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In-Floor Heating

In-Floor Heating near you

In-floor heating is one name covering two entirely different jobs done by two different licensed trades. Electric underfloor heating is a mat or cable laid under tile or inside a screed and connected by a licensed electrical worker. Hydronic underfloor heating is a network of water pipes in or under the floor served by a central heat source, and the pipework is licensed plumbing work. The finished effect is similar; almost nothing else about the two projects is.

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The decision is usually made for you by the floor you already have. Australia builds a great deal of housing on a concrete slab on ground, and a slab is an excellent host for hydronic pipework if you are pouring it, because the mass holds heat and releases it slowly. Retrofitting into an existing slab is a different proposition entirely, which is why most Australian retrofits are electric mats under a new tiled floor in a bathroom, an ensuite or a kitchen rather than a whole-house hydronic system.

Because both versions are buried, everything that matters happens before the floor goes down. The insulation under the heated layer, the position of the sensor, the waterproofing in a wet area, the floor covering chosen on top and the way the system is controlled all determine whether you get an even, responsive warm floor or an expensive one that never quite works. None of it can be corrected afterwards without lifting the floor.

Electric mats, in-slab cable and hydronic pipework

  • Electric heating mats, a cable pre-spaced on a mesh, rolled out over the substrate and set into the tile adhesive, which is the standard retrofit for an Australian bathroom or ensuite.
  • Loose electric cable, laid to a spacing set by the designer, which suits rooms with an awkward shape where a mat would need too much cutting.
  • In-screed electric cable, set in a sand and cement screed over the slab, which adds thermal mass and evens the surface temperature at the cost of depth and response time.
  • In-slab electric cable, cast into the concrete during construction, which is slow to respond and generally run on a controlled load supply rather than switched on demand.
  • Hydronic in-slab pipework, laid before the pour and served by a gas boiler or a heat pump, which suits new construction across the cooler southern states.
  • Hydronic under-joist or overlay panel systems for a suspended timber floor, which is how hydronic is retrofitted into an older Australian house with a subfloor.

Choosing between electric and hydronic in an Australian house

Electric wins on installation cost, on simplicity and on suitability for a single room. There is no heat source to house, no pipework to run back to a plant location, no water to leak, and the whole job for one bathroom can be done in a day alongside the tiling. It loses on running cost, because it is resistance heating paid for at retail electricity prices, which is why it is normally specified for a room rather than a house and controlled by a timer rather than left on.

Hydronic wins on running cost and on comfort across a large area, particularly when the heat source is a heat pump rather than gas. It loses on capital cost, on the space and plant it requires, and on retrofit difficulty. In an existing Australian house on a slab, the realistic hydronic options are an overlay system that raises the floor level or an under-joist system where there is a subfloor to work in, and both need someone to think about door heights and thresholds before any pipe is ordered.

There is a third consideration that catches people out. Underfloor heating is a slow, even, background heat, and it behaves badly if you expect it to respond like a split system. In a well-insulated house that is a virtue. In a poorly insulated one it is an expensive way of warming the ground, which is why an honest installer asks about the ceiling insulation and the glazing before quoting the floor.

How an in-floor heating installation is sequenced

The sequence is the product. Every decision below is locked in permanently the moment the floor covering goes down, and the ones people regret are almost always ones that were left to the day of the pour or the day of the tiling.

  • Insulation under the heated layer, so the heat travels up into the room rather than down into the slab or the subfloor, which is the item most often cut from a quote and most often regretted.
  • A set-out that keeps the heating away from where a fixture, a vanity leg, a floor waste or a future screw fixing will land.
  • In a wet area, waterproofing carried out and inspected in the correct order relative to the heating, because a membrane penetrated by a later installer is a leak waiting to happen.
  • The floor sensor placed in a conduit so it can be replaced without breaking the floor, which is a small detail with a large consequence.
  • Electrical connection, circuit protection and the residual current device arrangement handled by a licensed electrical worker, or the hydronic circuits pressure-tested and left under pressure while the floor goes down.
  • The floor covering laid, with an adhesive and a covering the heating manufacturer accepts, since timber and some vinyls have maximum surface temperatures.
  • Commissioning with a documented warm-up schedule, then a photographic record and an as-built plan of where every cable or pipe runs.

Two licensed trades, and the certificates each should leave behind

Electric underfloor heating is fixed electrical work. In Australia that means a licensed electrical worker, and in most states a certificate issued for the work. Ask for it in the name of the property and keep it, because a buried heating circuit is exactly the sort of thing a future buyer's inspector will ask about and exactly the sort of thing that is impossible to verify afterwards by looking.

Hydronic underfloor heating is licensed plumbing work on the water side, and the heat source adds a second licensed trade: gasfitting for a gas boiler, or electrical work for a heat pump's supply. Each of those trades issues its own compliance paperwork in most states, so a hydronic project finishes with a small folder rather than a single certificate. A quote that bundles everything under one trade name is worth questioning.

Whoever does the work, insist on an as-built record. A plan showing where the cables or pipes run, photographed before the floor covering went down, is what lets a future tradesperson core a hole for a new fixture without destroying the system. It costs nothing at the time and is unobtainable later.

What goes wrong with underfloor heating, and why it is hard to fix

  • No insulation under the heating, so a large share of the output warms the slab or the subfloor and the room takes forever to respond.
  • A failed floor sensor in a system where nobody ran a conduit, which turns a minor part into a floor demolition.
  • Physical damage from a later trade drilling or coring for a vanity, a towel rail, a floor waste or a shower screen, with no as-built plan to consult.
  • A floor covering laid over the heating that the manufacturer never approved, leading to cupping in timber or discolouration in vinyl.
  • Controls set to switch the system on and off like a radiator, which suits neither an in-screed nor an in-slab system and produces a floor that is warm at the wrong times.
  • On hydronic, air in the circuits or a circulator that was never balanced, giving warm patches and cold ones across the same room.
  • Waterproofing damaged during the heating installation in a bathroom, which shows up much later as a damp wall in the adjoining room.

How long the buried part lasts, and what will fail first

The buried element itself, whether a cable or a pipe, is the part with the longest life and the fewest moving parts, and in an undisturbed floor it is generally expected to last as long as the floor covering above it. What fails first is everything accessible: the thermostat and its sensor, the circulator and valves on a hydronic system, and the heat source itself, which is a boiler or a heat pump with its own service life and its own service requirements.

That asymmetry should shape what you buy. Choose a control system that is a standard size and will still have a replacement available in a decade, put the sensor in a conduit, and keep the hydronic manifold somewhere you can reach it rather than behind a built-in wardrobe. The parts you can replace should be the parts that wear out, and on a well-designed floor heating system they are.

What moves an in-floor heating quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

For electric, the drivers are the heated area, whether the floor is being replaced anyway, the substrate, whether the switchboard has a spare way and whether insulation board is included. For hydronic, add the heat source and its fuel, the distance from the plant location to the rooms, whether the floor level can rise, and whether there is a subfloor to work in. A retrofit into a floor that is not otherwise coming up is always the expensive version, because the demolition and reinstatement outweigh the heating.

LokalMatch is where the job starts, not where it ends. Describe the rooms, the floor construction, whether the floor covering is being replaced, whether you have gas, and your postcode, and electrical, plumbing and hydronic heating businesses covering your area contact you directly; those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the work, does not set or quote prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so confirm the insulation, the sensor conduit and the as-built record are in the scope before the floor goes down.

In-Floor Heating: frequently asked questions

Can underfloor heating be retrofitted into an existing concrete slab?

Not into the slab itself without cutting it, which is rarely worth doing. The practical retrofits are an electric mat set into the adhesive under a new tiled floor, or an overlay system that sits on top of the existing slab and raises the finished floor level. The overlay route means thinking about door heights, thresholds and the transition to adjoining rooms before anything is ordered, so raise it with the installer at the quoting stage rather than after demolition.

Is electric underfloor heating expensive to run?

It is resistance heating, so it converts electricity to heat one for one and pays retail electricity prices for it. That is affordable for a bathroom floor on a timer and expensive for a whole house left on. Insulation under the heating and a control that runs it only when the room is used are the two things that make the difference. If you are heating a large area every day, ask the installer to compare it against a hydronic system on a heat pump before you decide.

Who is allowed to install underfloor heating in Australia?

Electric underfloor heating is fixed electrical work and must be connected by a licensed electrical worker, who in most states issues a certificate for the work. Hydronic underfloor heating is licensed plumbing work on the water side, and the heat source brings in gasfitting for a gas boiler or electrical work for a heat pump. A tiler may lay the mat, but the connection is not theirs to make, and the certificate is what proves it was done properly.

What floor coverings can go over underfloor heating?

Tile and stone are the natural partners because they conduct heat well and tolerate the temperature. Engineered timber, vinyl and laminate can often be used but come with a maximum surface temperature and sometimes a required adhesive, and solid timber is the most temperamental of all because it moves with heat and moisture. Thick carpet and heavy underlay insulate the room from the floor and largely defeat the point. Check the covering manufacturer's position and the heating manufacturer's position, because both have one.

What happens if the heating cable is damaged later?

A break in an electric heating circuit stops the whole circuit, and locating it means specialist fault-finding followed by opening the floor at that point. This is why an as-built plan and photographs taken before the floor covering went down are worth insisting on, and why every later trade drilling into that floor should be shown them first. Vanity legs, towel rails, shower screens and floor wastes are the usual culprits.

How long does it take for a heated floor to warm up?

It depends entirely on how much mass sits between the element and your feet. A thin electric mat under tile responds in well under an hour. An in-screed system takes several hours. An in-slab system takes most of a day and is designed to be run as a slow background heat rather than switched on when you feel cold. Match the control strategy to the construction, because trying to run a slab like a radiator produces the worst of both.

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of in-floor heating

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of system and fuel source
  • Size and efficiency of the equipment
  • Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
  • Electrical or gas line changes
  • Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
  • Removal and disposal of the old equipment
  • Emergency or after-hours service

How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
  • For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
  • Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
  • Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
  • Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.

Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
  • How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
  • Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
  • Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
  • Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
  • How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?

When to call a pro for in-floor heating

  • If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
  • No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
  • Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use

In-floor heating permits and local rules

Some in-floor heating work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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