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Socket Installation

Socket Installation near you

One piece of vocabulary before anything else, because it is the reason a lot of British homeowners end up reading American advice by mistake. Outlet is the American word. In Britain the thing on the wall is a socket, or more formally a socket outlet, and the job is socket installation. Ask an electrician for a double socket rather than a duplex outlet and you will be understood immediately.

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This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
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The work itself covers adding sockets to rooms that were wired when households owned a fraction of the appliances they own now, converting singles to doubles, moving sockets when a kitchen or a layout changes, replacing cracked, scorched or painted-over accessories, and putting a weatherproof socket outside for a mower or a pressure washer. Most of it is an alteration to a circuit that already exists rather than a brand new circuit, and that distinction is exactly what decides how the job is treated under the building regulations.

The British socket is also unusually standardised, which works in your favour. The Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994 specify the British Standards that plugs, sockets and fuses must conform to: the familiar three-pin arrangement is BS 1363, and the cartridge fuse inside the plug is made to BS 1362. That fused plug is a genuine difference from other countries' wiring practice, and it is worth understanding before you buy accessories from an overseas seller.

Types of socket outlet in a British home, from a 13 A double to a fused spur

  • Switched single and double sockets: the standard 13 A accessory to BS 1363, with the switch that lets you kill an appliance without unplugging it.
  • Unswitched sockets: sometimes specified behind furniture or for appliances that should not be casually turned off, and common in older installations.
  • Sockets with integrated USB charging: a standard accessory with charging ports built in, which suits a bedside or the end of a worktop.
  • Fused connection units, usually called fused spurs: the fixed outlet for an appliance that is wired in rather than plugged in, such as an extractor fan or a boiler.
  • Weatherproof outdoor sockets: enclosed accessories with a lid that closes over the plug, for garden tools and outbuildings.
  • Shaver sockets: the isolated supply found in bathrooms, made to BS 4573, which is why a razor works in there and a hairdryer has nowhere to plug in.
  • Legacy round-pin sockets to BS 546: still found in older houses, sometimes on a lighting circuit for standard lamps, and a sign the installation deserves a proper look.
  • Floor and pop-up sockets: fitted where a table or an island sits away from the walls, and dependent on the floor construction underneath.

Is adding a socket notifiable? England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland differ

England draws the line in one place and Wales draws it in another, and the difference is not academic if your socket is going in a kitchen or a garden. Under regulation 12(6A) of the Building Regulations 2010, electrical work in England must be notified to a building control body only where it involves the installation of a new circuit, the replacement of a consumer unit, or any addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location. A special location is defined by reference to the zones around a bath, a shower, a swimming or paddling pool or a hot air sauna. Adding a socket to an existing circuit in an English kitchen therefore falls outside those three categories.

Wales still works from Schedule 4 to the same regulations, which lists the work that is not notifiable rather than the work that is. Under that schedule, adding socket outlets and fused spurs to an existing ring or radial circuit is non-notifiable only where the work is not in a kitchen or a special location and does not involve a special installation. Schedule 4 defines a kitchen as a room or part of a room containing a sink and food preparation facilities, and it defines a special installation to include an outdoor lighting or electric power installation. In plain terms: in Wales, the kitchen socket and the garden socket remain notifiable, and in England they do not.

GOV.UK's guidance on when you need building regulations approval lists replacing fuse boxes and connected electrics and changing electrics near a bath or shower as work that may need approval, and confirms that you do not need to get approval yourself if you use someone registered with a competent person scheme. Scotland and Northern Ireland run separate systems entirely. Scotland authorises work through a building warrant granted by the local authority acting as verifier under the Building (Scotland) Act 2003, with a completion certificate at the end; Schedule 3 to the Building (Scotland) Regulations 2004 lists work that needs no warrant, including extra-low voltage installations not exceeding 50 volts alternating current or 120 volts direct current, and the replacement of a fitting or equipment such as an electrical fixture by another of the same general type to a standard no worse than at present.

BS 1363, the fused plug and why product standards matter when you buy sockets

The fuse in a British plug is not decoration. The Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994 set out, in Schedule 2, the specified British Standards for this equipment: BS 1363 for standard plugs and the sockets they engage with, BS 1362 for the fuse links suitable for use in a standard plug, BS 546 for round-pin plugs and sockets, BS 4573 for two-pin reversible plugs and shaver sockets, and BS 5733 for adaptors. A plug fuse protects the flex of the appliance, which is a job that in many other countries has to be done by the circuit protection alone.

Everything you buy to go on the wall sits under the Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 2016 as well. Those regulations place duties along the whole supply chain: manufacturers must design and make equipment to the safety objectives, prepare technical documentation, issue a declaration of conformity and provide instructions and safety information; importers must verify conformity before placing equipment on the market; and distributors must act with due care and take action on non-conforming products. That is the machinery behind a simple piece of advice - buy accessories from a seller who is accountable under those rules rather than from a marketplace listing with no identifiable economic operator behind it.

Outdoors, protection matters more than the accessory. HSE's guidance is blunt about the value of residual current devices, stating that an RCD rated at no more than 30 mA limits the energy in a particular type of electric shock and can save your life, while cautioning that an RCD cannot protect you from every type of electric shock. HSE recommends using RCDs whenever possible but particularly in wet or damp locations, such as outdoors, and pressing the test button regularly. If you are having a garden socket fitted, that is the conversation to have with the electrician.

How an electrician adds a socket: spurs, circuits, cable routes and making good

The first question is never where the socket goes; it is what is going to feed it. An electrician establishes which circuit is nearby, what it already serves, and whether the new position can be taken from it or needs something of its own. Where a circuit has the capacity, the new accessory is connected into it or taken as a spur; where it does not, or where the intended use is heavy, the honest answer is a new circuit from the consumer unit - which changes the category of the job in England, because a new circuit is notifiable.

Then comes the building. A cable that can be run through a loft, under floorboards or behind plasterboard is a modest job. A cable that has to be chased into a solid wall means cutting, burying, filling and redecorating, and on a ground floor with a concrete slab or in a flat with limited routes it can mean surface trunking instead. Ask explicitly who is responsible for making good the plaster and paint, because it is one of the most commonly excluded items on an electrician's quotation and one of the most visible when it is skipped.

The job ends in testing and paperwork, not in screwing on a faceplate. The new work is tested and the results recorded on the certification appropriate to what was done, and where the work was notifiable the notification is dealt with too. On LokalMatch, the hiring end of this is deliberately simple: you describe the sockets you want and where, once, with your postcode, and electricians covering your area get in touch with you directly. The pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out the work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any of the businesses that reply, so asking each of them which scheme they are registered with, and what their price includes, stays your job.

Warning signs from a socket that should not wait for the next job

  • Scorch marks, browning or a melted patch around the pin holes, which point to heat at a connection rather than at the plug.
  • A socket or plug that is hot to the touch after normal use, as opposed to slightly warm under a heavy appliance.
  • A faceplate that has cracked, or one that has been painted over, which traps the switch and hides damage underneath.
  • A plug that falls out, or sits loose in the socket, usually meaning the internal contacts have lost their grip.
  • Buzzing, crackling or a whiff of hot plastic when an appliance is switched on at the socket.
  • A socket permanently carrying an extension lead with several high-powered appliances on it, which is a wiring problem dressed up as a convenience.
  • Any socket in a kitchen, bathroom or garden that has got wet, or an outdoor accessory whose lid no longer closes.

Getting more out of the sockets you already have

  • Put sockets where appliances actually live, so the room stops relying on extension leads run under rugs and behind sofas.
  • Replace an old single with a double rather than adding a four-way trailing lead, which costs about the same in labour and removes the trip hazard.
  • Keep the correct fuse in each plug rather than fitting whatever is in the drawer, since the fuse is protecting that appliance's flex.
  • Have outdoor sockets checked after a wet winter, and look at whether the lid still seals when a plug is in place.
  • Note where cables run before anyone drills, and keep any certificates that record it with the property paperwork.
  • Ask for the circuits at the consumer unit to be labelled while the electrician is on site - it costs nothing and saves time on every future visit.

What drives the cost of having sockets installed

The accessory on the wall is the cheapest part of a socket job and almost never the reason two quotations differ. What you are really paying for is the route the cable has to take and what has to be repaired afterwards.

  • Whether the new socket can come off an existing circuit, or needs a new circuit from the consumer unit - which is also notifiable work in England.
  • Wall construction: plasterboard with a void behind it is quick, while a solid brick or stone wall means chasing, filling and redecorating.
  • Floor and ceiling access, since a liftable floorboard or an accessible loft transforms a cable run.
  • The number of sockets done in one visit, because the second and third position in the same room are far cheaper than the first.
  • Outdoor and outbuilding work, where weatherproof accessories, cable routes and protection add time.
  • The condition and capacity of the existing installation, especially where old accessories break on removal or where protection has to be brought up to standard first.
  • Whether making good the plaster and decoration is in the quotation or left for you to arrange.
  • Occupied kitchens and flats, where access, working around fitted units and shared building rules stretch the day out.

Socket Installation: frequently asked questions

Is it wrong to call it an outlet in the UK?

Not wrong so much as foreign. Outlet is the American term; British electricians, retailers and the standards themselves say socket or socket outlet. The relevant British Standard, BS 1363, is named in Schedule 2 to the Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994 as covering standard plugs and the sockets with which standard plugs may be engaged. Use socket when you brief a tradesperson and there is no ambiguity about what you want.

Do I need building regulations approval to have a socket added?

In England, usually not. Regulation 12(6A) of the Building Regulations 2010 makes electrical work notifiable only where it involves a new circuit, replacing a consumer unit, or an addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location - the zones around a bath, shower, pool or sauna. Adding a socket to an existing circuit elsewhere, including a kitchen, is outside those categories. If the socket needs a new circuit of its own, that is notifiable.

I live in Wales. Is a kitchen or garden socket treated differently?

Yes, and this is the difference people get caught by. Wales still applies Schedule 4 to the Building Regulations 2010, under which adding socket outlets and fused spurs to an existing ring or radial circuit is non-notifiable only when the work is not in a kitchen or a special location and does not involve a special installation. Schedule 4 defines a kitchen as a room or part of a room containing a sink and food preparation facilities, and includes an outdoor lighting or electric power installation within special installations. So in Wales the kitchen and the garden remain notifiable.

How do I check an electrician is properly registered?

Ask which competent person scheme they belong to, and check it. There is no single national licence for electricians. GOV.UK publishes the authorised schemes, and those covering electrical installation work in dwellings include Certsure LLP, NAPIT Registration Limited, Building Engineering Services Competence Assessment Limited and Blue Flame Certification Limited. GOV.UK notes that an installer joining an electrical scheme is included in the electrical competent person register, designed to provide a single place for householders to find registered electricians in their area, and that the schemes are authorised by MHCLG.

I rent my home and a socket is damaged. Whose responsibility is it?

Your landlord's, and in England there is a legal inspection regime behind that. The Electrical Safety Standards in the Private Rented Sector (England) Regulations 2020 require landlords to have every electrical installation inspected and tested by a qualified person at intervals of no more than five years, to supply the report to existing tenants within 28 days of the inspection, to give it to a new tenant before they occupy the property, and to provide it to the local housing authority within seven days of a written request. Where a report finds a breach, remedial work must be carried out within 28 days, or sooner if the report says so.

Why does a British plug have a fuse in it when plugs elsewhere do not?

Because the fuse is protecting the appliance flex rather than the circuit. Schedule 2 to the Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994 specifies BS 1362 for the fuse links suitable for use in a standard plug, alongside BS 1363 for the plugs and sockets themselves. It is why fitting the correct fuse rating matters, and why a plug rewired with whatever fuse came to hand quietly removes a layer of protection the system assumes is there.

Sources

  1. Building Regulations 2010, regulation 12 - notifiable electrical work in England (12(6A)) and the Wales position
  2. Building Regulations 2010, Schedule 4 - non-notifiable work, kitchens, special locations and special installations
  3. Building Regulations 2010, Schedule 1 - Part P requirement P1 and its limits on application
  4. GOV.UK: When you need building regulations approval
  5. GOV.UK: Competent person schemes - current schemes and how schemes are authorised
  6. Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994, Schedule 2 - specified British Standards (BS 1363, BS 1362)
  7. Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 2016 - duties on manufacturers, importers and distributors
  8. HSE: Electrical safety FAQs - residual current devices and safe isolation
  9. Electrical Safety Standards in the Private Rented Sector (England) Regulations 2020, regulation 3
  10. Building (Scotland) Regulations 2004, Schedule 3 - work which does not require a building warrant
  11. Scottish Government: Building standards - warrants, verifiers and technical handbooks

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of outlet installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type and amount of work, from a single fixture to a full rewire
  • Condition and age of the existing wiring
  • Panel and service capacity
  • Distance from the panel to the new circuit
  • Access through finished walls and ceilings
  • Permits and inspections

How to compare electricians before you hire

  • Hire a licensed electrician or electrical contractor for any wiring, panel or new circuit work.
  • Ask whether the work needs a permit and inspection, and make sure the electrician arranges it.
  • Get a written quote that lists fixtures, materials, patching of walls and ceilings, and permit costs.
  • For panel upgrades and EV chargers, ask them to check whether your electrical service can handle the added load.
  • Choose someone who explains what they found in plain language before starting.

Questions to ask electricians before you hire

  • Are you licensed for electrical work in my area?
  • Will you get the permit and arrange the inspection?
  • Can my current panel and service handle this work?
  • Will you need to open walls or ceilings, and who patches them afterwards?
  • Is the price fixed, or could it change once you see the existing wiring?
  • What warranty do you offer on your work?

When to call a pro for outlet installation

  • Burning smells, scorch marks or warm outlets and switches: turn off the circuit at the panel if it's safe to do so and call an electrician.
  • Breakers that trip again and again
  • Flickering or dimming lights that aren't fixed by changing the bulb
  • Any sparking, buzzing or exposed wiring

Outlet installation permits and local rules

Some outlet installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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