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A patio turns part of the yard into an outdoor room at ground level, with space for a dining table, a barbecue, lounge chairs or a fire table. Patio contractors and landscapers build them from poured concrete, interlocking pavers, natural stone slabs and flagstone, or compacted gravel, and on some lots a low deck-level platform makes more sense. The right choice depends on the style of the house, the slope of the yard, the height of the back door and how much upkeep you're prepared to do.

Whatever the surface, a patio in Canada succeeds or fails on what lies beneath it. The base has to drain, the finished surface has to carry water away from the house, and the whole thing has to ride out frost without turning into a tripping hazard. Planning the layout around furniture, sun, shade, lighting and the route from the kitchen matters as much as picking a colour or a pattern.

This page compares patio materials, explains the base, drainage and frost, and covers layout, lighting and power, permits and locates, and seasonal care. The concrete patios and interlocking pages go deeper on those two surfaces.

Patio materials compared: concrete, pavers, natural stone, gravel and deck-level platforms

No single surface wins in every yard: each one looks, feels underfoot, handles frost and ages differently.

  • Poured concrete: one continuous surface that sweeps clean and takes a broom, stamped or coloured finish; cracks are hard to hide, so the joint layout and base decide how it ages, as the concrete patios page explains.
  • Interlocking pavers: separate units over a compacted base that flex slightly with frost and can be lifted and relaid after settling, with joints that need topping up; see the interlocking page.
  • Natural stone: flagstone or cut slabs with a character no manufactured product copies; pieces vary in thickness, so an experienced installer beds each one level and firm.
  • Gravel or crushed stone: the simplest surface, free-draining and relaxed in style, but chair legs sink, it spreads without a solid edge, and it's awkward to shovel.
  • Deck-level platform: a low wood or composite deck on footings, often the better answer where the yard slopes or the door sits well above the ground; the deck construction page covers its footings and permits.

Patio base and drainage: excavation, compacted stone and a slope away from the house

Every hard patio rests on the same idea: dig out the topsoil and anything soft or organic, then build a bed of crushed stone compacted in layers so it stays firm and lets water through. Pavers, flagstone and slabs sit on a thin levelling layer over that base, while concrete is poured directly on it. The right depth depends on the soil, how wet the site stays and what the patio will carry. Because the base is buried within a day or two, ask to see it before the surface goes down, or ask the crew for photos.

The finished surface needs a gentle fall away from the foundation, toward lawn, a garden bed, a swale or a drain, so rain and meltwater never pool against the wall or spill into a window well. A patio that meets the house should sit far enough below the door sill that water and drifting snow stay outside. Redirect any downspout that would empty onto the patio before construction starts, or it will lay down a sheet of ice every winter. If the lot already drains toward the house, the grading gets corrected first.

Frost heave, sinking and tilting: why patios move and how to prevent it

Frost is the main reason patios fail in Canadian yards. Wet, fine-grained soils such as clay and silt swell as the water in them freezes, pushing up whatever sits above, then settle unevenly as they thaw. A rigid slab can crack when that happens, while pavers and stones rise and fall one by one and end up out of line. The defence is mostly about water: a free-draining base, a surface that sheds rain, and no low spot or downspout feeding water underneath.

  • Backfill next to the house: soil placed against a newer foundation keeps settling for years, so a patio built over it without thorough compaction often sinks toward the wall.
  • Trees: roots lift slabs and pavers, and a stump left to rot under a patio leaves a hollow that settles later.
  • Concentrated weight: hot tubs, stone fireplaces and outdoor kitchens need a base, and sometimes footings, designed around them, so mention them before the plan is drawn.
  • Spring check: once the ground thaws, look for rocking stones, raised edges and new puddles, and fix them before someone trips.

Planning a patio layout: furniture, shade, lighting and outdoor power

A patio feels right when it's sized for what actually happens on it. Place the table with the chairs pushed back, the barbecue with clearance from siding and railings, and the lounge chairs where the evening sun reaches them, then outline the area with stakes and string and try the furniture in place. Consider the route from the kitchen door, the direction of the wind, and whether neighbouring windows look straight down on the space.

  • Shade: a pergola, a shade sail, a tree or a heavy umbrella base can be planned from the start, and anything with posts needs its footings placed before the surface goes down; see the pergolas page.
  • Lighting: low-voltage step and path lights, or fixtures on the house wall, make the patio usable after dark and mark every change in level.
  • Outlets and circuits: the Electrical Safety Authority advises GFCI protection on outdoor outlets and a Licensed Electrical Contractor for permanent outdoor wiring, and in Quebec electrical contractors hold a licence through the CMEQ.
  • Buried services: conduit for wiring, a sleeve for a future gas line to the barbecue and irrigation pipes go in before the patio, because cutting through it later is messy; any gas connection belongs to a licensed gas fitter.

Do patios need a permit? Ground-level patios, raised platforms, covered patios and locates

A patio laid at ground level rarely needs a building permit, but that's a municipal decision and the details matter. Toronto's permit guidance, for example, requires a permit for a deck more than 60 cm above the ground, while an uncovered platform below that height that isn't part of a required exit needs none, provided it complies with zoning. The same guidance requires a permit to enclose an existing deck, porch or patio of any size, so adding walls, a roof or screens can change the answer.

Zoning applies even when no permit does. Municipalities commonly limit how much of a lot, and especially a front yard, may be hard-surfaced, set distances from lot lines and expect runoff to stay on your property. Where bylaws are set by boroughs, as in Montreal, ask the borough's permit office before the design is final.

  • Before any digging, have public lines marked through Ontario One Call in Ontario or Info-Excavation in Quebec, and hire a private locator for lines you own, such as power to a shed.
  • A covered patio with posts and a roof is a structure in its own right, so ask about footings, snow load and a permit; the outdoor structures page covers roofed options.

Patio care through the seasons: cleaning, joints, sealing and winter

  • Spring: sweep away winter grit, rinse at low pressure, and reset any stones or pavers that frost has lifted.
  • Summer: pull weeds from the joints while they're small, and move planters now and then so they don't stain the surface or trap water.
  • Fall: clear leaves and fallen berries before they stain, and store cushions and fabric covers somewhere dry.
  • Winter: use a plastic shovel, go easy on de-icing salt, and don't pile snow from the driveway onto the patio or against the house.
  • Sealing: concrete, pavers and some natural stone can be sealed against stains, but choose a product that won't make the surface slippery and follow its label for recoating.

Patios: frequently asked questions

What is the best patio material for a cold climate?

Concrete, pavers, natural stone and gravel can all last through Canadian winters when the base drains and the surface sheds water. Pavers and stone tolerate slight frost movement and are easy to repair, concrete gives a smooth continuous floor, and gravel is the simplest but least formal.

Do I need a permit for a ground-level patio?

Often not, but check with your municipality. Toronto, for instance, exempts an uncovered platform less than 60 cm above the ground that meets zoning, but enclosing a patio needs a permit. Limits on paved area and setbacks can apply either way.

How much should a patio slope away from the house?

Enough that water runs off rather than pooling, and always away from the foundation. The contractor sets the fall to suit the material and the site; check it with a level before the surface goes down, since it's hard to correct afterwards.

Is a patio or a deck better for my yard?

A patio suits fairly flat ground and a door close to grade; a deck handles slopes and doors well above the yard. A low deck-level platform, or a patio with a few steps up to the door, can bridge the difference.

How do I stop weeds between patio stones?

Weeds root in the grit and organic debris that collect in the joints. Sweep regularly, keep joints full, and consider polymeric sand on pavers; flagstone set in soil or gravel will always need some weeding.

Sources

  1. When do I need a building permit? — City of Toronto
  2. Outdoor safety — Electrical Safety Authority
  3. A licence is mandatory — Corporation des maîtres électriciens du Québec
  4. Homeowners: public utility locates — Ontario One Call
  5. Excavation work — Régie du bâtiment du Québec

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of patio

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and thickness of the area
  • Removal of the old surface
  • Excavation and base preparation
  • Finish, colour or pattern
  • Access for equipment and trucks
  • Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges

How to compare patio contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
  • Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
  • Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
  • Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
  • Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.

Questions to ask patio contractors before you hire

  • How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
  • Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
  • How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
  • What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?

When to call a pro for patio

  • Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
  • Water pooling against the foundation after rain
  • Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways

Patio permits and local rules

Some patio work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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