Skip to content
LokalMatch

Blown-In Insulation

Blown-In Insulation near you

Blown-in insulation covers two jobs that share a machine and nothing else. Loose-fill poured or blown onto an open horizontal surface settles under its own weight and is measured in depth. Dense-pack, blown under pressure into a closed wall cavity through a drilled hole, is measured in pounds per cubic foot and is as much an air sealing measure as an insulating one. DOE's Building America guideline is specific about the difference: cellulose should be installed at a recommended density of 3.25 to 4.0 pounds per cubic foot and fiberglass fibers at 1.6 pounds per cubic foot, because the material must reach the required density throughout the entire cavity to reduce the risks of convective looping, settling and air leakage.

Tell us about your blown-in insulation project and we’ll help you find local insulation contractors who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

On this page

Blown-in is also unusually well regulated at the federal level for a building material, which works in a homeowner's favor. The FTC's R-value Rule governs what your installer must put on the receipt, and CPSC's rules at 16 CFR parts 1209 and 1404 govern how cellulose is tested and labeled. Both give you something concrete to check after the crew leaves, which is rare in this trade.

On LokalMatch you describe the space once: attic or walls, what is in there now, the age of the house and your ZIP code. Insulation contractors covering your area receive it and the ones interested contact you. Pros pay for the requests they receive and homeowners pay nothing. LokalMatch does not do the work, does not negotiate prices and does not vet or recommend any contractor.

Cellulose and fiberglass: densities and the federal rules for each

Cellulose is recycled paper fiber treated with fire retardants; blown fiberglass is spun glass fiber. In an open attic they behave similarly enough that installers usually pick by habit and local price. In a closed wall cavity the target densities differ substantially, and DOE's guideline puts both numbers in writing: 3.25 to 4.0 pounds per cubic foot for cellulose, 1.6 pounds per cubic foot for blown fiberglass. A dense-pack job done below its target density will settle and leave a gap at the top of every cavity, and nobody will see it.

Cellulose carries a federal safety standard that fiberglass does not. CPSC's interim consumer product safety standard at 16 CFR part 1209 prescribes flame resistance and corrosiveness requirements for cellulose insulation that is a consumer product, and applies both to material sold to consumers for their own installation and to material distributed for installation by professionals. The standard applies to cellulose insulation manufactured after October 15, 1979. The residential code picks this up directly: Seattle's adopted residential code requires cellulosic fiber loose-fill insulation to comply with CPSC 16 CFR parts 1209 and 1404, and requires each package to be clearly labeled accordingly.

The code also sets a floor for anything left exposed on an attic floor, requiring exposed insulation materials installed there to have a critical radiant flux of not less than 0.12 watt per square centimeter, tested in accordance with ASTM E970.

The CPSC warning label your installer is supposed to hand you

This is a small federal requirement that almost nobody knows about and that tells you something about the crew. CPSC's rule at 16 CFR part 1404 requires manufacturers of cellulose insulation to label every container with a caution notice, and the label text ends with a line addressed to the person doing the work: Request to Installer: Remove this label and give it to the consumer at completion of job. If you have cellulose blown in and are handed nothing, ask.

The warning itself is about heat, and it explains two of the most common causes of attic fires after an insulation job. The required label tells the reader to keep cellulose insulation at least three inches away from the sides of recessed light fixtures and not to place insulation over such fixtures so as to entrap heat, to keep the insulation away from exhaust flues of furnaces, water heaters, space heaters or other heat-producing devices, and to use a barrier to permanently maintain clearance around these areas. It also directs the reader to check with local building or fire officials for guidance on installation and barrier requirements.

CPSC's own explanation of why the rule exists is worth knowing: the Commission determined that fires can occur where cellulose insulation is improperly installed too close to the sides or over the top of recessed electrical light fixtures, or too close to exhaust flues, and that these fires may result in serious injuries or deaths, even where the insulation itself complies with the flammability standard. A compliant product installed carelessly is still a hazard.

The FTC R-value Rule: what your insulation receipt must state

The FTC's rule on the labeling and advertising of home insulation, at 16 CFR part 460, puts specific obligations on installers, and it is the cheapest quality check available to a homeowner. Section 460.17 requires an installer to give customers a contract or receipt for the insulation installed, and for loose-fill the receipt must show the coverage area, the initial installed thickness, the minimum settled thickness, the R-value, and the number of bags used. For insulation other than loose-fill and reflective products, it must show the coverage area, thickness and R-value. The receipt must be dated and signed by the installer.

The rule also closes two arithmetic loopholes that inflate what a job appears to deliver. Where insulation is installed in more than one part of the house, the data for each part must be shown, and the rule states you may not add up the coverage areas or R-values for different parts of the house. And it says plainly: do not multiply the R-value for one inch by the number of inches you installed. A quoted R-value that was reached that way is not a tested figure.

There is a step before purchase as well. Section 460.15 requires an installer to have fact sheets for the products they sell, and, before customers agree to buy, to show them the fact sheet for the type of insulation they want. Those fact sheets carry the manufacturer's coverage chart, which for loose-fill must show the minimum settled thickness, initial installed thickness, maximum net coverage area, number of bags per 1,000 square feet and minimum weight per square foot at the listed R-values. Comparing the bag count on your receipt against that chart is the single most useful thing a homeowner can do after the truck leaves.

One-hole dense-pack in a closed wall cavity

DOE's Building America guideline describes the one-hole dense-pack method as the best practice for retrofitting insulation into the closed wall cavities of an existing home, and the sequencing is what separates a good job from a decorative one.

  • Air sealing details come first: caulk or foam at penetrations, around windows and doors, and at the top and bottom plates of the wall where they are accessible.
  • Escape pathways are identified and closed, including outlets and switches on exterior walls, utility chases, junctions to attics and foundations, and open floor cavities, or the insulation simply runs out of the cavity into somewhere else.
  • The HVAC system is checked, because wall cavities that are open to return air ducts or plenums must be sealed off and separated from them before anything is blown in.
  • Blocking inside cavities is located, since a blocked cavity needs more than one fill location to be filled at all.
  • Access holes are drilled through the siding and sheathing from outside, or through the interior finish from inside; DOE notes exterior installation is preferred for occupied homes and for wood, fiber cement or vinyl siding, while interior installation is preferred for brick, stucco or stone facades.
  • Filling starts with full-height unobstructed walls so density can be gauged accurately, filling the top of the cavity completely, then reinserting the tube to fill the bottom, withdrawing it slowly as the cavity fills.
  • Holes are plugged with tapered wooden plugs, siding reinstated or interior plugs spackled and prepped for paint.
  • Verification follows: a thermographic scan with adequate temperature difference across the assembly confirms the insulation reached the whole wall, and a blower door test establishes the post-retrofit leakage level.

When blown-in insulation is the wrong answer for a wall

Some walls should not be filled, and a contractor who never says so is not inspecting. DOE's guideline is explicit that if a house has live knob and tube wiring, insulation should not be added to wall cavities, and suggests either insulating over the exterior of the sheathing with new cladding installed over it, or waiting until the electrical system is being upgraded. It also notes the National Electrical Code limits loose-fill insulation in cavities containing that old wiring.

Moisture is the second disqualifier. DOE's field inspection step says that if the condition of the facade, the sheathing, the door and window framing or the interior wall finish indicates moisture problems, do not proceed with the insulation retrofit until the issues have been identified and repaired. It also warns that dense-packing compresses insulation in a confined space, so cracks and other evidence of weakness in wall finishes must be addressed first, because further damage can occur at those weak points.

Older houses carry two more flags. DOE's guidance tells retrofit professionals to assume lead paint is present in any home built before 1978, and to comply with EPA's renovation requirements where more than 6 square feet of interior or 20 square feet of exterior painted surface will be disturbed. It also notes that some loose-fill attic insulation may contain asbestos mined with the vermiculite used as insulation, which is a reason to stop and have material assessed rather than to blow new insulation over it.

Loose-fill in an attic versus dense-pack in a wall

Loose-fill on an open attic floor is the cheapest R-value in residential construction. It is measured by depth against a target R-value, it can be topped up later, it is easy to inspect with a ruler, and it does almost nothing for air leakage on its own, because air moves through fiber insulation rather than being stopped by it.

Dense-pack in a closed wall cavity is a different proposition. It is harder to inspect, it cannot be topped up, it requires drilling and patching, and it does meaningfully reduce air movement within the cavity when the density is actually achieved. That conditional is the whole job: the difference between a wall packed to 3.5 pounds per cubic foot and one blown loose is invisible from the outside and permanent.

This is why the verification steps matter more for walls than for attics. Ask whether a thermographic scan is included after the work, ask what density the crew is targeting and how they confirm it, and ask for the bag count on the receipt that the FTC rule requires anyway.

What moves a blown-in insulation quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Quotes move on the area being covered and the target R-value or density, on whether the work is an open attic floor or a closed wall cavity, on access and whether exterior siding or interior finish has to be opened and restored, on how much air sealing and how many barriers around flues and recessed fixtures are needed first, on whether existing material stays or is removed, on the number of drilled holes a walls job needs once blocking is mapped, and on whether thermographic verification and a blower door test are included.

Two documents settle most disputes before they start. Ask to see the manufacturer's fact sheet for the product before you agree, as section 460.15 requires, and then check the finished receipt against it for coverage area, initial installed thickness, minimum settled thickness, R-value and bag count. If the receipt is missing, so is your only record of what you bought.

LokalMatch is the front end of the search. Post the job once, insulation contractors working in your area see it, and interested ones contact you directly. Pros pay for requests; homeowners use it free. LokalMatch does not install anything, does not set prices and does not endorse any company, so licensing, insurance and the paperwork above stay with you.

Blown-In Insulation: frequently asked questions

What should be on my receipt after blown-in insulation is installed?

The FTC's R-value Rule at 16 CFR 460.17 requires the installer to give you a contract or receipt, dated and signed. For loose-fill it must show the coverage area, the initial installed thickness, the minimum settled thickness, the R-value and the number of bags used. If insulation went into more than one part of the house, each part's data must appear separately, and the rule forbids adding up coverage areas or R-values across different parts.

How dense should dense-pack insulation be?

DOE's Building America guideline gives a recommended density of 3.25 to 4.0 pounds per cubic foot for cellulose and 1.6 pounds per cubic foot for blown fiberglass, and states the material must be installed to the required density throughout the entire cavity to reduce the risks of convective looping, settling and air leakage. Ask what density the crew targets and how they verify it.

Is cellulose insulation a fire hazard?

Manufactured cellulose has to meet a federal standard: CPSC's interim standard at 16 CFR part 1209 prescribes flame resistance and corrosiveness requirements for cellulose insulation manufactured after October 15, 1979, and the residential code as adopted by Seattle requires compliance with parts 1209 and 1404. The residual risk is installation. CPSC's required label tells installers to keep cellulose at least three inches from the sides of recessed light fixtures, never to cover them so as to entrap heat, and to keep it away from exhaust flues, using a permanent barrier.

Can blown-in insulation go into walls with knob and tube wiring?

No. DOE's guideline states that if a home has live knob and tube wiring, insulation should not be added to wall cavities, and notes that the National Electrical Code limits loose-fill insulation in cavities containing that wiring. The alternatives it suggests are insulating over the exterior of the sheathing with new cladding installed over it, or scheduling the insulation work for when the electrical system is being upgraded.

How do I know the insulation actually filled the whole wall?

Ask for verification rather than assurance. DOE's guideline says that given an adequate temperature difference across the wall assembly, a thermographic scan can confirm that insulation has been installed into the entire assembly, and that after construction the home should be tested with a blower door to determine post-retrofit leakage levels and whether mechanical ventilation is warranted. Comparing bag count on the receipt against the manufacturer's coverage chart is a second check.

Should I blow insulation into an old wall that has damp patches?

Not yet. DOE's field inspection step is that where the facade, sheathing, window and door framing or interior finish indicates moisture problems, the insulation retrofit should not proceed until the issues are identified and repaired. It also warns that dense-packing compresses insulation in a confined space, so cracks and weak points in wall finishes need repair first because further damage can occur there.

Sources

  1. FTC R-value Rule, 16 CFR 460.17: What installers must tell their customers (govinfo)
  2. FTC R-value Rule, 16 CFR 460.12 and 460.13: Labels and fact sheets (govinfo)
  3. CPSC interim safety standard for cellulose insulation, 16 CFR 1209.1 (govinfo)
  4. CPSC cellulose insulation labeling rule, 16 CFR 1404.4 (govinfo)
  5. DOE Building America: Measure Guideline, Wall Air Sealing and Insulation Methods in Existing Homes
  6. City of Seattle, 2021 Seattle Residential Code Chapter 3 (Sections R302.10 and R316)

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 21, 2026. How we write and check our guides

Find insulation contractors by city

California

Show 186 cities

Florida

Show 82 cities

Maine

Show 1 cities

Texas

Show 79 cities

What affects the cost of blown-in insulation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Area to insulate: attic, walls, basement or crawl space
  • Type of insulation
  • Removal of old insulation
  • Air sealing work
  • Access to the space
  • Ventilation changes

How to compare insulation contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who talks about air sealing and ventilation, not only adding more insulation.
  • Ask them to check the attic or walls for moisture, mould, old wiring or insulation that may contain asbestos before starting.
  • Get a written quote that states the type of insulation, the areas covered and the target insulation level.
  • For spray foam, ask about their training, curing time and when it's safe to be back in the home.
  • Consider an energy audit before and after the work to see where heat is being lost.

Questions to ask insulation contractors before you hire

  • What type of insulation do you recommend for this area, and why?
  • Will you seal air leaks before insulating?
  • How will you keep the attic properly ventilated?
  • What will you do if you find old insulation that may contain asbestos, mould or old wiring?
  • For spray foam, how long do we need to stay out of the house?
  • Does this work need a permit or an inspection?

When to call a pro for blown-in insulation

  • Rooms that stay cold or drafty, or ice dams forming on the roof
  • Frost or condensation in the attic in winter
  • Loose, pebble-like insulation in the attic: leave it undisturbed and have it assessed by a qualified professional.

Blown-in insulation permits and local rules

Some blown-in insulation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Ready to get blown-in insulation quotes?

Tell us about your blown-in insulation project.

Do you offer blown-in insulation services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.