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Exterior Waterproofing

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Seal exterior walls, brick and masonry against water. Tell us about your exterior waterproofing project and we’ll help you find local waterproofing contractors who serve your area.

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Above ground, exterior waterproofing means keeping rain and meltwater out of the walls of the house and out of the structure under balconies and decks that sit over living space. Most wall leaks don't come through the middle of a wall. They come in at the details: around windows and doors, at pipes, vents and light fixtures, where a balcony or deck meets the house, and along parapets and wall tops, where water collects and wind pushes it inward.

Waterproofing contractors, building envelope specialists, roofers and siding crews do this work, from rebuilding the flashing around a leaking window to replacing the membrane on a balcony over a bedroom. The fix is rarely a coating sprayed over the outside. It usually means finding exactly where water gets in and rebuilding the layers that should have sent it back out: the water-resistive barrier, the flashing and, on surfaces people walk on, the membrane.

This page explains where water typically gets into walls, how barriers and flashing work, how balconies and decks over living space are waterproofed, when masonry water repellents help or hurt, how leaks are traced and why condo balcony work goes through the board. Below-grade walls are covered on the foundation waterproofing page.

Where water gets into above-grade walls: windows, penetrations, balconies and parapets

Water needs an opening and a force to move it, whether gravity, wind pressure or wicking. That's why leaks cluster wherever the wall is interrupted.

  • Windows and doors: missing head flashing, failed sill pans and joints that have opened between the frame and the wall.
  • Penetrations: dryer and bathroom vents, pipes, hose bibs, lights, cables and railing brackets fastened through the cladding.
  • Balcony and deck connections: the ledger or slab edge where a balcony meets the wall, and the door threshold that opens onto it.
  • Parapets and wall tops: cracked or loose caps and copings that let water run straight down into the wall below.
  • Roof-to-wall junctions: where a lower roof meets a taller wall and the flashing doesn't turn water out onto the roof.
  • Clues indoors: stains or peeling paint below windows, damp baseboards, musty smells or a ceiling stain under a balcony.

Water-resistive barriers and flashing: the layers that shed water behind the cladding

Behind the cladding, a water-resistive barrier covers the sheathing and carries any water that gets past the finish down and out. It only works if every piece is lapped so the upper layer overlaps the one below, like shingles, and if it's tied into the flashing at every opening. A barrier that is torn, reversed or tucked behind a flashing instead of over it can channel water straight into the wall.

Flashing is the metal or membrane that turns water back outside where the wall is interrupted: over window and door heads, under sills, at the base of walls, where a roof meets a wall and on top of parapets. Many chronic leaks come down to one flashing that was left out, installed backwards or covered over in a later renovation. Caulking helps at the surface but can't stand in for flashing; sealants are covered on the exterior caulking page.

Waterproofing balconies and decks over living space: membranes, slope and drains

A balcony or deck built over a bedroom, a garage or an enclosed room is really a small flat roof that people walk on. It needs a continuous waterproof membrane, a slope that carries water to an edge or a drain, and careful flashing where it meets the wall and the door sill. Depending on the design, the membrane may be a sheet product, a liquid-applied coating or a built-up system, often protected by pavers on pedestals, decking on sleepers or a traffic-rated surface.

Most failures start at the edges: the joint with the wall, the door sill, railing posts screwed down through the membrane, and drains or scuppers clogged with leaves and ice. When the walking surface has to come up to reach the membrane, it's worth rebuilding those details rather than patching the one obvious spot. Rot or corrosion found underneath needs a qualified contractor or engineer before new waterproofing goes on.

Masonry water repellents: penetrating vs film-forming, and why caution is needed

Clear water repellents are the product most homeowners picture when they think of waterproofing brick or stone. Penetrating repellents soak into the surface and reduce how much rain it absorbs while, in principle, still letting vapour out. Film-forming sealers and paints sit on top and can stop the wall from drying. Either kind can trap moisture and salts if water is already getting in behind it, and the result can be flaking and spalling after a few winters.

A repellent never replaces fixing cracked joints, failed caps, missing flashing or overflowing gutters. Where one is justified, a mason or envelope specialist should confirm the wall can dry, choose a breathable product suited to that masonry and try it on a small area first. The brick repair and masonry pages explain why old, soft brick deserves extra caution.

Diagnosing wall and balcony leaks before waterproofing

Water often travels along framing, membranes and pipes before it shows, so a ceiling stain may start some distance from the actual opening. A good diagnosis combines inspection inside and out, moisture readings, infrared imaging when conditions suit it and, where needed, controlled water testing that wets one detail at a time until the leak appears. Sometimes a small opening in the cladding or the interior finish is the only way to see what's going on.

  • Note when it leaks: in wind-driven rain from one direction, during snowmelt or only when a balcony is hosed down.
  • Photograph stains and mark their outline with the date so changes can be tracked.
  • Check whether the stain lines up with a window, vent, railing post or balcony door above it.
  • Rule out plumbing first when stains appear in dry weather; the water leak detection page covers that side.

Condo balconies are common property: check with the board before waterproofing

In a condominium, the balcony usually isn't yours alone to repair. The Condominium Authority of Ontario explains that balconies and other exclusive-use common elements are owned by the corporation even though owners use them exclusively, and that most owner-proposed changes need board approval and a formal agreement under the Condo Act. In Quebec divided co-ownerships, balconies are typically part of the common portions, often reserved for one unit's use, and the declaration of co-ownership says who looks after them.

Before hiring anyone to seal, tile or re-membrane a condo balcony, read the declaration and by-laws and talk to the board or property manager. Unapproved work can damage the building's membrane, get in the way of the corporation's own repairs and leave you paying to undo it. For a house or plex in Quebec, make sure the contractor holds RBQ subclass 7.0, which covers insulation, waterproofing, roofing and siding.

Maintaining above-grade waterproofing: drains, caps, flashing and balcony surfaces

  • Clear balcony and deck drains, scuppers and gutters of leaves before winter and again in spring.
  • Clear snow from balconies over living space with a plastic shovel, and never chip ice off a membrane.
  • After winter, look from the ground with binoculars at parapet caps, window head flashing and roof-to-wall junctions.
  • Keep planters, furniture feet and new railing fasteners from cutting or puncturing a balcony membrane.
  • Have stains below windows or balconies checked promptly, before hidden sheathing or framing decays.

Exterior Waterproofing: frequently asked questions

Can a wall be waterproofed with a spray-on sealer?

Rarely. Most wall leaks come in at windows, penetrations, caps and balcony connections, which a surface coating doesn't fix. On masonry, the wrong sealer can even trap moisture.

Why does my wall leak only in wind-driven rain?

Wind pushes water sideways and even upward past joints and flashing that handle ordinary rain. It usually points to a detail on the exposed side, such as a window head or a vent.

What waterproofing does a deck over a room need?

A continuous membrane sloped to drains or edges, flashed into the wall and door sill and usually protected by pavers or decking. It is essentially a small flat roof.

Who is responsible for waterproofing my condo balcony?

It depends on the declaration and by-laws. Balconies are usually common property the corporation owns, so talk to the board before hiring anyone.

Is exterior waterproofing the same as foundation waterproofing?

No. This page covers walls, balconies and decks above ground. Below-grade walls need different membranes and drainage, covered on the foundation waterproofing page.

How is the source of a wall leak found?

By noting when it leaks, checking what sits above the stain and using moisture readings or controlled water tests. If stains appear in dry weather, rule out plumbing with leak detection first.

Sources

  1. What are common elements in a condo and can you change them — Condominium Authority of Ontario
  2. Specialized contractor licence subclasses — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
  3. Check a contractor's licence — Régie du bâtiment du Québec

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of exterior waterproofing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the area and the height of the walls
  • Material chosen
  • Removal of the existing material
  • Repairs needed to what's underneath
  • Access, including ladders, scaffolding or lifts
  • Trim, corners and openings to work around

How to compare waterproofing contractors before you hire

  • Choose a pro who works regularly with your material, whether that's siding, stucco, brick, eavestroughs or soffit and fascia.
  • Ask them to explain what's causing the problem, not only how they'll cover it up.
  • Get a written quote that separates removal, repairs to what's underneath and the new finish.
  • For chimney and masonry work, look for someone with specific masonry experience rather than a general handyman.
  • Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or scaffolding.

Questions to ask waterproofing contractors before you hire

  • What do you think is causing the damage, and will your work fix the cause?
  • Will you check the sheathing or wall underneath once the old material is off?
  • How will you handle water management, such as flashing, caulking and drainage?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

When to call a pro for exterior waterproofing

  • Gutters that overflow, pull away from the house or drain next to the foundation
  • Loose, cracked or bulging siding, stucco or brick
  • Crumbling mortar or loose bricks on a chimney

Exterior waterproofing permits and local rules

Some exterior waterproofing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

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