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Sewer Repair

Sewer Repair near you

Repair broken or backed-up sewer and drain lines. Tell us about your sewer repair project and we’ll help you find local plumbers who serve your area.

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This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
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The sewer lateral is the buried pipe that carries everything leaving the house, from toilets, sinks, showers and the laundry, to the municipal sewer under the street. When it cracks, sags, separates at a joint or fills with roots, wastewater slows down, backs up through the lowest drain in the house or leaks into the soil around it. Sewer repair means finding the fault, deciding how much of the pipe needs work and fixing it, either from inside the pipe or by digging.

The problem is common in older Canadian neighbourhoods, where laterals laid decades ago in clay, cast iron or fibre pipe now sit among mature trees and shifting soil. Frost, heavy vehicles over the line and settling after nearby construction can all move a pipe that was once straight. Because the pipe is out of sight, most jobs start with a camera inspection that shows where the damage is and what it looks like.

Part of the lateral usually belongs to the city and part to the homeowner, so an early question is who is responsible for the section that failed. The answer, the repair method and the permits all depend on where the damage sits, and camera footage makes each of those decisions easier.

Signs of a damaged or blocked sewer line

One slow sink usually points to a clog in that fixture's own drain. A problem in the lateral shows up across the whole house, because every fixture shares that last stretch of pipe, and it tends to be worst at the lowest opening, typically the basement floor drain.

  • Several fixtures drain slowly at the same time, on different floors or in different rooms.
  • Toilets gurgle or bubble when a sink drains or the washing machine empties.
  • Water or sewage comes up through the basement floor drain or a lower-level shower when fixtures upstairs are used.
  • A sewage smell lingers in the basement or around the yard, even after the drains have been cleaned.
  • A strip of lawn over the pipe's route stays soggy, sinks or grows noticeably greener than the rest of the yard.
  • Blockages come back within weeks or months after the main line has been cleared.

Sewer camera inspection: how the problem is located

A plumber or drain contractor pushes a waterproof camera on a flexible rod into the line, usually through a cleanout on the main drain, and watches a monitor as it travels toward the street. The footage shows roots coming through joints, cracks, broken sections, sags where water sits, offset joints and debris. Many cameras also carry a transmitter in the head, so the operator can trace it from the surface and mark the location and depth of each defect on the lawn or driveway.

A fully blocked line often has to be opened first so the camera can get through. Ask for a copy of the recording, with the distance from the house noted for each defect: it lets you compare quotes on the same information and shows whether the damage is on your side of the property line.

Tree roots in sewer lines and other common causes of damage

Roots seek out moisture, and a sewer pipe with loose joints or hairline cracks gives off exactly that. The City of Toronto notes that roots from nearby trees can grow into the sewer pipe and cause holes and blockages. Once inside, fine roots form a mat that catches grease, paper and waste, and as they thicken they widen the openings they came through. Cutting them out restores flow for a while, but they generally return until the pipe itself is sealed or replaced.

  • Roots entering through joints or cracks, especially in older clay pipe made of many short sections.
  • A belly, or low spot, where the pipe has settled and water and solids collect.
  • Offset or separated joints caused by frost, soil movement or settling after nearby digging.
  • Corrosion and scale inside older cast-iron pipe, which narrow the passage and eventually let it crack.
  • A collapsed or crushed section, sometimes under a driveway or where heavy equipment once drove.

Older sewer pipe materials: clay, cast iron and fibre pipe

The camera usually reveals what the lateral is made of, and sometimes shows that the material changes partway along, where an earlier repair was made. That matters for the repair: some methods suit a pipe that is still round and sound between defects, while a line that is flattening or crumbling along its length is generally a candidate for replacement.

  • Vitrified clay: it stands up well to wastewater, but it was laid in short sections whose joints are the usual entry point for roots, and it is brittle enough to crack when the ground shifts.
  • Cast iron: strong and common in older homes, but it corrodes from the inside over time, building up scale that narrows the pipe until it cracks or rusts through.
  • Bituminous fibre pipe, often called Orangeburg pipe: made of wood fibre bound with tar, it turns up in some older homes and tends to soften, deform and lose its round shape as it ages.
  • Plastic (PVC or ABS): the usual choice for replacement sections and new laterals, with long lengths and tight joints that give roots fewer ways in.

Sewer line repair methods: spot repair, relining, pipe bursting or excavation

The right method depends on how much of the pipe is damaged, its material and shape, how deep it runs and what sits on top of it. Trenchless methods usually spare lawns, driveways and landscaping, but they don't suit every line, and a good contractor explains why one approach fits yours.

  • Spot repair: a single cracked or root-damaged section is exposed with a small excavation and replaced, or sealed from inside with a short liner, leaving the rest of the pipe as it is.
  • Relining: a resin-soaked liner is pulled or inverted into the existing pipe and cured, forming a new pipe inside the old one; the line must be cleaned and still hold its shape, and the liner follows the existing slope, low spots included.
  • Pipe bursting: a bursting head pulls a new pipe through the old one, pushing the broken fragments out into the soil, with digging needed only at each end.
  • Open-trench excavation: the lateral is dug up and replaced along its length, the only option for some collapsed or badly sagging lines and sometimes the simplest where the pipe is shallow and nothing costly sits above it.

Sewer lateral ownership, permits and utility locates

Responsibility for the lateral is usually split at the property line. In Toronto, for example, the City owns the sewer line from the main on the street to the property line, and the owner owns the part that runs from the property line into the home. When a backup is reported, Toronto Water checks the nearby sewers and can inspect the service line by camera; if the blockage is on the private side, the owner is responsible for the repair and is advised to call a licensed plumber. Other municipalities may divide it differently, so check with yours before paying for work that could fall on the city's side.

Replacing or digging up a lateral generally calls for a municipal permit, and work on the public side, under the sidewalk or street, is usually done or authorized by the municipality. Buried utilities must be marked first: in Quebec, the Régie du bâtiment du Québec calls on contractors to submit a free Info-Excavation locate request no less than 4 business days before starting, and in Ontario, Ontario One Call locates cost nothing and the law requires them at least 5 business days before digging. Excavation belongs with a qualified contractor, never a do-it-yourself project: trench walls can cave in and a gas line may run close to the sewer.

Sewer Repair: frequently asked questions

Who pays to repair the sewer line between my house and the street?

It usually depends on where the damage is: the homeowner is responsible for the private section and the municipality for the section on public land. In Toronto, the split is at the property line. A camera inspection that measures the distance to the defect shows which side it's on; if it looks like the city's section, contact your municipality before hiring anyone.

Can a sewer line be repaired without digging up the yard?

Often, yes. Relining and pipe bursting need little or no digging along the pipe, with access through a cleanout or small pits at each end. They don't suit every line, though: a collapsed pipe or a deep sag generally has to be dug up and replaced.

How do I know if tree roots are in my sewer line?

Repeated backups, gurgling toilets and slow drains throughout the house, in a home with mature trees near the sewer route, are a strong hint. Only a camera inspection confirms it, showing where the roots get in and how far they've spread.

Is a sewer camera inspection worth it before buying an older house?

It can be, especially if the house is old, has large trees out front or has had backups before. A general home inspection often doesn't cover the sewer lateral, so a separate camera inspection tells you about a potentially costly repair before you commit.

Sources

  1. City of Toronto: Blocked or backed-up basement drain
  2. Régie du bâtiment du Québec: Excavation work
  3. Ontario One Call: Homeowners

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of sewer repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of problem and how easy it is to find
  • Access to pipes behind walls, under floors or underground
  • Parts and fixtures chosen
  • Age and material of the existing pipes
  • Emergency, evening or weekend service
  • Permits and inspections, where required

How to compare plumbers before you hire

  • Hire a plumber who is licensed for this work in your province, especially for gas water heaters, sewer lines and new plumbing.
  • Ask whether they charge a flat rate or by the hour, and what the call-out fee covers.
  • For leaks and drain problems, choose someone who explains the cause and doesn't only clear the symptom.
  • Get the scope in writing for larger jobs such as a water heater, sewer repair or re-piping.
  • If it's urgent, ask how soon they can arrive and whether after-hours rates apply.

Questions to ask plumbers before you hire

  • Are you licensed for plumbing work in my province?
  • Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour, and is there a call-out fee?
  • What do you think is causing the problem?
  • Will this work need a permit or an inspection, and who will arrange it?
  • Will you need to open walls, floors or the yard to reach the problem?
  • What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?

When to call a pro for sewer repair

  • An active leak: shut off the main water valve if you can reach it safely, then call a plumber.
  • Sewage backing up into drains or the basement
  • No hot water, or water pooling around the water heater
  • Pipes that may have frozen during a cold snap

Sewer repair permits and local rules

Some sewer repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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