Soundproofing
Soundproofing near you
Soundproofing fails for a reason that surprises most people: sound behaves like water, and it goes through the gap. A wall built beautifully and then penetrated by a power point, a light switch, a duct, a pipe and a gap under the door will let through far more noise than its materials suggest. That is why a soundproofing job is a sealing exercise first and a mass exercise second, and why adding a layer of dense material to a leaky wall so often disappoints.
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The second thing to understand is the difference between airborne noise and impact noise. Voices, television and traffic are airborne and are addressed with mass, separation and sealing. Footsteps overhead, a dropped object, a door slammed in the next apartment and a washing machine on a timber floor are impact noise travelling through the structure itself, and no amount of lining the underside of a ceiling will fix a problem that is arriving through the joists.
The regulatory position also differs sharply by building type. Apartments and other attached dwellings are subject to sound insulation requirements between units under the building code, and a builder or designer can tell you which apply to your building. A detached house has essentially no code requirement for sound between its own rooms, which means soundproofing a house is a contract rather than a compliance exercise. Whatever performance you want has to be written into the scope, because nothing in the background obliges anyone to deliver it.
The problems people call soundproofing, and what each one needs
- Voices and television between rooms in a house, which is airborne noise through a lightweight internal wall and responds to mass, absorption in the cavity and sealing.
- Traffic, aircraft or neighbourhood noise entering from outside, which usually arrives through the windows and doors rather than the walls.
- Footsteps and furniture from an apartment above, which is impact noise transmitted through the floor structure and is addressed at the floor rather than the ceiling.
- Noise between apartments through a party wall, where the code requirements and the strata rules both matter and the building's original construction sets the limits.
- Plumbing noise through walls, which is a fixing and isolation problem specific to the pipework rather than a lining problem.
- Reverberation inside a room, which is an acoustic comfort issue solved with absorption and which does nothing to stop noise passing through the wall.
- Noise from equipment such as an air conditioner or a pool pump, which is best addressed at the source and its mounting before anything is done to the building.
How a soundproofing job should be approached
A useful job starts by identifying the path the sound is actually taking, which is rarely the one people assume. Spend the first part of the budget finding out and the rest fixing it.
- Identify the source and the path: listen in both rooms, at different heights, with doors open and closed, and note whether the noise is airborne or arriving through the structure.
- Seal the obvious leaks first, including gaps under and around doors, unsealed penetrations, back-to-back power points and light switches, and the junction between the wall and the ceiling.
- Add mass where the path is airborne, since a heavier barrier passes less sound, and mass is the most reliable single lever available.
- Add absorption inside the cavity, which stops the air space between two linings acting as a drum.
- Decouple where the budget allows, because a wall whose two faces are not rigidly connected performs far better than one where they are.
- Treat the flanking paths, since sound travels around a wall through the floor, the ceiling and continuous linings just as readily as it travels through it.
- Deal with doors and windows last but properly, because they are usually the weakest element and no amount of wall work compensates for them.
What actually goes into a soundproofed wall or ceiling
- Acoustic-grade insulation in the cavity, chosen for its acoustic properties rather than assumed to be interchangeable with thermal batts.
- Additional or heavier plasterboard layers, with the sheet joints offset between layers rather than aligned.
- Resilient mounting systems that separate the lining from the frame, which is where most of the real improvement comes from in a retrofit.
- Acoustic sealant at every perimeter and penetration, applied continuously rather than in dabs, since a hairline gap is a sound path.
- Acoustic-rated back boxes or offset positions for power points and switches, because a pair of back-to-back outlets is a hole through the wall.
- Solid-core doors with proper seals and a drop seal at the threshold, which is often the single most effective change in a house.
- Isolation at the floor for impact noise, including underlays and floating systems, which is where footfall is dealt with.
Why soundproofing work underperforms
- The wall was treated but the door was not, so the assembly performs at the level of its weakest element.
- Penetrations were left unsealed after the lining went up, most often by a later electrical or plumbing trade.
- The lining was screwed rigidly back to the same studs, so vibration passes straight through the connection regardless of how much mass was added.
- Flanking paths through the ceiling, the floor or a continuous wall lining were never considered, so the sound simply goes around the treated element.
- Absorbent panels were added inside the room, which improves how the room sounds to its occupants and does nothing to stop sound leaving it.
- Impact noise was treated at the ceiling below rather than at the floor above, which is the most common wasted spend in apartment soundproofing.
- The expectation was silence, which no residential construction delivers, rather than a specified and measurable reduction.
Apartments, strata and the noise rules that apply outside the building
In an apartment, three separate things govern what you can do. The building code sets sound insulation requirements between dwellings, and what applies to your building depends on when it was built and what class it is, so ask a designer or building professional rather than assuming. The owners corporation or body corporate has its own by-laws, which commonly regulate floor coverings precisely because hard floors transmit impact noise to the apartment below, and those by-laws can require approval before you change a floor.
Outside the building, each state and territory has its own residential noise rules administered through environment protection and local government legislation, with time restrictions for things like power tools, musical instruments, air conditioners and pool pumps. They differ between states, and they are the relevant framework when the problem is a neighbour rather than your own building. Check your own state's rules and your council's, because a noise complaint about an air conditioner is answered differently in each jurisdiction.
The practical implication for a renovation is to establish the constraints before design rather than after. A floating floor that satisfies your acoustic consultant but breaches a by-law about floor coverings is a problem you will hear about from downstairs, and an air conditioner sited where it is convenient may be sited where it breaches a state noise rule.
Where the money goes furthest
In a detached house, sealing and doors usually give the largest improvement for the smallest spend. Replacing a hollow-core bedroom door with a solid one and sealing the frame and threshold transforms a room that people thought needed a rebuilt wall. Sealing the penetrations in an existing wall costs very little and removes the paths that were defeating the construction.
For outside noise, the windows are almost always the weak point, and improving them does more than anything done to the wall. That may mean better seals, heavier glass, a secondary internal window or simply fixing a sash that no longer closes properly, and the right answer depends on the frequency of the noise as much as on the level.
For apartments with impact noise from above, honesty is important: the effective treatment is at the floor above, which is usually somebody else's property, and work done to your own ceiling produces limited improvement for considerable cost. That conversation belongs with the owners corporation before it becomes a construction project, and an independent acoustic assessment is often the thing that makes it possible.
What moves a soundproofing quote, and how LokalMatch fits in
The drivers are how much of the room has to be opened up, whether the existing lining comes off, whether decoupling is included or just extra mass, how many penetrations and services have to be dealt with, whether doors and windows are in scope, and whether an acoustic assessment or any performance target forms part of the contract. A job priced as extra sheets on the existing frame is a different product from one that decouples and seals, and the two will not perform alike.
LokalMatch is where the job starts, not where it ends. Describe the noise, which room it comes from and which room it reaches, whether it is voices, traffic or footsteps, the construction of the wall or floor and your postcode, and building, carpentry and insulation businesses covering your area contact you directly; those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the work, does not set or quote prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so write the performance you expect into the scope, because in a detached house nothing else will oblige anyone to deliver it.
Soundproofing: frequently asked questions
Will adding insulation to a wall soundproof it?
It helps, but on its own it is usually the smallest part of the answer. Insulation in the cavity stops the air space acting like a drum, but sound still passes through the linings and, more importantly, through every gap and penetration in them. Sealing the leaks, adding mass and decoupling the two faces of the wall all do more. Insulation alone in an otherwise unchanged wall rarely produces the improvement people expect.
Why can I still hear my neighbours upstairs after lining my ceiling?
Because footsteps are impact noise travelling through the floor structure, not airborne noise passing through the ceiling. Effective treatment is at the floor above, with isolation under the floor covering, which usually means the work is in somebody else's apartment. Lining the ceiling below can help a little with airborne noise but does relatively little for footfall, which is why this is the most common disappointment in apartment soundproofing.
Do acoustic foam panels on the wall stop noise getting through?
No. Absorbent panels change how a room sounds to the people in it by reducing reverberation, which is useful in a home studio or a room with hard surfaces. They add almost no mass and do not seal anything, so they have very little effect on how much sound passes through the wall to the next room. The two purposes get confused constantly, so be clear which one you are buying.
What is the cheapest thing that actually works?
In most houses, the door and the seals around it. Replacing a hollow-core door with a solid one, sealing the frame and fitting a drop seal at the threshold closes the largest opening in the assembly and often changes the room noticeably. After that, sealing penetrations such as back-to-back power points, gaps at the wall and ceiling junction and unfilled service holes costs very little and removes the paths that were defeating everything else.
Does the building code require soundproofing between rooms in my house?
Between the rooms of a single detached dwelling, essentially no, which is why soundproofing a house is a contract rather than a compliance exercise: if you want a performance level, it has to be written into the scope. Between separate dwellings such as apartments and attached homes, sound insulation requirements do apply, and what applies to your building depends on its class and when it was built. Ask your designer or building surveyor which provisions apply to your specific building.
Can I soundproof against a neighbour's air conditioner?
You can improve your windows and seals, but the more effective route is usually the source and the rules that govern it. Each Australian state and territory has its own residential noise framework with time restrictions covering equipment such as air conditioners and pool pumps, administered through environment protection and local government legislation, and in strata there may be by-laws as well. Check your state's rules and your council's before committing to construction work on your own building.
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of soundproofing
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Area to insulate: attic, walls, basement or crawl space
- Type of insulation
- Removal of old insulation
- Air sealing work
- Access to the space
- Ventilation changes
How to compare soundproofing contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who talks about air sealing and ventilation, not only adding more insulation.
- Ask them to check the attic or walls for moisture, mould, old wiring or insulation that may contain asbestos before starting.
- Get a written quote that states the type of insulation, the areas covered and the target insulation level.
- For spray foam, ask about their training, curing time and when it's safe to be back in the home.
- Consider an energy audit before and after the work to see where heat is being lost.
Questions to ask soundproofing contractors before you hire
- What type of insulation do you recommend for this area, and why?
- Will you seal air leaks before insulating?
- How will you keep the attic properly ventilated?
- What will you do if you find old insulation that may contain asbestos, mould or old wiring?
- For spray foam, how long do we need to stay out of the house?
- Does this work need a permit or an inspection?
When to call a pro for soundproofing
- Rooms that stay cold or drafty, or ice dams forming on the roof
- Frost or condensation in the attic in winter
- Loose, pebble-like insulation in the attic: leave it undisturbed and have it assessed by a qualified professional.
Soundproofing permits and local rules
Some soundproofing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
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