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Drainage around a British house is mostly about rainwater: what comes off the roof, what runs off the drive, and where it is allowed to go. Requirement H3 of Schedule 1 to the Building Regulations 2010 puts that in a strict order of priority. Rainwater shall discharge to an adequate soakaway or some other adequate infiltration system; or, where that is not reasonably practicable, a watercourse; or, where that is not reasonably practicable, a sewer.

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That order is the reverse of the instinct to connect everything to the nearest drain, and Approved Document H says plainly that methods of drainage other than connection to a public surface water sewer are encouraged where they are technically feasible. The same document sets out where infiltration will not work at all, which is the part most quotations skip over.

The other half of the job is levels. Water moved ten metres and then allowed to soak away beside the wall has not been drained, it has been relocated. The guidance is explicit that rainwater soaking into the ground must be distributed sufficiently so that it does not damage the foundations of the proposed building or any adjacent structure.

Where rainwater is allowed to go, in priority order

Requirement H3 has three limbs. Adequate provision shall be made for rainwater to be carried from the roof of the building; paved areas around the building shall be so constructed as to be adequately drained; and rainwater from either shall discharge to a soakaway or other infiltration system, then a watercourse, then a sewer, in that order of priority and only where each earlier option is not reasonably practicable. In the Secretary of State's view those requirements are met where rainwater from roofs and paved areas is carried away from the surface, the system carries the flow to an outfall while minimising the risk of blockage or leakage and remaining accessible for clearing blockages, and water soaking into the ground is distributed so that it does not damage foundations.

Discharging to a watercourse is not automatically available. Approved Document H notes that discharge to a watercourse may require a consent from the Environment Agency, who may limit the rate of discharge, so a quotation that proposes running a new pipe to the nearest ditch should say who is obtaining that consent.

Mixing the two systems up causes trouble in the other direction as well. Surface water sent into a foul drain adds flow that the foul system was never sized for, and the right to connect to a public sewer under section 106 of the Water Industry Act 1991 comes with restrictions on what may be discharged where separate sewers exist. If a contractor proposes to connect a new soakaway overflow or a driveway channel into an existing drain, ask which system that drain is and on whose authority the connection is being made.

Drainage systems used around British homes

  • Soakaways, which Approved Document H describes for areas less than 100 square metres as square or circular pits filled with rubble or lined with dry-jointed masonry or perforated ring units.
  • Filter drains, also called french drains, consisting of a trench lined with a geotextile membrane and filled with gravel, often with a perforated pipe laid through it to assist drainage.
  • Swales, grass-lined channels that transport rainwater across a site while controlling the flow and quality of runoff, with some of the flow infiltrating into the ground.
  • Infiltration basins, dry grass-lined basins designed to promote infiltration of surface water into the ground.
  • Pervious paving, a porous or permeable surface over a granular layer that acts as a storage reservoir, retaining peak flows while water soaks into the subsoil beneath.
  • Gullies and channels discharging to a piped drainage system, used where surfaces cannot be freedraining and pervious paving is not suitable.
  • Freedraining paths and driveways that shed water to an adjacent pervious area such as grassland, where the ground can take it.
  • A detention arrangement, where a storage layer sits over an impermeable barrier and releases flow to a drainage system, used where infiltration is not possible.

Siting and sizing a soakaway

  • Approved Document H says infiltration devices should not be built within 5m of a building or road, or in areas of unstable land.
  • They should not be built in ground where the water table reaches the bottom of the device at any time of the year.
  • They should be sited far enough from any drainage fields, drainage mounds or other soakaways that the overall soakage capacity of the ground is not exceeded.
  • They should not be used where contamination in the runoff could pollute a groundwater source or resource.
  • Percolation tests should be carried out to determine the capacity of the soil, rather than the size being assumed from the area of roof being drained.
  • Soakaways should be designed to a return period of once in ten years, with storms of differing durations tested to find the duration that gives the largest storage volume.
  • For small soakaways serving 25 square metres or less, a design rainfall of 10mm in 5 minutes may be assumed to give the worst case; larger areas are designed to BS EN 752-4 or BRE Digest 365.
  • Where the ground is marginal, the guidance accepts that overflow drains can be acceptable rather than forcing infiltration to carry everything.

Water against the wall: gradients, paving and levels

Approved Document H is specific about falls near a building. Surface gradients should direct water draining from a paved area away from buildings, and where the levels would otherwise cause water to concentrate along the wall of a building, a reverse gradient should be created for at least 500mm from the wall to divert the water away from it. Gradients on impervious surfaces should be designed to let water drain quickly, with a gradient of at least 1 in 60 recommended, while the gradient across a path should not exceed 1 in 40.

Draining to an adjacent pervious area is allowed, but with conditions that are easy to breach in a small garden. Paths, driveways and other narrow areas of paving should be freedraining to a pervious area such as grassland, provided the water is not discharged adjacent to buildings where it could damage foundations and the soakage capacity of the ground is not overloaded. Where water is drained onto adjacent ground, the edge of the paving should finish above or flush with the surrounding ground so the water can run off. Even pervious paving carries the same warning: a check should be made that stored water will not accumulate around the foundations of the building.

Planning rules reinforce the same point at the front of the house. The Planning Portal states that planning permission will be needed for laying traditional, impermeable driveways that do not provide for water to run to a permeable area where the surface to be covered is more than five square metres, and that permission is not needed where a new or replacement driveway of any size uses permeable or porous surfacing such as gravel, permeable concrete block paving or porous asphalt, or if the rainwater is directed to a lawn or border to drain naturally.

Soakaway, or connect it to a drain?

The regulations answer this in a fixed order, and a soakaway or other infiltration system comes first wherever it is reasonably practicable. Infiltration keeps rainfall on the site, does not load the public system in the storms when it is least able to cope, and avoids a connection that may need someone else's agreement. Where the ground drains and there is room to site a device clear of buildings, roads and the water table, it is normally the right answer.

Infiltration is not always possible, and Approved Document H says so directly. Heavy or already saturated ground, a high water table, unstable land, contamination risk, or simply nowhere that is 5m clear of a building or road all rule it out, and in those cases a watercourse, with any consent that requires, or a sewer connection becomes the practicable option. The honest version of that conversation includes a percolation test rather than an assertion about the soil.

LokalMatch is where the comparable quotations come from. Describe the problem once, saying where the water stands, what it comes off, what the ground is like and what you have already tried, and drainage contractors covering your postcode get in touch with you. They pay for the requests they receive, homeowners never do. LokalMatch does not design or build drainage, does not set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any firm, so asking each contractor how they established the soil's capacity and where the water will finally go is still your job.

Keeping surface drainage working

  • Clear gullies of silt, grit and leaf litter, since Approved Document H expects provision to prevent silt and grit entering the system through suitably sized gully pots or catchpits.
  • Check that gully gratings still sit slightly below the surrounding paved surface, which is how they are set to allow for settlement.
  • Keep channels and linear drains across a driveway free of grit, because they silt up faster than they block.
  • Keep pervious paving free of sediment: the guidance warns it should not be used where excessive amounts of sediment are likely to enter the pavement and block the pores.
  • Watch for water standing against a wall after heavy rain, which usually means levels have changed rather than that a pipe has failed.
  • Check downpipe shoes and connections each autumn, since a disconnected downpipe puts a roof's worth of water beside a foundation.
  • Keep a note of where any soakaway is, and do not build over it or pave across its inspection point.

Groundwater and subsoil drainage, which is a different job

Surface water and groundwater are not the same problem and are not solved by the same work. Approved Document C deals with the second: where the water table can rise to within 0.25m of the lowest floor of the building, or where surface water could enter or adversely affect the building, either the ground to be covered by the building should be drained by gravity or other effective means of safeguarding the building should be taken. Where there is a risk that groundwater beneath or around the building could adversely affect the stability and properties of the ground, consideration should be given to site drainage or other protection.

Two practical cautions come with that. If an active subsoil drain is cut during excavation and it passes under the building, Approved Document C expects it to be re-laid in pipes with sealed joints with access points outside the building, re-routed around the building, or re-run to another outfall — so a land drain found in a trench is not something to simply break and backfill. And general excavation work for foundations and services can itself alter groundwater flows through a site, which is why new drainage sometimes changes where water appears rather than removing it.

Before work starts, make sure the quotation says which problem it is solving. A scheme for roof and driveway runoff will not deal with a high water table, and a land drainage scheme will not stop a blocked gully overflowing at the back door. Ask for the two to be priced and explained separately where you appear to have both.

Drainage Systems: frequently asked questions

How far from the house should a soakaway be?

Approved Document H says infiltration devices should not be built within 5m of a building or road, or in areas of unstable land. They also should not be built where the water table reaches the bottom of the device at any time of year, nor so close to other soakaways or drainage fields that the ground's overall soakage capacity is exceeded. In a small garden those constraints, rather than the size of the roof, are often what decides whether a soakaway is possible at all.

Do I need planning permission to pave my front garden?

It depends on what you lay and where the water goes. The Planning Portal states that planning permission will be needed for laying traditional, impermeable driveways that do not provide for water to run to a permeable area, where the surface to be covered is more than five square metres. You will not need permission if a new or replacement driveway of any size uses permeable or porous surfacing such as gravel, permeable concrete block paving or porous asphalt, or if the rainwater is directed to a lawn or border to drain naturally.

Can I run my rainwater into the foul drain?

Not as a first choice, and not without checking. Requirement H3 puts a soakaway or other infiltration system first, then a watercourse, then a sewer, each only where the previous option is not reasonably practicable, and Approved Document H encourages methods other than connection to a public surface water sewer where technically feasible. Section 106 of the Water Industry Act 1991 also restricts what may be discharged where separate foul and surface water sewers exist, so ask your contractor which system the drain belongs to before anything is connected.

What if the ground will not take a soakaway?

Then infiltration is not reasonably practicable and you move down the priority order to a watercourse, and then a sewer. Approved Document H expects percolation tests to determine the capacity of the soil rather than an assumption, and it accepts that where ground is marginal an overflow drain can be acceptable. Bear in mind that discharge to a watercourse may require a consent from the Environment Agency, who may limit the rate of discharge, so establish who is applying for it.

Water pools against my wall after heavy rain. Is that a drainage job?

Often it is a levels job rather than a pipework job. Approved Document H says surface gradients should direct water draining from a paved area away from buildings, and where levels would otherwise concentrate water along a wall, a reverse gradient should be created for at least 500mm from the wall to divert it. Water discharged onto ground next to a building where it could damage foundations is specifically warned against, so check the falls and the paving edge before paying for a new drain.

Who owns the drain once it leaves my garden?

In England and Wales, usually the water and sewerage company. The Water Industry (Schemes for Adoption of Private Sewers) Regulations 2011 transferred private sewers and lateral drains connected to the public system to the sewerage undertakers, so the length beyond your boundary and any run shared with neighbours is generally theirs to maintain. That is worth confirming before you accept a quotation to excavate outside your boundary for a drainage problem.

Sources

  1. Schedule 1 to the Building Regulations 2010: requirement H3 (rainwater drainage)
  2. GOV.UK: Approved Document H — drainage and waste disposal
  3. Approved Document H, 2015 edition: drainage of paved areas, surface water drainage and soakaways
  4. Approved Document C, 2013 edition: subsoil drainage and the water table
  5. Planning Portal: paving your front garden
  6. Water Industry Act 1991, section 106: right to connect to public sewers
  7. The Water Industry (Schemes for Adoption of Private Sewers) Regulations 2011

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of drainage system

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Interior or exterior approach
  • Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
  • Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
  • Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
  • Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
  • Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
  • Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed

How to compare drainage contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
  • Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
  • For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
  • For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
  • Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.

Questions to ask drainage contractors before you hire

  • Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
  • Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
  • Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
  • How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
  • If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?

When to call a pro for drainage system

  • Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
  • Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
  • Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
  • Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.

Drainage system permits and local rules

Some drainage system work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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