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Lighting Installation

Lighting Installation near you

Lighting work covers more ground than swapping a pendant for something nicer. It runs from replacing a single fitting and adding dimmers, through downlights in a kitchen or bathroom ceiling, to wall lights that need a new cable chased into plaster, outside lights and security lighting, and complete schemes designed alongside a refurbishment. Some of it is a straight replacement; some of it means new cabling, new switching and making good afterwards.

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Two sets of building regulations shape the job in ways homeowners rarely expect. Part P governs electrical safety in dwellings, and work near a bath or shower is treated differently from work anywhere else, which is why bathroom lighting comes with more conversation than a landing light. Part L sets how efficient the lighting itself has to be: Approved Document L says that where installed in a new or existing dwelling, each internal light fitting should have lamps with a minimum luminous efficacy of 75 light source lumens per circuit-watt.

The lamps themselves have changed underneath all of this. The government ended the sale of most halogen bulbs for general household use in the UK from 1 September 2021 and set out plans to phase out high-energy fluorescent bulbs, so replacing an old fitting increasingly means moving to LED whether or not that was the plan.

Lighting jobs in a British home, from a single fitting to a full scheme

  • Replacing an existing fitting on existing wiring, which is the simplest job and the one most often done badly.
  • Downlights set into a ceiling, where the number, spacing and beam angle decide whether a room is lit or merely bright.
  • Bathroom and shower room lighting, which is governed by where the fitting sits in relation to the bath or shower.
  • Kitchen lighting in layers: general ceiling light, task lighting over worktops, and often lighting under wall units.
  • Wall lights and new switch positions, which usually mean chasing cable into plaster and redecorating afterwards.
  • Dimming and control, including two-way and multi-way switching so a hallway or landing works from both ends.
  • Outdoor lighting for paths, patios and entrances, and security lighting with movement detection.
  • Loft, garage and outbuilding lighting, often on a supply that was never designed for what is now plugged into it.

Lighting near a bath or shower, and when the work has to be notified

Bathrooms are where lighting work meets the building regulations most directly. Government guidance on when you need building regulations approval lists changing electrics near a bath or shower among the work that may need approval, alongside replacing fuse boxes and connected electrics, and confirms that you do not need to obtain approval yourself if you use someone registered with a competent person scheme. Part P covers electrical safety in dwellings, and Approved Document P is the statutory guidance for England setting out when notification is required.

Wales draws the line in a slightly different place, and it is worth knowing which side of the border you are on. Welsh Government guidance treats replacing any electrical fitting, including light fittings and control switches, and any repair or maintenance work, as not notifiable, while adding a fused spur to an existing circuit is not notifiable only where it is not in a kitchen, a bathroom or outdoors. A registered installer in Wales arranges for a building regulations compliance certificate to reach you within 30 days of the work being completed.

Scotland and Northern Ireland run different systems again. Scotland authorises work through building warrants granted by the local authority as verifier under the Building (Scotland) Act 2003, issues completion certificates, and publishes technical handbooks rather than approved documents. Northern Ireland's building regulations are made by the Department of Finance under the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) Order 1979, with district councils enforcing them and technical booklets providing the guidance.

Part L and lighting efficiency: what 75 lumens per circuit-watt means for you

Approved Document L, the guidance supporting the energy efficiency requirements in England, is specific about domestic lighting. It says that where installed in a new or existing dwelling, each internal light fitting should have lamps with a minimum luminous efficacy of 75 light source lumens per circuit-watt. The phrase circuit-watt matters: it measures the light produced against the power the fitting actually draws, including any driver or transformer, rather than against the rating printed on the lamp.

The same guidance asks for internal light fittings in a new or existing dwelling to have local controls allowing lighting in each space or zone to be controlled separately, which may be manual, automatic or a combination. Outside, it looks for automatic controls that switch luminaires off in response to daylight, plus controls that switch them off once the lit area is unoccupied where efficacy is 75 light source lumens per circuit-watt or less; above that figure, manual control is acceptable.

In practice this is an argument for choosing fittings before choosing a look. An efficient lamp in a fitting that traps its own heat and light, or a decorative fitting whose driver consumes a disproportionate share of the power, can fall short of a figure that the same lamp would meet elsewhere. Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland each publish their own energy efficiency guidance, so confirm which document applies where you live.

Halogen, fluorescent and LED: what you can still buy

The lighting aisle has changed by law, not just by fashion. Government announced that retailers would no longer be able to sell the majority of halogen bulbs for general household use in the UK from 1 September, in 2021, and said it planned to start phasing out high-energy fluorescent bulbs with a view to ending their sale from September 2023. At the time of the announcement, around two thirds of bulbs sold in Britain were already LED.

The comparison government drew is the practical one for a household: LED bulbs use up to 80 per cent less power than the halogens they replace and last around five times longer, which is why replacing a failed halogen downlight increasingly means replacing the fitting rather than the lamp. Energy labels changed at the same time, onto a rescaled A to G scale that does away with the old A+, A++ and A+++ ratings, so a bulb rated modestly under the new labels may be perfectly efficient.

This is worth raising before an electrician orders anything. Where a house still has banks of halogen downlights, the decision is whether to fit LED replacements into existing housings or to change the fittings entirely, and the answer affects the ceiling, the wiring and how the finished room looks.

What a lighting installation involves, and how to brief it well

A good lighting job starts with the room rather than the fitting. Where do people stand, read, cook and sit? Which surfaces should be lit, and which should not? How is the room used at different times of day? An electrician who asks those questions before quoting will produce a better result than one who asks only how many downlights you want.

The physical work depends almost entirely on whether cables can be run without opening the building up. A ceiling with a loft above it is straightforward; a first-floor ceiling under a bedroom floor is less so; a solid wall needing chased cable for a new switch means plaster, filling and paint. Ask explicitly who is responsible for making good, because it is frequently excluded.

Newly installed lighting also brings a protection requirement with it. Regulation 411.3.4 of BS 7671:2018 requires all luminaires within domestic premises to have additional protection by a 30 milliamp residual current device when installed on an alternating current final circuit. On an older installation whose lighting circuits have no such protection, that may mean work at the consumer unit as part of the lighting job, so it is better raised in the quotation than discovered on the day.

LokalMatch is where the shortlist comes from, not the design. Describe the rooms, the fittings you have in mind and your postcode once, and electricians covering your area contact you. Pros pay for the requests they receive, and LokalMatch neither installs anything nor sets prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend the businesses that reply - so comparing what each quotation includes, down to who fills the holes, is your part.

Flickering, buzzing dimmers and downlights that keep failing

  • LED lamps that flicker or will not dim smoothly, usually a dimmer intended for older lamps rather than a fault in the lighting.
  • A faint glow from lamps that are supposedly switched off, which typically points at how the switching is wired.
  • Buzzing from a dimmer or a fitting, worth investigating rather than tolerating.
  • Downlights that fail early in one part of a ceiling, where heat is not escaping as the fitting expects.
  • Fittings that have been covered by loft insulation without anyone checking whether they are designed for it - ask the electrician specifically about this before insulation goes over any recessed fitting.
  • Bathroom fittings misting internally, which suggests the fitting is not suited to the position it is in.
  • Outside lights that trip the circuit after heavy rain, a classic sign of water finding its way into a fitting or a joint.

What drives the cost of having lighting installed

Lighting quotations vary mostly on access and on how much new cable is involved. Swapping ten fittings for ten fittings is a predictable job; putting ten new positions into a ceiling that has never had them is a different one.

  • Whether existing wiring and switch positions are being reused, or new circuits and switch drops are needed.
  • Ceiling construction and what is above it, since a loft makes cable runs easy and a bedroom floor does not.
  • Solid walls, which mean chasing, filling and redecoration rather than a quick fix behind plasterboard.
  • Bathrooms and shower rooms, where the position of each fitting drives what may be installed and whether notification applies.
  • Whether the lighting circuit already has the residual current protection the current standard expects.
  • The number of separately controlled zones, and whether dimming or multi-way switching is wanted.
  • Outdoor work, where cable routes, weatherproofing and ground conditions add time.
  • Who makes good the ceilings and walls, and whether decoration is in the quotation or yours to arrange.

Lighting Installation: frequently asked questions

Can I fit a new light fitting myself?

Replacing a fitting on existing wiring is among the work Welsh Government guidance lists as not notifiable, so no notification is triggered. That is not the same as it being risk-free: the circuit must be isolated and proved dead, the existing wiring has to be suitable for what you are hanging on it, and older lighting circuits are frequently not what they appear. Anything in a bathroom, anything needing new cable, and anything at the consumer unit is not a DIY job.

Do bathroom lights really need special treatment?

Yes, and it is one of the few electrical rules most householders have heard of. Government guidance on building regulations approval explicitly lists changing electrics near a bath or shower as work that may need approval. The position of a fitting relative to the bath or shower determines what can be installed there, which is why an electrician will ask about the layout before recommending anything.

What does 75 lumens per circuit-watt mean in plain terms?

It is an efficiency floor for fixed lighting. Approved Document L says each internal light fitting installed in a new or existing dwelling should have lamps with a minimum luminous efficacy of 75 light source lumens per circuit-watt - that is, at least 75 units of light for every watt the fitting draws, including any driver. Modern LED fittings generally clear it comfortably; decorative fittings with inefficient drivers are where it becomes a real question.

Why can I no longer buy the halogen bulbs my fittings take?

They were withdrawn from sale. Government ended the sale of the majority of halogen bulbs for general household use in the UK from 1 September 2021, and set out plans to end the sale of high-energy fluorescent bulbs from September 2023. LED replacements exist for most fittings, and where one does not fit or perform properly, replacing the fitting is usually a better answer than hunting for old stock.

My new LED lights flicker on the old dimmer. Is the wiring faulty?

Usually not. Dimmers made for filament and halogen lamps often do not control LED loads properly, and flickering, buzzing or a narrow usable dimming range is the common result. An electrician will check the dimmer and the lamps together rather than assuming either one is at fault. It is worth mentioning at the quotation stage if you want dimming, because the control and the fittings need to suit each other.

Sources

  1. GOV.UK: Approved Document L - conservation of fuel and power, Volume 1: Dwellings
  2. GOV.UK: End of halogen light bulbs spells brighter and cleaner future
  3. GOV.UK: When you need building regulations approval - electrics near a bath or shower
  4. GOV.UK: Approved Document P - electrical safety in dwellings (England)
  5. GOV.WALES: Building regulations - electrics, notifiable and non-notifiable work
  6. GOV.UK: Competent person schemes for self-certifying electrical work
  7. IET: BS 7671 FAQs - 30 mA RCD protection for luminaires in domestic premises
  8. Scottish Government: Building standards - technical handbooks and building warrants
  9. Department of Finance: Building Regulations in Northern Ireland

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of lighting

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type and amount of work, from a single fixture to a full rewire
  • Condition and age of the existing wiring
  • Panel and service capacity
  • Distance from the panel to the new circuit
  • Access through finished walls and ceilings
  • Permits and inspections

How to compare electricians before you hire

  • Hire a licensed electrician or electrical contractor for any wiring, panel or new circuit work.
  • Ask whether the work needs a permit and inspection, and make sure the electrician arranges it.
  • Get a written quote that lists fixtures, materials, patching of walls and ceilings, and permit costs.
  • For panel upgrades and EV chargers, ask them to check whether your electrical service can handle the added load.
  • Choose someone who explains what they found in plain language before starting.

Questions to ask electricians before you hire

  • Are you licensed for electrical work in my area?
  • Will you get the permit and arrange the inspection?
  • Can my current panel and service handle this work?
  • Will you need to open walls or ceilings, and who patches them afterwards?
  • Is the price fixed, or could it change once you see the existing wiring?
  • What warranty do you offer on your work?

When to call a pro for lighting

  • Burning smells, scorch marks or warm outlets and switches: turn off the circuit at the panel if it's safe to do so and call an electrician.
  • Breakers that trip again and again
  • Flickering or dimming lights that aren't fixed by changing the bulb
  • Any sparking, buzzing or exposed wiring

Lighting permits and local rules

Some lighting work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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