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Siding is the outer skin of your walls: the vinyl, fibre cement, wood, metal, brick or stucco that gives the house its look and takes the first hit from rain, wind and sun. It isn't the only thing keeping water out, though. Behind it, a weather barrier, flashing over windows and doors, and a small gap that lets water drain and the wall dry out matter just as much, and they are often what fails first on an older house.

Siding contractors put cladding on additions and new homes, replace worn or damaged siding on existing houses and repair individual boards, panels or corners after a storm or an accident. A full re-siding job is also the best chance in years to look at the wall itself: replacing damaged sheathing, correcting the flashing around openings, improving the air barrier and, in many cases, adding insulation to the outside of the wall.

The right material depends on your budget, the style of the street, how much upkeep you're willing to do and, in some neighbourhoods, what the municipality will allow. This page compares the main siding materials, lists the signs that siding is failing, explains how moisture is handled behind it and walks through a typical project, including the rules that apply in heritage areas.

Siding materials for Canadian homes: vinyl, fibre cement, engineered wood, metal, brick and stucco

Wood clapboard and cedar shingles are still common on older and rural homes, and they can be restored or replaced like for like, which often matters in heritage areas.

Vinyl siding: the most widespread choice on Canadian homes, light and low-maintenance, but it can crack on impact in the cold and needs room to expand and contract as temperatures swing.
Fibre cement: boards or panels made of cement and wood fibre that resist fire, rot and insects, heavier to handle and either painted on site or finished at the factory.
Engineered wood: wood strands bonded with resins and pressed into boards, lighter than fibre cement, with a wood look that depends on sealed cut ends and careful installation.
Aluminum and steel: durable metal panels and lap siding that won't rot, although aluminum dents easily and older finishes can chalk and fade.
Brick veneer: a single layer of brick tied to the wall with an air space behind it, very long-lasting but reliant on weep holes and flashing to let water out.
Stucco: cement-based or acrylic coatings, often part of a system with insulation behind them, that need careful detailing where they meet windows, the roof and the ground.

Signs your siding needs replacing

Boards or panels that are cracked, warped, buckled or coming loose after a windstorm.
Soft, swollen or rotten spots, especially near the ground, under windows and where a roof meets a wall.
Paint that blisters or peels again soon after repainting, a sign of moisture coming from behind.
Stains, mould or peeling paint on the inside face of exterior walls, or wallpaper lifting on those walls.
Faded or chalky vinyl or aluminum whose colour can no longer be matched for spot repairs.
Brick with crumbling mortar or white salt deposits, or stucco with cracks, bulges or damp patches.
Gaps at corners, around windows and along trim that let in wind-driven rain or insects.

Moisture management behind siding: the weather barrier and the air barrier

No siding is completely waterproof. Wind pushes rain through joints, around trim and behind corner pieces, so a well-built wall is designed to deal with the water that gets past. A weather-resistant membrane over the sheathing sheds that water downward, flashing sends it back out at the top of every window and door, and a drainage gap or furring strips behind many types of siding let it run out and the wall dry. Brick veneer works the same way, with an air space and weep holes at the bottom.

The air barrier has a different job: it keeps warm, humid indoor air from leaking into the wall, where it can condense on cold surfaces in winter. Natural Resources Canada advises dealing with moisture or structural problems, such as stains, mould, rot or cracks, before insulating, and says it's best to remove the old siding and upgrade the wall, air barrier included, before adding insulation under new siding. A good siding contractor looks at all of these layers, not just the finish.

Siding repair or full re-siding: how to choose

Repair when the damage is limited to a few boards or panels hit by hail, a ball or a ladder, and matching pieces are available.
Repair when a leak comes from a single detail, such as missing flashing over a window, and the wall behind is dry and sound.
Consider re-siding when the material has reached the end of its life on most walls: brittle, faded, warped or rotting.
Consider re-siding when moisture problems appear on several walls, since the membrane and flashing behind will need to be redone.
Consider re-siding when you plan to add exterior insulation or replace windows, so the new details fit together.
Keep in mind that new vinyl or aluminum rarely matches siding that has weathered for years; ask whether pieces can be taken from a less visible wall.

How a siding replacement project unfolds

Assessment: the contractor inspects the siding, trim and flashing and looks for signs of moisture inside and out.
Choices and permits: material, profile, colour and trim, along with any permit or heritage approval, settled before dates are set.
Removal: the old siding comes off wall by wall, and the sheathing underneath is checked for rot, damage and gaps.
Wall repairs and upgrades: damaged sheathing replaced, a new weather barrier installed and, if planned, exterior insulation added.
Openings: flashing and trim around windows, doors, vents and light fixtures detailed so water is sent outward.
Installation: starter strips, corners and siding put up to the manufacturer's instructions, with the right clearances and fasteners for the material.
Final check: caulking, trim and ventilation openings inspected, then old material and nails cleared from the site.

Siding permits and rules in heritage areas

Many municipalities require a permit to replace exterior cladding, especially when the material, the colour or the look of the facade changes, and some restrict the materials allowed on certain streets. Check with your city or town before signing, and make sure the contract says who applies for the permit.

In Quebec, heritage protection adds a step. Under the Cultural Heritage Act, you need authorization from the provincial culture ministry before repairing or changing the appearance of a classified building, or of a building in a declared or classified heritage site or a protection area. For buildings and sites cited by a municipality, the municipality sets and enforces the rules. Work done without the required authorization can lead to a fine or an order to restore the property, so confirm your building's status early.

Elsewhere in Canada, heritage designations and conservation districts are handled by provinces and municipalities. Ask your municipality whether your home is designated or sits in a protected area before choosing a material.

Caring for siding through Canadian winters

Walk around the house each spring and look from the ground for cracked, loose or missing pieces left by winter storms.
Avoid leaving snow piled against the siding for long stretches, and keep soil and mulch off the bottom row.
Make sure gutters and downspouts carry water away instead of spilling it down the walls.
Have the caulking around windows, doors and wall penetrations checked and renewed as it dries out and cracks.
Keep barbecues and other heat sources well away from vinyl, which can warp from heat.
Wash off dirt and mildew gently with a soft brush and a garden hose, since a pressure washer can drive water behind the siding.

Siding: frequently asked questions

Can new siding go over old siding?

It's sometimes done, but removing the old siding lets the contractor see and fix the sheathing, weather barrier and flashing underneath. Natural Resources Canada recommends taking the existing siding off and upgrading the wall before adding insulation under new siding.

Which siding holds up best in a Canadian climate?

Brick veneer, fibre cement and good-quality metal siding are known for long service when well installed, and vinyl performs well with little upkeep. Installation and moisture management matter more than the material, so ask for the manufacturer's warranty terms in writing.

Is it worth adding insulation when I replace my siding?

Often, yes, since the outside of the walls is already open. Rigid insulation under new siding can cut heat loss, but it makes the wall thicker around windows and doors, so the trim and flashing have to be planned from the start.

Do I need a permit to replace my siding?

It depends on your municipality. Many require one, especially when the material or the look changes. In Quebec heritage sites and protection areas, you also need authorization before changing a building's appearance.

Can I replace just a few pieces of vinyl siding?

Yes. Damaged panels can be unlocked and swapped. The hard part is matching a colour that has faded, so a contractor may move pieces from a less visible wall to the front and put the new ones out of sight.

What is the best season for siding work?

Spring through fall is typical. Vinyl gets brittle in deep cold and many sealants and paints need mild temperatures, although some work carries on in winter with the right precautions.

Sources

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of siding

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

Size of the area and the height of the walls
Material chosen
Removal of the existing material
Repairs needed to what's underneath
Access, including ladders, scaffolding or lifts
Trim, corners and openings to work around

How to compare siding contractors before you hire

Choose a pro who works regularly with your material, whether that's siding, stucco, brick, eavestroughs or soffit and fascia.
Ask them to explain what's causing the problem, not only how they'll cover it up.
Get a written quote that separates removal, repairs to what's underneath and the new finish.
For chimney and masonry work, look for someone with specific masonry experience rather than a general handyman.
Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or scaffolding.

Questions to ask siding contractors before you hire

What do you think is causing the damage, and will your work fix the cause?
Will you check the sheathing or wall underneath once the old material is off?
How will you handle water management, such as flashing, caulking and drainage?
Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

When to call a pro for siding

Gutters that overflow, pull away from the house or drain next to the foundation
Loose, cracked or bulging siding, stucco or brick
Crumbling mortar or loose bricks on a chimney

Siding permits and local rules

Some siding work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

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