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Dehumidifiers

Dehumidifiers near you

A dehumidifier is a machine that condenses water out of indoor air and collects it in a tank or sends it down a drain. In coastal Queensland, northern New South Wales, the Top End and the damp southern winters of Tasmania and Victoria, it is one of the most genuinely useful appliances a household can own. It is also, more often than anyone selling one will say, a way of paying an ongoing electricity bill to manage a building fault that could be fixed once.

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That is the framing worth holding onto. Air in a house gets its moisture from somewhere, and in Australian housing the usual somewheres are a poorly ventilated subfloor under a suspended timber floor, rising or lateral damp in a masonry wall, a roof or plumbing leak nobody has traced, an unflued gas heater putting water vapour into the room every hour it runs, showers and cooking without adequate extraction, and clothes dried indoors through winter. Each of those has a fix, and the dehumidifier does not perform it.

Used properly the machine is a tool in a sequence: find the source, fix what can be fixed, ventilate what should be ventilated, and run a dehumidifier to manage what is left or to dry a space out after an event. Used as a substitute for that sequence, it runs continuously, costs money continuously, and leaves the timber, plaster and insulation of the building quietly getting wetter behind the wall.

Signs an Australian house has a moisture problem rather than a humid week

  • Mould appearing on the same surfaces each year, particularly in wardrobes, behind furniture on external walls and in rooms on the shaded side of the house.
  • A musty smell that is strongest at floor level or when a cupboard is opened, which usually points at the subfloor or at a wall base.
  • Condensation running down windows on winter mornings, and timber window reveals or sills that are discoloured or soft.
  • Paint blistering, plaster bubbling or a tide mark on a wall a short distance above the floor, which is a damp problem and not an air problem.
  • Leather, fabric and stored paper going mouldy in a cupboard, which indicates sustained high humidity rather than a short humid spell.
  • Cupping or lifting of timber flooring, or doors that stick in the same months every year.
  • Rust on tools, hinges and fasteners in a garage, shed or laundry, which is a reliable and often overlooked indicator.

Finding the moisture source before you buy the machine

The investigation is worth paying for, because it is the difference between one repair and a permanent electricity bill. A competent assessment of an Australian house works from outside in and from underneath up, and none of it requires a dehumidifier to be present.

  • The subfloor: whether a suspended floor has working ventilation, whether vents have been blocked by garden beds, paving, a deck or a later extension, and whether the ground under the house is damp.
  • Site drainage: where stormwater from the roof actually goes, whether the ground falls away from the building, and whether a neighbour's paving now sends water at your wall.
  • The wet areas: whether the bathroom and laundry extraction discharges outside rather than into the roof space, and whether the rangehood is ducted or recirculating.
  • Plumbing and roof: any slow leak, a failed flashing, a blocked box gutter or a cracked shower waste, each of which adds water continuously.
  • Combustion appliances: whether an unflued gas heater is in use, since it puts water vapour into the room along with everything else it produces.
  • Household habits: clothes dried indoors, a laundry vented into the house, and aquariums or large numbers of indoor plants in a small space.
  • Only after all of that, whether the remaining humidity is simply the climate, which in the subtropics and tropics it frequently is.

Refrigerant and desiccant dehumidifiers, and which suits your climate

A refrigerant dehumidifier works like an air conditioner that keeps its water: air is drawn over a cold coil, moisture condenses out, and the drier air is returned to the room. It is efficient in warm, humid conditions, which makes it the natural choice for Brisbane, the northern rivers, Darwin and a Sydney summer. Its weakness is cold: as the room temperature falls, the coil approaches freezing, the machine spends time defrosting instead of drying, and its output drops away.

A desiccant dehumidifier passes air over a moisture-absorbing wheel and then drives the collected water off with heat. It does not care about cold, so it keeps working in an unheated Hobart or Ballarat house in July, in a garage or in a subfloor space where a refrigerant unit would struggle. It uses more electricity for the same water removed and warms the room slightly, which is sometimes welcome and sometimes not.

Because a refrigerant dehumidifier contains a sealed refrigerant circuit, it is refrigeration and air conditioning equipment. The Australian Refrigeration Council states that any person who handles refrigerant or works on such equipment must hold a refrigerant handling licence, and that under the regulations it is an offence of strict liability to handle fluorocarbon refrigerant without the appropriate licence. That matters if a unit ever needs repair rather than replacement.

Dehumidifying, ventilating or air conditioning: three different answers

Ventilation is the right answer when the air inside is wetter than the air outside, which in a southern Australian winter is often the case for a house generating moisture indoors. Opening up on a dry afternoon and running the exhaust fans while showering and cooking removes moisture at no running cost. It is the wrong answer in a humid subtropical summer, when opening the house imports moisture rather than exporting it.

Air conditioning dehumidifies as a by-product of cooling, and in humid coastal Australia that is a large part of what makes a conditioned room comfortable. What it does not do is manage moisture in a space you are not cooling, such as a closed-up holiday house, a garage, a wardrobe-lined hallway or a subfloor, and an oversized air conditioner that reaches temperature quickly can leave a room cool and clammy because it never ran long enough to remove much water.

A dehumidifier is the right answer for the spaces and seasons the other two cannot reach: an unheated room in a damp southern winter, a closed house in the wet season, a space being dried out after a leak, and a building that has a manageable residual moisture load once the fixable sources have been fixed. Sequence matters more than choice: source first, ventilation second, machine third.

Running and maintaining a dehumidifier so it earns its electricity

  • Run it in a closed room rather than a house with the doors and windows open, since a dehumidifier in an open house is dehumidifying the suburb.
  • Set a target on the humidistat and let the machine cycle, rather than running it continuously at maximum.
  • Plumb the drain to a suitable discharge point if it will run unattended, because a full tank simply stops the machine and leaves the water in the room air anyway.
  • Clean the intake filter regularly, since a blocked filter reduces airflow, cuts water removal and makes the unit work harder for less.
  • Keep the clearance the manufacturer specifies around the cabinet so air can circulate through it properly.
  • Empty and dry the tank when the unit is stored, and clean it before the next season rather than after.
  • Watch the water it collects: a sudden increase with no change in the weather is a sign that something in the building has started leaking.

The Australian moisture calendar

The wet season across northern Australia and the summer humidity of the east coast are the obvious high points, and that is when refrigerant dehumidifiers do their best work. Less obvious is the southern winter, when a Melbourne, Adelaide, Hobart or highland house is closed up, unheated in parts, and quietly accumulating moisture from cooking, showering, breathing and drying clothes indoors. That is the season in which mould appears in wardrobes and on the walls of rooms nobody uses.

The shoulder seasons are when the fixable work should happen. Clearing subfloor vents, correcting drainage, ducting an exhaust fan to outside, tracing a leak and replacing an unflued heater are all jobs better done in autumn or spring than in the middle of the problem. A dehumidifier bought in the first damp week and left running for years is what happens when the shoulder season passes without anyone doing them.

What a moisture investigation and a dehumidifier involve, and how LokalMatch fits in

Two different spends are in play. The appliance is a purchase, and the things to weigh are the room volume it is rated for, whether it is refrigerant or desiccant given your climate, whether it can be plumbed to a drain, the noise level if it will run in a living area, and how easy the filter is to clean. The investigation and the repairs are a job, and their cost depends entirely on what is causing the moisture, which is why a diagnosis comes before a quote.

LokalMatch is where the job starts, not where it ends. Describe what you are seeing, where in the house, at what time of year, the floor construction and your postcode, and building, plumbing, ventilation and restoration businesses covering your area contact you directly; those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the work, does not set or quote prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so ask for the source of the moisture to be identified in writing before you accept a proposal to manage it.

Dehumidifiers: frequently asked questions

Will a dehumidifier stop mould in my house?

It will hold humidity down in the room it is running in, which reduces the conditions mould needs. It will not stop mould that is being fed by a subfloor with blocked vents, damp in a wall, a roof or plumbing leak, or an exhaust fan discharging into the roof space, because the water keeps arriving. Find and fix the source first; use the machine for what is left. Existing mould also has to be removed rather than simply dried.

Refrigerant or desiccant: which should I buy in Australia?

Refrigerant units are efficient in warm, humid conditions and are the usual choice for the subtropics, the tropics and an east coast summer, but their output falls away as the room gets cold and they spend time defrosting. Desiccant units keep working in the cold, which suits an unheated southern winter, a garage or a subfloor space, at the cost of using more electricity and warming the room slightly. Match the machine to the conditions it will actually work in, not to the national average.

Is it cheaper to run a dehumidifier or the air conditioner?

It depends on whether you also want the room cooled. An air conditioner removes moisture as a by-product of cooling and is very effective at it in humid weather, so in a room you are cooling anyway it is usually the better choice. A dehumidifier is what you use where cooling is not wanted or not possible: an unheated room in winter, a closed-up house, a garage, or a space being dried out after a leak. Comparing them without saying which job you are doing produces a meaningless answer.

Why is my house damp in winter when it is not raining?

Because in winter the house is closed, and a household adds a surprising amount of water to its own air through showering, cooking, drying clothes indoors and simply breathing. Unflued gas heaters add more, since they put water vapour into the room along with everything else the flame produces. Cold surfaces then condense that moisture out on window reveals, external wall bases and the inside of wardrobes. Extraction at the source and some deliberate ventilation on dry afternoons usually does more than any appliance.

Do subfloor vents matter?

A great deal, in the large part of Australian housing stock built with a suspended timber floor over a ventilated subfloor. Those vents are how the space under the house stays dry, and over decades they get covered by garden beds, paving, decks, extensions and stored material. A damp subfloor pushes moisture up through the floor continuously, and it is one of the most common causes of unexplained damp and mould in an older Australian house. It is also one of the cheapest to correct.

Can a dehumidifier be repaired if it stops working?

A desiccant unit is largely mechanical and electrical. A refrigerant unit contains a sealed refrigerant circuit, which makes it refrigeration and air conditioning equipment: the Australian Refrigeration Council states that any person who handles refrigerant or works on such equipment must hold a refrigerant handling licence, and that handling fluorocarbon refrigerant without the appropriate licence is an offence of strict liability. On a small household unit, repair is often uneconomic, but it should never be attempted by opening the circuit yourself.

Sources

  1. Australian Refrigeration Council: Refrigerant handling licence, frequently asked questions
  2. Energy Safe Victoria: Heating your home with gas

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of dehumidifier

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of system and fuel source
  • Size and efficiency of the equipment
  • Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
  • Electrical or gas line changes
  • Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
  • Removal and disposal of the old equipment
  • Emergency or after-hours service

How to compare HVAC technicians before you hire

  • Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
  • For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
  • Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
  • Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
  • Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.

Questions to ask HVAC technicians before you hire

  • Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
  • How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
  • Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
  • Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
  • Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
  • How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?

When to call a pro for dehumidifier

  • If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
  • No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
  • Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use

Dehumidifier permits and local rules

Some dehumidifier work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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