Exterior Trim near you

The right material depends on how exposed the trim is, the style of the house and how much upkeep you're prepared for. Mixing materials is common, for example rot-resistant trim close to the ground and wood where detailed profiles matter.

Trim rot starts where water sits or soaks in, and it often hides under paint that still looks fine. A screwdriver that sinks easily into ground-floor trim is the classic test; check higher trim with binoculars and leave closer inspection to the contractor. The usual trouble spots:

Soft trim can be a symptom of water reaching the wall, not just the board. When trim comes off, the contractor should check the sheathing, framing and window or door flashing behind it before closing up.

Capping, or trim wrapping, covers existing wood trim with prefinished aluminum bent to fit each board. It's popular because it ends repainting, and over sound wood that stays dry it can protect the trim well. If you choose it, have rotten wood replaced first, and ask how the installer will lap the metal at sills, head casings and joints so water drains out rather than in.

On wood trim, paint is the weatherproofing. Once it peels or cracks, water gets into the grain, so trim often needs repainting before the siding around it, especially sills and the sunniest or most exposed sides. New wood trim should be primed on all faces and cut ends before it goes up, not only on the side that shows. See our exterior painting page for preparation and paint choices.

Caulking seals the joints between trim and siding and around windows and doors, but it doesn't replace flashing, and it shouldn't close the gaps and weep openings that let water drain out. See our exterior caulking page for sealant types and how old caulk is removed.

Localized rot can often be cut out and replaced with a new piece of the same profile, joined with angled splices that shed water. Small damaged areas on detailed mouldings can be rebuilt with epoxy consolidants and fillers made for exterior use, which keeps original material in place.

Full replacement makes sense when rot runs through most of a board, when you're changing materials, or when new siding or windows mean the trim has to come off anyway. In that case, plan the trim, flashing and siding together so the details work as one system.

Old trim usually carries many coats of paint. Health Canada says lead-based paint is probable in homes built before 1960 and that homes built from 1960 to 1990 may have it on exterior surfaces. It advises against sanders, heat guns and torches, which release toxic dust and fumes, and suggests lab testing of paint chips or a contractor with lead-detection equipment. Ask how the crew will test, contain debris and clean up before any scraping.

Trim carries much of a heritage house's character. In Quebec, repairing or changing the appearance of a classified building, or one in a declared or classified heritage site or protection area, requires authorization from the Ministry of Culture, and municipalities set the rules for cited properties; capping trim or changing a moulding profile can alter that appearance. The Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada favour repairing original elements and replicating those that can't be saved, which on trim usually means milling new pieces to match.