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Weatherstripping

Weatherstripping near you

Replace worn weatherstripping and door sweeps to stop drafts. Tell us about your weatherstripping project and we’ll help you find local handymen who serve your area.

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Weatherstripping seals the parts of a house that open and close: the gap between an exterior door and its frame, the bottom of the door against the sill, the sashes of operable windows and the panel of an attic hatch. Caulking handles joints that stay still, while weatherstripping has to seal a gap that opens every time someone walks through, so it is made of foam, rubber, vinyl, pile or metal that compresses or springs back.

It wears out faster than almost anything else in the building envelope. Strips flatten, tear, stiffen in the cold and come unstuck, doors sag until they no longer meet the seal, and older windows lose their original strips entirely. New weatherstripping is one of the quickest ways to stop a draft you can feel, but only when the right profile goes on a door or window that closes properly.

This page covers the main types of weatherstripping, door sweeps versus thresholds, fitting exterior doors, matching strips to each kind of window, finding drafts, sealing the attic hatch and knowing when worn seals should go. Hidden leaks in the attic and basement are covered under air sealing, and the full seasonal package under weatherization.

Types of weatherstripping: V-strip, foam, rubber, tubular, magnetic and pile

Natural Resources Canada's materials guide sorts weatherstripping by how it seals: compression strips squeeze shut when the door or window closes, tension strips spring against a sliding or swinging surface, and door bottoms close the gap at the sill.

  • Closed-cell foam tape is adhesive-backed and conforms to uneven surfaces, and NRCan suggests it where there is pressure, such as along the bottom of vertical sliding windows, though vinyl versions may crack over time.
  • Ribbed closed-cell rubber is very durable and easy to install, NRCan says, but less suited to long or uneven gaps.
  • Tubular or bulb stripping is fastened with nails, staples or screws, and since its durability depends on whether it is rubber or plastic, NRCan advises checking that it suits cold weather.
  • Spring vinyl, often called V-strip, works where compression strips do and in the sliding joints of double-hung windows and doors.
  • Spring metal is mostly used on doors, but NRCan warns that it can deform permanently and may ice up.
  • Magnetic strips are durable but very visible, and NRCan notes they may not seal well in cold conditions because of condensation and frost.

Door sweeps vs thresholds: sealing the gap under an exterior door

The bottom of a door is usually where the biggest, most obvious gap is, and there are two ways to close it. NRCan's materials guide compares them directly: a door sweep is easier to install than a threshold and more durable, but often gives a less effective seal, while a threshold gives an excellent seal but is less durable. Its window and door guide adds that a good seal can usually be had with gasketed door-bottom weatherstripping attached to the door, or with full or partial threshold weatherstripping attached to the sill.

In practice the choice depends on the floor and the traffic. A sweep suits a door over tile or hardwood that can't take a raised sill, while an adjustable threshold, raised with screws until it meets the door bottom evenly, suits a door whose sill is already in place. Doors that drag across a mat or an uneven floor wear sweeps out quickly, and frost at a bottom corner in winter usually marks where the seal isn't meeting the sill.

Weatherstripping an exterior door: frame seals, strike plate and hinges

NRCan calls a good-quality V-shaped vinyl strip the easiest and most effective weatherstripping for a door frame, and notes that many combination strips of metal and foam or rubber are screwed to the door stop. Whatever the product, a strip only works if the door closes against it evenly all the way around.

  • Many modern steel and fibreglass doors use a seal pressed into a slot in the frame, so the installer matches the profile, often by bringing a piece of the old seal to a supplier.
  • Strips screwed to the stop are set so the latched door just compresses them, and they need adjusting from time to time as the door shifts.
  • A door that has sagged on its hinges is adjusted or shimmed first, since no strip can close a gap that is wide at the top and tight at the bottom.
  • The strike plate may be moved so the latch pulls the door firmly into the new seal.

Weatherstripping windows by type: double-hung, sliding, casement and old wood sashes

  • Double- and single-hung windows: V-strip or spring vinyl in the side channels where the sash slides, and a compression strip along the bottom rail and where the two sashes meet.
  • Sliding windows and patio doors: brush or pile seals in the sash, which on many windows means lifting the sash out to replace them; for sliding patio doors, NRCan advises replacing weatherstripping and hardware when worn.
  • Casement and awning windows: compression gaskets that the crank or latch pulls tight, usually a profile specific to the window maker, so bring a sample or the details from the window's label.
  • Old wood windows: spring metal or foam in the sash channels, often after painted-shut sashes are freed and their edges cleaned up.
  • Before painted sash edges are scraped or planed in an older home, have the paint tested, since Health Canada says a home built before 1960 probably contains lead-based paint and warns against sanders and heat guns on it.

Finding drafts at doors, windows and hatches before replacing weatherstripping

New strips put on without knowing where the air comes in often miss the leak. Besides smoke from incense on a windy day, NRCan describes a rudimentary fan test: close all the windows and doors and turn on the exhaust appliances, such as bathroom and kitchen fans, so outdoor air is pulled in through the gaps. It says to turn off any fuel-fired space and water heaters before starting, to prevent backdrafting of combustion gases.

  • Close the door or window on a strip of paper at several points; where it slides out easily, the seal isn't compressing.
  • Look for daylight around a closed exterior door, especially at the top corner on the latch side and along the bottom.
  • In winter, frost on the inside of a door frame or a dark line on the carpet at the threshold shows where air is getting through.
  • A draft between the frame and the wall, rather than at the moving parts, is a caulking or air sealing job, not a weatherstripping one.

Attic hatch weatherstripping: sealing the access panel at the top of the house

An attic hatch sits at the top of the house, where warm air pushes out hardest in winter, and it is often a loose panel resting on trim. NRCan's advice is to seal it exactly as you would an exterior door: caulk around the frame and between the casing and the ceiling drywall, weatherstrip the edges of the casing or the panel itself, and fit hooks with eyebolts or a latch that holds the hatch firmly against the weatherstripping. Its attic guide also suggests building a framework around the hatch so the insulation can be filled right to its edge.

  • Rigid insulation fastened to the top of the panel keeps the hatch from being the cold spot in the ceiling.
  • Pull-down attic stairs need a gasket where the frame meets the ceiling and an insulated cover over the opening on the attic side, since the folding stair itself seals poorly.
  • If opening the hatch reveals vermiculite, damp insulation or frost on the roof boards, stop there and call the right professional before anyone works in the attic.

When to replace weatherstripping, and why some types outlast others

Weatherstripping has no fixed replacement date. How long it lasts depends on the material, how often the door or window is used, how much sun it gets and how cold the winters are, and NRCan's comparison shows wide differences between types: ribbed rubber is rated very durable, spring metal can deform permanently, vinyl foam may crack over time, and sweeps outlast thresholds. A check each fall, before the heating season, catches worn strips while they are still easy to change.

  • Replace strips that are flattened, split or hardened, or that no longer spring back when pressed.
  • Replace adhesive-backed foam that has peeled away rather than sticking it back over old adhesive.
  • Replace door sweeps whose fins or bristles are worn, torn or curled.

Weatherstripping: frequently asked questions

How do I know if my door weatherstripping needs replacing?

Close the door on a strip of paper at several spots; if it pulls out easily, the seal isn't working there. Daylight around the door, a draft you can feel, or strips that are flattened, torn or stiff also mean it's time.

Can weatherstripping be replaced on a steel or fibreglass door?

Usually. Many use a seal pressed into a slot in the frame, which pulls out and is replaced with a matching profile. Bringing a piece of the old seal makes the right one much easier to find.

Why is my door hard to close after new weatherstripping?

The new seal may be thicker than the old one, or the strike plate may need moving. Some seals ease a little as they settle, but a door that won't latch should be adjusted rather than forced.

Will new weatherstripping fix a drafty window?

Only if the air comes in where the sash meets the frame. Drafts around the outside of the frame need caulking or air sealing, and a window that no longer closes or latches tightly needs repair first.

Sources

  1. Keeping the Heat In, Section 3: Materials — Natural Resources Canada
  2. Keeping the Heat In, Section 4: Comprehensive air leakage control — Natural Resources Canada
  3. Keeping the Heat In, Section 5: Roofs and attics — Natural Resources Canada
  4. Keeping the Heat In, Section 8: Upgrading windows and exterior doors — Natural Resources Canada
  5. Lead-based paint — Health Canada

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of weatherstripping

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number and type of tasks
  • Time needed and any minimum visit charge
  • Materials and parts
  • Wall type and what's being mounted or hung
  • Height and access

How to compare handymen before you hire

  • Describe all the small jobs up front so the handyman can bring the right tools and give you a realistic estimate.
  • Ask whether they charge by the hour, by the job or with a minimum visit fee.
  • For anything involving wiring, gas or new plumbing, use a licensed trade instead of a general handyman.
  • Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or on the exterior.
  • Ask whether they supply materials or whether you should buy them ahead of time.

Questions to ask handymen before you hire

  • Do you charge by the hour or by the job, and is there a minimum?
  • Can you do all of the jobs on my list, or will some need a licensed trade?
  • Will you bring the materials, or should I buy them?
  • Are you insured if something is damaged while you're working?
  • How do you handle it if a job takes longer than expected?

Weatherstripping permits and local rules

Some weatherstripping work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

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