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Sink Installation

Sink Installation near you

Install or replace kitchen, bathroom and laundry sinks. Tell us about your sink installation project and we’ll help you find local plumbers who serve your area.

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This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
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A new sink looks like a simple swap, but it sits where several trades meet. The countertop has to be cut and supported for it, the faucet has to fit its holes or deck, the drain has to reach a properly vented trap, and the supply lines, shut-off valves, dishwasher and garbage disposal all connect in the cabinet underneath. Sink installation covers kitchen sinks, bathroom basins and vanities, and the deep utility sinks found in laundry rooms and basements.

Most jobs are replacements in the same spot, which keeps the plumbing simple. Moving a sink, adding one to a kitchen island or putting a laundry sink in a basement with no drain nearby is a bigger project: the new drain needs the right slope and a vent, and the work may call for a permit.

Planning the sink together with the countertop, the faucet and the appliances around it avoids the classic problems: a bowl that doesn't fit the cabinet, a faucet that can't be mounted, or a drain set so low that the dishwasher struggles to empty.

Kitchen and bathroom sink types: undermount, drop-in, farmhouse, vessel and pedestal

  • Drop-in or top-mount: the rim rests on the countertop, which makes it the easiest to install or replace and a natural fit for laminate; the joint between rim and counter does collect crumbs and grime.
  • Undermount: the bowl is bonded and clipped under a solid countertop such as stone or quartz so you can wipe straight into it; it needs a counter with a finished cut edge, and replacing it later can disturb the countertop.
  • Farmhouse or apron-front: a deep bowl with an exposed front that needs a sink base built or modified for it, with solid support underneath for its weight when full.
  • Vessel: a basin sitting on top of the vanity; it needs a tall or wall-mounted faucet and a vanity low enough that the rim ends up at a comfortable height.
  • Pedestal and wall-hung: a basin on a column or fixed to the wall, which frees floor space but hides almost nothing, so the trap and supply lines should be tidy and the wall needs solid blocking to carry the weight.
  • Laundry and utility sinks: deep tubs on legs or in a cabinet, often in a basement, where the height of the nearest drain decides how easily the sink can be connected.

Coordinating a new sink with the countertop, cabinet and faucet

With a new countertop, the sink is chosen first, not last. The fabricator cuts the opening from the actual sink or its template, and an undermount bowl is usually mounted while the countertop is installed, before the plumber comes back to connect it. Faucet holes are drilled at the same stage, so settle on a single-hole faucet or a widespread set, a separate sprayer, a soap dispenser or a filtered-water tap before the counter is made.

Check the cabinet too. The sink base has to hold the bowl with room left for the drain, a disposal and the supply lines, and a deep or double bowl can leave very little space for the trap or a pull-out bin. When only the sink is changing in an existing counter, the new one has to match or cover the old cut-out; a plumber can tell you whether a different size or style will fit without new counter work.

Sink drains, P-traps and venting: why an old S-trap gets replaced

Every sink drains through a trap, the curved section of pipe that holds a little water to keep sewer gas out of the room. Under a sink this is a P-trap: the bend holds its water seal, and the trap arm runs sideways into the wall, where the drain ties into a vent that lets air in behind the flowing water. Without that air, water rushing down the pipe can pull the seal out of the trap, and you start to hear gurgling or smell the sewer.

Older homes sometimes have an S-trap, where the pipe loops down through the floor with no vent close by. It can siphon itself dry each time the sink empties, and where the plumbing code prohibits it, which is the usual case for new work, a plumber replacing the sink will convert it to a vented P-trap. On an island, or anywhere a wall vent is out of reach, ask the plumber which venting method the local code accepts before the layout is final.

Shut-off valves and supply lines under a new sink

A sink replacement is the right moment to deal with what feeds it. Each supply pipe should end in its own shut-off valve, one for hot and one for cold, so the sink can be isolated without turning off the whole house. Stiff or corroded multi-turn valves are worth replacing with quarter-turn valves while the cabinet is empty, and new braided supply lines should reach the faucet without stretching or kinking.

Kitchen sinks often feed more than the faucet: a dishwasher, a refrigerator water line or a filtered-water tap. A valve with a second outlet gives each appliance its own shut-off. In a laundry room, the sink usually sits beside the washer's valves, and a water alarm on the floor beneath them is a simple safeguard against an overflow or a burst hose.

Dishwasher and garbage disposal connections: getting the kitchen sink hookups right

A garbage disposal mounts to the sink's drain opening and grinds scraps before they go down the pipe, so it needs cabinet space, a drain layout that sends its discharge into the vented trap, and an electrical connection that an electrician should install. On a septic system, think twice: Quebec's good-practice guide for septic owners warns that a food waste disposer adds load to the tank and can mean more frequent pumping, and suggests composting scraps or putting them in the garbage instead.

On municipal sewers, a disposal still isn't a route for fats, oils and grease. The City of Toronto explains that grease poured down a sink cools, hardens and sticks to the inside of sewer pipes; it recommends letting grease harden and scraping it into the organics bin, and using a strainer in the sink to catch food scraps.

  • Dishwasher drain hose: it needs a high loop under the counter, or an air gap where the local code calls for one, so dirty sink water can't flow back into the dishwasher.
  • Disposal inlet: on a new disposal, the knockout plug in the dishwasher inlet has to be removed before the hose is connected, or the dishwasher won't drain.
  • Dishwasher supply: its own shut-off or a dual-outlet valve, with a supply line long enough to slide the machine out for service.
  • Leak check: once everything is connected, the sink, the disposal and a dishwasher drain are run while every joint in the cabinet is watched.

Permits for moving or adding a sink, and who does the work

Replacing a sink in the same place, on the same drain and supply, is generally treated as a fixture replacement. Moving a sink, adding one in an island, a bar or a basement, or running new drain and vent piping changes the plumbing system, and many municipalities require a permit and an inspection for that; check with yours before the walls or floor are closed up.

Quebec reserves plumbing work for holders of the plumbing licence issued by the Régie du bâtiment du Québec, which contractors obtain through the CMMTQ. In other provinces, the provincial licensing body and the municipality set the rules. The wiring for a disposal, an instant hot-water tap or under-cabinet lighting is electrical work for a licensed electrician.

Sink Installation: frequently asked questions

Can I replace a drop-in sink with an undermount sink?

Only if the countertop allows it. An undermount sink needs a solid surface with a finished edge around the opening, so it works with stone, quartz or solid-surface counters but not standard laminate. In an existing stone counter, the opening has to be recut and polished to suit the new bowl, which is a job for the countertop fabricator.

Who installs an undermount sink, the plumber or the countertop installer?

Usually the countertop fabricator or installer mounts it, since it has to be bonded and clipped to the stone. The plumber then connects the faucet, drain, disposal and dishwasher. Agree on who does what before the counter arrives, so the sink isn't left sitting unmounted.

Should I replace the faucet when I replace the sink?

It's often worth it. The faucet has to suit the new sink's holes or deck, and mounting it on the sink before the sink goes in is much easier than working upside down in the cabinet afterwards. An old faucet in good shape can be reused if it fits, but fresh supply lines are a sensible addition either way.

Why does my new sink gurgle or smell?

Gurgling as the sink empties, or a sewer smell under the cabinet, usually means the trap is losing its water seal: the vent may be missing or blocked, the trap arm may be too long or badly pitched, or a slip joint may be loose. A plumber can check the connection behind the wall as well as the trap itself.

Can a laundry sink go in a basement with no drain nearby?

Often, yes. If there is no drain low enough to run to by gravity, a small pump can lift the water to the house drain. The sink still drains through a trap that needs venting, so have a plumber lay out the drain, the vent and the pump together, and ask whether the work needs a permit.

Sources

  1. City of Toronto: What not to flush or pour down the drain
  2. Quebec Ministry of the Environment: Good practice guide for owners of a home served by a septic system
  3. Régie du bâtiment du Québec: Plumbing licence

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of sink installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of problem and how easy it is to find
  • Access to pipes behind walls, under floors or underground
  • Parts and fixtures chosen
  • Age and material of the existing pipes
  • Emergency, evening or weekend service
  • Permits and inspections, where required

How to compare plumbers before you hire

  • Hire a plumber who is licensed for this work in your province, especially for gas water heaters, sewer lines and new plumbing.
  • Ask whether they charge a flat rate or by the hour, and what the call-out fee covers.
  • For leaks and drain problems, choose someone who explains the cause and doesn't only clear the symptom.
  • Get the scope in writing for larger jobs such as a water heater, sewer repair or re-piping.
  • If it's urgent, ask how soon they can arrive and whether after-hours rates apply.

Questions to ask plumbers before you hire

  • Are you licensed for plumbing work in my province?
  • Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour, and is there a call-out fee?
  • What do you think is causing the problem?
  • Will this work need a permit or an inspection, and who will arrange it?
  • Will you need to open walls, floors or the yard to reach the problem?
  • What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?

When to call a pro for sink installation

  • An active leak: shut off the main water valve if you can reach it safely, then call a plumber.
  • Sewage backing up into drains or the basement
  • No hot water, or water pooling around the water heater
  • Pipes that may have frozen during a cold snap

Sink installation permits and local rules

Some sink installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

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