Air Sealing
Air Sealing near you
Air sealing is the work of closing the uncontrolled gaps through which outside air enters a building and conditioned air escapes. In an Australian house those gaps are worth taking seriously, because the older stock in particular was never built to be airtight and because an air leak carries heat, moisture, dust, smoke and insects with it. Closing them is usually cheaper than adding insulation and often does more for comfort.
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The distinctive part of the Australian job is knowing what not to seal. This housing stock is full of openings that are doing a job: weep holes in brick veneer that let the cavity drain and dry, subfloor vents that keep the space under a suspended timber floor from becoming damp, roof space ventilation that manages heat and moisture, and the combustion air and flue arrangements of any gas or solid fuel appliance. Sealing those causes damage that takes years to become visible.
The other half of the rule is that a tighter house needs deliberate ventilation. Energy Safe Victoria explains that lowering the air pressure in a room can restrict or even reverse the airflow through a flue, and that if the supply of fresh air to the burner is interrupted the flame will produce high levels of carbon monoxide. A sealing job in a house with an open-flued appliance is therefore not just an energy project; it is a project the gasfitter needs to know about.
Where an Australian house actually leaks
- Downlight penetrations in the ceiling, which in a house with many of them add up to a substantial opening into the roof space.
- Exhaust fans without an effective damper, which leave a direct path between the bathroom or laundry and the roof space whenever they are off.
- The ceiling manhole, which is usually a loose sheet of plasterboard sitting in a frame and is one of the largest single leaks in a typical house.
- Gaps at skirtings, architraves and cornices, and around wall and ceiling junctions in older construction.
- Around and under external doors, and at window sashes whose seals have hardened or whose hardware no longer pulls them closed.
- Service penetrations where pipes, cables, ducts and the kitchen and laundry plumbing pass through walls and floors.
- Wall vents and unused chimneys and fireplace openings, which were deliberate once and are frequently redundant now.
- Evaporative cooler outlets in winter, which sit open in the ceiling of a great many Australian houses and are a large hole for half the year.
The openings that must be left alone
This is the section that distinguishes a competent Australian air sealing job from a damaging one, and it is the part that a guide written for another country gets wrong.
- Weep holes in brick veneer, which let the cavity drain and dry and which must never be filled, blocked by garden beds or covered by paving.
- Subfloor vents under a suspended timber floor, which are how that space stays dry and which are already too often blocked by decks, paving and garden beds.
- Roof space ventilation, including eave vents and ridge or gable ventilators, which manage heat and moisture in the space above the ceiling.
- Combustion air openings and any purpose-provided ventilation associated with a gas or solid fuel appliance.
- Flues, flue terminals and their surrounds, which are not a draught to be stopped.
- Rangehood, bathroom and laundry discharge terminals outside, which need to remain free to discharge.
- Any vent whose purpose nobody on site can explain, which should be left until somebody can.
How a sealing job should be carried out
- A walk-through that identifies the leaks and, just as importantly, identifies the deliberate openings so they are recorded before anyone starts.
- A check of what combustion appliances the house has and how they get their air, before any sealing work is planned.
- The large, cheap leaks first: the manhole, the exhaust fan dampers, the external door seals, the redundant wall vents and the unused fireplace.
- Penetrations sealed with materials suited to the location, including fire and clearance requirements where services pass through, rather than expanding foam applied indiscriminately.
- Downlight penetrations addressed in a way a licensed electrician agrees with, since the clearance requirements around fittings are electrical rules rather than sealing preferences.
- Window and door seals renewed and hardware adjusted so that the closing mechanism actually pulls the sash or leaf onto the seal.
- Ventilation reviewed at the end, so that the house that has just been tightened has a deliberate way of getting fresh air in and moisture out.
- A record of what was sealed and what was deliberately left open, which protects the next tradesperson from undoing the reasoning.
What goes wrong when a house is sealed carelessly
- Condensation appearing on windows, in wardrobes and on external wall surfaces, because the moisture the household generates no longer has a way out.
- Mould in rooms that never had it, particularly on the shaded side of the house and in spaces that are closed up during the day.
- A flued appliance beginning to spill, because the house can no longer supply the air the flue needs to work.
- Subfloor damp and timber decay after subfloor vents were blocked or built over.
- Water staining at the base of brick veneer walls where weep holes were filled and the cavity can no longer drain.
- A roof space running hotter and damper after its ventilation was restricted.
- Expanding foam used around a service penetration where a fire or clearance requirement applied, creating a compliance problem.
- Bathroom moisture staying in the bathroom because the fan was sealed but nothing was done about where it discharges.
Sealing a house that has a flued appliance in it
Energy Safe Victoria describes how an open-flued space heater draws air from the room to feed the fire and directs combustion products outside via a flue, and how factors such as wind or the use of appliances including bathroom exhaust fans can lower the air pressure inside the room and create a negative pressure environment in which airflow through the flue may become restricted or in some cases even reversed. It adds that if the supply of fresh air to the burner is interrupted, the flame will produce high levels of carbon monoxide.
Air sealing pushes a house in exactly that direction. Every gap closed reduces the building's ability to make up the air that a flue, a rangehood or an exhaust fan is removing, and a house that was marginal before can become one that spills afterwards. The correct response is not to leave the house leaky but to treat the two as one project: seal deliberately, provide ventilation deliberately, and have the gas appliances tested afterwards.
That testing belongs with a licensed gasfitter. Energy Safe Victoria states that gasfitters are required to test heaters during installation and servicing to ensure they do not spill combustion products and that any exhaust fans do not affect the heater, and that carbon monoxide testing is part of a comprehensive service. Tell the gasfitter that the house has been sealed, because it changes the conditions the test needs to be carried out in.
When to do it, and what it buys in each season
Autumn is the natural time in the southern states, because the benefit shows up immediately in the heating season and because the work is comfortable to do. Roof space work in particular should be booked outside summer: an Australian roof space under a dark roof in full sun is a genuinely hazardous place to spend an afternoon, and nobody does careful sealing in those conditions.
The benefit is not only a winter one, which is a point often lost. In summer, uncontrolled air movement brings hot outside air and roof space heat into the house and undoes the work the air conditioner is doing, so a sealed house holds its cool for less energy. During a smoke episode, a sealed house is the difference between closing up and actually keeping the smoke out, and it is what makes portable filtration effective. In pollen season the same applies.
The one seasonal caution is to seal and ventilate in the same project rather than in different years. A house sealed in autumn with no thought given to moisture will show condensation by mid-winter, and the household will conclude, wrongly, that the sealing was a mistake.
What moves an air sealing quote, and how LokalMatch fits in
Air sealing is unusual in that the cheapest items often deliver the most. Sealing a manhole, fitting proper door seals and dealing with redundant vents costs very little. Costs rise with the number of downlights and penetrations to be addressed, whether an electrician is needed for the ceiling fittings, whether window hardware and seals are being renewed, whether any testing is included, and whether ventilation work is part of the same scope, which it should be.
LokalMatch is where the job starts, not where it ends. Describe the house, its age and construction, the draughts you notice and where, any gas appliances and your postcode, and building, insulation, ventilation and gasfitting businesses covering your area contact you directly; those businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the work, does not set or quote prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so ask what will be deliberately left open and why, and have gas appliances tested after the work.
Air Sealing: frequently asked questions
Can I seal my house too much?
You can seal it without ventilating it, which produces the same result. A house generates moisture continuously from showering, cooking, drying clothes and breathing, and if there is no deliberate way for that moisture to leave, it condenses on the coldest surfaces and mould follows. The answer is not to leave gaps at random but to pair sealing with deliberate ventilation: working extraction in wet areas discharging outside, and a habit of airing the house when conditions allow.
Should I seal the weep holes in my brick wall?
No, never. Weep holes let water that gets into the cavity drain out and let the cavity dry. Filling them, or letting a garden bed, paving or a new deck cover them, traps water in the wall and causes damage that shows up years later as damp and deterioration at the base of the wall. The same applies to subfloor vents under a suspended timber floor. If an operator offers to seal either, that is a reason to stop and get another opinion.
Is air sealing worth more than adding insulation?
In many older Australian houses the first stage of sealing gives more comfort per dollar than the equivalent spent on insulation, because uncontrolled air movement carries heat directly and because the cheap items are very cheap. That is not an argument against insulation, which does a different job and is usually the larger long-term gain. The sensible order is to seal the obvious leaks, insulate properly, and make sure ventilation is deliberate rather than accidental.
Do I need to tell my gasfitter that the house has been sealed?
Yes, and it matters. Energy Safe Victoria explains that lowering the air pressure in a room can restrict or reverse airflow through a flue, and that an interrupted supply of fresh air to the burner causes the flame to produce high levels of carbon monoxide. Gasfitters are required to test heaters during installation and servicing to ensure they do not spill combustion products and that exhaust fans do not affect the heater. Sealing changes the conditions that test needs to be done under.
What is the single biggest leak in a typical Australian house?
Often the ceiling manhole, which in most houses is an unsealed sheet sitting loosely in a frame, connecting the house directly to the roof space. After that, downlight penetrations in quantity, exhaust fans with no effective damper, and an evaporative cooler outlet left open through winter. All four are inexpensive to address and all four sit in the ceiling, which is where the largest pressure difference is.
Does sealing help with bushfire smoke?
Considerably. Smoke enters a house through the same paths air does, so a house that has been sealed keeps more of it out and holds cleaner air longer once it is closed up. It also makes portable filtration far more effective, because the unit is treating a volume that is not being continuously resupplied with smoky air. Closing the house early and having fewer gaps to close is the practical combination.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of air sealing
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Area to insulate: attic, walls, basement or crawl space
- Type of insulation
- Removal of old insulation
- Air sealing work
- Access to the space
- Ventilation changes
How to compare insulation contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who talks about air sealing and ventilation, not only adding more insulation.
- Ask them to check the attic or walls for moisture, mould, old wiring or insulation that may contain asbestos before starting.
- Get a written quote that states the type of insulation, the areas covered and the target insulation level.
- For spray foam, ask about their training, curing time and when it's safe to be back in the home.
- Consider an energy audit before and after the work to see where heat is being lost.
Questions to ask insulation contractors before you hire
- What type of insulation do you recommend for this area, and why?
- Will you seal air leaks before insulating?
- How will you keep the attic properly ventilated?
- What will you do if you find old insulation that may contain asbestos, mould or old wiring?
- For spray foam, how long do we need to stay out of the house?
- Does this work need a permit or an inspection?
When to call a pro for air sealing
- Rooms that stay cold or drafty, or ice dams forming on the roof
- Frost or condensation in the attic in winter
- Loose, pebble-like insulation in the attic: leave it undisturbed and have it assessed by a qualified professional.
Air sealing permits and local rules
Some air sealing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
Guides about air sealing
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Insulation Contractors guide
Insulation is the cheapest way to make an Australian house comfortable, and in much of the country its main job is keeping summer heat out rather than keeping winter heat in.
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Ceiling Insulation guide
Australians call it the roof space or the ceiling cavity rather than the attic, and in most Australian houses it is not a room at all: it is a triangular void above a plasterboard ceiling, crossed by trusses, cables,…
Read guide - ✦
Basement Insulation guide
Australia does not build basements, and any guide that pretends otherwise is describing somebody else's housing stock.
Read guide
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