Exterior Cladding
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Exterior cladding is the finish layer of the whole wall, and choosing it is one of the biggest decisions in renovating the outside of a house. Beyond familiar vinyl and aluminum, homeowners now weigh fibre cement boards and panels, engineered wood, flat or ribbed metal panels, natural and manufactured stone veneer, natural wood and brick veneer, often combining two or three on one facade. Each changes how the house looks, how much the wall has to carry, how it behaves in a fire and how much upkeep it asks for.
Re-cladding is also the rare moment when the entire outside of the wall is open. That makes it the time to repair sheathing, install a proper water-resistive barrier and flashing, build a drained rainscreen gap behind the new finish and, in many cases, add a continuous layer of insulation over the old wall. Cladding contractors, masons and general contractors do this work, sometimes with an architect or designer when the look of the house changes.
This page compares cladding materials, explains rainscreen walls and exterior insulation, touches on fire rules for walls close to a property line and covers permits and heritage districts. For vinyl and aluminum specifics, see the siding page; stucco has a page of its own.
Exterior cladding options beyond standard siding: fibre cement, engineered wood, metal, stone veneer, wood and brick
The notes below are general. How a cladding performs depends as much on its installation details and the manufacturer's instructions as on the material itself.
- Fibre cement: boards, shingles and large panels that won't rot, in smooth or textured finishes, heavy enough that crews handle them carefully and cut them with dust control.
- Engineered wood: resin-bonded wood strands pressed into boards and panels that look like wood but rely on sealed edges, proper clearances and a sound finish to stay dry.
- Metal panels: steel or aluminum in lap, vertical, ribbed or flat architectural panels, long-lasting and rot-proof, with fastening and expansion details that vary by system.
- Stone veneer: thin natural or manufactured stone adhered over a drainage layer, or full-thickness stone anchored to the wall like brick, both far heavier than panel cladding.
- Natural wood: cedar or other species as clapboard, shingles, board-and-batten or tongue-and-groove, warm-looking but combustible and in need of regular refinishing.
- Brick veneer: a single layer of brick tied to the frame over an air space, very durable, but it needs a foundation ledge or other support to sit on.
Lightweight panels vs masonry veneers: what the wall and foundation must carry
The biggest practical split is weight. Fibre cement, engineered wood, metal and wood hang on the wall framing and sheathing, so they can usually replace old siding without structural changes. Full-thickness stone and brick are another matter: they need a ledge on the foundation or a steel support to bear on, ties back to the structure and room for a drainage cavity, which a house originally built for siding usually lacks. Adding them to an existing home often calls for an engineer or designer to confirm the support.
Adhered thin stone and manufactured stone weigh less than full masonry, but they depend heavily on the drainage layer behind them and on flashing and clearances at the ground, roof lines and windows. Poorly detailed adhered veneer can hold water against the sheathing without showing much from outside, so ask exactly how water that gets behind it will drain away.
Rainscreen cladding: the drained air gap, membrane and flashing behind the finish
No cladding keeps out every drop of wind-driven rain. A rainscreen wall accepts that and builds a second line of defence: a water-resistive barrier over the sheathing, a narrow gap formed with vertical strapping or a drainage mat, and the cladding fastened over it. Water that slips past the finish runs down the gap and out at the bottom, and air moving through the space helps both the back of the cladding and the wall dry.
- Water-resistive barrier: a membrane lapped shingle-style, so water always runs over the layer below and never behind it.
- Strapping or drainage mat: sets the depth of the gap and gives the cladding something solid to fasten to.
- Flashing: at the base of the wall, over windows and doors and wherever a wall meets a roof, turning water back outside.
- Insect screen: across the open top and bottom of the gap, keeping insects and rodents out while letting air and water through.
- Clearances: space between the cladding and the ground, decks and roofs, so snow and splash-back don't soak the bottom edge.
Adding exterior insulation when re-cladding: continuous insulation over the old wall
Wood studs let heat through much more readily than the insulation between them, so a wall insulated only inside its frame loses heat through every stud. Rigid or semi-rigid boards installed over the sheathing as a continuous layer cover that framing and keep the sheathing warmer. In the walls section of Keeping the Heat In, Natural Resources Canada notes that significant amounts of insulation can be added from outside because space is usually not a limit, except where lot-line restrictions or limited roof overhangs get in the way, and that vertical or diagonal strapping over the insulation helps, among other things, to reduce thermal bridging.
The same guide says a new air barrier can go on the outside while the existing vapour barrier stays inside, and asks renovators to plan for extending window and door jambs and for vents, electrical service, gas and oil pipes, eavestroughs and downpipes as the wall grows thicker. It also sets out when a new vapour barrier can go over the old wall. That is a moisture decision for the contractor or designer, since the wrong layer in the wrong place can trap water inside the wall.
Fire safety for combustible cladding near property lines
Walls close to a property line or a neighbouring house face stricter fire rules. Building codes, including the National Building Code of Canada that most provinces adapt, contain spatial separation requirements that can limit window area, call for more fire-resistant wall construction and restrict combustible cladding on walls near a lot line. Wood and engineered wood are combustible, while fibre cement, metal, stone and brick resist fire far better.
The rules depend on the distance, the size of the wall and its openings and the code in force where you live, so switching from brick to wood on a side wall close to the neighbours needs checking with the municipality before materials are ordered. The same goes for thick exterior insulation, which moves the face of the wall closer to the line and adds its own material to the assembly.
Repair, overclad or fully re-clad: setting the scope of a cladding project
Whatever the scope, ask for the wall assembly in writing: membrane, gap, insulation, cladding and flashing details, not just the finish material and colour.
- Repair when the damage is limited to a few pieces or one wall and matching material is still available.
- Consider full re-cladding when the finish is failing on several walls or water has reached the sheathing in more than one spot.
- Be wary of new cladding installed over old: it hides the condition of the wall and may leave no room for a proper drainage gap.
- Plan cladding, windows and exterior insulation together when more than one is due, so flashing and trim are designed once.
- Get a moisture assessment first when there are interior stains, mould or soft spots, since the cause needs fixing before any new finish goes on.
Permits for re-cladding, heritage districts and RBQ licences
Changing a home's cladding often needs a municipal permit, especially when the material or the look of the facade changes, when exterior insulation thickens the walls or when a wall stands close to a property line. Some municipalities also regulate materials and colours on certain streets or in heritage districts, so ask before choosing. In Quebec, classified heritage properties need authorization from the Ministry of Culture before they are altered, while cited properties and sites fall under municipal control.
In Quebec, cladding work falls under RBQ specialized contractor subclass 7.0, which covers insulation, waterproofing, roofing and siding, while stone and brick veneers fall under the masonry subclasses 4.1 or 4.2. Check the licence in the RBQ registry before signing.
Exterior Cladding: frequently asked questions
What's the difference between cladding and siding?
Cladding is the broad term for any exterior wall finish, including stone, brick, metal panels and stucco. Siding usually means lap or panel products such as vinyl, aluminum, wood or fibre cement boards. The siding page covers vinyl and aluminum in detail.
What is a rainscreen wall?
It's a wall where the cladding is held off a water-resistive barrier by strapping or a drainage mat, leaving a gap that lets water drain out and the wall dry.
Can stone veneer be added to an existing house?
Often, depending on the type. Full-thickness stone needs a foundation ledge or other support and ties to the structure, which may call for an engineer. Adhered thin stone is lighter but must go over a drainage layer with careful flashing.
Is re-cladding a good time to add exterior insulation?
Usually, yes. Natural Resources Canada notes that significant amounts of insulation can be added from outside, but window and door jambs, vents and other penetrations have to be extended as the wall gets thicker.
Can I put wood cladding on a wall close to my neighbour's house?
Maybe not. Building codes restrict combustible cladding and openings on walls near property lines. Check with your municipality before ordering materials.
Do I need a permit to change my exterior cladding?
Often, especially when the material or appearance changes, when the walls get thicker or when the house is in a heritage district. Check with your municipality before signing a contract.
Sources
- Keeping the Heat In, Section 7: Insulating walls — Natural Resources Canada
- National Building Code of Canada 2020 — National Research Council Canada
- Doing work on a heritage property or in a heritage site — Gouvernement du Québec
- Specialized contractor licence subclasses — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
- Check a contractor's licence — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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What affects the cost of cladding
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size of the area and the height of the walls
- Material chosen
- Removal of the existing material
- Repairs needed to what's underneath
- Access, including ladders, scaffolding or lifts
- Trim, corners and openings to work around
How to compare cladding contractors before you hire
- Choose a pro who works regularly with your material, whether that's siding, stucco, brick, eavestroughs or soffit and fascia.
- Ask them to explain what's causing the problem, not only how they'll cover it up.
- Get a written quote that separates removal, repairs to what's underneath and the new finish.
- For chimney and masonry work, look for someone with specific masonry experience rather than a general handyman.
- Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or scaffolding.
Questions to ask cladding contractors before you hire
- What do you think is causing the damage, and will your work fix the cause?
- Will you check the sheathing or wall underneath once the old material is off?
- How will you handle water management, such as flashing, caulking and drainage?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
When to call a pro for cladding
- Gutters that overflow, pull away from the house or drain next to the foundation
- Loose, cracked or bulging siding, stucco or brick
- Crumbling mortar or loose bricks on a chimney
Cladding permits and local rules
Some cladding work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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