Ductwork
Ductwork near you
Ductwork means something different in Britain than it does in countries built around central air. Most homes here are heated by a wet system, a boiler feeding radiators, and have no ducted warm-air distribution and no central cooling, so there is usually no trunk-and-branch network in the loft to install, seal or replace. The ducting a British house does have is short, local and easy to overlook: the run that takes a bathroom extract fan through the wall or out through the roof, the length behind a cooker hood, a tumble dryer vent, and, in newer and deeply retrofitted homes, the duct network feeding a mechanical ventilation with heat recovery unit.
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That makes ductwork largely a ventilation trade rather than a heating one. A contractor is usually there to give a new extract fan an honest route to the outside, to replace crushed or sagging flexible hose that has been throttling a fan for years, to re-run a kitchen duct around a new layout, or to install and commission the rigid duct network an MVHR unit needs. A minority of homes, mostly built in the 1960s and 1970s, do have gas warm-air heating with genuine supply ducts, and those systems carry their own requirements.
A duct is not just a hole through a wall. Approved Document F sets the air flow rates the finished installation has to deliver, in litres per second, and it expects rigid duct wherever possible, any flexible duct kept short and pulled taut, and access points left so the ductwork can be cleaned in future.
What actually counts as ductwork in a British home
Before quoting for duct routes it is worth being clear about which of these you have, because the trade, the materials and the sign-off differ. Many homeowners who ask for ductwork turn out to need a single extract route done properly.
- Extract fan ducting: the run from a bathroom, shower room or WC fan to a terminal on an outside wall or the roof, which in many houses is the only ducting in the building.
- Cooker hood ducting: the run from a hood over the hob to the outside. A hood that filters and returns air to the room is not ducted at all, and Approved Document F states that a recirculating cooker hood on its own does not provide a means of ventilation that complies with Part F.
- MVHR ductwork: a full network of supply ducts to habitable rooms and extract ducts from wet rooms, meeting at a heat recovery unit, found in newer dwellings and in retrofits where the house has been made much more airtight.
- Continuous mechanical extract ductwork: a central unit drawing continuously from the wet rooms, which Approved Document F treats as suitable for all dwellings, and which is also available in decentralised form as a single fan replacing an intermittent one.
- Warm-air heating ducts: real supply ducting serving a gas warm-air heater, largely a mid-century survival, where Approved Document L expects new or replacement ductwork to be insulated to BS 5422 and the system installed to BS 5864.
- Single-room heat recovery ventilators: a compromise Approved Document F allows for a wet room added to an existing dwelling, needing a core through one wall rather than a duct network.
Rigid duct, flexible duct and why the difference decides performance
The single most common reason a fan underperforms in a British house is the duct it was given. Approved Document F is direct about this: rigid ducts should be used wherever possible. Where flexible ductwork is installed, lengths should be a maximum of 1.5 metres, it should meet the standards of BSRIA's BG 43/2013, and it should be installed so that the full internal diameter is maintained and flow resistance is minimised, which means pulling the duct taut rather than leaving it concertinaed.
That guidance exists because the alternative is so common. A three-metre coil of ribbed hose looped over a loft joist, half collapsed and sagging where condensate has pooled, can strangle a fan that would have met its rate through a short rigid run. Noise is governed by the same detail: Approved Document F expects systems to be designed and installed to minimise noise, including correctly sizing and jointing ducts and fixing equipment securely, for instance on resilient mountings.
Planning a duct route, positioning the terminal and proving the flow
A duct route is designed backwards from where the air has to leave the building, then checked against the obstacles in between: joist directions, the line of a steel, a cavity tray, a fire compartment, and whatever the outside wall looks like from the street. The shortest sensible run with the fewest bends is almost always the right answer, and it is far cheaper to argue about it on paper than after the ceiling is closed.
Approved Document F sets out where things sit. Extract terminals and fans, not including cooker extract hoods, should be installed as high as is practicable in the room and a maximum of 400 millimetres below the ceiling. Where a cooker hood extracts to the outside, the height of the hood above the hob surface should be as specified in the manufacturer's instructions or, where there is no specification, between 650 and 750 millimetres. Internal doors matter too: air has to be able to move through the dwelling, with a minimum free area equivalent to a 10 millimetre undercut in a 760 millimetre wide door.
The job is not finished when the grille goes on. Approved Document F expects air flow rates to be measured and recorded in litres per second, so ask for those figures rather than an assurance that the fan is running. A number on a commissioning sheet is the only evidence that the duct you paid for is delivering what the room needs.
Why a fan with ductwork still leaves the mirror steamed up
- A long, kinked or sagging flexible run, well beyond the 1.5 metre maximum Approved Document F sets for flexible duct.
- Duct crushed where it passes over a joist, under insulation or behind a boxed-in soil pipe.
- A duct that stops in the loft or the eaves instead of reaching a terminal outside, which dumps the moisture straight into the roof space.
- A terminal grille with fine insect mesh, or a flap that has stuck shut, choking the flow at the last 50 millimetres of the route.
- Duct diameter reduced at the fan spigot or at a bend, so the fan works against resistance it was never rated for.
- A recirculating cooker hood doing duty as extract ventilation, so the steam and the cooking moisture stay in the kitchen.
- No replacement air: a tightly sealed room with the door closed and no undercut leaves the fan pulling against a vacuum.
Building Regulations, fire separation and asbestos in older houses
Ventilation equipment is treated as a controlled service or fitting, and providing or extending it in or in connection with a building is building work, so duct routes are not outside the Building Regulations. GOV.UK explains that you do not need to apply for approval yourself if you use someone registered with a competent person scheme, which is the usual route for this kind of work. There is a narrow relief worth knowing: Approved Document F notes that replacing an extractor fan or a cooker hood using the existing cabling does not need to be notified to a building control body.
Fire separation is the requirement people forget. Approved Document F points out that the requirements of Part B apply where ducts pass through a fire resisting structure or a fire compartment, which covers routes that cross a protected stairway, a garage wall or the separating wall of a flat. Getting that detail wrong turns a ventilation improvement into a fire safety defect.
In older properties, assume nothing about what you are cutting into. HSE states that asbestos may be part of any commercial or domestic building built or refurbished before the year 2000, and that if you disturb something you suspect contains asbestos you should stop work immediately, confirm what it is or assume it is asbestos, and carry out a risk assessment, under the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012. Textured decorative coatings and insulating board sit exactly where duct routes tend to go.
Scotland and Northern Ireland run separate systems. In Scotland the Building (Scotland) Act 2003 works through a building warrant granted before work starts and a completion certificate before a building is occupied, with the technical handbooks giving the guidance, ventilation in Section 3 and energy in Section 6. In Northern Ireland the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012 place ventilation in Part K and conservation of fuel and power in Part F, so the letters themselves do not match England's.
Designing ducting that can be cleaned and serviced later
Approved Document F asks for reasonable access for maintaining ventilation systems, specifically access to replace filters, fans and coils, access points for cleaning ductwork, and access for general maintenance of the plant. On a new MVHR installation that is a design decision made early: a unit buried in a loft behind a water tank, reachable only by crawling over joists, will not be serviced, whatever the intention on the day.
Ask the installer where the access points are and have them marked on the commissioning paperwork. The regulations also require that the person carrying out the work gives the owner sufficient information about the building's ventilation system and its maintenance requirements, so that the system can be operated to provide adequate ventilation. That handover pack is what a future plumber, cleaner or buyer's surveyor will work from.
Getting quotes for duct work through LokalMatch
Duct quotes are hard to compare because contractors solve the route differently: one prices a short rigid run through the gable with a new terminal, another prices a longer path to keep the external wall untouched. Ask each to state the duct material, the length and diameter, the number of bends, where the terminal goes and the air flow rate they will commission to, and the comparison becomes possible.
On LokalMatch you describe the job once, with the room, the building type and photographs of the likely route, and matched local pros get in touch with you. Pros pay for the requests they receive, which is how the site is funded. LokalMatch does not carry out the work and does not set prices, and it does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so checking competence, insurance and scheme membership remains yours to do.
Ductwork: frequently asked questions
Does my house even have ductwork?
Probably very little. If you have radiators fed by a boiler, there is no heating ductwork at all, and what exists is the extract run behind the bathroom fan and the cooker hood. Homes with mechanical ventilation with heat recovery, gas warm-air heating or ducted cooling are the exception here rather than the norm.
Can the whole run be flexible hose?
It should not be. Approved Document F says rigid ducts should be used wherever possible, and that where flexible ductwork is installed its lengths should be a maximum of 1.5 metres, pulled taut so the full internal diameter is maintained. Long concertinaed runs are the most common reason an extract fan fails to meet its rate.
Is a recirculating cooker hood good enough?
Not as ventilation. Approved Document F is explicit that a recirculating cooker hood on its own does not provide a means of ventilation complying with Part F. It filters odour and grease but returns the moisture to the kitchen, which matters in a house prone to condensation.
Do I need building control approval to have a duct run installed?
Ventilation equipment is a controlled service or fitting, so the work falls under the Building Regulations, but GOV.UK explains you do not need to apply yourself if the installer is registered with a competent person scheme. Approved Document F also notes that swapping an extractor fan or cooker hood on the existing cabling does not need notifying.
We are opening up ceilings in a 1960s house. What about asbestos?
Treat it as possible until checked. HSE says asbestos may be present in any building built or refurbished before the year 2000, and that if you suspect you have disturbed it you should stop work immediately, assume it is asbestos and carry out a risk assessment under the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012. Higher-risk materials require a licensed contractor.
Sources
- GOV.UK: Ventilation, Approved Document F
- Approved Document F, Volume 1: Dwellings, 2021 edition (PDF)
- Approved Document L, Volume 1: Dwellings, 2021 edition incorporating 2023 amendments (PDF)
- GOV.UK: Building regulations approval
- HSE: Asbestos frequently asked questions
- Scottish Government: Building standards
- The Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of ductwork
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Type of system and fuel source
- Size and efficiency of the equipment
- Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
- Electrical or gas line changes
- Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
- Removal and disposal of the old equipment
- Emergency or after-hours service
How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire
- Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your area.
- For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
- Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
- Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
- Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.
Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire
- Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my area?
- How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
- Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
- Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
- Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
- How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?
When to call a pro for ductwork
- If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
- If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
- No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
- Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use
Ductwork permits and local rules
Some ductwork work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
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