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An energy-efficient window in the United States is not a style of window. It is a product that meets a published numerical criterion for the climate zone your county sits in, and the criteria are specific enough to settle most arguments at a showroom counter. The ENERGY STAR Version 7.0 specification for residential windows, doors and skylights, effective October 23, 2023, sets four zones and a pair of numbers for each: in the Northern zone a window needs a U-factor of 0.22 with a solar heat gain coefficient of 0.17, in North-Central 0.25 and 0.40, in South-Central 0.28 and 0.23, and in the Southern zone 0.32 and 0.23.

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The direction of each requirement is the part people get backwards. U-factor is a ceiling everywhere, and lower is better. Solar heat gain is a ceiling in the three warmer zones, where the sun's heat is unwanted. In the Northern zone it works as a floor instead, because winter sun through a window is useful heat, which is why the specification also offers an equivalent performance path there.

The other question everyone asks is about the tax credit, and the answer has changed. This guide covers the zone criteria, the Northern equivalent path, air leakage, the current federal credit position, storm windows and attachments where full replacement is not on the table, and what to check before you sign.

The ENERGY STAR Version 7.0 numbers, zone by zone

The specification is short and the table is the whole argument. For windows, the Northern zone requires a U-factor of 0.22 and a solar heat gain coefficient of 0.17, North-Central 0.25 and 0.40, South-Central 0.28 and 0.23, and Southern 0.32 and 0.23. Skylights are judged separately and less harshly, at 0.45 in the Northern zone with any solar heat gain coefficient, and 0.50 with 0.25 in the other three. ENERGY STAR states that performance criteria are based on ratings certified by the National Fenestration Rating Council and vary for each of the climate zones, and that certified products are independently tested, certified and verified by the NFRC.

Finding your zone is a two-field lookup rather than a judgment call: the program's climate zone tool asks you to select your state and county. That matters in large states that straddle a boundary, where two neighboring counties buy different windows to reach the same label. Ask for the zone in writing on the quote, because it is the single fact that makes two bids comparable.

One detail decides whether the numbers on your contract mean anything. The specification states that to meet the ENERGY STAR criteria, a product model must meet the specification in effect on the model's date of manufacture, and defines that date as the date on which a unit is considered to be completely assembled. So the criteria that apply to your order are the ones current when your windows are built, which is a reason to keep the temporary labels and photograph them before they are peeled off.

Why the Northern zone lets a slightly worse U-factor through

In the Northern zone the specification offers a second route it calls equivalent energy performance, and it is worth understanding because it explains what the program is actually optimizing. Alongside the prescriptive pair of 0.22 and 0.17, a window may instead be certified for the Northern zone at a U-factor of 0.23 or 0.24 with a solar heat gain coefficient of 0.35, or at 0.25 or 0.26 with 0.40. In other words, a window that insulates slightly less well can still qualify if it admits appreciably more winter sun. The specification states that these equivalent criteria are not applicable to the North-Central, South-Central or Southern zones, or to doors or skylights.

That trade-off is also the reason orientation matters inside one house. A window chosen for a cold climate on a south wall is doing two jobs, keeping heat in and letting solar heat through, while the same product on an east or west wall in a hot climate is only being asked to keep heat out. If a company quotes a single glass package for every elevation without discussing which way the rooms face, it is selling from a catalog rather than designing for your house.

The federal 25C credit for windows ended with 2025

This is the claim most likely to be out of date in a sales conversation, so it is worth stating precisely. The IRS says the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit is allowed for qualifying property placed in service on or after January 1, 2023, and before January 1, 2026, and its published guidance on the modifications made by Public Law 119-21, enacted on July 4, 2025, states that the credit will not be allowed for any property placed in service after December 31, 2025. The trigger is when the property was placed in service, not when it was bought, quoted or paid for.

While it was running, the terms were narrower than most advertising suggested. The IRS describes a maximum annual credit of 1,200 dollars for energy efficient property costs and certain improvements, with exterior windows and skylights limited to 600 dollars and exterior doors limited to 250 dollars per door and 500 dollars in total. Windows and skylights had to meet ENERGY STAR Most Efficient certification requirements, which is a tighter bar than ordinary ENERGY STAR certification, while doors had to meet the applicable ENERGY STAR requirements. For 2025, no credit was allowed unless the item was produced by a qualified manufacturer and the taxpayer reported the qualified manufacturer identification number for it on the return.

If a quote in front of you still shows a federal credit line for windows, ask the company to name the statute and the placed-in-service date it is relying on. State, local and utility programs are separate and continue on their own terms, so ask your utility what it currently funds rather than assuming the federal program has simply been renamed.

Air leakage: the rating that separates a good window from a good-looking one

U-factor and solar heat gain get all the attention, and air leakage is the number that most often explains why a room still feels wrong. The Version 7.0 specification requires certified windows, sliding doors and skylights to carry an air leakage rating of 0.3 cubic feet per minute per square foot or better, and swinging doors 0.5. A manufacturer can show compliance either by displaying that figure in the air leakage portion of the NFRC temporary label, or by carrying one of the structural certification labels the specification names, which include the AAMA Gold Label, the Keystone Certifications NAFS structural certification label, the NAMI NAFS structural certification label and the WDMA Hallmark certification label.

Two practical points follow. A swinging door is held to a looser air leakage requirement than a slider or a window, which is worth knowing when a patio opening is being specified. And the rating measures air through the product only, so a certified window installed into an unsealed rough opening will still feel drafty. Ask how the opening will be air sealed and flashed, and treat that as part of the window specification rather than as an extra.

Storm windows and attachments when full replacement is not on the table

Replacing every window is not always the right project, and the federal research on the alternatives is more encouraging than the industry's reputation suggests. The Department of Energy study of window attachments by Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, covering twelve climates and more than sixteen thousand energy analysis runs, concluded that in north and largely central climate zones, where heating energy use exceeds cooling, a combination of insulating properties and balanced solar control saves the most, and that insulating interior window panels, exterior storm panels and cellular shades are most effective in those places. In cooling dominated climates it found that all window attachments save energy, because they universally lower the solar heat gain coefficient.

It is equally clear about the limits. The study found that not all operable shades save energy in all climates, that performance depends heavily on how the occupant actually uses them, and that some attachments have higher energy use than an unshaded window in heating dominated climates, naming vertical louvered blinds, awnings and exterior films. Attachments are also rated independently: the Department of Energy describes the Attachments Energy Rating Council as an independent, public interest, non-profit organization whose mission is to provide consumers with credible, relevant and comparable information about window attachments and their performance.

What certified windows will not fix

  • Air leaking through the rough opening behind the casing, which no rating covers and which the installation has to address separately.
  • Water entry caused by flashing that was wrong before the window was changed, and stays wrong after.
  • An uninsulated attic or a leaky basement rim, which usually move a heating bill more than glass does.
  • Summer overheating on a west wall that shading, an overhang or an attachment would address more cheaply than glass alone.
  • Condensation driven by indoor humidity, which is a ventilation and moisture problem appearing on the coldest surface in the room.
  • A bedroom opening that has to serve as an emergency escape route, which is a code question to settle before the sizes are ordered.
  • Noise, which is related to but not the same as thermal performance, and needs to be specified as its own requirement if it is the reason you are buying.

Making energy claims comparable, and how LokalMatch fits in

The way to keep an energy window conversation honest is to reduce it to four written items: the climate zone for your county, the certified U-factor and solar heat gain coefficient for the exact product line and configuration quoted, the air leakage rating, and how the rough opening will be sealed and flashed. Everything else in the pitch is commentary. If two bids differ sharply and those four items are the same, the difference is scope or labor and you can ask about it directly.

LokalMatch handles the introduction only. You set out the project once, with your county, the number and orientation of the openings, what is wrong with the current windows and whether you are considering attachments instead, and window companies serving your area contact you directly. Those companies pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive; homeowners pay nothing. LokalMatch does not sell or install windows, does not set or estimate prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any company, so verifying certified ratings and program claims remains your job.

Energy-Efficient Windows: frequently asked questions

What U-factor and solar heat gain coefficient should I be asking for?

The ones for your ENERGY STAR climate zone under the Version 7.0 specification, effective October 23, 2023: Northern requires 0.22 and 0.17, North-Central 0.25 and 0.40, South-Central 0.28 and 0.23, and Southern 0.32 and 0.23. Find your zone by selecting your state and county in the program's climate zone tool, and get the zone and the certified ratings for the exact configuration written on the quote.

Why does the Northern zone have a solar heat gain requirement at all?

Because winter sun through a window is useful heat in a heating-dominated climate, so the criterion works as a floor rather than a ceiling there. The specification also allows an equivalent performance route in the Northern zone only: 0.23 or 0.24 with a solar heat gain coefficient of 0.35, or 0.25 or 0.26 with 0.40. It states those equivalent criteria do not apply to the North-Central, South-Central or Southern zones, or to doors or skylights.

Can I still get the federal tax credit for new windows?

No. The IRS states the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit is allowed for qualifying property placed in service on or after January 1, 2023, and before January 1, 2026, and its guidance on Public Law 119-21 says the credit will not be allowed for any property placed in service after December 31, 2025. While it ran, windows and skylights were capped at 600 dollars and had to meet ENERGY STAR Most Efficient certification requirements. State and utility programs are separate.

Is air leakage worth worrying about if the other numbers are good?

Yes, and it is the number most often ignored. Version 7.0 requires certified windows, sliding doors and skylights to be rated at 0.3 cubic feet per minute per square foot or better and swinging doors at 0.5, shown either in the air leakage portion of the NFRC temporary label or through one of the named structural certification labels. Remember that the rating measures air through the product, so ask separately how the rough opening will be sealed.

Are storm windows or shades a reasonable alternative to replacement?

Often, particularly in the north. The Department of Energy and Berkeley Lab study of window attachments found that in north and largely central climates, insulating interior window panels, exterior storm panels and cellular shades are the most effective attachments, and that in cooling dominated climates all attachments save energy. It also found that not all operable shades save energy in all climates and that results depend heavily on how they are actually used.

Sources

  1. ENERGY STAR Version 7.0 product specification for residential windows, doors and skylights: criteria tables, equivalent performance and effective date
  2. What makes it ENERGY STAR: criteria based on NFRC-certified ratings and climate zones
  3. ENERGY STAR windows, doors and skylights climate zone finder
  4. Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit: annual limits, ENERGY STAR Most Efficient requirement and manufacturer identification — Internal Revenue Service
  5. IRS FAQs on the modification of section 25C under Public Law 119-21, enacted July 4, 2025
  6. Windows and skylights federal tax credit: ENERGY STAR Most Efficient eligibility
  7. Energy Savings from Window Attachments — U.S. Department of Energy and Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory
  8. Attachments Energy Rating Council — U.S. Department of Energy

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 21, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of energy-efficient window

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare window installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask window installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for energy-efficient window

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Energy-efficient window permits and local rules

Some energy-efficient window work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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