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What looks like a simple job depends on what's behind the wall. The electrician has to find a circuit with room for more outlets, route cable through finished walls and ceilings, and choose the right device for each spot, whether that's a ground-fault outlet near a sink, arc-fault protection on a bedroom circuit, a tamper-resistant receptacle, or a weatherproof outdoor outlet with a cover that closes over the cord.
This guide explains the outlet types you'll hear about, where the code calls for extra protection, how new outlets are added or relocated, and the permit rules that apply even to a single receptacle.
Types of outlets: standard, GFCI, AFCI, tamper-resistant, USB and 240-volt receptacles
- Standard receptacles: the everyday duplex outlet for lamps, electronics and small appliances, now installed in tamper-resistant versions.
- GFCI receptacles: outlets with test and reset buttons that cut power almost instantly when current leaks to ground, and that can also protect the outlets wired after them on the same circuit.
- AFCI protection: usually a breaker at the panel, sometimes a receptacle, that trips when it detects the arcing a damaged cord or a loose connection can produce.
- Tamper-resistant receptacles: spring-loaded shutters behind the slots open only when both prongs of a plug press in together.
- USB receptacles: a regular outlet with built-in charging ports, useful beside a bed, in a kitchen or at a home office desk.
- Outdoor receptacles: weather-resistant devices in a weatherproof box, with a cover that stays closed while a cord is plugged in.
- 240-volt receptacles: dedicated outlets for a range, a dryer or a workshop tool on a circuit sized for that appliance, while a Level 2 EV charger, which NRCan compares to a stove or dryer, is a separate EV charger installation project.
Where GFCI and AFCI protection is required: near sinks, outdoors and on extended circuits
Ground-fault protection guards people against shock where water and electricity meet. ESA states that all outlets within 1.5 metres of a sink must be GFCI-protected, which takes in kitchen counters, bathroom vanities and laundry tubs, and that all 120-volt, 15- and 20-amp receptacles in your backyard must be protected by a Class A GFCI. The protection can come from a GFCI receptacle or a GFCI breaker in the panel; the electrician chooses based on how the circuit is laid out and where you'll be able to reach the reset button.
Arc-fault protection guards the house against fire. ESA explains that an AFCI cuts the electricity to the outlet when it detects an electrical arc behind the walls. Adding outlets often brings the requirement with it: Technical Safety BC's upgrade bulletin specifies that a dwelling circuit with added receptacles must be AFCI protected. Each province applies its own edition of the electrical code, so the exact locations and exceptions are for your electrician to confirm.
Tamper-resistant and USB outlets: child safety and charging where you need it
Tamper-resistant receptacles, sometimes called child safety outlets, stop a hairpin or a key from reaching live contacts. ESA says they should be used throughout the home, and that the only time they aren't required is when the outlet is out of reach, such as behind a washing machine or another large appliance, or more than two metres above the floor. ESA recommends putting them everywhere anyway, which also retires the plastic plug covers that children soon learn to pull out.
USB receptacles are a convenience upgrade rather than a safety one. They fit a standard box, so they're easy to add while other outlets are going in, but charging output varies between models, and like any electrical product they should carry a recognized Canadian certification mark. Put them where phones and tablets actually charge: beside beds, at the end of a kitchen counter or near the entry.
Adding or moving an outlet: how an electrician extends a circuit through finished walls
- Load check: the electrician confirms the circuit you want to extend has capacity to spare, or runs a new circuit from the panel if it doesn't.
- Route: cable is fished from an existing outlet, from the basement or from the attic, with small access holes where framing gets in the way.
- Boxes: old-work boxes clamp into drywall or plaster, and outlets on exterior walls are sealed so they don't let cold air into the room.
- Moving an outlet: the old box either stays as an accessible junction under a blank cover or its cable is removed back to the source, since splices can't be buried in a wall.
- Placement: outlets go where furniture, counters and wall-mounted screens will actually be, with the code's spacing rules for kitchens and living areas in mind.
- Finishing: each new outlet is tested for polarity, grounding and ground-fault or arc-fault operation, and patching and painting around access holes are agreed in advance.
Outdoor outlets in a Canadian winter: extra-duty covers, block heaters and holiday lights
Outdoor receptacles work hardest when the weather is worst. ESA says an outlet exposed to rain or snow needs a cover plate marked Extra Duty, the in-use style that stays closed with a cord plugged in, and like every backyard receptacle it must be GFCI protected. Mount outdoor outlets above the level where snow piles up and away from the roof's drip line, on a circuit with room for block heaters and holiday lights running at the same time.
A GFCI that trips during wet or freezing weather is usually telling you moisture has reached a plug, a cord connection or the box. Resetting it once is reasonable, but if it keeps tripping, unplug everything and have the electrician check the outlet, the cover and the cords, rather than having the GFCI swapped for an unprotected receptacle.
Permits for new outlets: ESA notification, CMEQ licensing and BC installation permits
Adding even one receptacle extends a circuit, and that is regulated work. In Ontario, a Licensed Electrical Contractor files a notification with ESA before the work starts; in Quebec, the job goes to a contractor licensed through the CMEQ; in British Columbia, an electrical installation permit comes from Technical Safety BC or, in some cities, the local government. The new ground-fault, arc-fault and tamper-resistant devices are part of what an inspection looks at, so keep the paperwork with your house records once the work is accepted.
Outlet Installation: frequently asked questions
Do I need a permit to add an outlet?
In most of Canada, yes: adding a receptacle is declared electrical work. In Ontario, the Licensed Electrical Contractor files a notification with ESA; in British Columbia, the work needs an electrical installation permit; in Quebec, a contractor licensed through the CMEQ does the job.
Where do outlets need GFCI protection?
ESA says all outlets within 1.5 metres of a sink must be GFCI-protected, and all 120-volt, 15- and 20-amp receptacles in the backyard need Class A GFCI protection. Kitchens, bathrooms, laundry areas and the outside of the house are the usual places, and your electrician confirms the rest under your province's code.
What is a tamper-resistant outlet?
An outlet with internal shutters that open only when both prongs of a plug go in at the same time, so a child can't push an object into one slot. ESA recommends them throughout the home; the few exceptions are outlets out of reach, such as behind large appliances or more than two metres up.
Are USB outlets worth installing?
They are handy where you charge devices every day, such as a nightstand or the end of a kitchen counter, and they free up the regular outlets. Choose certified devices, and have them added while the electrician is already installing other outlets.
Why does my outdoor outlet keep tripping when it rains?
Usually water has reached a plug, a cord connection or the outlet box, and the GFCI is doing its job. Make sure the cover closes over plugged-in cords; if it still trips, have an electrician inspect the outlet and the cover instead of bypassing the protection.
Sources
- Electrical Safety Authority: Are you using the right outlet?
- Electrical Safety Authority: Make your outdoors even greater
- Technical Safety BC: Minimum requirements for upgrading electrical systems
- Electrical Safety Authority: Notifications and inspections
- CMEQ: A licence is mandatory
- Technical Safety BC: Electrical installation permits
- Natural Resources Canada: Electric vehicle charging, charger installation
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Reviewed by Zubair Afzal on September 10, 2026. How we write and check our guides
