Skip to content
LokalMatch

Heat Pump Installation

Heat Pump Installation near you

A heat pump is an air conditioner that can run its refrigerant cycle in both directions, so one outdoor unit both cools the house in July and heats it in January. Because it moves heat rather than making it, ENERGY STAR notes an air-source heat pump can deliver up to three times more heat energy to a home than the electrical energy it consumes, which is the whole argument for the technology and the reason it has spread well past the mild-winter states where it first took hold in the United States.

Tell us about your heat pump project and we’ll help you find local heat pump installers who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

On this page

Installing one is a bigger decision than swapping a condenser. The system has to heat the house at the local design temperature, not just cool it in summer, which changes how it is sized and usually means planning backup heat, thermostat controls that understand a heat pump, and sometimes electrical service work. DOE's own guidance warns that cold climates call for equipment specifically designed to keep running at low ambient temperatures before falling back on resistance heat, and that leaning on those resistance elements is the expensive way to stay warm.

On LokalMatch you describe the project once, with your ZIP code, the house and the heating you have now, and heat pump installers who serve your area get in touch. The pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install anything, does not set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend the companies that respond, so verifying state licensing and EPA refrigerant certification is still yours to do.

Heat pump types: ducted air-source, ductless mini-split, dual fuel and geothermal

DOE groups residential heat pumps into air-source, geothermal, ductless mini-split and absorption types, and notes that geothermal systems cost more to install but pay back over time through lower heating and cooling costs. For most homes the practical choice is narrower: whether there are usable ducts, and what happens on the coldest nights of the year.

  • Ducted air-source heat pump: replaces both the furnace and the air conditioner on existing ductwork, with electric resistance heat or the existing furnace as backup.
  • Ductless mini-split: an outdoor unit serving one or more indoor heads, which suits homes with no ducts, additions, and rooms the duct system never handled well.
  • Dual fuel: a heat pump paired with a gas furnace, switching to combustion below a changeover temperature set during commissioning.
  • Cold climate air-source heat pump: designed to keep producing useful heat at low outdoor temperatures instead of handing off to resistance heat early.
  • Packaged heat pump: a single outdoor cabinet for slab homes without an indoor equipment space.
  • Geothermal heat pump: uses a ground loop as the heat source and sink, with higher installation cost and site requirements but steadier winter performance.

HSPF2, SEER2 and the ENERGY STAR cold climate designation

A heat pump carries three ratings, and all three matter. HSPF2 describes seasonal heating efficiency, SEER2 describes seasonal cooling efficiency and EER2 describes cooling at a single hot design condition. All come from DOE's appendix M1 test procedure, which replaced the older SEER and HSPF tests on January 1, 2023, so ratings from before and after the change are not comparable and the federal minimums sit at 10 CFR 430.32(c)(5).

ENERGY STAR certification sets a bar above the federal minimum. For split-system air-source heat pumps the criteria are at least 7.8 HSPF2, 15.2 SEER2 and 11.0 EER2; single-package equipment must reach at least 7.2 HSPF2, 15.2 SEER2 and 10.0 EER2. DOE's purchasing guidance points federal buyers at that same 15.2 SEER2 and 7.8 HSPF2 level across northern, hot-humid and hot-dry states.

The cold climate designation is the one to look for where winter actually bites, because it is verified at low temperature rather than inferred from a seasonal average. ENERGY STAR requires a certified cold climate heat pump to reach at least 8.5 HSPF2 for non-ducted split systems and 8.1 HSPF2 for ducted split and single-package systems, alongside a coefficient of performance of at least 1.75 at 5 degrees Fahrenheit and retention of at least 70 percent of its 47-degree heating capacity at that same 5 degrees. DOE reports that cold climate air-source heat pumps can reduce household energy consumption by up to 40 percent, with the largest savings in homes currently heated by electric resistance or fuel oil.

How a heat pump installation should run: load calculation, backup heat and commissioning

Sizing a heat pump is harder than sizing an air conditioner because one machine has to satisfy two loads. ENERGY STAR directs contractors to verify size with a Manual J calculation of the home's heating and cooling requirement, and the design decision that follows is how much of the heating load the heat pump itself should carry before backup heat takes over. Get that wrong toward oversizing and the equipment short cycles in cooling and dehumidifies poorly; get it wrong toward undersizing and the resistance elements run through every cold snap, which DOE specifically cautions against because they are an expensive way to make heat.

The rest of the job is the part that decides whether the rating shows up in the house. DOE's purchasing guidance names oversizing, improper charging and leaky ducts as the classic sources of efficiency loss and points installers at the ANSI/ACCA HVAC Quality Installation Specification. Ducts designed for a furnace often need larger returns to suit the lower supply temperatures and longer run times of a heat pump, and ENERGY STAR notes that sealing and insulating ducts can improve system efficiency by as much as 20 percent, while improper installation can reduce it by up to 30 percent.

  • A Manual J load calculation using the local design temperature, followed by equipment selection against the manufacturer's low-temperature capacity tables rather than the nameplate tonnage.
  • A backup heat plan: resistance elements, an existing furnace on dual fuel, or a documented changeover temperature, with the control strategy explained to you.
  • An electrical review, since resistance backup and a new outdoor unit can add load that a small service panel does not have spare.
  • Duct evaluation, sealing and return-air capacity, particularly on runs in attics, crawlspaces and unheated basements.
  • A thermostat that is designed for heat pump control, so it does not call for expensive resistance heat on every recovery from a setback.
  • Outdoor unit siting raised clear of snow and standing water, with clearance for defrost meltwater to drain away.
  • Commissioning with a measured evacuation, a weighed-in charge, static pressure and temperature splits recorded in both heating and cooling modes.
  • The mechanical permit, the inspection, manufacturer registration and the startup readings kept with the invoice.

Licensing, permits and the refrigerant rules that apply to a new heat pump

Who may install the system is a state question. California licenses the work under the C-20 Warm-Air Heating, Ventilating and Air-Conditioning Contractor classification through its Contractors State License Board, which offers a public license check; Texas licenses air conditioning and refrigeration contractors through its Department of Licensing and Regulation, where a Class B license covers cooling systems up to 25 tons and heating up to 1.5 million BTUs per hour, a Class A license covers any size, each license carries one endorsement, and commercial general liability insurance must be maintained while the license is active; Florida separates an unlimited class A air-conditioning contractor from a class B contractor limited to 25 tons of cooling and 500,000 Btu of heating in any one system, and a certified contractor who may work anywhere in the state from a registered contractor tied to one jurisdiction. Cities commonly add a permit and an inspection.

The refrigerant layer is federal and applies everywhere. EPA Section 608 certification is required of technicians who maintain, service, repair or dispose of equipment that could release refrigerant, and EPA prohibits intentionally venting refrigerants and their HFC substitutes during that work. New heat pumps also sit inside the AIM Act technology transitions rule, which from January 1, 2025 bars new residential air conditioning and heat pump systems using HFCs above a global warming potential of 750, with installation of components made or imported before that date permitted through January 1, 2026. In practice that means A2L refrigerants: EPA's SNAP program lists R-32, with a global warming potential of 675, and R-454B, at 470, as acceptable with use conditions for this equipment, both classified as mildly flammable, which is why installers need current training and the right tools rather than the habits of the R-410A era.

Federal credits, state-run rebates and utility programs for heat pumps

Heat pumps attract more incentive money than any other piece of residential HVAC, which also makes the rules around them change fastest. The federal Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit under section 25C applied to qualifying property placed in service on or after January 1, 2023; ENERGY STAR describes the qualifying criteria that took effect on January 1, 2025, under which eligible heat pumps had to be ENERGY STAR Most Efficient and could qualify through either a cold climate pathway or a cooling-dominated and dual fuel pathway, with the earlier regional restriction dropped. The IRS states the credit is not allowed for property placed in service after December 31, 2025, following Public Law 119-21 enacted July 4, 2025, so treat the current federal position as something to confirm on the IRS site before you sign anything.

Two other channels are worth checking, and they are local rather than national. DOE's Home Energy Rebates, which include whole-home efficiency rebates and electrification and appliance rebates covering electric heating and cooling upgrades, are funded federally but designed and run by each state or territory energy office, and DOE says they are available in selected states, so your State Energy Office is the authority on whether yours is live. Separately, utility programs often pay for qualifying heat pumps regardless of federal policy, and they generally require certified equipment, a licensed installer and pre-approval, so ask before the equipment is ordered rather than after.

Getting a long life out of a heat pump: duty cycle, siting and service

A heat pump works both seasons, so it accumulates run hours faster than an air conditioner that rests for half the year. That makes the things that shorten equipment life matter more, not less. ENERGY STAR's guidance that improper installation can reduce efficiency by up to 30 percent and possibly shorten the equipment's life applies with double force to a machine running year round, and DOE consistently lists incorrect charge, restricted airflow and leaky ducts as the failures that do the quiet damage.

Siting decides a surprising amount. An outdoor unit raised on a stand clears snow and defrost meltwater instead of sitting in a refreezing puddle; clearance on all sides lets it reject and absorb heat; and keeping it out of a roof drip line avoids ice building on the coil each thaw. ENERGY STAR advises having heating and cooling equipment evaluated by a professional once it is more than ten years old or no longer keeping the house comfortable, which is a reasonable point to start planning rather than waiting for a February failure.

What drives the cost of a heat pump installation

Heat pump quotes vary more than air conditioner quotes because the scope varies more: two contractors can propose genuinely different systems for the same house. Read the scope before the total.

  • Whether the home already has ducts that can carry heat pump airflow, or needs duct modification, larger returns, or ductless heads instead.
  • The low-temperature capacity required by your climate, and whether that pushes the design toward cold climate rated equipment.
  • The backup heat strategy: resistance elements, keeping an existing furnace for dual fuel, or neither.
  • Electrical work, from circuits and disconnects to a service panel upgrade where resistance backup will not fit in the existing capacity.
  • The number of indoor heads or zones on a ductless design, and the routing of line sets through finished walls.
  • Removal and lawful recovery of refrigerant from the old system, plus disposal of the equipment.
  • Permits, inspections and, on some incentive programs, documentation or a post-installation verification visit.

Heat Pump Installation: frequently asked questions

Does a heat pump actually work in a cold US climate?

Modern cold climate models are designed for it. ENERGY STAR's cold climate designation requires third-party verified low-temperature performance, including a coefficient of performance of at least 1.75 at 5 degrees Fahrenheit and retention of at least 70 percent of the unit's 47-degree heating capacity at that temperature. DOE reports cold climate air-source heat pumps can cut household energy use by up to 40 percent, most of all in homes heated by electric resistance or fuel oil.

What is the difference between HSPF2 and SEER2?

HSPF2 measures seasonal heating efficiency and SEER2 measures seasonal cooling efficiency, with EER2 covering cooling at one hot design condition. All three come from the appendix M1 test procedure that replaced the older SEER and HSPF tests on January 1, 2023, so compare current ratings only with other current ratings, never with the number on a unit installed before the change.

Do I still need backup heat if I install a heat pump?

Usually yes, and the design should say what it is. DOE notes that cold climates require heat pumps built to run at low ambient temperatures before switching to resistance heating, and warns against relying heavily on those resistance elements because they are inefficient. Options are electric resistance, keeping an existing furnace for dual fuel operation, and a thermostat designed for heat pumps so backup is not summoned unnecessarily.

What refrigerant will my new heat pump use?

An A2L refrigerant rather than R-410A. EPA's technology transitions rule under the AIM Act restricts new residential air conditioning and heat pump systems to refrigerants below a global warming potential of 750 from January 1, 2025, and EPA's SNAP program lists R-32 and R-454B as acceptable with use conditions for this equipment. Both are classified mildly flammable, so installation and later service call for a technician trained on them.

Can I replace only the outdoor unit and keep my existing indoor coil?

Rarely a good idea, and with the refrigerant change it is usually not possible. Rated efficiency comes from a matched indoor and outdoor pair tested together, incentive programs generally require the certified matched combination, and components designed for different refrigerants are not interchangeable. Expect a proper quote to replace the pair and, where needed, the line set.

Is a heat pump installer required to be licensed?

In most states, yes, but the rule is set by your state rather than nationally. California issues the C-20 HVAC classification and offers an online license check; Texas licenses air conditioning and refrigeration contractors in Class A and Class B with size limits and mandatory liability insurance; Florida separates class A and class B air-conditioning contractors and certified from registered licensees. Check your state board, then check the city permit requirement too.

Sources

  1. ENERGY STAR: Heat Pump Equipment Key Product Criteria
  2. ENERGY STAR: Air-Source Heat Pumps
  3. ENERGY STAR: Air Source Heat Pumps Tax Credit
  4. US Department of Energy: Purchasing Energy-Efficient Residential Air-Source Heat Pumps
  5. US Department of Energy: Cold Climate Air-Source Heat Pumps
  6. US Department of Energy: Consumer Central Air Conditioners and Heat Pumps standards and test procedures
  7. US Department of Energy: Heat Pump Systems
  8. US Department of Energy: Home Energy Rebates Programs
  9. EPA SNAP: Substitutes in Residential and Light Commercial Air Conditioning and Heat Pumps
  10. EPA: Frequent Questions on the Phasedown of Hydrofluorocarbons
  11. IRS: FAQs on modifications under Public Law 119-21
  12. California Contractors State License Board: Licensing Classifications

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

Find heat pump installers by city

California

Show 186 cities

Florida

Show 82 cities

Texas

Show 79 cities

What affects the cost of heat pump

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of system and fuel source
  • Size and efficiency of the equipment
  • Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
  • Electrical or gas line changes
  • Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
  • Removal and disposal of the old equipment
  • Emergency or after-hours service

How to compare heat pump installers before you hire

  • Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
  • For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
  • Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
  • Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
  • Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.

Questions to ask heat pump installers before you hire

  • Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
  • How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
  • Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
  • Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
  • Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
  • How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?

When to call a pro for heat pump

  • If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
  • No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
  • Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use

Heat pump permits and local rules

Some heat pump work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Ready to get heat pump quotes?

Tell us about your heat pump project.

Do you offer heat pump services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.