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Fireplace Installation

Fireplace Installation near you

Installing a fireplace in Australia almost always means installing an appliance, not building an open masonry fireplace. Open fireplaces belong to older housing and to the colder south, turning up in Victorian, Federation and interwar homes around Hobart, Melbourne, Adelaide and inner Sydney and through the tablelands and alpine districts. Whole suburbs built since the war have no solid fuel heating at all. Very few new Australian houses are given a true open fire, partly because it is a poor heater and partly because woodsmoke is now treated as an air quality problem: EPA Victoria states that wood heaters and open fireplaces contribute significantly to air pollution in Victoria.

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This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
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So the realistic choices are a freestanding wood heater on a steel flue kit, an inbuilt or insert appliance fitted into an existing fireplace opening, a gas log fire, or an electric unit that needs no flue at all. Each is a different trade. A solid fuel appliance is installed to the standard the National Construction Code calls up. A gas appliance is gasfitting, which is licensed in every state and certified afterwards. An electric unit on a new circuit is electrical work, licensed in its own right.

That is the first thing to settle before you collect quotes, because the appliance decides who may legally touch it, what paperwork you should end up holding, and whether your council has anything to say. It also decides where the appliance can physically sit, since the Code sets clearances and hearth dimensions that a room sometimes simply cannot give you.

Fireplace types Australians actually install, and the trade each one needs

  • Freestanding wood heater: a steel or cast iron appliance standing clear of the walls on its own hearth, with a flue kit through the ceiling and roof, and the most common wood burning installation in the country.
  • Inbuilt or insert wood appliance: a firebox slid into an existing open fireplace opening, which turns an inefficient hole in the wall into a usable heater but makes the old flue part of a designed system.
  • Gas log fire: a decorative-effect gas heater, either dropped into an existing fireplace opening or installed as a self-contained unit, and gasfitting work from the first connection onwards.
  • Flued gas space heater: a room heater with its own flue, chosen where a household wants gas heat without ductwork.
  • Electric fireplace or wall unit: no flue, no combustion and no gas licence, but a new dedicated circuit or outlet is electrical work.
  • Outdoor wood fired oven, fire pit or built-in barbecue: a different set of clearance and siting questions, and a gas model still needs a gasfitter.
  • A rebuilt open masonry fireplace, which is a bricklaying and stonemasonry job on a heritage or character house far more often than a heating decision.

Wood, gas or electric: choosing the appliance before choosing the installer

Wood suits households with a genuine supply of dry firewood, a roof the flue can pass through cleanly, and tolerance for the work a real fire involves. If you go this way, buy to the standards rather than to the showroom. NSW Health advises checking that a wood-burning heater conforms with the Australian Standards for pollution emissions, AS/NZS 4013:2014, and efficiency, AS/NZS 4012:2014, and that the heater and chimney are installed in line with council-specific building requirements. EPA Victoria names the same pair of standards along with AS 2918:2018 for installation, and says plainly to have your heater professionally installed.

Gas suits households that want heat on demand and no ash, and it is the usual answer where a fireplace is wanted for the look of it. The trade-off is combustion inside the house, which is why a gas appliance brings licensing, flueing and carbon monoxide considerations that neither wood nor electricity brings in the same form. Energy Safe Victoria's position on flueless units is worth reading before anyone offers you one: flueless heaters can be extremely dangerous, because carbon monoxide and other deadly gases spill directly into your home and mix with the air you breathe.

Electric suits apartments, rooms with no external wall, rentals and anyone who mainly wants the appearance of a fire. There is no flue, no combustion product and no gas certificate, which removes most of the regulatory complication at a stroke. The honest caveat is that an electric unit is a resistance heater with a picture of flames on it, so judge it on what it costs to run and on whether the room already has a better heat source, not on the fire effect.

What a fireplace installation involves, from site check to handover

  • A site visit that measures the room, checks what is above the ceiling and through the roof, and confirms the appliance can meet its clearances where you want it rather than where it looks best.
  • Confirming the hearth, because the Housing Provisions set real dimensions: a hearth to an open fireplace extends not less than 300 mm beyond the front of the opening and not less than 150 mm beyond each side, and a free standing appliance needs a hearth extending 400 mm from the front and sides of the appliance.
  • Confirming clearances to combustibles, including the provision that a free standing appliance be located not less than 1.2 m from adjoining walls where that option is relied on, and that combustible material sit not less than 150 mm from the upper surface of the hearth.
  • Assessing the existing flue if an insert is going into an old opening, since the Code requires insert appliances to have been tested and passed the tests required by AS/NZS 2918 and requires a clearance of 50 mm between the outer flue and adjacent materials.
  • Installing the flue or flue kit and weatherproofing the roof penetration properly, which is the point most likely to leak later and is roof plumbing rather than heater fitting.
  • For a gas appliance, the gasfitting: consumer piping to the appliance, the flue, checking the supply is adequate for everything connected to it, and testing for spillage of combustion products.
  • For an electric appliance, the electrical work and its certification, and for any appliance, commissioning, a demonstration of the controls, and handover of the manual, the compliance plate details and the warranty papers.

Licences, standards and approvals for a new fireplace in Australia

Solid fuel appliances are governed by the National Construction Code and the installation standard it calls up. The ABCB Housing Provisions deal with open fireplaces, chimneys, insert fireplaces and free standing heating appliances, and set the hearth, clearance and flue provisions above, including the requirement that a chimney or flue terminate not less than 300 mm above the highest part of the building within a horizontal distance of 3.6 m. Whether your council also wants an approval is a separate and local question. NSW Health puts the practical version of it well, advising that the heater and chimney be installed in line with council-specific building requirements, so ask your council or a registered building surveyor before the appliance is ordered rather than after.

Gas appliances are licensed work everywhere in Australia, and the wording is not soft. Energy Safe Victoria states that gas and electricity are inherently dangerous and that it is illegal and potentially fatal for unlicensed and unqualified people to undertake any gasfitting or electrical work, and that homeowners and consumers must always use a licensed or registered gasfitter. In New South Wales you need a licence or certificate to do any plumbing, draining or gasfitting work regardless of the cost of the work, and gasfitting work there expressly includes the installation, alteration, extension or repair of a gas installation and the installation, alteration, extension, removal or repair of any flue. In Queensland you need a licence or authorisation before you do any gas work at all, regardless of whether the work is residential, commercial or industrial, and the QBCC gasfitting licence covers installing, commissioning, maintaining, testing, altering, repairing and servicing a gas system in any building. The technical rules come from AS/NZS 5601: Energy Safe Victoria confirms AS/NZS 5601.1 and AS/NZS 5601.2 as the prescribed standards under regulation 14 of the Gas Safety (Gas Installation) Regulations 2018, with gasfitters expected to comply in full with the 2022 edition of AS/NZS 5601.1. Electric units are licensed too: in New South Wales you need an electrical licence or certificate before you can do any electrical wiring work, again regardless of the cost of the work.

LokalMatch sits before all of that. You describe the fireplace you want once, saying what fuel you are considering, what is in the room now, the roof type and the number of storeys, and matched local installers get in touch with you directly. Those businesses pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install fireplaces, does not set or quote prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so looking up the licence class on your state regulator's own register before you pay a deposit stays with you.

What actually drives the price of a fireplace installation

  • The fuel, because a gas appliance brings licensed gasfitting and certification that an electric unit does not bring at all.
  • How far the gas or electrical supply has to travel to reach the appliance, and whether the existing supply can carry another appliance.
  • The flue run: a single storey house with a straight path through the roof is a different job from a two storey house, a cathedral ceiling or an offset around a truss.
  • The roof type and the quality of the weatherproofing at the penetration, which is where money saved reappears as a leak.
  • Hearth and clearance work, including building or extending a hearth to the dimensions the Code requires and protecting nearby surfaces.
  • The condition of an existing opening and flue when an insert is going in, since an old chimney may need assessment or relining before it becomes part of a designed system.
  • Access and protection: scaffold or an elevated work platform for roof work, and covering floors and furnishings in a finished room.

Booking the work for a June to August heating season

Australian winter runs June to August, and heating trades fill from about a month ahead of it. The comfortable window to install is late summer through autumn, roughly February to May, when installers have room in the diary, the roof can be opened up in settled weather, and nobody is sitting in a cold house waiting for a part. Leave it until the first genuinely cold week and you join the queue with everyone else in Hobart, Ballarat, Armidale and the Adelaide Hills.

Autumn timing also lets you deal with the rest of the room while the work is happening. Draught sealing, ceiling insulation and curtains all change how much heat the room needs, and they are far cheaper than buying a larger appliance to overcome a leaky room. If the roof is due for attention or the gutters are being renewed, price the flue penetration at the same time rather than paying twice for access.

One more piece of Australian timing: if the house is in a bushfire prone area, the pre-season clean-up has its own earlier deadline, and a new flue and a fresh woodpile are both part of that conversation. Ask the installer how the flue terminates and what spark protection the appliance and flue kit come with.

The paperwork to insist on, and what the Australian Consumer Law gives you

For gas work, the certificate is the point. Energy Safe Victoria states that after installing a gas appliance the licensed gasfitter must give you a compliance certificate, and that your copy of the compliance certificate protects you if any problems arise later due to faulty installation. It also warns that you may be offered a cheap job excluding the cost of the compliance certificate, and that this is an offence under the Building Act 1993. Queensland runs its own version: on completing an installation the licence holder issues the owner or operator of the system with an original copy of the gas system compliance certificate. In Western Australia, the submission of Notices of Completion is a requirement of the Gas Standards (Gasfitting and Consumer Gas Installation) Regulations 1999, and a gas fitter must install an appliance in a suitable location and in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions or recommendations.

Underneath the certificates and the manufacturer's warranty sit the consumer guarantees. The ACCC explains that the basic rights covered by consumer guarantees cannot be taken away by anything a business says or does, that service providers must carry out all services using an acceptable level of care and skill, and that services and any resulting products must be fit for any stated purpose. An installer telling you that your only recourse is the appliance manufacturer is wrong about the installation itself.

Keep one folder: the quote and what it included, the compliance certificate or Notice of Completion, the appliance manual and serial number, the compliance plate details showing the emissions and efficiency standards for a wood heater, and the date of every service afterwards. It settles arguments, and it is what a buyer's conveyancer asks for when you sell the house.

Fireplace Installation: frequently asked questions

Can I still build a traditional open fireplace in an Australian house?

It is possible and the Code still covers it, but very few people do. An open fire is an inefficient heater, and woodsmoke is treated as an air quality problem, with EPA Victoria stating that wood heaters and open fireplaces contribute significantly to air pollution in Victoria. Most households wanting a fire install a freestanding or inbuilt appliance instead, and most masonry fireplace work in Australia is restoration on older housing rather than new construction.

How far does a freestanding wood heater have to sit from the wall?

It depends on the appliance and how it has been tested, but the Housing Provisions include an option under which a free standing appliance is located not less than 1.2 m from adjoining walls, and require its hearth to extend 400 mm from the front and sides of the appliance. Combustible material must also be not less than 150 mm from the upper surface of the hearth. Measure the room before you fall in love with a model, because these clearances rule appliances out of small rooms.

Can an insert be fitted into my old fireplace opening?

Often yes, but the old flue becomes part of a designed system rather than just a hole above the fire. The Code requires insert appliances to have been tested and passed the tests required by AS/NZS 2918 and requires a clearance of 50 mm between the outer flue and adjacent materials. Have the existing opening and flue assessed before ordering the appliance, because the state of the chimney frequently decides which units are usable.

Do I need council approval to install a wood heater?

Ask your council, because this is decided locally. NSW Health advises that the heater and chimney be installed in line with council-specific building requirements, and some councils have additional rules about solid fuel heating in particular areas. A registered building surveyor can also tell you. Make that call before the appliance is ordered rather than after it is standing in the lounge room.

Who is allowed to install a gas log fire?

A licensed gasfitter, everywhere in Australia. Energy Safe Victoria states that it is illegal and potentially fatal for unlicensed and unqualified people to undertake any gasfitting work and that consumers must always use a licensed or registered gasfitter. New South Wales requires a licence or certificate for any gasfitting work regardless of the cost, and Queensland requires a licence or authorisation before any gas work at all. Ask to see the licence card and read the registered classes on it.

How does LokalMatch work for a fireplace installation?

You set out the job once, with your postcode, the fuel you are considering, what is in the room now and what the roof is like, and installers covering your area contact you themselves. Those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install fireplaces, does not set or quote prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business, so comparing what each quote includes and checking licences remains your job.

Sources

  1. NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 12.4 Heating appliances, fireplaces, chimneys and flues
  2. EPA Victoria: Manage smoke from wood heaters
  3. NSW Health: Wood-burning heaters and your health
  4. NSW Government: Plumbing, draining and gasfitting licences
  5. NSW Government: Electrical licences
  6. Energy Safe Victoria: Gasfitters, licence cards and compliance certificates
  7. Queensland Building and Construction Commission: Gasfitting licence
  8. Building and Energy Western Australia: Information for gas licence holders
  9. ACCC: Consumer guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of fireplace installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of system and fuel source
  • Size and efficiency of the equipment
  • Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
  • Electrical or gas line changes
  • Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
  • Removal and disposal of the old equipment
  • Emergency or after-hours service

How to compare fireplace installers before you hire

  • Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
  • For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
  • Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
  • Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
  • Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.

Questions to ask fireplace installers before you hire

  • Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
  • How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
  • Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
  • Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
  • Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
  • How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?

When to call a pro for fireplace installation

  • If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
  • No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
  • Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use

Fireplace installation permits and local rules

Some fireplace installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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