Radiant Heating
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Radiant heating warms surfaces and bodies directly rather than heating the air and moving it around. That makes it feel different from ducted heating in a way people notice immediately: you feel warm standing in front of it even in a draughty room, and the room itself stays cooler. In Australian houses it turns up as electric radiant panels and strip heaters, bathroom heat lamps, gas radiant space heaters and wall furnaces, and as the radiators of a hydronic system.
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The division that matters here is not gas against electric. It is flued against unflued. A flued appliance sends its combustion products outside through a flue; an unflued one releases everything it produces, including water vapour and whatever carbon monoxide the flame makes, into the room you are sitting in. Energy Safe Victoria's warning applies squarely to this category: carbon monoxide is a gas you cannot see or smell, and any gas heater can spill it, including space heaters, wall furnaces and decorative log fires.
So the installation question splits by fuel into two licensed trades. Anything gas is gasfitting, a separately licensed class in every Australian state and territory. A hard-wired electric panel, strip heater or heat lamp is electrical work, which in Australia may only be carried out by a licensed electrical worker. A plug-in portable radiant heater is neither, which is precisely why portable heaters cause the trouble they do.
The radiant heaters found in Australian homes
Radiant is a description of how the heat travels, not of a single product, and the choices behind it differ enormously in running cost, installation and risk. These are the forms an Australian installer will quote.
- Electric radiant panels, mounted flat to a wall or ceiling, quiet and with no moving parts, sized to a room and hard-wired by a licensed electrician.
- Strip and bar heaters, often fitted high on a bathroom or bedroom wall, which warm the surfaces beneath them quickly and lose it just as fast.
- Heat lamps in a bathroom ceiling module, usually combined with a light and an exhaust fan, which is the most common radiant fitting in Australian housing.
- Gas radiant space heaters and wall furnaces, which may be flued or unflued and which are the category Energy Safe Victoria's carbon monoxide advice is written about.
- Hydronic radiators and radiant panels fed by a central heat source, which is licensed plumbing work on the water side and gasfitting or electrical work at the heat source.
- Outdoor radiant heaters for a deck or alfresco area, where the same flued and unflued distinction applies and where clearances to a roof or shade structure are the issue.
- Portable plug-in radiant heaters, which need no licence to install and which is exactly why their placement and their cord need thought.
When radiant heat makes sense in an Australian house, and when it does not
Radiant heating is at its best where you want a person warm rather than a building warm: a bathroom used for twenty minutes, a study at the end of a hallway, a high-ceilinged room where heated air would simply rise out of reach, an old weatherboard with gaps that would defeat any attempt to warm the air. Because it heats surfaces, it also works in a space that is partly open to outside, which is why it is the only sensible option on a deck.
It is at its worst as a whole-house strategy. Electric resistance heating converts electricity to heat efficiently but buys that heat at retail electricity prices, whereas a reverse cycle air conditioner moves heat rather than making it and delivers several times more heat than the electricity it consumes. For a whole house in a southern Australian winter, that difference dominates every other consideration, and it is why Australian energy agencies consistently point households towards reverse cycle for general heating.
The honest brief is therefore a mixed one. Reverse cycle for the spaces you live in, radiant for the spaces you occupy briefly or cannot economically heat by air. Anyone quoting radiant panels for an entire house should be asked to explain what the running cost will look like against the alternative before you sign.
Unflued gas heaters, clearances and the hazards particular to radiant heat
An unflued gas radiant heater puts everything the flame produces into the room, which is why ventilation is not optional with one and why they are unsuitable for bedrooms and bathrooms. Energy Safe Victoria's household advice on open-flued appliances is relevant to the flued versions too: do not operate exhaust fans at the same time as the heater, because lowering the pressure in the room can restrict or reverse the flue and drive combustion products back inside.
Radiant surfaces are also hot surfaces, and that is a separate hazard from combustion. A radiant element reaches a temperature that will ignite fabric placed against it and will burn a child or an elderly person who touches or falls against it. Clothing draped over a heater to dry is the classic Australian house fire, and it is caused by radiant heaters far more often than by ducted systems, because a radiant heater looks like a convenient warm rail.
Where an appliance is fixed, the clearances in the installation instructions are what keep it safe, and they apply to curtains, bedding, furniture, stored items and the shade structure above an outdoor heater. Where it is portable, the equivalent protection is a clear space around it, a hard flat surface under it, and no extension lead or power board. Any gas radiant appliance should be serviced on the same basis as other gas heating: at least once every two years by a qualified gasfitter who tests for carbon monoxide leakage.
What a radiant heating installation involves
- A room-by-room assessment of what is actually being heated, since radiant output is sized to the space and to where people sit rather than to floor area alone.
- A decision on mounting position, because a radiant panel or strip aimed at a wall behind a wardrobe is heating the wardrobe.
- For electric panels and lamps, confirmation that the circuit can carry the load, which on an older Australian switchboard is frequently the real constraint.
- For gas appliances, confirmation of flue routing, combustion air and clearances, and whether the room is suitable for an unflued appliance at all.
- The fixing itself, into structure rather than plasterboard alone for anything with weight or heat behind it.
- Controls, since a radiant heater without a thermostat or timer is a heater that gets left on.
- The certificate or compliance paperwork appropriate to the trade, which is a certificate of electrical safety or equivalent for electrical work and a gas compliance certificate for gasfitting.
Who may install a radiant heater, and what paperwork you should end up with
Australia does not permit unlicensed people to do their own fixed electrical or gas work, and radiant heating sits in both camps depending on the fuel. Hard-wiring a panel, a strip heater or a bathroom heat lamp module is electrical work for a licensed electrical worker, who in most states issues a certificate for the work. Installing or servicing a gas radiant heater is gasfitting, and Energy Safe Victoria's requirement that the work be done by a licensed Type A gasfitter holding a photo identification card listing the work they may do is the Victorian expression of a rule that has an equivalent in every state.
Keep the certificate. It is the document that proves the work was done by someone entitled to do it, and it is what an insurer, a conveyancer or a subsequent gasfitter will ask for. For a gas appliance, keep the service history alongside it, because with radiant gas heating the service record is a safety record.
Looking after radiant heating
- Dust electric panels and strip heaters before the first cold week, because accumulated summer dust is what produces the burning smell on the first run.
- Replace heat lamp globes with the type and rating specified for the fitting, not with whatever fits the socket.
- Have gas radiant appliances serviced at least every two years by a qualified gasfitter, including carbon monoxide testing.
- Check that nothing has been stored, hung or built within the clearance distance, which drifts over the years as rooms get rearranged.
- On hydronic radiators, watch for cold patches at the top and for any weeping at valves, and get a licensed plumber to attend rather than bleeding a sealed system blind.
- On outdoor radiant heaters, check the mounting and the clearance to the shade structure before each season, and after any storm.
What moves a radiant heating quote, and how LokalMatch fits in
The drivers are the number of rooms, the output required in each, whether the existing switchboard and circuits can take the load, whether gas is involved and what the flue would require, and how difficult it is to get a cable or a gas line to the position you want the appliance in. A single bathroom module replaced like for like is a short visit. Panels through several rooms of a house whose switchboard is at its limit is a different project, and the switchboard work can be the larger half of it.
LokalMatch is where the job starts, not where it ends. Describe the rooms, what heating is there now, whether the house has gas, the age of the switchboard and your postcode, and electrical and gasfitting businesses covering your area contact you directly; those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the work, does not set or quote prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so ask for the running cost comparison and the compliance certificate in writing.
Radiant Heating: frequently asked questions
Is radiant heating expensive to run in Australia?
Electric radiant heating is expensive to run as a whole-house solution, because it converts electricity to heat one for one and pays retail electricity prices for it, while a reverse cycle air conditioner moves heat and delivers considerably more than it consumes. Radiant earns its place where you need warmth quickly in a space you occupy briefly, or in a space that cannot be sealed, such as a bathroom, a workshop or a deck. For heating rooms you live in all evening, compare it against reverse cycle before committing.
Are unflued gas heaters safe to use indoors?
An unflued heater puts its combustion products, including water vapour and any carbon monoxide the flame produces, into the room. Energy Safe Victoria warns that any gas heater can spill carbon monoxide, including space heaters and wall furnaces, and that it is a gas you cannot see or smell. Unflued appliances need generous ventilation, must never be used in bedrooms or bathrooms, and should be serviced at least every two years by a qualified gasfitter who tests for carbon monoxide leakage. If you have one and are unsure of its history, have it checked before you use it.
Can I install a radiant panel or bathroom heat lamp myself?
Not if it is hard-wired. Fixed electrical work in Australia may only be carried out by a licensed electrical worker, and a ceiling module combining a heat lamp, light and exhaust fan is fixed electrical work. A plug-in portable radiant heater is not, but it comes with its own rules: a clear space around it, a hard surface under it, direct to a wall socket rather than an extension lead or power board, and never used to dry clothing.
Why does my radiant heater smell when I first turn it on for the year?
Usually because dust that settled over summer is burning off the element, which is normal for the first few minutes and should clear. If the smell persists, is sharp or chemical, or is accompanied by any discolouration or scorching around the appliance, turn it off and have it looked at. On a gas appliance, any persistent burning or unusual smell warrants a gasfitter rather than another try.
Do radiant heaters work in a room with high ceilings?
Better than air-based heating does, which is one of their genuine advantages. Warmed air rises and collects at ceiling level where nobody benefits from it, whereas radiant output warms the surfaces and people it reaches. The practical requirement is line of sight: a radiant panel or strip has to be aimed at the area you actually occupy, and anything between it and you casts a cold shadow.
What clearance does a radiant heater need?
The distance in the manufacturer's installation instructions, which varies by appliance and is what the installer works to. Treat it as a permanent exclusion zone rather than a guideline, and remember that it applies to curtains, bedding, furniture, stored boxes and, for an outdoor heater, the shade sail or pergola roof above it. Most clearance failures in Australian homes happen years after installation, when a room is rearranged and nobody thinks about the heater on the wall.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of radiant heating
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Type of system and fuel source
- Size and efficiency of the equipment
- Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
- Electrical or gas line changes
- Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
- Removal and disposal of the old equipment
- Emergency or after-hours service
How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire
- Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
- For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
- Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
- Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
- Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.
Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire
- Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
- How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
- Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
- Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
- Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
- How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?
When to call a pro for radiant heating
- If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
- If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
- No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
- Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use
Radiant heating permits and local rules
Some radiant heating work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
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