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Caulking

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Recaulk tubs, showers, sinks and counters. Tell us about your caulking project and we’ll help you find local handymen who serve your area.

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Caulking is the flexible seal in the joints of a home that move or get wet: where a tub meets the tile, a sink meets the counter, a backsplash meets the countertop, trim meets a wall, and where pipes, vents and wires pass through the outside walls. A recaulking job usually means cutting out old, cracked or mouldy beads, cleaning the joint and laying a new bead of the right sealant, one room at a time or across the whole house in a single visit.

It is a small job with large consequences. A failed bead at the tub lets water run behind the tile and into the subfloor, a gap at the counter lets spills reach the cabinet below, and an open hole where a cable enters the house invites drafts, rain and insects. Done well, a fresh bead looks crisp and holds; laid over old caulk or on a damp joint, it can peel away within weeks.

This page covers where caulking goes, how caulk differs from grout, which sealant suits which joint, the signs a bead is failing, how old caulk comes out and a tub is recaulked, mould in bathroom caulking, and sealing the places where services pass through exterior walls. Joints around window frames have their own page on window caulking.

Where caulking goes: tubs, showers, sinks, counters, trim and exterior penetrations

  • Tubs and showers: the joint between the tub or shower base and the wall tile, the inside corners of tiled walls, and the gaps around the spout, valve trim and shower arm.
  • Sinks: the rim of a drop-in sink, the joint under an undermount sink and the base of the faucet where it sits on the counter.
  • Counters and backsplashes: the line where the backsplash meets the countertop and where a counter meets a side wall.
  • Toilets and floors: the base of the toilet, and the joint where a tub or shower base meets the finished floor.
  • Interior trim: baseboards, casings and crown moulding, where paintable caulk closes gaps before painting; Natural Resources Canada's list of indoor air leaks includes interior trim and baseboards and the areas behind bathtubs and under sinks.
  • Outside: the holes where pipes, cables, wires and vents pass through the wall, and the joints around hose bibs, light fixtures and trim boards.

Caulk vs grout: which bathroom and kitchen joints get which

Grout and caulk look alike but do different jobs. Grout fills the flat joints between tiles, which stay rigid. Caulk goes wherever two surfaces meet at an angle or two different materials meet, because those joints move with temperature, humidity and the weight of a filled tub. Grout in those spots cracks, and a crack in the joint between tub and wall is a direct path for water.

Tile setters usually treat the inside corners of a tiled shower, the joint where tile meets a tub or shower base, the line where a backsplash meets the counter and the edges of a tiled floor as movement joints that get a flexible sealant, often tinted to match the grout. When a grout line in one of those corners keeps cracking, the lasting fix is to rake it out and caulk it rather than regrout it.

Silicone, acrylic latex, polyurethane and butyl: choosing caulk by joint

Natural Resources Canada's materials guide compares common caulks and shows how much they differ in durability, in the surfaces they bond to and in whether they take paint. The label, and for fixtures the manufacturer's instructions, have the last word.

  • Silicone bonds to non-porous surfaces such as ceramic tile, glass and some plastics, which makes it the usual choice for tubs, showers and sinks, though NRCan notes most types can't be painted.
  • Acrylic latex cleans up with water and takes paint, so it suits baseboards, casings and crown moulding, but not joints that sit in water.
  • NRCan rates acrylic latex blended with silicone as more durable than plain acrylic latex, with the same water cleanup.
  • Polyurethane grips most surfaces and stays flexible after curing, and NRCan lists it for exterior use only.
  • NRCan calls for ventilation while most caulks are applied or cure, so a window is opened or a fan run during indoor work.

Signs caulking needs replacing: gaps, peeling, stains and water damage

  • The bead has pulled away from one side of the joint, leaving a gap you can slip a fingernail into.
  • It has cracked, shrunk, hardened or crumbled, or pieces are missing altogether.
  • Black or pink spots stay in the caulk after cleaning, a sign that mould has grown into it.
  • Tiles next to the tub or shower sound hollow, feel loose or have cracked grout above a failing bead.
  • Water stains, bubbling paint or a soft spot appear on the ceiling below a bathroom or on the floor beside the tub.
  • Outside, you can see daylight or feel air moving around a pipe, cable or vent.

Removing old caulk and recaulking a tub or shower properly

New caulk doesn't stick to old caulk, soap film or moisture, so most of the time on a recaulking job goes into removal, cleaning and drying rather than into the new bead.

  • The old bead is cut free along both edges and pulled out, taking care not to scratch an acrylic, fibreglass or enamelled tub.
  • Silicone residue is taken off with a remover made for the purpose, since fresh silicone won't bond to a silicone film.
  • Soap scum and mildew are cleaned from the joint, which is then left until it is completely dry.
  • Many installers fill the tub with water before caulking so the joint is at its widest, and drain it only once the caulk has cured.
  • Wide or deep joints get foam backer rod first, so the bead keeps the right shape instead of sinking.
  • Tape on both sides of the joint keeps the lines straight, and the bead is tooled smooth before the tape comes off.
  • The shower stays off for the full cure time on the label, which varies by product.
  • In an older home, hard original caulk is tested before removal, since Health Canada lists caulking among the materials in older buildings that may contain asbestos.

Mould in shower and tub caulking: cleaning it, replacing it and keeping it away

Mould on caulk starts as surface spots, which can be cleaned. Health Canada advises scrubbing with a cloth and an unscented soap solution, then drying the surface completely and quickly, and it recommends against using bleach to clean up mould. Once mould has grown into the caulk and the stains won't lift, the bead has to be cut out, and Health Canada's bathroom advice itself calls for repairing or replacing open, cracked or damaged tiles, grout and caulking around showers and tubs.

New caulk only stays clean if the bathroom dries out. Health Canada recommends running an exhaust fan while you shower or bathe and for at least 30 minutes afterward, squeegeeing and drying the walls around the tub and shower, and keeping indoor relative humidity between 30% and 50%. Mould that returns after cleaning, or a single patch larger than 3 m², points to a bigger moisture problem, and Health Canada advises calling in a professional.

Exterior caulking around pipes, vents and wires: what to seal and what to leave open

Outside, caulking keeps water, drafts and pests out of the holes every house needs. A walk around the house in spring or fall, checking each place where something passes through the wall, catches most failures before they cause damage.

  • Seal the small gaps around hose bibs, dryer and fan vent hoods, air conditioner line sets, cable and phone lines and exterior light fixtures.
  • Leave vent flaps, the bottom edges of lap siding and the weep holes in brick veneer open, since they let air or water escape by design.
  • Close larger holes, such as an abandoned opening, with a patch or backing first, since caulk alone won't bridge them.
  • Sealant goes around the wall opening only, never on an electrical fitting, a gas pipe, a meter or a regulator vent, and work on wiring or gas piping belongs to a licensed electrician or gas fitter.
  • Test painted exterior trim before scraping it, since Health Canada says a home built before 1960 probably contains lead-based paint and the exterior of one built between 1960 and 1990 may.
  • Plan outdoor caulking for mild, dry weather, within the temperature range on the label.

Caulking: frequently asked questions

How often should a bathtub or shower be recaulked?

There's no fixed schedule. Replace the bead when it cracks, pulls away, peels or holds mould that won't clean off. A quick look whenever you clean the bathroom catches problems early.

Can I put new caulk over old caulk?

Not as a lasting fix. New caulk bonds poorly to old caulk, especially silicone, and traps any mould or moisture underneath. The old bead should come out and the joint be cleaned and dried first.

Why does mould keep coming back on my shower caulk?

Usually the joint stays damp or the mould has grown into the caulk. Replace the stained bead, squeegee the walls, and run the fan during showers and for at least 30 minutes afterward, as Health Canada advises.

Should I use silicone or latex caulk in the bathroom?

Silicone for joints that get wet, such as tubs, showers and sinks, since it bonds well to tile and glass. Paintable acrylic latex suits dry trim and baseboards that will be painted.

Should a toilet be caulked to the floor?

Many installers caulk around the base to keep mop water and spills from getting underneath, and some leave a short gap at the back so a leaking seal shows up instead of quietly damaging the subfloor. Ask your plumber what suits your floor.

Sources

  1. Keeping the Heat In, Section 3: Materials — Natural Resources Canada
  2. Keeping the Heat In, Section 4: Comprehensive air leakage control — Natural Resources Canada
  3. Guide to addressing moisture and mould indoors — Health Canada
  4. Health risks of asbestos — Health Canada
  5. Lead-based paint — Health Canada

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of caulking

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number and type of tasks
  • Time needed and any minimum visit charge
  • Materials and parts
  • Wall type and what's being mounted or hung
  • Height and access

How to compare handymen before you hire

  • Describe all the small jobs up front so the handyman can bring the right tools and give you a realistic estimate.
  • Ask whether they charge by the hour, by the job or with a minimum visit fee.
  • For anything involving wiring, gas or new plumbing, use a licensed trade instead of a general handyman.
  • Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or on the exterior.
  • Ask whether they supply materials or whether you should buy them ahead of time.

Questions to ask handymen before you hire

  • Do you charge by the hour or by the job, and is there a minimum?
  • Can you do all of the jobs on my list, or will some need a licensed trade?
  • Will you bring the materials, or should I buy them?
  • Are you insured if something is damaged while you're working?
  • How do you handle it if a job takes longer than expected?

Caulking permits and local rules

Some caulking work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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