Skip to content
LokalMatch

Consumer Unit Upgrades

Consumer Unit Upgrades near you

The board that the circuits in your home run from is called a consumer unit, and older ones are still widely known as the fuse board or fuse box. It holds the main switch that isolates the property, the protective devices for each circuit, and increasingly the residual current protection that disconnects a circuit when current leaks to earth. Replacing or upgrading it is one of the few electrical jobs that affects every room at once, which is why it is worth understanding before anyone quotes for it.

Tell us about your panel upgrade project and we’ll help you find local electricians who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
On this page

The reasons for doing it are usually cumulative rather than dramatic. The IET's guidance for householders points out how far the equipment has moved: in the 1960s it was acceptable to install a consumer unit with a wooden back box and rewireable fuses, and modern requirements expect residual current protection across the installation. Add an inspection report with observations on it, a board too full to take another circuit, or an obsolete unit nobody makes parts for, and replacement becomes the sensible answer.

It is also notifiable work in England and Wales, so a consumer unit replacement is not a job that quietly happens without paperwork. Government guidance lists replacing fuse boxes and connected electrics among the work that may need building regulations approval, while noting that you do not need to obtain that approval yourself if you use an installer registered with a competent person scheme.

What is inside a consumer unit: main switch, MCBs, RCDs, RCBOs and surge protection

  • Main switch: isolates the whole installation, and is the switch to find before you need it rather than during a leak.
  • Miniature circuit breakers: protect each circuit against overload and short circuit, replacing the rewireable fuses used in older boards.
  • Residual current devices: disconnect when current leaks to earth, the condition that makes a shock dangerous, but which the IET notes do not provide overcurrent protection on their own.
  • RCBOs: combine both functions on a single circuit, so one faulty appliance takes out one circuit rather than half the house.
  • Surge protection devices: BS 7671:2018 regulation 443.4 states that protection against transient overvoltages shall be provided within single dwellings unless the value of the installation and the equipment in it does not justify it.
  • Spare ways: the room to add a circuit later, for an electric vehicle charger or a garden supply, without starting again.
  • Labelling: a clear schedule of which device protects which circuit, which is what makes every future repair quicker.

Signs your fuse board is due for replacement

  • Rewireable fuses, fuse wire, or a wooden back box of the kind the IET describes as acceptable in the 1960s.
  • No residual current protection at all, or protection covering only part of the installation.
  • A board with no spare ways left, when you want to add a circuit for a charger, an outbuilding or a shower.
  • Cracks, burn marks, rust or a cover that no longer fits properly.
  • Protective devices that have to be replaced but are no longer manufactured, so nothing matches.
  • An inspection report recording observations that trace back to the board rather than to individual circuits.
  • Circuits that cannot be identified, because nothing is labelled and nobody knows what half the switches do.

Why new consumer units are metal: the non-combustible enclosure rule

If you have wondered why the plastic board on the wall is being replaced with a steel one, this is why. The IET's guidance for householders states that from January 2016 the IET Wiring Regulations required consumer units in domestic household premises to be manufactured from non-combustible material. The requirement was introduced by Amendment 3 to the 17th Edition, published as BS 7671:2008+A3:2015, and it survives into the current edition: BS 7671:2018 requires consumer units and similar switchgear assemblies in domestic premises to be manufactured from non-combustible materials, or to be enclosed in a cabinet constructed from non-combustible material.

Ferrous metal such as steel is the example given of a non-combustible material, which is why the modern domestic board is a steel box rather than the moulded plastic one it replaces. The intention is straightforward: if something inside the enclosure arcs or overheats, the enclosure should contain it rather than contribute to it.

This applies to units being installed or replaced, not retrospectively to every board in the country. Whether the older unit on your wall is acceptable where it stands is a judgement for the electrician inspecting it, recorded with reasons on an Electrical Installation Condition Report, rather than something that can be decided from the material of the cover alone.

What happens on the day your consumer unit is replaced

Plan for a day without power, and for more of it than the swap itself takes. The installation has to be isolated, the existing circuits identified and tested before they are transferred, the new unit fitted and each circuit connected and tested again, and the results recorded. Circuits are reconnected as the work progresses, but there is no version of this job that leaves the house live throughout.

Expect the work to find things. A consumer unit replacement is the moment when earthing and main protective bonding get examined properly, and where those are missing or inadequate they generally have to be put right before the new board can be energised and certified. Ask, before the day, what happens if the electrician finds a circuit that cannot be reconnected safely: a good answer describes an isolated circuit, a written explanation and a separate quotation, not an improvised fix.

At the end you should receive an Electrical Installation Certificate for the work, a schedule of the circuits and the test results, and confirmation that the work has been notified. Keep all of it with the deeds. On LokalMatch the route to that point is simple: you describe the board you have and what you want done, once, with your postcode, and electricians covering your area get in touch. Pros pay for the requests they receive, and LokalMatch does not do the work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone who replies.

Notification, certification and the devolved differences

Replacing a consumer unit is the clearest example of notifiable domestic electrical work. Government guidance on building regulations approval names replacing fuse boxes and connected electrics as work that may need approval, and says you do not need to get approval yourself if the installer is registered with a competent person scheme. Part P covers electrical safety in dwellings, and Approved Document P is the statutory guidance for England explaining when notification is required.

Registration is what makes the simple route available. Government publishes the authorised competent person schemes, and those covering electrical installation work in dwellings include Certsure trading as NICEIC, NAPIT, BESCA, Blue Flame Certification and OFTEC. An installer on one of these schemes can self-certify the work; an installer who is not registered has to involve a building control body instead, which takes longer and costs more.

Outside England the machinery differs. Welsh Government guidance says a registered installer arranges for you to receive a building regulations compliance certificate within 30 days of the work being completed. In Scotland, work is authorised through a building warrant granted by the local authority acting as verifier under the Building (Scotland) Act 2003, with a completion certificate at the end and technical handbooks in place of approved documents. In Northern Ireland the Department of Finance makes the building regulations under the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) Order 1979, with district councils responsible for enforcement.

After the upgrade: testing the RCD and knowing when to inspect again

A new board comes with two small obligations, and both are easy. The first is the test button: the IET tells householders to test residual current devices every six months, which means pressing the button, confirming the device trips, and switching it back on. A device that does not trip is a fault to report, not a quirk to live with.

The second is knowing when the installation should be looked at again. The IET's guidance for householders gives a maximum frequency of once every ten years for owner-occupied homes, and once every five years or at change of occupancy for rented property. Private landlords in England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland now have five-year duties in law rather than guidance, so for let property the legal interval is the one that governs.

What drives the cost of a consumer unit replacement

Two quotations for the same board can differ mainly in what they assume about the circuits behind it. The unit itself is rarely where the variation comes from.

  • How many circuits there are, and how they are to be protected: individual RCBOs cost more than shared residual current devices and behave better in a fault.
  • The state of the earthing and main protective bonding, which often has to be upgraded before anything can be certified.
  • Whether surge protection is included, and whether the quotation says so explicitly.
  • Whether the existing circuits pass their tests, since a circuit that fails cannot simply be reconnected.
  • Where the board is: a cupboard under the stairs is a different job from a high board above a stairwell.
  • Whether the incoming supply equipment has to be worked around, which can involve the network operator and their own scheduling.
  • Notification and certification, and the making good of any plaster or decoration disturbed.

Consumer Unit Upgrades: frequently asked questions

Are plastic consumer units illegal now?

The rule bites on installation, not on ownership. From January 2016 the IET Wiring Regulations required consumer units in domestic premises to be manufactured from non-combustible material, or to be enclosed in a cabinet of non-combustible material, and steel is the example given. So a board being installed or replaced today will be metal. Whether an older plastic unit is acceptable where it is remains a judgement for the electrician inspecting the installation, recorded on a condition report.

What is the difference between an RCD and an RCBO, and does it matter?

It matters most on the day something goes wrong. Both detect current leaking to earth, but as the IET puts it, unless a device is a residual current breaker with overcurrent protection, a residual current circuit breaker does not provide overcurrent protection. In practice a board built around RCBOs gives each circuit its own combined protection, so a fault disconnects that circuit alone instead of everything sharing a single device.

Does a consumer unit replacement have to be notified?

In England and Wales this is notifiable work. Government guidance lists replacing fuse boxes and connected electrics among the jobs that may need building regulations approval, and adds that you do not need to get approval yourself if you use someone registered with a competent person scheme. In Wales a registered installer arranges a building regulations compliance certificate within 30 days of completion. Scotland uses building warrants and completion certificates instead, and Northern Ireland works through district council building control.

Do I need surge protection fitted?

It is now the default rather than an extra. Regulation 443.4 of BS 7671:2018 states that protection against transient overvoltages shall be provided within single dwellings unless the value of the installation and the equipment in it does not justify such protection. That reverses the old assumption, so if a quotation leaves surge protection out, the useful question is why, rather than whether you could add it.

How long will my power be off?

Expect the best part of a working day for a straightforward replacement, and longer where circuits fail their tests or earthing and bonding need work first. Circuits come back on as they are transferred and tested, so it is not a single uninterrupted outage, but plan around it: move anything temperature-sensitive out of the freezer's way, and make sure anyone who depends on powered equipment has an alternative for the day.

My board is fine. Why did my inspection report mention it?

Condition reports assess the installation against the current standard, so a board that works perfectly can still attract observations - commonly the absence of residual current protection, an enclosure that no longer meets requirements, or circuits that cannot be identified. That is information rather than an instruction to replace, and the report should say what was found and why it matters, which is what lets you decide what to do and in what order.

Sources

  1. IET: Consumer units - householder guidance on fuse boxes, RCDs and inspection intervals
  2. IET: BS 7671 FAQs - non-combustible enclosures, RCBOs and surge protection
  3. GOV.UK: When you need building regulations approval - replacing fuse boxes
  4. GOV.UK: Competent person schemes - current schemes and how schemes are authorised
  5. GOV.UK: Approved Document P - electrical safety in dwellings (England)
  6. GOV.WALES: Building regulations - electrics and the compliance certificate
  7. Scottish Government: Building standards - building warrants and completion certificates
  8. Department of Finance: Building Regulations in Northern Ireland
  9. Scottish Government: Repairing Standard guidance - electrical installations and five-yearly EICRs
  10. Electrical Safety Standards for Private Tenancies Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2024
  11. GOV.WALES: Fitness for human habitation - electrical safety testing in rented homes

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

Find electricians by city

England

Show 173 cities

What affects the cost of panel upgrade

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type and amount of work, from a single fixture to a full rewire
  • Condition and age of the existing wiring
  • Panel and service capacity
  • Distance from the panel to the new circuit
  • Access through finished walls and ceilings
  • Permits and inspections

How to compare electricians before you hire

  • Hire a licensed electrician or electrical contractor for any wiring, panel or new circuit work.
  • Ask whether the work needs a permit and inspection, and make sure the electrician arranges it.
  • Get a written quote that lists fixtures, materials, patching of walls and ceilings, and permit costs.
  • For panel upgrades and EV chargers, ask them to check whether your electrical service can handle the added load.
  • Choose someone who explains what they found in plain language before starting.

Questions to ask electricians before you hire

  • Are you licensed for electrical work in my area?
  • Will you get the permit and arrange the inspection?
  • Can my current panel and service handle this work?
  • Will you need to open walls or ceilings, and who patches them afterwards?
  • Is the price fixed, or could it change once you see the existing wiring?
  • What warranty do you offer on your work?

When to call a pro for panel upgrade

  • Burning smells, scorch marks or warm outlets and switches: turn off the circuit at the panel if it's safe to do so and call an electrician.
  • Breakers that trip again and again
  • Flickering or dimming lights that aren't fixed by changing the bulb
  • Any sparking, buzzing or exposed wiring

Panel upgrade permits and local rules

Some panel upgrade work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Ready to get panel upgrade quotes?

Tell us about your panel upgrade project.

Do you offer panel upgrade services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.