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Radon Testing & Mitigation

Radon Testing & Mitigation near you

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas formed in the ground, and it seeps into buildings through floors, service entries and gaps in the structure. You cannot see it, smell it or taste it, so the only way to know what a particular house has is to measure it. That is the central fact of this service: everything else — maps, geology, what the neighbours say — is background, and a measurement is the only thing that produces a number for your address.

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The United Kingdom uses two figures, both recommended by the UK Health Security Agency and endorsed by government. The Action Level is 200 becquerels per cubic metre: radon levels should be reduced in homes where the annual average is at or above that figure. The Target Level is 100 becquerels per cubic metre, described as the ideal outcome for remediation works in existing buildings and for protective measures in new ones. Remediation aims at the Target Level even when it is triggered by the Action Level.

The good news for homeowners is that the fix is usually mechanical and undramatic. An active sump with a fan is the most effective way to reduce indoor radon levels, and in a house built since the early 1990s in a high-radon area there may already be a standby sump outside the wall waiting for a fan to be fitted to it.

The Action Level, the Target Level, and what they mean for a house

UKHSA recommends, and the government has endorsed, that radon levels should be reduced in homes where the average is more than 200 becquerels per cubic metre. That is the Action Level, and it is the threshold at which remedial work is recommended rather than optional in any practical sense. It is expressed as an annual average, which is why a measurement has to run long enough to represent a year rather than a week.

The Target Level of 100 becquerels per cubic metre is the second figure and the more useful one when you are commissioning work. UKHSA describes it as the ideal outcome for remediation works in existing buildings and protective measures in new buildings, so a mitigation scheme that gets a house from 400 down to 190 has cleared the Action Level but has not reached the standard the work should be aiming at.

Both figures are about long-term exposure. Radon concentration varies through the day and between rooms, rises when a house is shut up and falls when it is ventilated, so a single short reading is close to meaningless. The measurement protocol exists precisely to average that variation out.

What the radon map does and does not tell you

The UK radon maps show the estimated probability of radon levels exceeding the Action Level across an area: the darker the colour, the greater the chance of a higher level, ranging from less than one home in a hundred in white areas to greater than one in three in the darkest. That is a statement about the chance that homes in an area are affected, not a statement about your house. A house in a white area can be above the Action Level and a house in a dark area can be well below it.

An address search is more precise but still probabilistic. A report tells you the estimated probability of being above the Action Level, based on detailed grid data, and it answers one of the standard legal enquiries used on house purchase in England and Wales. Some searches are run on postcode rather than full address, in which case they return the maximum radon potential for any property with that postcode — an indicative worst case rather than a result for your building.

Two caveats matter. The map should not be used for basements, cellars or underground sites, all of which should be treated as having an increased chance of high radon levels regardless of location. And coverage differs across the UK: UKHSA and the British Geological Survey published an updated map for England, Wales and Scotland on 2 December 2022, the first substantial update in over a decade, while the map for Northern Ireland was last updated in 2015 and was not changed by that work.

How a home measurement is actually done

  • The detector is a passive device: a hollow plastic shell containing a piece of clear plastic that records the damage caused by radon, so it emits nothing and collects nothing dangerous.
  • A domestic pack contains two detectors, one for the living area and one for an occupied bedroom, so the measurement reflects where people actually spend their time.
  • Place them on a shelf or piece of furniture, or hang them, preferably at breathing height and off the floor, away from direct sunlight, heat sources, windows and draughts.
  • The test runs for three months, which is what allows the result to be adjusted to a yearly average rather than reflecting one unusual fortnight.
  • The detectors go back in the pre-paid envelope for laboratory analysis, and the result tells you the yearly average level and whether it is above or below the Action Level.
  • UKHSA's own UKradon service supplies home measurement packs; the published charge for the domestic pack was £52.80 including VAT when this page was last checked.
  • Do not change how you live in the house during the test period — deliberately ventilating more than usual produces a comfortable number and a misleading one.

Sump, positive ventilation or underfloor ventilation

An active radon sump, fitted with a fan, is the most effective way to reduce indoor radon levels, and it is the first choice where there is a concrete groundbearing slab or a concrete capping to the soil beneath a suspended timber floor. It works by creating a pressure difference beneath the floor so that soil gas is drawn to the sump and exhausted outside rather than being drawn into the house.

Positive house ventilation is the alternative where a sump is impractical. A small quiet fan blows fresh air, usually from the roof space, into the building, diluting the radon already indoors and slightly pressurising the house against further ingress. It is less powerful than an active sump and is generally used where levels are moderately above the Action Level rather than far above it.

Underfloor ventilation applies where there is a suspended timber floor over an open void. Many British homes have exactly that, and improving the natural ventilation of the void — clearing and adding airbricks, removing debris that blocks cross-flow — can reduce concentrations on its own. Where natural ventilation is not enough, a fan is used to blow air into or extract air from the space below the floor. Sump systems are not appropriate for timber floors laid directly over bare earth unless the soil is capped first.

What a radon sump is, and how much floor one covers

  • A sump is simply a cavity beneath the floor into which a pipe is inserted; the void keeps loose fill from blocking the pipe and lets suction spread through the material under the slab.
  • An active system needs an excavation of roughly bucket size — about ten litres — beneath the ground floor, pipework to link it to a fan, and an exhaust discharging outdoors.
  • A passive sump relies on the stack effect and wind rather than a fan, which avoids running costs but is much less effective at reducing radon than an active one.
  • For most houses a single sump and fan influences an area of about 250 square metres, roughly a nine metre radius around the sump, and in very permeable subsoil it may reach further.
  • Externally constructed sumps are less disruptive; internally constructed ones can be placed more centrally and are usually more effective, at the cost of working inside the house.
  • The sump should not be sited near an open-flued appliance such as an open fire, a gas fire or a boiler drawing air from the room, because it must not pull flue gases indoors.
  • Homes with solid concrete floors built since the early 1990s in high-radon areas may already have a standby sump, visible as a short capped 110 millimetre pipe just outside the wall, which can be activated by adding a fan.

Fans, retesting and what to do if levels stay high

  • Retest after remediation, because the point of the work is a number and the only way to know the number is to measure it again.
  • Retest periodically afterwards, and again after any work that changes the floor, the ventilation or the airtightness of the house.
  • Fans are consumable. Know where yours is, keep it powered, and plan to replace it rather than assume it will run forever.
  • Site the fan away from frequently occupied rooms to keep noise out of living rooms and bedrooms.
  • If levels remain above target, the options include a second sump linked to the same fan by extending the pipework, or a separate system targeting the problem area.
  • Larger or older houses occasionally need more than one sump, particularly where obstructions beneath the slab limit how far the suction spreads.
  • Your council's environmental health department may be able to offer advice if a system is not performing as expected.

What drives a radon mitigation quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Construction decides the method and the method decides the price. The variables are whether the ground floor is a solid slab, a suspended timber floor over a void or a mixture across the footprint; whether a sump can be formed externally or has to be built inside; how far pipework has to run to reach an acceptable exhaust position; whether there is an existing standby sump that only needs a fan; how many separate areas or extensions the house has; the electrical work needed to supply the fan; and whether more than one sump turns out to be needed. Measurement is a separate and much smaller cost from mitigation.

LokalMatch is the introduction and no more than that. Post the reading you have, the type of ground floor and your postcode, and contractors who do radon work in your area will contact you. Homeowners are never charged; the pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not measure radon, does not install anything, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend the businesses that reply, so ask each of them what level they expect to achieve and how that will be verified.

Radon Testing & Mitigation: frequently asked questions

What are the UK radon Action Level and Target Level?

The Action Level is 200 becquerels per cubic metre and the Target Level is 100. UKHSA recommends, with government endorsement, that radon levels should be reduced in homes where the average is more than 200 Bq per cubic metre, and it describes the Target Level of 100 as the ideal outcome for remediation works in existing buildings and for protective measures in new ones. Both are annual averages rather than instantaneous readings.

The map shows my area as low risk. Do I still need to test?

The map shows the estimated probability of homes in an area exceeding the Action Level, from less than one in a hundred in white areas to greater than one in three in the darkest, and that is not a prediction for your individual house. It also should not be used at all for basements, cellars or underground sites, which are treated as having an increased chance of high levels regardless of location. If you have a below-ground room in use, measure it.

How long does a radon test take?

Three months. The detectors are passive plastic devices that record cumulative damage caused by radon, and the three-month period allows the result to be converted into a yearly average rather than reflecting whatever the weather and the household were doing in one particular week. A domestic pack has two detectors, one for the living area and one for an occupied bedroom, placed at breathing height away from sunlight, heat and draughts.

What is the most effective way to reduce radon in an existing house?

An active radon sump fitted with a fan, where the floor construction allows one. It is described as the most effective method, particularly in homes with the highest concentrations, and it suits solid concrete floors or suspended floors with a concrete or membrane capping over the soil. Where that is not possible, positive house ventilation from the roof space, or natural or fan-assisted underfloor ventilation, are the usual alternatives.

My house was built in the 1990s. Might it already have a sump?

Quite possibly. Properties with solid concrete floors built since roughly the early 1990s in areas where radon risk is greatest are likely to have been built with preventive measures, sometimes including a standby sump. It shows up as a short length of capped 110 millimetre pipe close to the outside of the building, and the original drawings may mark its position. If one exists, it can be activated simply by adding a fan to the pipe.

Does radon get checked when I buy a house?

A radon search is part of the standard legal enquiries on house purchase in England and Wales, but it reports the estimated probability of the address being above the Action Level rather than the actual level in the building. Some searches are based on postcode and return the worst case for any property sharing it. If the search flags a meaningful probability, a three-month measurement after you move in is the only way to get a real number.

Sources

  1. UKradon (UKHSA): radon Action Level and Target Level
  2. UKradon (UKHSA): UK maps of radon
  3. UKradon (UKHSA): measuring radon in the home
  4. UKradon (UKHSA): reducing radon levels
  5. UKradon (UKHSA): radon searches for house purchase
  6. GOV.UK: UKHSA and BGS publish updated radon map for Great Britain (2 December 2022)
  7. BRE Good Repair Guide 37 Part 3: radon solutions in homes, radon sump systems

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of radon

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Interior or exterior approach
  • Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
  • Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
  • Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
  • Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
  • Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
  • Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed

How to compare radon specialists before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
  • Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
  • For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
  • For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
  • Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.

Questions to ask radon specialists before you hire

  • Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
  • Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
  • Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
  • How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
  • If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?

When to call a pro for radon

  • Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
  • Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
  • Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
  • Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.

Radon permits and local rules

Some radon work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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