Gutter Installation
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Install new eavestroughs, gutters and downspouts. Tell us about your gutter project and we’ll help you find local gutter installers who serve your area.
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Gutters, or eavestroughs as most Canadians call them, collect the water running off your roof and send it through downspouts to a spot where it can soak in or drain away safely. Without them, rain and snowmelt pour off the eaves in sheets, splash dirt onto the siding, carve trenches in flower beds and soak the soil right against the basement walls. A well-planned system is one of the simplest ways to keep a basement dry.
Gutter installation covers new eavestroughs on a house that has none, full replacement of an old, leaking or undersized system, and the work that often comes with it: new downspouts and extensions, gutter guards and sometimes new fascia boards where the old ones have rotted behind the trough. Most installers in Canada form seamless aluminum gutters on site from a coil, cut to the exact length of each wall, but steel, vinyl and copper systems are also available.
The quality of the job depends less on the material than on the planning: the size of the trough, the slope toward each outlet, the spacing of the hangers and, above all, where the downspouts let the water out. This page explains the materials and profiles, how installers size a system and place downspouts, what gutter guards can and can't do, and how a typical installation unfolds.
Gutter materials: seamless aluminum, steel, vinyl and copper
Each material behaves differently under snow, summer sun and freeze–thaw cycles. Ask the installer which one they put up most often and why they recommend it for your house.
- Seamless aluminum: the most common choice in Canada, light, rust-free and available in many baked-on colours to match the trim.
- Steel: heavier and better at resisting dents from ladders, falling ice and branches, but it must keep its protective coating to avoid rust.
- Vinyl: sold in sections that snap together, light and easy to put up, but it can turn brittle in deep cold and each of its many joints is a possible leak.
- Copper: long-lasting and handsome on heritage and high-end homes, it weathers to a natural patina and its soldered seams call for an installer who knows the metal.
- Downspouts, elbows and extensions: usually made of the same material as the trough, so the finish matches and two different metals don't corrode each other.
Seamless gutters versus sectional eavestroughs
Seamless gutters are made on site by a machine that shapes a flat coil of aluminum or steel into one continuous trough, cut to the length of each run. The only joints are at the corners and outlets, which leaves fewer places for a leak to start and gives a cleaner line along the roof edge.
Sectional gutters come in pre-cut lengths joined with connectors and sealant. They suit sheds, garages and small repairs, and a damaged piece is easy to swap out, but every joint is a seal that will need attention after years of freezing and thawing. On a whole house, most homeowners are better served by seamless runs put up by a crew with its own forming machine.
Sizing eavestroughs and placing downspouts
An installer sizes a gutter system from the roof, not from the house. A large, steep roof sheds water faster than a small, gentle one, and a long run collecting water from two roof planes that meet in a valley needs more capacity than a short run under a single slope. Wider troughs and larger downspouts are common on big roofs and wherever heavy summer downpours overwhelm the standard sizes.
Downspout placement is where planning pays off most. The Government of Canada's flood-prevention advice suggests one downspout for every 6 m to 12 m (20 to 40 ft.) of eavestrough. The installer will also put them where the ground slopes away from the house and where the water won't cross a walkway that freezes in winter. Each run is pitched slightly toward its outlet so water doesn't sit in the trough.
- K-style profile: the most common on Canadian homes, it holds a lot of water for its width and looks like crown moulding from the street.
- Half-round profile: suited to older and heritage homes, often paired with copper or round downspouts.
- Fascia-style or custom profile: it covers the fascia board itself and gives the roof edge a clean, modern finish.
Directing roof water away from your foundation
A gutter that catches every drop is only doing half the job if the downspout empties at the foot of the wall. That water soaks the backfill, overloads the weeping tile and finds its way through cracks and window wells. The same Government of Canada guidance recommends sending downspout water at least 2 m (6 ft.) away from the foundations of your home and your neighbours', where possible, toward a lawn, garden bed or rain garden where it can soak in.
Where space is tight, as on many city lots and plexes, an installer can use hinged extensions that flip up for mowing, splash blocks, or a rain barrel whose overflow goes somewhere safe. Water should never be aimed at a neighbour's wall, a driveway that ices over or a set of stairs. If water still pools near the house once the gutters are up, the grading around the foundation may need a look as well.
Gutter guards: what they prevent and what they don't
Gutter guards, also called leaf guards, cover the trough so leaves, seeds and needles stay on top while water flows in. The Government of Canada recommends them to keep debris out. They earn their keep under large trees, but no guard makes a gutter system maintenance-free.
- Mesh and micro-mesh screens let water through fine openings that block most debris, but pollen and fine grit can build up on top.
- Solid covers with a rounded lip guide water around the edge into the trough while leaves slide off, though water can overshoot in very intense rain.
- Foam and brush inserts sit inside the trough and are easy to add, but they trap debris and have to be pulled out and cleaned.
- In winter, snow and ice can bridge over some guards, so ask how the model you're considering behaves under a snow load.
- Ask whether the guard slips under the first row of shingles and whether that could affect your roofing warranty.
How eavestrough installation works, from measuring to the water test
- Assessment: the installer measures each run, looks at the roof area draining into it and checks the fascia boards for rot or soft spots.
- Plan and quote: trough size, material, colour, number and position of downspouts, and any guards or extensions, all in writing.
- Removal: the old gutters and hangers come down, and damaged fascia is repaired or replaced before anything new goes up.
- Forming and hanging: seamless runs are formed on site, pitched toward the outlets and fastened with hidden hangers spaced closely enough to carry snow and ice.
- Outlets and downspouts: corners and end caps are sealed, downspouts are strapped to the wall and extensions are angled to carry water away.
- Water test and cleanup: the crew runs water through each run to check the flow and the seals, then clears old material and fasteners from the yard.
Municipal downspout rules and gutter installer licences
Replacing gutters doesn't usually call for a building permit, but check with your municipality, because where the water goes can be regulated. Downspouts connected to the sewer system are not allowed in some Canadian municipalities, and some offer programs that help homeowners disconnect them. The Government of Canada suggests checking with your local government and a roofing professional before deciding where your downspouts will drain.
In Quebec, a contractor who installs gutters for you should hold a Régie du bâtiment du Québec licence that covers the work. Look up the company in the RBQ registry before you sign, and make sure its name matches the one on the quote.
Gutter Installation: frequently asked questions
Are seamless gutters better than sectional gutters?
For a whole house, usually yes. Seamless runs only have joints at the corners and outlets, so there are fewer seals to fail after years of freeze–thaw cycles. Sectional systems still make sense for small outbuildings or quick fixes.
How many downspouts does my house need?
It depends on the roof area and the length of each run. Government of Canada guidance suggests one downspout for every 6 m to 12 m (20 to 40 ft.) of eavestrough, and your installer will also look at where the water can safely go.
Will new gutters stop ice dams?
No. Ice dams start on the roof itself, and gutters can't prevent them. What a good installation can do is carry the weight of ice that forms in the trough without pulling loose, thanks to sturdy, closely spaced hangers.
Should I replace the fascia when I get new gutters?
If the fascia is soft, rotten or pulling away, yes. New gutters need solid wood behind them, and it's much easier to fix while the old troughs are off.
Can gutters be installed in winter?
It's possible when the roof edge is clear and conditions are safe, but sealants and crews work best in mild weather. Late spring to fall is the usual season for new installations.
Does every side of the house need gutters?
Not always. A roof edge that sheds little water onto ground sloping well away from the house may do without. Any eave that drops water near the foundation, a door or a walkway should have one.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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What affects the cost of gutter
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Roof size and the number of layers to remove
- Roofing material
- Slope and how steep the roof is to work on
- Access to the roof and the site
- Condition of the decking underneath
- Flashing, vents, skylights and chimneys to work around
- Amount of repair work compared with a full replacement
How to compare gutter installers before you hire
- Ask for a written quote that lists the materials, the scope of work and what happens if damaged decking is found once the old roof is off.
- Look for a roofer who inspects the roof in person, including the attic if possible, before giving you a price.
- Check that they carry liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage, since roof work is high-risk.
- Compare quotes on the same scope: tear-off or overlay, underlayment, flashing, vents and cleanup.
- Ask to see recent roofs they've done that are similar to yours in material and slope.
Questions to ask gutter installers before you hire
- Will you remove the old roofing or install over it, and why?
- How will you handle damaged decking or other surprises once the roof is open?
- Who will pull the permit if one is needed?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship, and how long does it last?
- How will you protect my yard, gutters and siding, and how will you clean up nails and debris?
- Will your own crew do the work, or will you use subcontractors?
When to call a pro for gutter
- Water stains on ceilings or in the attic after rain or snowmelt
- Missing, curled or cracked shingles, or granules collecting in the gutters
- Sagging areas on the roof, which should be looked at by a professional right away
- Ice dams that keep forming along the edge of the roof
Gutter permits and local rules
Some gutter work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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