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of system and fuel source
  • Size and efficiency of the equipment
  • Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
  • Electrical or gas line changes
  • Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
  • Removal and disposal of the old equipment
  • Emergency or after-hours service

How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
  • For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
  • Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
  • Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
  • Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.

Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
  • How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
  • Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
  • Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
  • Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
  • How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?

When to call a pro for air conditioner installation

  • If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
  • No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
  • Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use

Air conditioner installation permits and local rules

Some air conditioner installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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