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Front Doors

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The front door has two jobs that pull in opposite directions. From the street it should look welcoming and suit the style of the facade, yet it has to stay firmly shut against intruders, wind and blowing snow. It is also the door that guests, deliveries and the whole family use every day, so small faults such as a sticking latch, a draft at the sill or frost around the lock tend to show up there first.

A front door project can mean fitting a new slab into the existing frame, or installing a complete entry system: the door, frame, sill, weatherstripping and any sidelights or transom delivered as one factory-built unit. Door installers also change glass inserts, upgrade deadbolts, prepare doors for smart locks and refinish entry doors that have faded in the sun.

This page looks at front door styles and configurations, glass and privacy options, locks and hardware, the choice between a new slab and a whole entry system, the winter problems typical of Canadian entrances, and the colours and finishes that keep a front door looking good.

Front door styles: single doors, sidelights, transoms and double entry doors

The layout of a front entrance is set mostly by the width of the existing opening. Adding sidelights or switching to a double door usually means enlarging the opening and installing a longer header, which is structural work on a load-bearing wall and may need a municipal permit.

  • Single front door: one hinged slab in its frame, the most common set-up and the easiest to seal, lock and adjust.
  • Door with sidelights: one or two narrow fixed panels beside the door, glazed or solid, that brighten the vestibule and give a wider, more formal entrance.
  • Door with a transom: a fixed panel above the door, rectangular or arched, that brings in light high up where it doesn't cost you privacy.
  • Double entry doors: an active leaf used every day and an inactive leaf held by top and bottom bolts, suited to wide openings but with a long meeting edge that must seal well.
  • Panel design: raised panels, flat shaker-style panels or a smooth flush face, chosen to suit the house, from a brick plex to a bungalow or a contemporary build.

Front door glass inserts: light, privacy and safety glass

Glass gives a front door most of its character, and it is also the part you are most likely to want to change later. In most modern doors the glass is a sealed insert held by a frame that clamps both faces of the slab, so a damaged or dated insert can often be swapped without replacing the door, as long as the same size is still made.

The building code has a say too. Part 9 of the National Building Code, as reproduced in provincial codes such as British Columbia's, requires safety glass (tempered, laminated or wired) in an entrance door where the glass area exceeds 0.5 m² and comes to less than 900 mm from the bottom of the door, and in sidelights wider than 500 mm that could be mistaken for a door. Each province adopts the code with its own amendments, so ask the installer to confirm the glass meets the version that applies where you live.

  • Clear glass: the most daylight and the clearest view outside, with little privacy for the entrance hall.
  • Textured or frosted glass: patterned, sandblasted or acid-etched glass blurs shapes while letting light through, a good compromise for a door facing a busy sidewalk.
  • Decorative glass: bevelled pieces, coloured glass and metal caming sealed between two panes, for a traditional look without the drafts of old single-pane leaded glass.
  • Blinds between the panes: built into the sealed insert and moved with a slider, so you can switch between view and privacy with no dust or cords.

Front door locks compared: deadbolts, multipoint locks and smart locks

A front door usually carries two pieces of hardware: a handle or handleset whose latch keeps the door closed, and a deadbolt that actually locks it. Whatever you choose, its strength depends on the bolt reaching deep into a solidly anchored frame, so a new lock on a split or soft jamb gives little real protection.

  • Keyed deadbolt: a bolt thrown by a key outside and a thumb turn inside, the basic security lock; the quality of the cylinder and the length of the bolt matter more than the look.
  • Multipoint lock: one handle drives bolts or hooks at several points along the edge, pulling the slab evenly against the weatherstripping, which helps tall doors and doors that bow with temperature.
  • Smart lock: an electronic deadbolt opened by keypad, phone or fob that can log entries and issue temporary codes; check that the outdoor part is made for our winters and that there is a backup key or power option.
  • Hardware prep: new slabs come bored for a standard lockset, so tell the supplier before ordering if you want a multipoint lock, a mortise lock or a specific smart lock.

Replace the front door slab or the whole entry system?

An entry system is the complete unit as it leaves the factory: the slab already hung on its hinges in a frame, with the sill and threshold, the weatherstripping, any sidelights or transom and the bore for the lock. A slab-only replacement keeps your existing frame and sill and fits a new door into them. The first involves more work at the opening; the second depends entirely on the condition of what is already there.

  • A new slab can work when the frame is square, the jambs are solid and dry, and you mainly want a new look, new glass or a better core.
  • Fitting a slab is harder than it looks: it must be cut, bored and mortised to match the existing hinge and lock positions exactly, or it will bind or leak air.
  • A full system makes sense when the sill is rotten, cracked or sloping toward the house, since the sill is what keeps water out of the floor.
  • A full system is also the better choice when the frame has shifted, the door has been planed again and again, or daylight shows even with new weatherstripping.
  • Adding or removing sidelights, a transom or a second leaf always calls for a new entry system, since the frame changes size.

Front doors in winter: frost, ice at the sill and doors that stick

Winter exposes every weakness in a front entrance. The front door is opened constantly, often with snow on boots and wind blowing straight at it, and the vestibule behind it is frequently the coldest spot in the house.

  • Frost on the lock side or around the glass: warm indoor air is reaching a cold spot, often a gap along the latch edge or a glass insert whose seal is failing.
  • Ice on the sill: meltwater from boots and the step freezes on the threshold; a sill that slopes outward and a step that sits below it let water drain away instead of pooling.
  • A step or porch that heaves: frost can lift a concrete step or wooden porch until it presses on the sill or sends water back toward the door, a problem to fix at the step rather than the door.
  • A door that sticks or won't latch only in winter: the slab can bow slightly when one face is much colder than the other, and a multipoint lock or a strike adjustment usually brings it back in line.
  • A frozen lock: moisture in the cylinder has frozen; use a lock de-icer made for the purpose rather than heating the key, and keep the cylinder lubricated with a product meant for locks.

Front door colour and finish: paint, stain and upkeep

Colour is the simplest way to change the look of a facade, and most new doors can be ordered with a factory-applied finish in a wide range of colours or left primed for painting on site.

Dark colours absorb more of the sun's heat. On a door that faces south or west, or sits behind a storm door, that heat can make a steel door bow or damage the finish, and some manufacturers limit their warranty for dark colours in those spots. Read the finish guidelines before choosing a deep navy or black, and check with your municipality before changing a door's colour or style in a heritage sector.

  • Steel doors: repaint with an exterior paint suited to metal, and touch up any chip that reaches bare steel before rust creeps under the finish.
  • Fibreglass doors: can be painted, or stained when they have a wood-grain texture, then protected with a clear exterior topcoat that is renewed as it wears.
  • Wood doors: need a sheltered spot and regular refinishing on both faces and every edge, including the top and bottom, so moisture can't get in where no one looks.

Front Doors: frequently asked questions

Should a front door open inward or outward?

Most front doors in Canada open inward, so snow piled on the landing can't block them and the hinges stay inside. An outswing door can seal firmly under wind pressure and saves room in a small vestibule, but it needs security hinges and a landing that is always kept clear, so discuss it with the installer before ordering.

Can I put a smart lock on my existing front door?

Usually, if the door already has a standard deadbolt bore and the bolt lines up well with the strike. Check the door's thickness and the lock's fit before buying, make sure the door closes without being pushed, since a motorized bolt can't pull a sagging door shut, and keep a key or other backup in case the batteries run down.

Can I replace just the glass in my front door?

Often, yes. In most modern steel and fibreglass doors the glass is a sealed insert held by a screwed-on frame, so a fogged, cracked or dated insert can be replaced with one of the same size. Older doors and wood doors with glass set directly into the slab are harder to redo, and if the door itself is worn, replacing it may make more sense.

Do I need a permit to replace my front door?

Requirements vary by municipality. Enlarging the opening, changing the look of the facade or working in a heritage sector are the cases most likely to need a permit, so call your municipality's permit office before you order.

Sources

  1. National Building Code of Canada 2020 — National Research Council Canada
  2. British Columbia Building Code 2018, Division B, Section 9.6: Glass (Article 9.6.1.4) — Province of British Columbia

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of front door

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare door installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask door installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for front door

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Front door permits and local rules

Some front door work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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