Masonry
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Brick, block and stone work, including repairs and parging. Tell us about your masonry project and we’ll help you find local masons who serve your area.
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Masonry is the brick, stone and concrete block that give so many Canadian homes their character: the brick fronts of Montreal plexes and of semi-detached houses in Toronto, the stone foundations of old farmhouses, the block walls of postwar bungalows and the parged band of foundation just above the ground. Masonry lasts a very long time when it stays reasonably dry and wears quickly when it doesn't. Water soaks into brick and mortar, freezes, expands and slowly pushes the material apart, which is why most masonry repairs trace back to a moisture problem.
Masons repoint worn mortar joints, replace cracked or flaking bricks, rebuild sections of wall, parapets and steps, parge foundation walls and repair stone and block. Homeowners call them when mortar crumbles out of the joints, brick faces break off after winter, white deposits keep coming back or a wall starts to crack or bulge. On older buildings, the choice of materials matters as much as the workmanship, because a mortar that is too hard can damage the brick it was supposed to protect.
This page explains the common types of masonry work, how freeze–thaw damage develops, why old brick often needs a softer lime-based mortar, how a repointing job unfolds and which rules can apply to heritage buildings. Chimneys have their own page on chimney repair, and cracked or leaking foundations are covered on the foundation pages.
Types of masonry work: repointing, brick replacement, parging and stonework
- Repointing (often called tuckpointing): raking out deteriorated mortar to sound material and refilling the joints with a mortar that suits the wall.
- Brick replacement: cutting out cracked or spalled bricks and setting new or salvaged units chosen to match in size, colour and texture.
- Wall rebuilding: taking down and relaying sections that bulge, lean or have lost their ties to the structure behind, including the parapets of plexes.
- Parging: the cement- or lime-based coating on the exposed part of a foundation wall, patched or redone when it cracks or falls off.
- Stone masonry: repointing and resetting fieldstone foundations, stone walls and sills, which often need specially formulated mortars.
- Steps, porches and low retaining walls: rebuilding masonry that frost and poor drainage have pushed out of place, with an engineer's design for taller retaining walls.
- Chimneys: crowns, flashing and liners are covered on the chimney repair page.
Freeze–thaw damage to brick and stone: spalling, efflorescence and failing mortar
Water is the main enemy of masonry. It comes from rain driven against the wall, overflowing gutters and leaky downspouts, snow piled against the base, failed sills and parapet caps, and moisture wicking up from the ground. Once inside the brick or the joints, it freezes and thaws again and again over a Canadian winter, and each cycle opens cracks a little further. Walls that were insulated from the inside without regard for how they dry can stay colder and wetter, which adds to the risk.
- Spalling: the face of a brick or stone scaling, shattering or breaking away, usually where water collects or lingers longest.
- Efflorescence: white, powdery salt deposits left as water travels through the masonry and evaporates, harmless in itself but a sign of moisture.
- Eroded or cracked mortar joints: sandy, recessed or missing mortar that lets even more water in.
- Stair-step cracks following the joints, which can point to movement in the foundation or the wall.
- Bulging or leaning sections, especially at the parapets and upper walls of older plexes, which call for a prompt assessment.
- Rust stains or cracks around steel lintels over windows and doors, where corroding steel expands and pushes the brick out.
Matching mortar to old brick: why softer lime mortars matter
Mortar is meant to be the weaker, sacrificial part of a wall. Older brick and stone were usually laid in soft lime-based mortar that tolerates a little movement and lets moisture escape through the joints. Repointing that wall with a hard, cement-rich modern mortar reverses the roles: water and stress end up in the brick, whose faces can break off along the new joints. A careful mason looks at the existing mortar, sometimes has a sample analyzed, and chooses a mix that is compatible in strength, porosity, colour and texture, then matches the width and profile of the original joints.
For heritage work, the reference in Canada is the Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada, administered by Parks Canada and developed through a federal, provincial and territorial collaboration as the benchmark for conservation practice. It includes guidance specific to masonry and is a useful read for owners of older brick and stone buildings. Ask a mason which heritage buildings they have worked on and how they select repair mortars.
How repointing and brick repair are done, and why pros handle the scaffolding
Most wall repairs above the ground floor require scaffolding or a lift, fall protection and a crew used to working at height, especially on the tall brick facades of plexes. Setting up and securing that equipment is part of the mason's job, not something to rent for a weekend.
Cutting out mortar and brick with grinders and saws raises fine dust that contains crystalline silica. The Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety warns that breathing this dust can seriously damage the lungs and lists crystalline silica as a known cause of lung cancer. Expect the crew to use dust-extracting or water-fed tools, respiratory protection and tarps, and keep windows closed and children and pets away from the work area.
- Assessing the wall, the source of the damage and the existing mortar, sometimes with a sample sent for analysis.
- Setting up scaffolding and protecting the ground, plants and windows below.
- Raking the joints back to sound mortar, without widening them or chipping the edges of the brick.
- Cutting out damaged bricks and setting matching replacements.
- Packing new mortar in layers and tooling it to match the original joint profile.
- Protecting fresh mortar from sun, wind, rain and frost while it cures, which is why masons prefer mild weather.
- Cleaning with gentle methods, since harsh acids or abrasive blasting can damage old brick.
Masonry permits, heritage approval and RBQ licences
In Quebec, a masonry contractor needs an RBQ licence with the right subclass: 4.1 for masonry structures, or 4.2 for non-structural masonry, marble and ceramics. Look the licence up in the RBQ's registry before you sign.
Like-for-like repairs and repointing often need no permit, but rebuilding a wall, changing openings or altering a facade usually does, and heritage status adds another layer. In Quebec, the government's page on heritage work explains that classified properties and sites need authorization from the Ministry of Culture before they are altered, restored or repaired, while controls on cited properties and sites are the responsibility of municipalities. Elsewhere in Canada, heritage designations are handled under provincial laws and municipal by-laws, so ask your city whether your home is designated or sits in a heritage district before choosing materials.
Maintaining brick and stone walls: keeping water out
Most masonry damage can be slowed by controlling water before it reaches the wall. A walk around the house each spring, looking up at parapets, sills and joints with binoculars, catches problems while repairs are still small.
- Keep gutters and downspouts flowing and directed away from the walls and the foundation.
- Make sure the ground slopes away from the house and snow isn't left piled against brick or parging all winter.
- Watch parapet caps, copings and window sills, which shed water off the top of the wall as long as they stay intact.
- Repoint worn joints before water gets behind the brick, instead of waiting for bricks to come loose.
- Be cautious with clear water-repellent sealers: on old masonry they can trap moisture and salts, so ask a mason first.
- Avoid pressure washing or sandblasting brick, which strips the hard outer face and speeds up erosion.
Masonry: frequently asked questions
What is the difference between repointing and tuckpointing?
In everyday use, both mean replacing worn mortar in the joints. Strictly speaking, tuckpointing is a decorative technique that adds a thin line of contrasting mortar to make joints look finer, and it is mostly found on heritage buildings.
Why do my bricks crumble after winter?
Water gets into the brick or the joints, freezes and expands, and repeated cycles break the face away. Find where the water comes from, such as a gutter, a sill, a cap or worn joints, before replacing the damaged bricks.
Is efflorescence on my brick dangerous?
No. The white salts themselves are harmless, but they show that water is moving through the wall. Deal with the source of the moisture; once it's fixed, dry brushing usually removes the deposits.
Can regular cement mortar be used on an old brick house?
It's risky. Older brick is often softer than modern brick, and a hard mortar can force water and stress into it and cause spalling. Ask for a compatible mix, often lime-based, chosen after looking at the existing mortar.
Do I need a permit to repoint my brick?
Often not for like-for-like repairs, but check with your municipality, especially if your home is in a heritage area, where even repairs can require approval.
What is parging, and why does it crack?
Parging is the thin coating on the exposed part of a foundation wall. It cracks and falls off when water gets behind it, when it was applied over a dirty or crumbling surface, or when frost works at it near the ground. A mason removes the loose sections and applies a new coat.
Sources
- Standards and guidelines for the conservation of historic places — Parks Canada
- The Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada — HistoricPlaces.ca
- Doing work on a heritage property or in a heritage site — Gouvernement du Québec
- Silica, quartz — Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety
- Specialized contractor licence subclasses — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
- Check a contractor's licence — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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What affects the cost of masonry
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size of the area and the height of the walls
- Material chosen
- Removal of the existing material
- Repairs needed to what's underneath
- Access, including ladders, scaffolding or lifts
- Trim, corners and openings to work around
How to compare masons before you hire
- Choose a pro who works regularly with your material, whether that's siding, stucco, brick, eavestroughs or soffit and fascia.
- Ask them to explain what's causing the problem, not only how they'll cover it up.
- Get a written quote that separates removal, repairs to what's underneath and the new finish.
- For chimney and masonry work, look for someone with specific masonry experience rather than a general handyman.
- Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or scaffolding.
Questions to ask masons before you hire
- What do you think is causing the damage, and will your work fix the cause?
- Will you check the sheathing or wall underneath once the old material is off?
- How will you handle water management, such as flashing, caulking and drainage?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
When to call a pro for masonry
- Gutters that overflow, pull away from the house or drain next to the foundation
- Loose, cracked or bulging siding, stucco or brick
- Crumbling mortar or loose bricks on a chimney
Masonry permits and local rules
Some masonry work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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