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Most repairs come down to a few worn parts: a rubber washer or seat in older two-handle taps, a cartridge or O-rings in most modern single-handle models, or the hoses and valves that feed the faucet. Knowing which type you have tells you which part is failing, and whether the fix is quick or a sign that the whole faucet should go.
The work also touches everything under the sink: the supply lines, the shut-off valves and the drain. A plumber who replaces a cartridge will usually check those at the same time, since a seized valve or an aging braided hose can cause far more damage than a drip ever will.
Faucet types and how each one leaks: compression, cartridge, ball and ceramic disc
The quickest way to identify a faucet is by its handles and how they move. Two separate handles that you turn several times before the water stops usually mean a compression faucet; a single lever that swings side to side and up and down points to a cartridge, ball or ceramic disc design.
- Compression: a rubber washer is squeezed against a metal seat to stop the water; when the washer hardens or the seat pits, the spout drips, and a leak at the handle usually points to worn packing or an O-ring on the stem.
- Cartridge: a plastic or brass cartridge controls flow and temperature; worn seals inside it make the spout drip, and worn O-rings on the body cause leaks around the base of the spout.
- Ball: a slotted ball with springs and rubber seats sits under the handle; its many small parts wear unevenly, so drips and leaks around the handle become common as these faucets age.
- Ceramic disc: two polished discs slide against each other and resist wear well; when this type leaks, the cause is usually a damaged seal, debris caught between the discs or a cracked disc, and the fix is often a new cartridge.
Signs your faucet needs repair, and how much a drip really wastes
A drip is easy to ignore because each drop is so small, but it adds up. The City of Calgary estimates that one drop per second can waste 2.5 cubic metres of water per month, and a thin stream wastes far more. On a metered supply that shows up on the bill; on a well it means the pump runs more often; and on the hot side it adds to the water heater's workload.
- The spout keeps dripping after the handle is fully closed, or only stops if you force it.
- Water seeps around the handle or pools at the base of the spout each time the tap is used.
- The handle is stiff, grinds, wobbles or no longer stays where you set it.
- Temperature is hard to adjust, or the water jumps from hot to cold on a single-handle faucet.
- The cabinet floor under the sink is damp, warped or stained, or smells musty.
Low flow from a faucet: cleaning the aerator and checking the cartridge
The aerator is the small screen threaded into the tip of the spout. The City of Calgary describes aerators as screens that reduce flow by adding air to the spray, which is how they save water, but their fine mesh also catches scale, sand and bits of pipe debris. When a single faucet suddenly runs weak or sprays sideways, check the aerator first: unscrew it, rinse the screen, soak off any mineral crust in vinegar and put it back with its washer.
If both hot and cold are weak at one faucet with a clean aerator, the cartridge may be clogged with debris, which often happens after work on the water main or a repair that stirred up sediment. Weak flow at every tap points to the main shut-off, the pressure-reducing valve or the supply pipes, which calls for a plumber.
Leaking under the sink: supply lines, compression fittings and the drain trap
Water in the cabinet doesn't always come from the faucet itself. Dry the pipes with a cloth, then run the hot and cold water one at a time and watch where the first drop forms. A leak that appears only while water drains is on the drain side; one that is there even with the faucet closed is on the supply side, which is under constant pressure and can get worse quickly.
- Braided supply lines: the flexible hoses between the shut-off valves and the faucet age, kink or corrode at the crimped ends; replace any that bulge, rust or weep rather than tightening them.
- Compression fittings: the nut and ferrule joining a supply line to its valve can loosen over time, or crack when overtightened.
- Shut-off valves: older multi-turn valves often leak at the stem when they are finally turned after years in one position.
- Faucet base and mounting: a failed gasket or dried-out putty under the faucet lets water from the counter run down into the cabinet.
- Pull-out sprayer hose: the hose inside the cabinet can wear where it rubs, or leak at its quick-connect fitting.
- Drain trap and tailpiece: slip nuts loosen and washers flatten, so the leak shows only when the sink is draining.
Shut-off valves to know before a faucet leak turns into water damage
Every faucet repair starts with the water off, and the City of Calgary advises shutting off the supply and opening the taps to drain them before starting any repair. Most sinks have two small valves in the cabinet, one for hot and one for cold. Find them now and try them while nothing is leaking: a valve that won't turn, or that drips once it has moved, is better replaced during a planned visit than in the middle of a flood.
If a sink has no local valves, or they fail, you need the main shut-off, usually where the water service enters the house, near the meter in the basement or near the pressure tank on a well. Everyone in the household should know where it is. A plumber can add quarter-turn valves under sinks that lack them, which makes every later repair simpler.
Faucet repair or replacement: when a new faucet makes more sense
A drip on a sound faucet is usually a parts job: a washer and seat on a compression tap, or a cartridge on a single-handle model. Repair makes sense when the body is solid, the finish is in good shape and parts are still available, or when the faucet belongs to a matching set you want to keep.
Replacement is the better call when parts can no longer be found, when the body is cracked or corroded, when leaks come back after each repair, or when the finish is pitted beyond cleaning. It is also a chance to fix what never suited you: a pull-down spout for a deep sink, or a single lever that is easier on stiff or arthritic hands.
Hiring a licensed plumber to install a new faucet or fixture
Swapping a cartridge or cleaning an aerator is ordinary upkeep. Moving a sink, adding a fixture, running new supply or drain lines or replacing corroded valves is plumbing work governed by provincial rules, and some municipalities require a permit for it.
In Quebec, plumbing work must be carried out by the holder of the appropriate licence from the Régie du bâtiment du Québec, which plumbing contractors obtain through the CMMTQ; the CMMTQ explains the limited exception for an owner working on the single-family home they live in. Elsewhere, check with the provincial licensing body or your municipality. Whoever does the job, ask for the licence number, and keep the new faucet's installation instructions and warranty papers.
Faucet Repair: frequently asked questions
Why does my faucet still drip after I replaced the washer?
On a compression faucet, the metal seat the washer presses against may be pitted or worn, so even a new washer can't seal; the seat needs to be resurfaced or replaced. On other types, the leak comes from a cartridge or seals rather than a washer, so identify the faucet before buying parts.
Is a dripping faucet an emergency?
Not usually. A drip from the spout can wait for a scheduled repair, even though it wastes water every hour it runs. A leak on the supply side under the sink, a burst supply line or a valve that won't close is different: shut off the water and call a plumber promptly.
Can I replace a faucet cartridge myself?
On many single-handle faucets, yes, provided the shut-off valves work and you can get the exact part for your model. Bring the old cartridge to the store, note which way it sat, and don't force parts that are seized with scale; a plumber has pullers that remove them without damaging the faucet body.
Why is my new faucet's flow weaker than the old one?
Many new faucets are designed to use less water and have a flow-limiting aerator, and debris knocked loose during installation often lodges in that aerator right away. Clean the aerator first; if the flow is still weak, make sure both shut-off valves are fully open.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Reviewed by Zubair Afzal on September 10, 2026. How we write and check our guides