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Structural Repair

Structural Repair near you

Structural repair is work on the parts of a house that carry load: lintels over openings, the ties that hold the two leaves of a cavity wall together, bressummer beams over old shop fronts and inglenooks, joist ends built into damp masonry, arches, and the chimney stack that has been leaning since the last gale. Almost all British housing stock is loadbearing masonry rather than a timber or steel frame, so a structural defect here usually shows as masonry doing something it should not: bulging, spreading, dropping over an opening, or separating along a line.

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That is a different subject from ground movement. If the ground under the footing is moving, the page you want is the one on underpinning. Structural repair starts above the foundation and deals with elements that have failed on their own account — corroded steel, rotted timber, an opening cut without a proper lintel, a wall left without lateral restraint after a chimney breast was taken out.

The reason to take diagnosis seriously is that the law has a sharp end here that it does not have for decorating. A local authority can compel work on a building it considers dangerous, and in an emergency it can do the work itself and send the owner the bill. Knowing that changes how you read a surveyor's letter recommending immediate attention.

The structural repairs British houses actually need

  • Wall tie replacement, where the original ties between the leaves of a cavity wall have corroded and expanded, lifting the outer leaf along regular horizontal joints.
  • Lintel repair or replacement over a window, door or garage opening, including openings that were formed years ago with nothing adequate over them.
  • Crack stitching and re-bonding, where helical bars or bed-joint reinforcement are used to tie masonry back together across a fracture.
  • Lateral restraint work: strapping floors and roofs back to walls, most often needed where a chimney breast was removed and the remaining stack lost its support.
  • Beam replacement and the repair of bearings where a timber or steel member has rotted or corroded at the point where it sits in the wall.
  • Bulging and bowing wall repair, from tie bars and pattress plates through to taking down and rebuilding a section of masonry.
  • Chimney stack rebuilding, and the repair of parapets and gables that have been loosened by sulphate attack or by repeated wetting.
  • Repair to floors that deflect or bounce, which is sometimes a joist problem and sometimes a support problem underneath it.

Telling a structural crack from a cosmetic one

  • Cracks that pass through both the plaster and the brickwork or blockwork behind it, rather than stopping at the surface finish.
  • A crack that is wider at one end than the other, which suggests rotation rather than simple shrinkage.
  • Regular horizontal cracking at roughly even vertical spacing on one elevation, the classic pattern of corroding wall ties.
  • A step or ledge you can feel with a fingertip, where one side of the crack has moved out of plane with the other.
  • Doors and windows that bind in the same corner of the house, and frames that have gone visibly out of square.
  • Sagging or dishing over an opening, or a lintel that has dropped enough to nip the window frame underneath it.
  • Any crack that is still opening after you have marked and dated its ends and left it for a season.

When the council can order the work: dangerous building powers

In England and Wales this sits in the Building Act 1984. Section 77 says that if it appears to a local authority that a building or structure, or part of one, is in such a condition, or is used to carry such loads, as to be dangerous, the authority may apply to the appropriate court or tribunal. Where the danger comes from the condition of the building, the court can order the owner either to carry out the work needed to remove the danger or to demolish the structure and clear the debris. Where the danger comes from overloading, the court can restrict the use of the building until it is satisfied the necessary work has been done. If the owner does not comply in time, the authority may do the work and recover its costs, and non-compliance can also attract a fine.

Section 78 is the emergency route and is the one that catches owners out. Where immediate action is needed, the authority can act first and recover from the owner the expenses reasonably incurred. There are limits: it cannot recover the cost of fencing or watching the building once the danger has been removed by other means, and a court that decides the authority should have used the section 77 procedure instead can refuse the expenses altogether.

Scotland has its own provision. Section 29 of the Building (Scotland) Act 2003 requires the local authority to carry out such work, including demolition if necessary, as it considers necessary to protect the public where a building constitutes a danger, and allows it to act after whatever notice to the owner the circumstances permit. It can recover its reasonable expenses from the owner, and it does not need a building warrant to do that work. Northern Ireland runs its own building control system and its own dangerous-structure powers, so check locally there rather than assuming the English route.

The order a structural repair is done in

Nothing useful happens before somebody has said what moved and why. That means a structural engineer's inspection and, where the movement may still be live, a period of monitoring with tell-tales or levels before a scheme is designed. Paying for the diagnosis separately from the repair is the single most valuable thing a homeowner does on this kind of job, because it means the person deciding what is needed is not the person selling it.

Then comes temporary support. Propping, needling and shoring are designed as carefully as the permanent work, because taking load off a wall in the wrong order is how a manageable repair becomes a collapse. Only after the load path is secure does the failed element come out, get replaced or strengthened, and get built back in.

Finishing is last and is deliberately delayed. Masonry repairs settle, resin grouts cure, and newly built-in beams take up their load over days rather than minutes. Replastering and decorating over a repair that has not finished moving is the commonest reason a homeowner ends up paying for the same wall twice.

Building control, and who signs the work off

  • In England and Wales, structural alteration is building work under the Building Regulations 2010, so replacing a lintel, forming or enlarging an opening or removing a loadbearing element normally needs building control, either through the local authority or a registered building control approver.
  • Like-for-like repair of an existing element is treated differently from alteration, and the safest route is to ask building control before the scaffold goes up rather than after.
  • In Scotland a building warrant is required for building work to which the regulations apply, with a list of exempted work in schedule 3 to the Building (Scotland) Regulations 2004; structural work is not the kind of thing that sits comfortably in that list, so assume a warrant and check with the verifier.
  • Northern Ireland has its own building regulations and building control service, and the application route there is not the English one.
  • If the property is listed, or in a conservation area, structural repair can also need listed building consent, and that is a separate application from building control.
  • Keep the engineer's design, the calculations and the completion certificate together: they are what a buyer's surveyor will ask for, sometimes many years later.

What a guarantee on structural work is actually worth

  • Ask who is giving the guarantee: the contractor, a product manufacturer, or an insurance-backed scheme that survives the contractor going out of business.
  • Check what it covers — the fixing, or the outcome. A tie bar guaranteed not to corrode is not the same as a wall guaranteed not to move again.
  • A guarantee that excludes further movement from the original cause is close to worthless if the cause was never dealt with.
  • Written engineering sign-off at completion is generally more persuasive to a future buyer's surveyor than a contractor's certificate.
  • Keep photographs taken during the work, especially of anything that will be hidden: bearings, straps, reinforcement and the condition of what came out.
  • If the repair followed an insurance claim, ask the insurer for confirmation of what was done, because a later buyer's lender may ask for it.

What drives a structural repair quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Access and temporary works usually cost more than the repair itself. What moves a quotation is how high the element sits, whether scaffolding or a tower is needed and for how long, how much propping and needling the load path requires, whether the wall can be worked on from outside or the household has to move out of a room, how much of the failed element is hidden until it is opened up, and whether an engineer is designing and inspecting as the work proceeds. A lintel at ground floor level in an accessible wall and the same lintel at second floor over a bay are not comparable jobs.

LokalMatch is the introduction, not the builder. Set out the symptoms, the age and construction of the house and your postcode once, and firms that cover your area come back to you. Using LokalMatch costs homeowners nothing; pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out structural work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone who replies, so satisfy yourself about insurance, engineering input and building control before you commit.

Structural Repair: frequently asked questions

Can the council make me repair my own house?

Yes, where it considers the building dangerous. Under section 77 of the Building Act 1984 a local authority in England or Wales can apply to the court, which can order the owner to carry out the work needed to remove the danger or to demolish and clear the site, and can recover its costs if the owner does not comply. Section 78 lets the authority take immediate action itself in an emergency and recover the expenses reasonably incurred. In Scotland, section 29 of the Building (Scotland) Act 2003 requires the local authority to do the work it considers necessary to protect the public, and it does not need a building warrant to do it.

Do I need a structural engineer, or will a builder do?

For anything that changes or restores a load path, get the engineer first and keep that appointment separate from the repair contract. The engineer diagnoses the cause, designs the scheme and can inspect it as it is built; the contractor prices and executes a defined scope. That separation also gives you a document set — design, calculations, sign-off — that a future buyer's surveyor will want to see.

How do I know whether a crack is getting worse?

Record it rather than guessing. Mark and date the ends of the crack in pencil, photograph it against a ruler, and look again after a full season has passed, since British masonry moves with moisture and temperature through the year. If the ends have moved, or the crack has gone through the masonry rather than just the plaster, or one side has stepped out of plane, that is the point to bring in an engineer.

Are horizontal cracks at regular heights on one wall serious?

They are the classic pattern of wall tie corrosion in a cavity wall, where the ties expand as they rust and jack the outer leaf apart along the bed joints they sit in. It is repairable — the usual approach is to install replacement ties and deal with the failed ones — but it is a structural repair rather than a pointing job, and it needs someone to establish the extent before anyone prices it.

Does a structural repair need building control approval?

Often, yes. In England and Wales, structural alteration is building work under the Building Regulations 2010, so replacing a lintel, forming an opening or removing a loadbearing element normally goes through building control. In Scotland the equivalent is a building warrant, with exempted work listed in schedule 3 to the Building (Scotland) Regulations 2004. Northern Ireland has its own regulations. Ask before the work starts, because retrospective regularisation is more trouble than the original application.

My house is listed. Does that change anything?

It changes the consents and often the method. Structural repair to a listed building can require listed building consent in addition to building control, and the repair approach may have to respect original materials — lime mortars, soft bricks, historic timber — rather than defaulting to cement and resin. Speak to the conservation officer at the council early; that conversation usually shapes the scheme rather than merely approving it.

Sources

  1. Building Act 1984, section 77 (dangerous building)
  2. Building Act 1984, section 78 (dangerous building: emergency measures)
  3. Building (Scotland) Act 2003, section 29 (dangerous buildings)
  4. Scottish building standards: procedural handbook, building warrants
  5. GOV.UK: when you need building regulations approval

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of structural repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Interior or exterior approach
  • Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
  • Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
  • Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
  • Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
  • Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
  • Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed

How to compare structural contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
  • Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
  • For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
  • For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
  • Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.

Questions to ask structural contractors before you hire

  • Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
  • Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
  • Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
  • How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
  • If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?

When to call a pro for structural repair

  • Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
  • Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
  • Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
  • Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.

Structural repair permits and local rules

Some structural repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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