Whole Home Renovations
Whole Home Renovations near you
A whole-home renovation is the job where the house is emptied rather than worked around. It usually arrives in one of three ways: a property bought at auction or from an estate that has not been touched for decades, a long-held family home being brought up to modern standards in one go, or a house where so many separate projects had queued up that doing them together became cheaper than doing them in sequence. The common feature is that the building is stripped back far enough to see what it is actually made of, and the programme is long enough that the household lives somewhere else.
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Scale changes the legal picture in two directions. Upwards, because the more structural and service work in the project, the more of it falls under the Building Regulations, and the more sense it makes to use a full plans application rather than a building notice. Downwards, because a house that has genuinely stood empty can attract a reduced rate of VAT on the building work, which is one of the few reliefs in British construction a private homeowner can use directly.
The other feature of a back-to-brick refurbishment is what comes out of the walls. Any building built or refurbished before the year 2000 may contain asbestos, and a strip-out is exactly the activity that disturbs it. A whole-house project is therefore planned backwards from the survey and the strip-out, not forwards from the kitchen you have already chosen.
How deep a whole-house refurbishment goes: the levels, and what each one commits you to
Builders and homeowners use the phrase back to brick to mean very different depths of work, and the gap between them is where budgets go wrong. Settling on a level before anyone prices anything is the single most useful hour of the project.
- Cosmetic renewal throughout: new finishes, decoration and fittings in every room, with the existing structure, wiring and pipework left in place.
- Full services renewal: the house rewired and replumbed and the heating replaced, which means lifting floors and chasing walls everywhere, even in rooms where nothing else changes.
- Strip-out to structure: plaster off, floors up, ceilings down, so the frame, the masonry and the timbers can be inspected and repaired before anything goes back.
- Structural remodelling: the strip-out plus changes to the plan, such as removing load-bearing walls, altering the staircase, or bringing a loft or garage into habitable use.
- Fabric and energy work layered on top: insulation, airtightness and ventilation, far easier to get right with the walls open than afterwards.
- External works in the same programme: roof, rainwater goods, windows and repointing, usually best done while scaffolding is already standing.
The 5% VAT rate on a home that has stood empty for two years
Work to an existing building is normally standard-rated for VAT, but HMRC's public notice on buildings and construction sets out a reduced rate of 5% for renovating or altering an eligible dwelling that has not been lived in during the two years immediately before the work starts. The conditions are cumulative: the premises must be qualifying residential premises, they must not have been lived in for two years or more, a valid certificate must be held where one is needed, and the services must be qualifying services.
Two details decide most cases. The first is proof. HMRC says evidence that a building has not been lived in can come from Electoral Roll and Council Tax records, utilities companies, Empty Property Officers in local authorities or any other reliable source, and that a letter from an Empty Property Officer certifying two years empty removes the need for other evidence. The second is the timing test: if the premises have not been lived in during the two years immediately before the work starts, all of the work is reduced-rated even if someone moves in while it is going on, provided they move in after the work starts. But if the premises are already being lived in when work starts, or were lived in during the previous two years, all of the work is standard-rated. Occasional occupation counts as being lived in, so a second home used now and then does not qualify.
There is a separate 5% route for conversions that change the number of dwellings. A qualifying conversion happens where, after the work, the premises contain a greater or lower number of single household dwellings, but not where the number of dwellings in part of the premises is unchanged. HMRC's own worked examples make the limit clear: work unrelated to changing the number of dwellings cannot be reduced-rated, so refurbishing the untouched flats in a block while splitting one of them does not bring the whole job into the reduced rate.
- Reduced-rated on an empty-home renovation: installing building materials, repair, maintenance such as redecoration, and improvements such as constructing an extension or installing double glazing, carried out to the fabric during the renovation.
- Also reduced-rated: work within the immediate site of the dwelling providing water, power, heat, access, drainage, security or waste disposal.
- Standard-rated even on a qualifying job: installing goods that are not building materials, such as carpets or fitted bedroom furniture.
- Standard-rated: erecting and dismantling scaffolding, the hire of goods, landscaping, and professional services from architects, surveyors, consultants and supervisors.
- A trap worth quoting: HMRC says that if you carry out work requiring statutory planning consent or statutory building control and it has not been granted, the work is standard-rated.
- A garage renovated, built or converted at the same time as the dwelling, and intended to be occupied with it, can take the reduced rate too, but a hardstanding cannot unless it is also used as access.
Building control on a whole-house project: one route, many inspections, one certificate
A whole-house refurbishment will almost always contain work that needs building regulations approval, even where planning permission is not in question. GOV.UK's list of alteration projects for which you might need approval reads like a refurbishment schedule in miniature: replacing fuse boxes and connected electrics, installing a bathroom that involves plumbing, changing electrics near a bath or shower, replacing windows and doors, replacing roof coverings on pitched and flat roofs, installing or replacing a heating system, and adding radiators to one. It also warns that work not on the list can still need approval or special rules.
Choose the route deliberately. In England and Wales you may apply to your local council's building control department or to a private registered building control approver, who will give an initial notice to the local authority. For a project of this size a full plans application is the sensible choice: a decision is expected within five weeks, or two months with your consent, and the completion certificate usually follows within eight weeks of the work finishing so long as it complies. A building notice, which lets work start two days after submission but produces no formal approval, is intended for smaller projects.
Where individual elements are installed by a tradesperson registered with a competent person scheme, that installer can self-certify their own work and notify the local authority themselves, and must give you a certificate within eight weeks of completion. Keep those certificates with the completion certificate. GOV.UK notes both that the person doing the work could be prosecuted and fined for not complying with the regulations, and that without approval you will not have the certificates of compliance you may need when you sell.
Sequencing a back-to-brick refurbishment so the trades do not undo each other
The order of a whole-house job is not a matter of taste. Every wet trade has to dry, every service has to be tested before it is buried, and every inspection has to happen while the thing being inspected is still visible. A programme that pulls finishes forward to make the house feel like progress is a programme that will be opened up again.
The broad sequence is: survey and consents; make the building watertight and structurally safe; strip out; structural work and repairs; first fix of electrics, plumbing and heating; insulation and airtightness, with the building control inspection while it can still be seen; plastering; drying; second fix; decoration; and finally floor coverings and anything soft. External work that needs scaffolding is best brought forward so the scaffold is erected and struck once. Nothing about that order is unique to Britain, but two things about British houses complicate it: solid walls and suspended timber floors both need drying time that modern construction does not, and terraces mean shared party structures where noisy work has to be timed around neighbours who did not choose your project.
Plan for the household as well as the building. A whole-house refurbishment is usually the point at which living in the property stops being sensible, and the cost of somewhere else to live for the duration belongs in the budget from the start rather than appearing as a surprise in month three.
Pre-2000 materials and the strip-out: what a survey is actually for
HSE states that asbestos may be part of any commercial or domestic building built or refurbished before the year 2000, and that it was widely used until 1999, when it was banned. A whole-house strip-out is the single most disturbing activity a domestic building will ever experience, which is why the survey question belongs before the demolition quote rather than after it.
The legal position in an owner-occupied home is easy to misread. HSE says that in owner-occupied domestic properties the owners are not legally responsible for risks to contractors from asbestos, because the owners themselves are not engaged in any work activity. That is not the same as saying there is no duty anywhere. The contractor is engaged in a work activity, and the duties under the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012 fall on them. What it means in practice is that the homeowner's protection is commercial rather than statutory: agree in the contract who surveys, who removes, who disposes and who pays, because otherwise a mid-strip-out discovery becomes a mid-strip-out argument.
Disposal is not a detail. HSE notes that asbestos-containing materials must be legally disposed of as hazardous waste, must not be mixed with normal household waste, and that asbestos waste should only be handled by a licensed disposal site, with the local authority able to provide details. Homeowners are advised not to try to repair or remove asbestos materials themselves without training for non-licensed work, and can seek advice from an environmental health officer at their local council.
When a domestic project becomes notifiable to HSE, and what a construction phase plan is
Most domestic renovations never cross the notification threshold, but a large whole-house project with several trades running at once occasionally does, and it is worth knowing where the line sits. Regulation 6 of CDM 2015 makes a project notifiable if the construction work on a construction site is scheduled either to last longer than 30 working days and have more than 20 workers working simultaneously at any point in the project, or to exceed 500 person days. Where a project is notifiable, notice in writing must be given to the Executive as soon as is practicable before the construction phase begins, and the notice has to be displayed in the site office in a comprehensible form where workers can read it, and updated if necessary.
On a domestic project that obligation travels with the rest of the client duties. HSE states that a domestic client's duties pass automatically to the contractor on a single contractor project, or to the principal contractor where there is more than one, or to a designer who has taken them on under a written agreement and thereby become principal designer. So the practical step for a homeowner is not to file the notice, but to ask who is responsible for deciding whether one is needed.
Separately, and regardless of notification, regulation 15 requires that where there is only one contractor on the project, that contractor must draw up a construction phase plan, or make arrangements for one to be drawn up, as soon as is practicable before setting up a construction site. A contractor who cannot say what their construction phase plan covers on a project of this size is telling you something useful.
The document pack a whole-house renovation should leave behind
The end of a whole-house project is a pile of paper as much as a finished house, and it is the pile a buyer's solicitor will interrogate years later. Assemble it as the work proceeds rather than trying to reconstruct it afterwards, when the electrician has changed company and the building control officer has retired.
- The completion certificate from the building control body, or the regularisation certificate where work was approved retrospectively.
- Certificates from any competent person scheme installers, which GOV.UK notes show up in solicitors' searches.
- The electrical installation certificate for the rewire, and the Gas Safe paperwork for any gas appliance work.
- The planning decision notice, or a lawful development certificate where the work relied on permitted development.
- Listed building consent and any conditions attached to it, where the building is listed.
- Any party wall award, and the schedule of condition taken before work started.
- Structural engineer's calculations and drawings for beams, openings and underpinning.
- Manufacturer warranties, the asbestos survey and disposal paperwork, and the final agreed specification with its variations.
The same house in Scotland or Northern Ireland: different consent, same VAT
Building control is devolved and the route changes with the border. GOV.UK's building regulations guidance covers England and Wales and states there are different rules in Scotland and Northern Ireland. A Scottish whole-house refurbishment goes through a building warrant from the council before work starts, with a completion certificate submitted afterwards. A Northern Irish one goes through district council building control under the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012.
VAT, by contrast, is a UK-wide tax, so the 5% reduced rate for a dwelling that has not been lived in for two years applies to an empty house in Aberdeen or Armagh on the same terms as one in Manchester. Note the HMRC condition that bites in every nation: where work requires statutory planning consent or statutory building control and it has not been granted, the work is standard-rated. Getting the consent right is not only a compliance question.
Whole Home Renovations: frequently asked questions
Can I really pay 5% VAT on renovating an empty house?
You can where the conditions in HMRC's buildings and construction notice are met. The dwelling must be qualifying residential premises that have not been lived in during the two years immediately before the work starts, the services must be qualifying services, and a valid certificate must be held where one is needed. Occasional occupation counts as being lived in, so a second home used now and then will not qualify. Proof can come from Electoral Roll and Council Tax records, utilities companies or an Empty Property Officer at the council.
Which parts of an empty-home renovation stay at the standard rate?
HMRC lists them. Installing goods that are not building materials, such as carpets or fitted bedroom furniture, stays standard-rated, as does erecting and dismantling scaffolding, the hire of goods, landscaping, and professional services from architects, surveyors, consultants and supervisors. There is also a clear warning that work requiring statutory planning consent or statutory building control which has not been granted is standard-rated.
Should a whole-house project use a building notice or a full plans application?
Full plans, in almost every case. GOV.UK describes a building notice as being for smaller projects only, with work able to start two days after submission and no formal approval at the end of it. Full plans is the thorough option, with a decision expected within five weeks or two months with your consent, and a completion certificate usually issued within eight weeks of completion provided the work complies. On a project involving structure and services throughout, that certificate is what you will want when you sell.
Do I need an asbestos survey before a strip-out?
It is the sensible starting point, because HSE states asbestos may be part of any building built or refurbished before the year 2000. In an owner-occupied home HSE says the owner is not legally responsible for risks to contractors, because the owner is not engaged in a work activity, but the contractor is, and their duties are real. Agree in the contract who surveys, who removes and who disposes. Asbestos waste is hazardous waste and should only be handled by a licensed disposal site.
Does my renovation have to be notified to the Health and Safety Executive?
Only if it crosses the threshold in regulation 6 of CDM 2015: construction work scheduled to last longer than 30 working days and to have more than 20 workers working simultaneously at any point, or to exceed 500 person days. Very few domestic projects reach either. Where a project is notifiable, notice must be given in writing before the construction phase begins, and on a domestic project that duty has passed to the contractor or principal contractor along with the other client duties.
How long should I expect to be out of the house?
Long enough that it belongs in the budget rather than in the hoping. The controlling factors are drying time after wet trades, the sequence of inspections that have to happen while work is still visible, and how much structural work is involved. Solid-walled houses with suspended timber floors generally need more drying time than modern construction. Ask the contractor for a programme showing inspection points and drying periods, not just a finish date.
Sources
- HMRC: Buildings and construction (VAT Notice 708), sections 7 and 8
- GOV.UK: Building regulations approval
- GOV.UK: Building regulations approval - how to apply (full plans, building notice, regularisation, fees)
- HSE: Asbestos frequently asked questions
- Construction (Design and Management) Regulations 2015, regulation 6 (notification)
- Construction (Design and Management) Regulations 2015, regulation 15 (duties of contractors)
- HSE: Domestic clients - roles and responsibilities under CDM 2015
- mygov.scot: Getting a building warrant
- Department of Finance: Building Regulations in Northern Ireland
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of whole home renovation
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and scope of the project
- Structural changes, such as moving or removing walls
- Plumbing, electrical and HVAC work involved
- Finishes and materials chosen
- Design, drawings and permits
- Condition of the existing house once it's opened up
- Access to the site and the timeline
How to compare general contractors before you hire
- Look for a contractor who has finished projects similar in size and type to yours, and ask to see them.
- Get a written contract with the scope, the payment schedule, the timeline and how changes will be priced.
- Ask who will manage the job day to day and how often you'll get updates.
- Check that they carry liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage, and that their trades are licensed where required.
- Compare quotes on the same scope, and ask what each one leaves out.
- For structural changes, make sure an engineer or designer is involved where needed.
Questions to ask general contractors before you hire
- Who will pull the permits, and who will be there for inspections?
- Which parts of the job will you do yourselves, and which will go to subcontractors?
- How do you handle change orders and unexpected problems once walls are open?
- What is the payment schedule, and what is each payment tied to?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship, and is it in writing?
- Can I speak with a few of your recent clients?
Whole home renovation permits and local rules
Some whole home renovation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingGuides about whole home renovation
- ✦
Builders guide
A general contractor — usually called a builder or a main contractor in British usage — plans a project, prices it, brings in the trades and answers for the finished work.
Read guide - ✦
Home Renovations guide
A home renovation is work that improves a house you already own rather than building a new one: reconfiguring rooms, replacing tired services, opening up a dark ground floor, insulating a cold rear wall, or putting…
Read guide - ✦
House Extensions guide
In British usage a home addition is an extension, and it is the most common large project carried out on a house here.
Read guide
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