In-Floor Heating
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Wet underfloor heating is a water circuit laid into or under the floor and fed from the same heat source as the rest of the house. It has three parts that decide whether it works: the heat source and the temperature it can deliver, the manifold where flows are set and measured, and the floor build-up itself, which governs how quickly heat gets into the room and how much of it goes downwards instead.
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The part homeowners hear least about is commissioning, and it is the part with a named standard behind it. Approved Document L Volume 1 is short and specific: all installed equipment in underfloor heating systems should be commissioned in accordance with BS EN 1264-4. That covers the pressure test, the filling and venting, and the initial heat-up sequence that a screed has to go through before a floor covering is laid over it. Skipping it is how a floor ends up cracked, or a covering ends up lifting a year later.
This guide is about the wet system and the heat source behind it. The build-up, insulation figures and the Part P notification that comes with an electric system are covered in the heated floors guide; if your project is an electric mat in a bathroom, that is the page to read, and an electrician's certificate is part of the job.
Matching the wet system to the heat source you actually have
- Heat pump with underfloor throughout: the natural pairing, because a large floor area gives the required output at the low flow temperature a heat pump wants.
- Heat pump with underfloor downstairs and radiators upstairs: common in retrofits, and it needs the radiators sized for the same low temperature rather than left as they are.
- Condensing boiler with underfloor: workable, but the floor circuit needs a blending arrangement to drop the boiler's flow temperature to what the screed and covering can take.
- Boiler feeding both radiators and a floor: two temperature regimes on one heat source, which means a mixing valve, its own pump and controls that keep them from fighting.
- Single-room wet retrofit off an existing system: the most awkward case, since a single long circuit off a radiator tail rarely has the flow it needs.
- District or communal heat: the flow temperature is set by the network, so the blending arrangement carries the whole burden of protecting the floor.
Commissioning to BS EN 1264-4, and why the heat-up sequence matters
Paragraph 8.13 of Approved Document L Volume 1, the 2021 edition incorporating the 2023 amendments, states that all installed equipment in underfloor heating systems should be commissioned in accordance with BS EN 1264-4. It sits in the same commissioning section as the requirement that commissioning information provided to the dwelling owner should include details of the fluids used and their commissioned concentrations — the inhibitor and, on a ground loop, any antifreeze.
The sequence that standard sets out exists because a heated screed is a structural element that has to be brought up to temperature in a controlled way. The pipe is pressure tested and left under pressure while the screed goes down, so damage from a later trade shows up immediately. The screed then cures for the period its manufacturer specifies, with the heating off. Only then does a functional heat-up begin at a low flow temperature and rise in steps, holding at each, before coming back down. A floor covering goes on after that, not before.
The commissioning notice itself is a building control matter. Approved Document L requires a notice of completion of commissioning to be given to the building control body, within five days in the general case or 30 days where the work is done by a person registered with a competent person scheme, and says that until it receives that notice the body may decide not to issue a completion certificate. That is a real consequence at the point of sale.
Screed, panel or joist: what the build-up does to the output
A traditional sand and cement or flowing screed over pipe clipped to insulation gives the highest output per square metre and the most even surface temperature, at the cost of height, weight and a long cure. It is slow to respond, which suits continuous running behind a heat pump and suits intermittent use badly. The thickness matters beyond structure: Approved Document L expects heating systems for screed floors greater than 65mm thick to automatically reduce room temperature at night or when the room is unoccupied, precisely because such a floor cannot react quickly.
Low-profile overlay panels take a smaller pipe in a grooved board and add far less height, which is usually the only reason a retrofit is possible at all. They respond faster and give less output per square metre, so the room's heat loss has to be genuinely low for them to carry the whole load. Between joists, with insulation and spreader plates beneath, is the third route on a suspended timber floor, and its performance depends almost entirely on how well the insulation below is fitted.
Whatever the build-up, the floor covering sits on top of the design rather than beside it. A thick underlay, a heavy rug or a covering not approved for use over heating raises the water temperature needed to get the same output, which pushes the system away from the low flow temperature the rest of the design assumed.
From manifold position to first heat-up
- Room-by-room heat loss first, because a floor cannot be oversized: there is only so much area and only so high a surface temperature.
- Manifold position chosen early, with permanent access, since it is where flows are set and where every future adjustment happens.
- Circuit lengths planned so no loop is much longer than the others, which is what makes balancing possible later.
- Insulation laid beneath the heating layer before anything else, so the heat goes up rather than into the slab or the void.
- Pipe laid, then pressure tested and left under pressure while the screed is poured, so any damage shows at once.
- Screed cured for the period its manufacturer states, with the heating off for the whole of it.
- Functional heat-up run in steps to BS EN 1264-4 and recorded, before any floor covering is laid.
- Flow rates set at the manifold flow meters, the blending valve temperature confirmed, and the commissioning record and layout drawing handed over.
Manifold faults, blending valves and the one cold loop
- One circuit cool along its whole length, which is usually a flow meter closed down or an actuator that has failed shut.
- Air in a loop after a system top-up, which stops circulation completely and needs venting from the manifold rather than from the floor.
- A blending valve set too high, which overheats the screed, stresses the covering and can void a floor covering warranty.
- A blending valve set too low, which leaves the room short on the coldest days and gets blamed on the heat pump.
- Actuator heads fitted to the wrong ports after a service, so the thermostat in one room controls the loop in another.
- Floor covering changed later for something thicker, leaving the design output unattainable at the design temperature.
- No layout drawing at handover, which turns every later fixing into the floor — a threshold strip, a kitchen plinth, a bath foot — into a gamble.
The manifold is the only part you will ever touch
A wet floor circuit is buried and effectively maintenance-free; the manifold is not. Once a year it is worth looking at the flow meters to see that each loop still shows roughly the flow it was set to, checking that actuator heads are seated and moving, and confirming the blending valve is still at the commissioned temperature rather than wherever it was left after a repair. Photograph the flow meter settings once, at handover, and the check takes two minutes thereafter.
Water quality applies to the floor circuit as much as to radiators. Approved Document L's commissioning guidance asks that the owner be told the fluids used and their commissioned concentrations, which is the figure a later engineer needs to check inhibitor levels against. On a system shared with radiators, the floor loops are the coolest part of the circuit and therefore where corrosion products tend to settle, which is another argument for a magnetic filter and for emptying it.
The one job that is not routine is finding a leak in a buried pipe. It is rare in a properly pressure-tested installation and it is specialist work when it happens, relying on thermal imaging and the layout drawing. That drawing is the single most valuable piece of paper from the whole installation, and it is the one most often lost.
What drives an underfloor heating quote, and how LokalMatch fits in
Price follows the build-up and the disruption far more than the pipe. What moves a quotation is whether the floor is being built new or opened up, how much height is available at doorways, whether insulation has to be added beneath, how many zones and manifolds are needed, whether the heat source can supply the temperature required or needs blending, what happens to kitchen units and skirtings while the work is done, and how long the property is unusable during screed cure and heat-up. A single room off an existing system is often disproportionately expensive for its area.
LokalMatch is only the introduction. Describe the floor once with your postcode — which rooms, what is under the existing floor, what heats the house now and how much height you can give up — and firms that fit underfloor heating in your area reply. Homeowners are never charged; pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the installation, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anybody, so ask each firm what their price includes for insulation, commissioning to BS EN 1264-4 and the layout drawing.
In-Floor Heating: frequently asked questions
How long before I can lay a floor covering over a new heated screed?
Longer than most programmes allow. The screed cures for the period its own manufacturer specifies with the heating off, and only then does the functional heat-up begin — a staged rise and fall in flow temperature carried out in accordance with BS EN 1264-4, which Approved Document L names as the commissioning standard for underfloor heating. The covering goes down after that sequence has been completed and recorded. Ask for the heat-up record before anything is laid.
Can underfloor heating run off my existing gas boiler?
Yes, with a blending arrangement. A boiler sends water far hotter than a screed or a floor covering can take, so the floor circuit needs a mixing valve, its own pump and controls that keep the floor and any radiators from working against each other. The valve's set temperature is a commissioning figure worth writing down, because setting it high to force more output damages coverings and setting it low leaves the room cold in January.
One room is cold and the rest are fine. What is it likely to be?
Start at the manifold rather than the floor. The usual causes are a flow meter that has been closed down, an actuator that has failed in the shut position, an air lock in that loop after a top-up, or actuator heads swapped between ports so the wrong thermostat controls it. All four are visible and fixable at the manifold. A genuine fault in the buried pipe is rare where the installation was pressure tested during the screed pour.
Is a wet floor better than electric underfloor heating?
It depends on what you are asking it to do. Wet systems are cheaper to run, especially behind a heat pump, and can heat a whole house; they cost more to install, add height and involve a wet trade with a long cure. Electric is the practical retrofit for a single small room and needs an electrician, because fixed electrical work in a dwelling is notifiable in England under Part P with different rules in Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. The heated floors guide covers that side in detail.
Does underfloor heating need building control involvement?
The heating work is a controlled service, and Approved Document L expects a notice of completion of commissioning to reach the building control body — within five days in the general case, or 30 days where the work is carried out by someone registered with a competent person scheme. The document also notes that until that notice arrives the building control body may decide not to issue a completion certificate, which is the sort of gap that surfaces when you sell.
What paperwork should I insist on at handover?
The commissioning record including the functional heat-up, the flow rates set at each manifold circuit, the blending valve temperature, the details of the fluids used and their commissioned concentrations — which Approved Document L specifically expects the owner to be given — and a layout drawing showing where every pipe runs. The drawing is what protects the floor from the next person who screws a threshold strip down.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of in-floor heating
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Type of system and fuel source
- Size and efficiency of the equipment
- Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
- Electrical or gas line changes
- Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
- Removal and disposal of the old equipment
- Emergency or after-hours service
How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire
- Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
- For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
- Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
- Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
- Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.
Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire
- Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
- How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
- Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
- Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
- Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
- How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?
When to call a pro for in-floor heating
- If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
- If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
- No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
- Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use
In-floor heating permits and local rules
Some in-floor heating work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
Guides about in-floor heating
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