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A staircase is part of the structure and also the part of the house people handle most. Stair work ranges from building a new staircase for an addition or a finished basement, to rebuilding worn treads and risers, refinishing a tired oak stair, replacing carpet with hardwood and upgrading handrails and guards. Stair builders and finish carpenters do most of it, often with parts made in a shop.

Our carpenters page takes a general look at stairs and guards. Here we go further: when to build new and when to renovate, carpet-to-hardwood conversions, railing and guard options, what the building code covers, the details that prevent falls, basement stairs and what shapes the timeline. Because a stair links two floors, the work also changes how you move around the house while it is under way.

New staircases, stair renovations and refinishing: choosing the right job

The right approach depends on the condition of the stringers underneath, whether the steps are comfortable and even, and whether the layout still works.

  • Building a new staircase means laying out stringers, treads and risers to suit the floor-to-floor height, in a straight run or around a landing, and framing the floor opening to match.
  • Replacing a staircase is the answer when stringers are cracked, sagging or rotten, or when the steps are too steep or uneven to correct by covering them.
  • Renovating keeps the structure and replaces treads, risers, nosings and trim, or covers the old treads with new caps.
  • Refinishing strips, sands and recoats existing hardwood treads and railings, which suits a sound stair whose finish is simply worn.
  • Moving or turning a staircase changes the floor framing around the opening and belongs in a larger project with drawings and a permit.

Replacing stair carpet with hardwood treads

Under old carpet you may find hardwood treads worth refinishing, or construction-grade treads that were never meant to be seen. The installer removes the carpet, tack strips and staples, then refinishes what is there, installs new hardwood treads and risers, or fits caps over the existing steps. Adding thickness to the treads changes the height of the bottom and top steps unless it is planned for, and that one odd step is exactly what trips people, so a careful installer measures the whole flight before ordering.

  • Tread caps are quicker, but they must be glued and fastened solidly to the old treads so they never shift or sound hollow.
  • Full new treads and risers give the cleanest result and a consistent nosing profile from top to bottom.
  • Matching new treads to the hardwood floor on a landing or upper floor usually calls for sample stains and finishing on site.
  • Bare hardwood is noisier and more slippery than carpet, especially in socks; a low-sheen finish or a well-fastened runner helps.

Stair railings and guards: wood, metal and glass options

The handrail is what you hold; the guard is the barrier along the open side of a stair or landing. Many stairs need both, and each has to be strong enough for the loads people put on it, not only good-looking.

  • Wood balusters and newel posts in oak, maple or paint-grade species suit traditional homes and can be refinished along with the stairs.
  • Metal balusters or panels give a slimmer look and pair well with a wood handrail.
  • Glass guards open up a room visually but must use glass and hardware designed for guards, and they show fingerprints.
  • Horizontal cable and rail designs look sleek, but building codes limit guards that young children can climb, so check what your building department accepts.
  • A handrail should be continuous and shaped so a hand can wrap around it, which a wide flat board doesn't allow.
  • Newels and guard posts need solid anchoring into framing or blocking; a wobbly post is usually a fastening problem, not a wood problem.

Stair and guard rules in the building code: permits and inspections

Stairs in houses are regulated by Part 9 of the National Building Code of Canada, or by the provincial code based on it, such as Quebec's Construction Code, in the edition adopted where you live. It sets requirements for the rise and run of steps and their uniformity, stair width, headroom above the stair, and the height, strength and openings of handrails and guards. Because the exact figures depend on the edition and the province, your stair builder should work from the code that applies to your address, not from a rule of thumb.

Building a new staircase, replacing one or changing its layout usually calls for a building permit and inspection, while refinishing or replacing treads and balusters within the same layout often doesn't; your municipality decides. In Quebec, the contractor must hold an RBQ licence that covers the work. An old stair that doesn't meet today's rules can often stay as it is, but once you rebuild, expect the inspector to hold the new work to the current code.

Stair safety: handrails on both sides, good lighting and visible edges

The Public Health Agency of Canada's guide to preventing falls advises keeping stairs well lit and installing solid handrails on both sides of the stairway, and warns that rushing up or down stairs is a major cause of falls. A second handrail is one of the most useful upgrades for older adults, young children and anyone carrying a laundry basket, and it is a small job during a stair renovation.

  • Light switches at both the top and bottom of the stairs, or motion-activated lighting, mean nobody climbs in the dark; new switches and fixtures are work for a licensed electrician.
  • Tread edges that contrast with the rest of the step help people see where each step ends, especially as eyesight declines.
  • Glossy finishes, loose runners and worn carpet on the nosings are common slip and trip points.
  • Handrails that run the full length of the flight let a hand stay on the rail from the first step to the last.

Basement stairs: common problems and signs it's time to rebuild

Basement stairs in older homes are often the steepest, narrowest and darkest in the house, sometimes with open risers, no handrail and stringers sitting on a damp slab, and they are the stairs people use while carrying laundry or boxes.

  • Stringers resting on concrete can wick moisture and rot at the bottom; soft wood, stains or a bounce in the last steps are warning signs.
  • Open risers and a missing guard on the open side are a fall risk, especially for children.
  • Steps that are too steep or uneven usually can't be corrected with new treads, and a rebuild may mean enlarging the floor opening, which is structural work for a professional.
  • Low headroom under a beam or duct is common; changing it involves framing or ductwork and calls for a designer, an HVAC technician or both.
  • Finishing the basement is the natural time to rebuild the stair to the current code, add handrails and a guard, and install lighting switched from both ends.

Staircase project timeline: what affects how long it takes

Stair work takes a main route through the house out of service, so ask how you'll get upstairs during the job. Many installers finish treads in stages or work on alternate steps so the stair stays usable, but a full rebuild of the only staircase needs a plan.

  • Shop-made treads, stringers and railings are built after final measurements, which adds lead time before installation.
  • Stains and floor finishes need drying and curing time between coats before the stairs take regular traffic.
  • Permits, inspections and any framing changes around the floor opening add steps before and during the work.
  • Removing carpet or old treads can reveal damaged stringers that change the plan.
  • Matching existing floors and trim often means sample stains and approvals before finishing.

Staircases: frequently asked questions

Why do my stairs squeak, and can it be fixed?

Squeaks usually come from a tread or riser that has loosened and rubs against its neighbour or a nail. A carpenter can glue and screw loose parts from below when the underside is open, or from above with concealed fasteners. It is easiest when the carpet is off during a renovation.

Can worn stair treads be refinished instead of replaced?

Sound solid hardwood treads can usually be stripped, sanded and refinished, sometimes more than once. Treads with a thin veneer, deep damage or a paint that won't strip cleanly are often better replaced or capped. A stair contractor can check the thickness and condition of each tread before quoting.

Do I need a permit to replace my stairs?

Replacing a staircase or changing its layout usually requires a municipal building permit and inspection. Swapping treads or balusters within the same layout often doesn't, but rules vary, so check with your municipality before booking the work.

Can a second handrail be added to an existing staircase?

In most cases, yes, and it is exactly what public health falls-prevention advice recommends. The brackets must be fastened into studs or blocking, not just drywall, so the installer may need to open the wall and add blocking before the rail goes up.

Sources

  1. National Research Council Canada: National Building Code of Canada 2020
  2. National Research Council Canada: Model code adoption across Canada
  3. Public Health Agency of Canada: You CAN prevent falls!
  4. RBQ: Check a contractor's licence

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of staircase

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare stair builders before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask stair builders before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Staircase permits and local rules

Some staircase work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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