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The garden shed is the most common building project in the United Kingdom and the one most often got slightly wrong. Not because the rules are hard, but because they are specific: the permitted development conditions for outbuildings turn on height, eaves height, how much of the garden is already covered, and where the building sits relative to the house and the boundary, and it is easy to choose a shed that breaks one of them by a few centimetres.

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There is a second set of rules underneath the planning ones, and it works differently. Even where a shed needs no planning permission, the building regulations have their own exemption for small detached buildings, with conditions about floor area, distance from the boundary, combustibility and whether anyone will sleep in it. A garden office with a sofa bed in it is a different building, legally, from the same structure used as a workshop.

Get both right and a shed is a weekend. Get either wrong and the remedies are expensive, because a building put up without permission or approval is the thing a buyer's solicitor asks about years later, and moving a shed is harder than siting it correctly in the first place.

The permitted development conditions for a shed, nation by nation

In England, Class E of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015 permits a building within the curtilage of a dwellinghouse required for a purpose incidental to its enjoyment, subject to a list of conditions. Development is not permitted where the total ground covered by buildings, enclosures and containers within the curtilage, other than the original dwellinghouse, would exceed 50 per cent of the total curtilage excluding the original house; where any part would be forward of a wall forming the principal elevation of the original dwellinghouse; where the building would have more than a single storey; where the eaves height would exceed 2.5 metres; where the height would exceed 4 metres with a dual-pitched roof, 2.5 metres within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage, or 3 metres in any other case; where it would include a verandah, balcony or raised platform; or where it is within the curtilage of a listed building.

Wales uses the same architecture with its own numbers, and GOV.WALES sets them out clearly: one storey, eaves no higher than 2.5 metres, 4 metres overall for a dual-pitched or hipped roof, 3 metres for a single pitch and 2.5 metres for a flat roof, 2.5 metres for any part within 2 metres of a boundary, 1.5 metres for any part within 2 metres of the house, no more than 50 per cent of the curtilage covered, and nothing in front of the building line of the principal elevation.

Scotland's Class 3A, as explained in planning circular 1/2024, permits sheds, garages, sun-houses and greenhouses within the curtilage with a maximum height of 4 metres, a maximum eaves height of 3 metres, a maximum of 2.5 metres for any part within 1 metre of the curtilage boundary, at least half the relevant front or rear curtilage left undeveloped, nothing forward of a principal or side elevation that fronts a road, and no use as a separate dwelling. Northern Ireland's Class D permits buildings and enclosures within the curtilage but not where more than 50 per cent of the curtilage would be covered, where the building would exceed 4 metres in height, where the eaves height within 2 metres of the boundary would exceed 2.5 metres, where any part would be within 3.5 metres of a boundary with a road opposite the rear wall of the house, or where it would include a deck, balcony, veranda or other raised platform.

Building regulations: when a shed is exempt and when it is not

Planning permission and building control are separate systems, and a shed can need neither, one or both. In England and Wales, Schedule 2 to the Building Regulations 2010 exempts small detached buildings under Class 6. A detached single-storey building with a floor area not exceeding 30 square metres, containing no sleeping accommodation, is exempt where no point of it is less than one metre from the boundary of its curtilage, or where it is constructed substantially of non-combustible material. Separately, any detached building with a floor area not exceeding 15 square metres and containing no sleeping accommodation is exempt regardless of where it sits or what it is made of.

Two conditions in that paragraph do the most work. The phrase containing no sleeping accommodation is why a garden room marketed as a guest annexe is a different proposition from a workshop of identical construction. And the one metre from the boundary condition is why a timber shed of, say, 20 square metres tucked tight against a fence is not exempt, while the same shed a metre and a half out into the garden is.

Scotland reaches a similar result by a different route. Schedule 3 to the Building (Scotland) Regulations 2004 lists work that does not require a building warrant, and type 4 covers a detached single-storey building with an area exceeding 8 square metres but not exceeding 30 square metres, ancillary to and within the curtilage of a house — except where the building is within 1 metre of the house unless it is at least 1 metre from any boundary, where it contains a fixed combustion appliance installation or a sanitary facility, or where it is a swimming pool deeper than 1.2 metres. Buildings of 8 square metres or less are dealt with as exempt buildings under Schedule 1.

What kind of shed suits what you will actually put in it

Overlap sheds, the cheapest, built from thin overlapping boards on a light frame, which suit dry storage of garden tools and not much else.
Shiplap and tongue-and-groove sheds, which are more weathertight and more rigid, and are the sensible default for anything you care about.
Heavy-duty workshops with thicker cladding and a stronger frame, appropriate where machinery, a bench or a bicycle collection lives inside.
Metal and plastic sheds, which do not rot and need no treatment but condense heavily inside unless ventilated.
Bike and bin stores, the smallest category, where security of the fixing to the ground matters more than the building itself.
Summerhouse-style sheds with glazing, which need the same planning check but are more vulnerable to overheating and to break-ins.
Garden offices and insulated studios, which cross into building regulations territory once the floor area, boundary distance or the presence of sleeping accommodation takes them outside the exemption.

Cladding, treatment and the base a shed stands on

Pressure-treated timber lasts far longer than dip-treated timber, and the difference is not visible on the forecourt, so ask which it is.
Any timber cut on site exposes untreated wood, so cut ends need brushing with a preservative before assembly.
Roof coverings range from mineral felt, which is cheap and has a limited life, through felt shingles to EPDM membranes, which last much longer.
Floors are the part most often under-specified: a thin floor on widely spaced bearers deflects under a bench or a mower.
The base decides the life of the building: a level, free-draining base of paving slabs, a concrete pad or a purpose-made grid keeps timber off wet ground.
Bearers should sit clear of standing water, with the ground falling away from the base rather than towards it.
Ventilation matters in every material, but especially metal and plastic, where warm damp air condenses on the inside of the sheet and drips on whatever is stored below.

Siting and building a shed so it lasts

Work out the permitted development position before choosing the shed, since eaves height and overall height vary between models by exactly the amount that matters.
Measure the distance to the boundary and decide whether you are relying on the one metre building regulations condition or on the 15 square metre limit.
Total the ground already covered by other buildings in the curtilage before adding another, because the 50 per cent test counts everything.
Check for buried services along the route of any base excavation, particularly where a supply runs to a garage or an outside tap.
Build the base level and larger than the shed footprint is tempting, but the shed should overhang slightly so that water drips clear.
Leave access all the way round if you can, because a shed tight against a fence cannot be treated, repaired or inspected.
Fix the building down to the base rather than relying on its weight, which matters in exposed gardens.
Arrange any electrical supply through a qualified electrician, since running a new circuit to a garden building is notifiable work in England.

The annual jobs that double a shed's life

Re-treat timber on the interval the manufacturer states, and do the base boards and the back, which are the faces that fail first.
Check the roof covering each autumn, especially at the edges and around any felt joint, before winter finds the weak spot.
Clear leaves and soil from around the base so that the bearers are not sitting in a damp bed.
Keep vegetation cut back from the walls, since a shed with a shrub against it never dries out.
Ventilate: leave a gap or fit a vent, and do not store wet tools or a damp mower inside a sealed building.
Oil hinges and the hasp, and check that the door still closes squarely, since a dropped door lets water in along the top edge.
Reconsider security once anything valuable moves in, including the fixing of the shed to its base and the quality of the lock and hinges.

What a shed project actually costs, and how LokalMatch fits in

The building is often the smaller part of the job. The base is what varies: an existing level slab costs nothing, while clearing, digging out, levelling a sloping garden and laying a new base can take a day or two with materials to remove. Beyond that, the figure moves on size and specification, whether the shed is a kit assembled on site or a building constructed in place, access for materials through a house or a narrow side passage, disposal of an old shed and its contents, and whether power, lighting or insulation are being added by other trades.

LokalMatch handles the introduction. Describe the job once with your postcode, including the size you want, what the ground is like and whether an old shed has to come out, and installers, landscapers and carpenters covering your area will get in touch with you. There is no charge to homeowners, and the businesses pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not supply or build sheds, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so checking the permitted development conditions and the building regulations position for your own garden is a task worth doing before you order.

Sheds: frequently asked questions

How tall can a garden shed be without planning permission in England?

Under Class E of the England permitted development order, a shed must be single storey, with an eaves height no greater than 2.5 metres and an overall height no greater than 4 metres for a dual-pitched roof or 3 metres in any other case. Where any part of the building is within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage, the height limit drops to 2.5 metres overall. It must also not stand forward of a wall forming the principal elevation of the original house.

Does a shed need building regulations approval?

Usually not, because of the exemption for small detached buildings in Schedule 2 to the Building Regulations 2010. A detached single-storey building of no more than 30 square metres with no sleeping accommodation is exempt where no point of it is less than one metre from the boundary of its curtilage, or where it is built substantially of non-combustible material. Any detached building of no more than 15 square metres with no sleeping accommodation is exempt wherever it stands. Scotland uses its own warrant exemptions instead.

Can I sleep in my garden office or use it as a spare room?

That takes the building outside the exemption. The building regulations exemption for small detached buildings in England and Wales applies only to buildings containing no sleeping accommodation, so a garden room intended for someone to sleep in is a building that has to comply and be approved. There may be planning consequences too, because a separate dwelling is not incidental to the enjoyment of the house, which is the basis of the permitted development right.

How close to the fence can I put a shed?

Planning and building control give two different answers and you need both. In England, any part of the building within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage is limited to 2.5 metres in height under Class E. Separately, the building regulations exemption for a detached building of up to 30 square metres depends on no point of it being less than one metre from the boundary, unless it is built substantially of non-combustible material or is no more than 15 square metres.

Do the rules differ in Scotland and Northern Ireland?

They do. Scotland's Class 3A permits a maximum height of 4 metres, eaves of 3 metres, 2.5 metres for any part within 1 metre of the boundary, at least half the relevant curtilage left undeveloped, and nothing forward of a principal or side elevation fronting a road. Northern Ireland's Class D sets 4 metres in height, an eaves limit of 2.5 metres within 2 metres of a boundary, a 50 per cent curtilage cap, and a bar on anything within 3.5 metres of a boundary with a road opposite the rear wall.

Can I put electricity in a shed myself?

Running a new circuit out to a garden building is notifiable electrical work in England under regulation 12 of the Building Regulations 2010, and all electrical work in a dwelling must meet Part P. In practice that means using an electrician registered with a competent person scheme, who can self-certify and give you a certificate, or making a building control application. The supply route, the protection and the earthing arrangement for an outbuilding are not a do-it-yourself matter.

Sources

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of shed

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

Size and complexity of the piece or structure
Wood species or material
Custom design compared with standard sizes
Hardware, railings and finishing
Removal of what's there now
Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare shed builders before you hire

Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask shed builders before you hire

Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
What materials will you use, and why?
Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Shed permits and local rules

Some shed work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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