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Foundation Cracks

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Almost every British house cracks. Plaster shrinks, lintels deflect, render crazes, extensions move against the original building, and a long dry summer opens joints that close again over the winter. The useful question is never whether a wall has cracked, but whether something structural has moved, whether it is still moving, and what caused it.

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The standard the structure is judged against is in Schedule 1 to the Building Regulations 2010. Requirement A1 says the building shall be constructed so that the combined dead, imposed and wind loads are sustained and transmitted by it to the ground safely, and without causing such deflection or deformation of any part of the building, or such movement of the ground, as will impair the stability of any part of another building. Requirement A2 deals with ground movement caused by swelling, shrinkage or freezing of the subsoil, or by land-slip or subsidence.

Cracks also let the weather in. Approved Document C warns that severe rain penetration may occur through cracks in masonry external walls caused by thermal movement in hot weather or subsidence after prolonged droughts, which describes a British summer and the autumn that follows it rather well.

Which cracks in a British house need looking at

  • Cracks that pass through bricks or blocks as well as the mortar, rather than following the joints around them.
  • Cracks that are noticeably wider at one end, which suggests one part of the wall has rotated or dropped relative to another.
  • Cracking that shows inside and outside in the same place, especially where it runs diagonally from the corner of a window or door.
  • New cracking that appears suddenly rather than gradually, or that widens measurably over weeks.
  • Cracks accompanied by doors or windows binding, floors sloping or skirtings pulling away in the same part of the house.
  • Cracking where an extension, bay or porch meets the original building, which often reflects two different foundation depths rather than a fault.
  • Fine, map-like crazing on render or plaster, which is usually a surface and finish problem rather than a structural one.
  • Horizontal cracking following a regular course in a cavity wall, which can indicate corroding wall ties rather than ground movement.

Why British cracks open in summer and close in winter

Shrinkable clay underlies a great deal of England, and clay gives up water in a dry spell and takes it back in a wet one. A foundation sitting in that clay rides the movement, and a wall above it opens and closes a crack on an annual cycle. That is why Approved Document A ties foundation depth on clay to vegetation as well as soil: strip foundations should be taken to a depth where anticipated ground movements will not impair stability, with due consideration of the influence of vegetation and trees, and with minimum depths on clay of 0.75m, 0.9m and 1.0m for low, medium and high shrinkage clay soils respectively, increased where there are trees nearby.

Older houses were often built shallower than any of those figures, which is not a defect in a building that has stood for a century but does explain why a drought year produces a crop of new cracks in Victorian and Edwardian streets and few in the modern estate next door. It also explains why the same crack can look alarming in September and unremarkable the following April.

Not every crack is ground movement at all. Thermal expansion of a long wall, a deflecting lintel over an opening, corroding wall ties, sulphate attack on render, shrinkage in a new extension and simple plaster movement all produce convincing cracks. A diagnosis that jumps straight to subsidence without considering these is not a diagnosis.

Monitoring before repair: how movement is actually investigated

The point of monitoring is to separate movement that has finished from movement that is continuing, and seasonal movement from progressive movement. That means readings taken at intervals over a period long enough to include both a dry and a wet season, recorded consistently, rather than an opinion formed on a single visit. Alongside it, an investigation should look at the drains near the affected corner, the trees and vegetation within influencing distance, the depth and condition of the footing and the soil it sits on.

GOV.UK's land stability guidance expects assessment of ground instability to be prepared by an appropriately qualified person, such as a chartered member of a relevant professional institution. For a house, that normally means a structural engineer, and it is worth being clear whether the person writing your report is one, and whether they have any interest in the repair that follows.

When you are ready for quotations, LokalMatch puts one description of the job in front of several firms: say what the cracking looks like, when you first noticed it, what any monitoring or engineer's report concluded, and give your postcode, and contractors covering your area get in touch. They pay for the requests they receive, homeowners do not. LokalMatch neither carries out repairs nor sets prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so comparing what each quotation actually includes, and on what diagnosis it rests, remains with you.

Filling the crack, or fixing what moved

Filling and redecorating is the right end of the job, not the whole of it. Where movement has genuinely stopped, and where the cause has been identified and dealt with, making good the crack is ordinary building work and there is no reason to do anything more elaborate. Where movement is continuing, the filler simply cracks again and the money is gone.

The sequence that works is cause, then stability, then repair, then decoration. If a leaking drain was washing out the ground, the drain is repaired first. If vegetation was drying the clay, that is dealt with on engineering advice. If the footing itself is inadequate and the building is genuinely bearing badly, structural work is designed by an engineer, and that work is building work in its own right where it involves underpinning.

Be wary of two shortcuts. One is a repair specified before any monitoring has been done, which is a guess with a price attached. The other is a cosmetic repair sold as a structural cure, which can matter later: a buyer's surveyor is likely to ask what caused the cracking and what was done about it, and a filled crack with no explanation behind it invites exactly the questions you would rather have answered in advance.

Party walls, building control and crack repairs

Ordinary making-good of your own wall is not usually a notifiable event, but two thresholds are worth knowing. Underpinning a building is building work under regulation 3(1)(f) of the Building Regulations 2010, so where a crack repair turns into foundation work it engages building control, and approval comes from a building control body, either the local authority's building control department or a private registered building control approver.

The second threshold is the party wall. In England and Wales, section 2(2) of the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 gives a building owner the right to make good, repair, or demolish and rebuild, a party structure or party fence wall in a case where such work is necessary on account of defect or want of repair, and to underpin, thicken or raise a party structure. Exercising those rights requires a party structure notice under section 3, served at least two months before the date on which the proposed work will begin.

If the repair involves excavating near the neighbour's building, section 6 applies as well, with its three metre and six metre tests and at least one month's notice before excavation begins. GOV.UK's explanatory booklet is clear that the Act is separate from planning or building regulations control, so a building owner with approval under one still has to follow the procedures under the other.

How cracked masonry is actually repaired

  • Raking out and repointing, where the cracking has followed the mortar joints and the units themselves are sound.
  • Cutting out and replacing individual damaged bricks or blocks, matching the existing masonry as closely as the building allows.
  • Rebuilding a section of wall where the cracking is too wide or the masonry too disturbed for local repair.
  • Stitching or tying across a crack, designed by an engineer for that wall rather than chosen from a catalogue.
  • Replacing failed wall ties where horizontal cracking on a regular course points to them rather than to the ground.
  • Repairing or replacing a deflecting or corroded lintel over an opening where cracking radiates from its ends.
  • Forming or reinstating a movement joint in long stretches of masonry that have cracked through thermal movement.
  • Making good the finishes last, once the structure has been dealt with and movement has stopped.

When cracking is urgent rather than merely worrying

Most cracking in British houses is slow, seasonal and undramatic. A small number of situations are not, and they deserve a different response: cracking that appears suddenly and widens over days, a wall that is visibly bulging or leaning, a lintel or beam that has dropped, cracking that follows an impact, a fire, an escape of water or nearby excavation, or any crack accompanied by floors moving underfoot.

In those cases stop work that might be making it worse, keep people away from the affected area, and get a structural engineer to look at it quickly. Your local authority's building control department is also the right place to raise a building that appears to be in a dangerous condition. Excavation nearby is worth taking seriously in its own right: HSE warns that no ground can be relied upon to stand unsupported in all circumstances, and that excavations should not undermine the foundations of nearby buildings or walls, noting that many garden or boundary walls have very shallow foundations which are easily undermined by even small trenches.

Take dated photographs with something for scale before anything is disturbed, and keep them. Whether the matter ends with an engineer, a contractor or an insurer, a clear record of what the crack looked like and when is the single most useful thing a homeowner can produce.

Foundation Cracks: frequently asked questions

Are cracks in my walls a sign of subsidence?

Usually not. Thermal movement, a deflecting lintel, corroding wall ties, shrinkage in new plaster or render, and an extension moving against the original building all crack walls without any ground movement at all. The features that point towards structural movement are cracks that pass through the masonry units rather than the joints, that are wider at one end, that appear inside and outside in the same place, and that are accompanied by doors binding or floors sloping in the same part of the house.

Why do my cracks get worse in summer?

Because shrinkable clay gives up water in dry weather and the ground moves as a result. Approved Document C specifically warns that severe rain penetration may occur through cracks in masonry external walls caused by thermal movement in hot weather or subsidence after prolonged droughts. Approved Document A ties foundation depths on clay soils to the shrinkage potential of the clay and the influence of vegetation and trees, which is why older, shallower foundations show the effect most.

Do I need a structural engineer, or will a builder do?

For anything you suspect is movement, get the diagnosis from someone whose job is diagnosis. GOV.UK's land stability guidance expects assessment to be carried out by an appropriately qualified person such as a chartered member of a relevant professional institution. A builder repairs what has been diagnosed; an engineer establishes what moved, whether it is still moving and what the remedy needs to achieve. Where the same firm both diagnoses and sells the cure, it is reasonable to get a second opinion.

Do I have to give notice to repair a cracked party wall?

In England and Wales, yes, where you are exercising rights under the Act. Section 2(2) of the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 covers making good, repairing, or demolishing and rebuilding a party structure where the work is necessary on account of defect or want of repair, as well as underpinning it, and section 3 requires a party structure notice at least two months before the work begins. If the work also involves excavating near your neighbour's building, section 6 requires at least one month's notice before excavation.

Can I just fill the crack and paint over it?

Only once you know the movement has stopped and why it happened. Filling a live crack wastes the work, and a cosmetic repair with no explanation behind it tends to resurface when the house is surveyed for a sale. The right order is to establish the cause, deal with it, allow the structure to stabilise, repair the masonry and then make good the finishes. If nobody has monitored the crack across a dry and a wet season, that order has not been followed.

How does LokalMatch help with crack repairs?

You write down what you are seeing once, and firms covering your postcode come to you rather than the other way round. The pros pay for the requests they receive; you do not. LokalMatch does not do the repair, does not set the price, and does not vet, rank or recommend anybody, so ask each firm what it thinks caused the cracking, what evidence supports that, and whether any party wall notice or building control approval is needed for what it proposes.

Sources

  1. Schedule 1 to the Building Regulations 2010: requirements A1 and A2
  2. Approved Document A, 2013 edition: foundation depths on shrinkable clay soils
  3. Approved Document C, 2013 edition: cracking of external walls and rain penetration
  4. Party Wall etc. Act 1996, section 2: rights of the building owner
  5. Party Wall etc. Act 1996, section 3: party structure notices
  6. GOV.UK: The Party Wall etc. Act 1996 explanatory booklet
  7. Building Regulations 2010, regulation 3: meaning of building work
  8. GOV.UK: Land stability (planning practice guidance)
  9. HSE: excavations in construction
  10. GOV.UK: Building regulations approval

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of foundation crack repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Interior or exterior approach
  • Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
  • Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
  • Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
  • Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
  • Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
  • Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed

How to compare foundation contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
  • Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
  • For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
  • For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
  • Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.

Questions to ask foundation contractors before you hire

  • Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
  • Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
  • Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
  • How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
  • If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?

When to call a pro for foundation crack repair

  • Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
  • Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
  • Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
  • Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.

Foundation crack repair permits and local rules

Some foundation crack repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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