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Tuckpointing

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Remove worn mortar and repoint brick joints. Tell us about your tuckpointing project and we’ll help you find local masons who serve your area.

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Tuckpointing, which most Canadian masons also call repointing, is the renewal of worn mortar between bricks or stones. The mason cuts the old mortar out of the joints to a sound depth, packs fresh mortar back in and finishes each joint to match the rest of the wall. The bricks stay where they are, which is what separates this job from brick replacement.

Mortar joints are meant to wear out before the bricks do. Driving rain, freeze–thaw cycles and wind slowly wash them back until they turn sandy, recessed or cracked, and from then on water gets into the wall more easily and the bricks start to suffer. Repointing at the right moment keeps a brick house tight for many more years, while waiting until bricks come loose turns a joint job into a rebuild.

This page explains how to tell when joints need work, why repointing mortar has to be softer than the brick, how colour and joint profile are matched, how joints are cut out without harming the brick or the people nearby, and which weather masons avoid. Replacing cracked or spalled bricks is covered on the brick repair page, and heritage walls in more depth on the masonry page.

Signs your brick needs tuckpointing: sandy, recessed and cracked mortar joints

A simple check tells you a lot: drag a key along a joint. Sound mortar resists, while mortar that crumbles into sand or comes out in chunks has done its job and needs renewing. Look over the whole wall, but pay extra attention to the places where water lingers.

  • Joints worn back behind the face of the brick, so each course casts a thin shadow line.
  • Mortar that powders or turns to sand when scratched.
  • Cracks along the joints, or gaps where mortar has fallen out completely.
  • Moss, weeds or dark damp streaks growing out of the joints.
  • Wear concentrated under sills, beside downspouts, near the ground and along the top courses and parapets.
  • Earlier patches smeared over the joints, often in a harder grey mortar that doesn't match.
  • Damp spots or loose plaster on the inside of a solid brick wall after heavy rain.

Why repointing mortar should be softer than the brick, especially on older homes

In a healthy wall, the mortar is the sacrificial part. It should be slightly weaker and more porous than the brick around it, so that movement, moisture and salts work on the joints, which can be renewed, instead of on the bricks, which are much harder to replace. When the mortar is harder than the brick, the roles flip: stress and water are pushed into the brick edges, and the faces can crack or pop off along the new joints over the following winters.

That's why hard, cement-rich modern mortar can damage older brick. Many older Canadian houses were built with softer brick laid in lime mortar, and repointing them with a strong modern mix is a common way they get harmed. Newer, harder brick tolerates a stronger mortar, so the right mix depends on the wall. A careful mason judges the age and hardness of the brick and the existing mortar before choosing, and on historic buildings follows the conservation approach of the Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada.

Matching mortar colour and joint profile on a repointed wall

Repointing changes how a wall looks more than most owners expect, because the joints make up a big part of the visible surface. Colour comes mostly from the sand and any pigment, and mortar dries to a different shade than it shows when wet. On a whole-wall job, ask for trial panels in a hidden spot and compare them, once cured, with a cleaned piece of the original mortar rather than the grimy surface. The shape of the joint matters just as much.

  • Concave joints, tooled into a shallow curve, shed water well and are common on newer brick.
  • Flush joints, finished level with the brick, suit many older walls and rough stone.
  • Raked or deeply recessed joints leave a ledge where water and snow can sit, a poor choice on exposed walls in a freezing climate.
  • Struck or weathered joints are angled to throw water off the brick below.
  • Historic tuckpointing fills the joint with mortar tinted to match the brick and adds a thin raised line of contrasting material to make the joints look fine and precise.
  • New joints should keep their original width, since grinding them wider changes the look of the wall and weakens the brick edges.

How mortar joints are ground out and repacked, with silica dust control

The old mortar is removed to an even depth, far enough to reach sound material and give the new mortar a good grip. Soft or historic brick calls for hand chisels, and grinders belong only in skilled hands, because a blade that wanders nicks the brick edges and widens the joints for good. The joints are then cleaned out and dampened so the brick doesn't pull water out of the fresh mortar too quickly.

New mortar goes in thin layers, each pressed firmly and left to stiffen before the next, and the final layer is tooled to the chosen profile once it reaches the right firmness. Grinding out mortar throws off fine dust containing crystalline silica, which CCOHS links to serious lung disease and lung cancer. Expect grinders fitted with dust extraction, respirators for the crew and closed windows and vents on that side of the house, and keep children and pets away. Work above the ground floor needs scaffolding or a lift and fall protection.

Weather limits for tuckpointing: frost, heat, wind and rain

Fresh mortar needs moderate conditions to cure, so tuckpointing is seasonal work across most of Canada. The mortar has to stay damp enough to harden properly and must not freeze while it's still green.

  • Frost: mortar that freezes before it cures can crumble and lose its bond, so masons stop outdoor pointing when nights turn cold unless the wall is enclosed and heated.
  • Hot sun and wind dry the joints too fast, so crews follow the shade around the house and mist or cover fresh work.
  • A downpour on fresh joints washes out the binder and stains the brick below, so the wall is tarped or the day rescheduled.
  • Lime mortars are especially sensitive and need longer protection while they harden.
  • Because the season is short, good masons often book up well ahead.

Tuckpointing vs brick repair: when new joints aren't enough

Tuckpointing renews the joints; brick repair replaces the units. If the mortar is worn but the bricks are sound, repointing is the whole job. If some bricks are cracked, spalled or loose, they're replaced first and the joints around them repointed afterwards. If a section bulges, leans or has lost its ties to the house, neither is enough, and that part of the wall has to be rebuilt.

Either way, find out why the joints failed. Mortar worn away under a leaking sill, behind an overflowing gutter or at a wall base buried in soil will wear out again unless the water is dealt with. Stair-step cracks that keep growing point to movement below, and repointing over them only hides the evidence; the brick repair and foundation cracks pages cover what to check.

RBQ licences and heritage rules for tuckpointing

In Quebec, repointing is masonry work, so the contractor needs RBQ subclass 4.1 or 4.2, which you can confirm in the RBQ registry. Like-for-like repointing rarely needs a building permit, but on a designated property or in a heritage district, even a new mortar colour or joint style can need approval, and Quebec's classified properties need the Ministry of Culture's authorization before repairs. Ask your municipality before work starts.

Tuckpointing: frequently asked questions

How do I know if my mortar joints need repointing?

Look for joints worn back from the brick face, cracks along the joints and mortar that crumbles to sand when scratched. Damp streaks or plants growing out of the joints are further signs.

Can new mortar be spread over the old joints?

No. A thin layer smeared over worn mortar doesn't bond, soon falls off and can trap water. The old mortar has to be cut out to a sound depth before new mortar goes in.

Why did my bricks crack after they were repointed?

Often because the new mortar was harder than the brick, which pushes stress and moisture into the brick edges. It can also mean the water source was never fixed. Have a mason assess the wall before more work.

Does the whole wall have to be repointed?

Not always. Exposed sides and the areas below sills often wear first, while sheltered walls may still be sound. Spot repointing works when the new joints are matched carefully in colour and profile.

Is tuckpointing dusty?

Cutting out mortar raises a lot of fine silica dust. A good crew uses dust extraction and respirators, and you should keep nearby windows closed and children and pets away while grinding is under way.

When is the best time of year for tuckpointing?

In mild weather, from late spring to early fall in most regions. Fresh mortar must not freeze, bake in hot sun or get rained on before it cures.

Sources

  1. Standards and guidelines for the conservation of historic places — Parks Canada
  2. The Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada — HistoricPlaces.ca
  3. Silica, quartz — Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety
  4. Specialized contractor licence subclasses — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
  5. Check a contractor's licence — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
  6. Doing work on a heritage property or in a heritage site — Gouvernement du Québec

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of tuckpointing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the area and the height of the walls
  • Material chosen
  • Removal of the existing material
  • Repairs needed to what's underneath
  • Access, including ladders, scaffolding or lifts
  • Trim, corners and openings to work around

How to compare masons before you hire

  • Choose a pro who works regularly with your material, whether that's siding, stucco, brick, eavestroughs or soffit and fascia.
  • Ask them to explain what's causing the problem, not only how they'll cover it up.
  • Get a written quote that separates removal, repairs to what's underneath and the new finish.
  • For chimney and masonry work, look for someone with specific masonry experience rather than a general handyman.
  • Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or scaffolding.

Questions to ask masons before you hire

  • What do you think is causing the damage, and will your work fix the cause?
  • Will you check the sheathing or wall underneath once the old material is off?
  • How will you handle water management, such as flashing, caulking and drainage?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

When to call a pro for tuckpointing

  • Gutters that overflow, pull away from the house or drain next to the foundation
  • Loose, cracked or bulging siding, stucco or brick
  • Crumbling mortar or loose bricks on a chimney

Tuckpointing permits and local rules

Some tuckpointing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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