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Home Elevators & Lifts

Home Elevators & Lifts near you

A home lift is what people fit when a stairlift will not do the job: when a wheelchair has to travel between floors, when someone cannot transfer on and off a stair carriage, or when the staircase is too tight and too turned for a rail. British housing makes this harder than it sounds. Victorian and Edwardian houses have half-landings, 1930s semis have a turn at the top, and a great many homes have the only bathroom upstairs, which is usually the reason the conversation starts.

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There are two very different products under the same word. A through-floor lift rises through a hole cut in the bedroom floor and parks flush when it is not in use. A shaft or cabin lift is a self-supporting enclosure that stands in a corner of a room, needs a modest pit or none at all, and looks like a small lift. Both are slow by design, and that slowness is not a limitation but a legal category: a lifting appliance travelling at no more than 0.15 metres per second falls outside the regulations that govern the lift in an office block and sits instead under machinery law.

That matters for what you should be handed at the end. A homelift is supplied as a machine, with a declaration of conformity and a manual, not as a building lift with a periodic inspection regime imposed by the state. The responsibility for keeping it examined and serviced lands on the household, which is exactly why the service contract deserves as much attention as the lift.

Through-floor, shaft and platform: which lift suits which house

  • Through-floor lifts travel through an aperture cut between two storeys and are the usual answer in a house with no spare corner to give up.
  • Shaft or cabin homelifts stand in their own enclosure, take up floor area on both levels, and generally give a smoother ride and a closable door.
  • Vertical platform lifts cover short rises, typically from a garden or drive up to a raised threshold, and are often installed outside.
  • Step lifts handle a single change of level at a front or back door and are a much smaller job than anything travelling between storeys.
  • Stairlifts are a different product entirely, are covered in the accessibility equipment guide on this site, and rarely need building work.
  • Goods-only lifts and dumb waiters carry shopping or laundry rather than people, and are governed by different requirements because nobody rides in them.

Why a homelift is machinery rather than a lift, and what to ask for

The dividing line is speed. Schedule 2 to the Lifts Regulations 2016 lists the excluded lifts, and the first entry is lifting appliances whose speed is not greater than 0.15 metres per second. Domestic homelifts are built to run below that figure, so the Lifts Regulations do not apply to them. What applies instead is the Supply of Machinery (Safety) Regulations 2008, which cover assemblies with a power source and linked moving parts, together with lifting accessories and the chains, ropes and webbing used for lifting.

The British Standard that sits under that arrangement is BS 5900:2012, Powered homelifts with partially enclosed carriers and no liftway enclosures — Specification, published on 30 April 2012 and still current. Its scope is precise: electrically powered homelifts in private dwellings, for people with impaired mobility standing or seated, with or without a wheelchair, travelling vertically between two predefined levels along a guided path at a speed no greater than 0.15 metres per second.

In practice that gives you three things to ask for before signing, and they cost nothing. Ask which standard the lift is declared against. Ask for the declaration of conformity and the conformity marking, not a brochure. And ask what the manufacturer's stated service interval is, because that interval, rather than any statutory schedule, is what your maintenance contract should be written around.

Cutting a hole between two storeys is building work

The lift may be a machine, but the aperture is construction. Forming an opening in a floor means cutting and trimming joists, and that is structural work wherever you live. In England and Wales it engages the Building Regulations, with the structural requirement and the fire requirements both in play, and your building control body — the council or an approved inspector — is the right first call. Many installers handle the notification; make sure you know which of you is doing it.

Scotland runs a different system. Building work there needs a building warrant from the local authority's verifier before it starts, and the application is judged against the Scottish building standards rather than against Approved Documents. Northern Ireland has its own building regulations administered by district councils. If you are outside England and Wales, ask your council directly rather than relying on an installer's description of the English position.

Two other permissions have nothing to do with building control and are missed more often. A flat or maisonette is almost always leasehold, and a lease commonly requires the freeholder's written consent before anything is cut, drilled or fixed. A listed building needs listed building consent for works affecting its character, inside as well as out, and that is dealt with in the major renovations guide on this site. Both are worth settling before a survey is booked.

What a homelift installation actually involves, in order

  • A site survey that measures the ceiling height, the floor construction, the joist direction and the landing position upstairs, not just the footprint.
  • A structural decision about the aperture: which joists are cut, how they are trimmed, and whether anything below needs support while the work is done.
  • A dedicated electrical supply run to the lift position, terminated where the manufacturer specifies rather than into the nearest socket.
  • Floor covering and skirting adjustments at both levels, since carpet, underlay and thresholds all affect how the carriage parks flush.
  • Installation and commissioning by the manufacturer's engineers, usually over a small number of days rather than weeks.
  • A handover pack: the declaration of conformity, the operating manual, the emergency lowering instructions and the service schedule.
  • Building control sign-off for the structural opening, which is the piece most likely to be left dangling once the lift is working.

Examination, entrapment and what happens in a power cut

The question homeowners ask most is whether a home lift needs a statutory six-monthly examination. The honest answer is that it depends who uses it. Regulation 3 of the Lifting Operations and Lifting Equipment Regulations 1998 applies to employers in respect of equipment provided for or used by their employees at work, to self-employed people using lifting equipment at work, and to anyone who controls lifting equipment or its use in connection with a trade or business. A lift used only by the household in a private home is not being used at work, so LOLER does not bite on the householder.

That changes where paid care comes into the house. If a care worker or an employed carer uses the lift as part of their job, their employer has duties over the equipment they control. Regulation 9(3) then sets the interval that gives the six-month figure its currency: lifting equipment for lifting persons, and lifting accessories, must be thoroughly examined at least every six months, other lifting equipment at least every twelve, unless an examination scheme says otherwise. HSE puts it plainly for work settings — where people are being lifted, whether or not the equipment was designed to lift them, six-monthly examination applies.

The everyday safety points are more mundane and more common. Keep the aperture and the parking area clear, because a through-floor lift descending onto a laundry basket is the classic call-out. Understand the manual lowering procedure before you need it, and check that whoever else is in the house does too. Expect door interlocks and a controlled stop, and ask what happens in a power cut: most lifts will lower on battery, but only if the battery has been maintained.

Keeping a home lift reliable year after year

  • Service at the manufacturer's stated interval, and keep the visit reports together; they are the record that matters if the lift is ever sold with the house.
  • Replace the standby battery when the engineer says it is due rather than when it fails, since the battery is what gets you down in a power cut.
  • Keep the floor seal or aperture cover clean and unobstructed, and check it closes fully each time the lift returns to the lower level.
  • Watch for new floor coverings changing the parked height; a thick underlay can be enough to stop a carriage sitting flush.
  • Report unusual noise or a change in travel speed rather than waiting for the next service, because guide-rail problems get worse quickly.
  • Confirm with your buildings insurer that the lift is disclosed, and keep the commissioning paperwork with the policy documents.

What drives a home lift quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

The lift itself is only part of the number. What moves a quotation is the floor construction and how much trimming the aperture needs, the ceiling height and whether there is anything in the void above, the travel distance and number of levels served, whether a wheelchair has to turn inside the carriage, the electrical work needed to reach the position, the making good of floors, ceilings and skirtings at both levels, and the service contract attached to it. A shaft lift standing on a solid ground floor is a different project from a through-floor lift in a house with a shallow first-floor void and a bathroom directly above the landing.

LokalMatch is the introduction, not the installer. Set out the house, the floor you need to reach and who will be using the lift once, with your postcode, and installers working in your area can respond. Using LokalMatch costs homeowners nothing; pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out the work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone who gets in touch, so checking conformity paperwork, building control arrangements and what the service contract covers remains your job.

Home Elevators & Lifts: frequently asked questions

Does a home lift need a six-monthly inspection by law?

Not in a household that uses it privately. Regulation 3 of the Lifting Operations and Lifting Equipment Regulations 1998 attaches duties to employers, self-employed people using equipment at work and those controlling equipment in connection with a trade or business, none of which describes a family using its own lift. Where a paid care worker uses the lift in the course of their job, their employer's duties apply and regulation 9(3) requires thorough examination at least every six months for equipment lifting persons. Either way, servicing at the manufacturer's interval is what keeps the lift working.

Why is my home lift so slow?

Because the speed is a design decision with a legal consequence. Schedule 2 to the Lifts Regulations 2016 excludes lifting appliances whose speed is not greater than 0.15 metres per second, and BS 5900:2012 defines powered homelifts within that same limit. Staying below it keeps the product within the Supply of Machinery (Safety) Regulations 2008 rather than the far heavier regime written for lifts serving buildings, and it is why a domestic lift takes the best part of a minute to move between floors.

Do I need building regulations approval to put a lift between two floors?

In England and Wales, forming an opening in a floor is building work and engages the Building Regulations, so your building control body should be involved before joists are cut. In Scotland a building warrant is needed from the local authority before work starts. Northern Ireland applies its own building regulations through district councils. Agree in writing whether you or the installer is making the application, because an unsigned-off structural opening surfaces later when the house is sold.

What is the difference between a through-floor lift and a stairlift?

A stairlift carries a person seated on a rail fixed to the staircase, leaves the structure of the house alone and can usually be installed in a day. A through-floor lift travels through a new opening between storeys, takes a wheelchair in many cases, and is a building job as well as an installation. The choice is usually decided by whether the person can transfer safely onto a stair carriage and by whether the staircase geometry allows a rail at all.

What paperwork should I be given when a homelift is installed?

A declaration of conformity for the machine, the conformity marking on the lift itself, the operating and maintenance manual, written emergency lowering instructions, the manufacturer's service interval, and the building control completion paperwork for the structural opening. If an installer cannot produce the declaration of conformity or will not say which standard the lift is declared against, that is a reason to keep looking.

Sources

  1. The Lifts Regulations 2016, Schedule 2 (excluded lifts)
  2. The Supply of Machinery (Safety) Regulations 2008, regulation 4
  3. BS 5900:2012, Powered homelifts with partially enclosed carriers and no liftway enclosures — Specification
  4. The Lifting Operations and Lifting Equipment Regulations 1998, regulation 3 (application)
  5. The Lifting Operations and Lifting Equipment Regulations 1998, regulation 9 (thorough examination)
  6. HSE: lifting equipment used for lifting people at work

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of home elevator

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and scope of the job
  • Materials and finishes chosen
  • Condition of what's there now
  • Access to the work area
  • Urgency and scheduling
  • Permits, where required

How to compare elevator installers before you hire

  • Describe the job clearly, with photos if you can, so pros can give you a realistic quote.
  • Get more than one written quote and compare them on the same scope of work.
  • Check that the pro carries liability insurance and, where required, is licensed for this work in your area.
  • Look at recent reviews and photos of similar jobs.
  • Get the price, the timeline and the payment terms in writing before work starts.

Questions to ask elevator installers before you hire

  • Have you done jobs like this before, and can I see examples?
  • What is included in your price, and what isn't?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • When can you start, and how long will the job take?
  • What warranty or guarantee do you offer on your work?

Home elevator permits and local rules

Some home elevator work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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