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Energy-Efficient Windows

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Windows are where an Australian house gains and loses most of its unwanted heat, and since the 2022 edition of the National Construction Code the way that is judged has changed. Part H6 of Volume Two no longer asks only whether each element is good enough on its own. It compares the building's heating and cooling loads against a reference building, and it adds a whole-of-home requirement: the energy value of the building's domestic services must not exceed 70 per cent of the energy value of a specified baseline, expressed in terms of three-star heat pumps for heating and cooling, a five-star instantaneous gas water heater and four watts per square metre of lighting.

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How the comparison is applied depends on where you are. In climate zone 1 the cooling load must not exceed that of the reference building; in climate zone 8 it is the heating load; in climate zones 2 to 7 both must be satisfied. External glazing and shading are dealt with through the ABCB Housing Provisions rather than in Part H6 itself. Part H6 of NCC 2022 applied from 1 October 2023, following a transitional period from 1 May 2023, and New South Wales deletes one of its verification methods.

The practical effect is that a window is judged by what it does to the house, not by a number on its own label. A glazing choice that is excellent in Hobart can be the wrong answer in Darwin, and shading can do more for a west-facing room than upgrading the glass in it.

Keeping heat out against keeping heat in

Most Australian glazing decisions come down to which direction the heat is travelling for most of the year. In the tropical north the whole problem is solar heat coming in, so the priority is rejecting radiation: shading first, then glazing that admits less solar energy, with insulation against conducted heat a secondary concern.

In the cool temperate south and the highlands the problem reverses for much of the year. Heat leaving through the glass on a winter night is the dominant loss, and the priority becomes reducing conduction, which is what double glazing and thermally improved frames do. Winter sun entering a north-facing window is then useful rather than unwanted, which is why blanket solar rejection can make a southern house worse.

Part H6's structure reflects this directly: cooling load alone in climate zone 1, heating load alone in climate zone 8, and both in the zones between. A supplier who recommends the same specification for every elevation and every state is not designing, and the reference-building comparison is unforgiving of that.

Frames and glass, and what each contributes

  • Aluminium frames, the Australian default, which are strong and slim and conduct heat readily unless thermally broken.
  • Thermally broken aluminium, which inserts a non-conductive barrier through the frame and substantially changes its contribution to conduction.
  • Timber frames, naturally low in conduction, which need a maintenance regime in Australian ultraviolet and in coastal exposure.
  • Composite and uPVC frames, common in cool-climate markets and increasingly used in the southern states.
  • Double glazing, two panes with a sealed cavity, which is aimed primarily at conducted heat rather than at solar gain.
  • Low-emissivity coatings, which change how much radiant heat the glass passes, and which can be specified to favour rejecting solar heat or retaining internal heat.
  • Tinted and spectrally selective glass, which reduces solar gain and, depending on the product, does so with less loss of visible light than a simple tint.
  • Shading devices outside the glass, which the Housing Provisions treat as part of the building envelope alongside the glazing itself.

How an energy-efficient window specification is arrived at

  • Establish the climate zone for the address, because it determines whether heating load, cooling load or both are being tested.
  • Work out the orientation of every glazed elevation, since north, west and east glass behave completely differently through an Australian day.
  • Decide the shading strategy before the glass, because eaves, awnings and external screens change what the glazing has to do.
  • Have the assessment done with house energy rating software rather than by adding up product labels, since Part H6 compares the building against a reference building.
  • Let the assessment drive the glazing specification elevation by elevation, rather than buying one product for the whole house.
  • Check that the whole-of-home requirement is satisfied, which brings the heating, cooling, water heating and lighting services into the same calculation.
  • Confirm the frame specification as well as the glass, because a high-performing unit in a highly conductive frame does not deliver what the glass promises.

Part H6 and where glazing is dealt with

Part H6 of NCC 2022 Volume Two sets the energy efficiency requirements for Class 1 buildings. Its performance comparison is expressed against a reference building: in climate zone 1 the cooling load must not exceed the reference building's, in climate zone 8 the heating load must not, and in climate zones 2 to 7 neither may. Alongside that sits the whole-of-home requirement that the energy value of the building's domestic services must not exceed 70 per cent of the energy value of the stated baseline.

Part H6 does not itself carry numeric glazing performance values. External glazing and shading are dealt with through the ABCB Housing Provisions, which is where the envelope requirements live. Glazing as a product is handled separately again, in Section 8 of the Housing Provisions, which is divided into scope, windows and external glazed doors, glass, and glazing human impact.

State variation matters here as much as anywhere in the Code. New South Wales deletes one of Part H6's verification methods, and Tasmania and the Northern Territory carry their own Part H6 provisions. Part H6 of NCC 2022 applied from 1 October 2023 after a transitional period that began on 1 May 2023.

Upgrading the glass or upgrading the house

Replacing windows is rarely the cheapest first move in an existing Australian house. External shading on the elevations that take the summer sun, insulation in the roof, and sealing the obvious air paths usually deliver more comfort per dollar spent than new glazing does, and they do not require the wall to be opened.

Replacement earns its place when the existing windows are failing anyway, when a room is being renovated and the wall is open, or when the specific problem is conducted heat loss on winter nights in a cool zone, which shading cannot address. Secondary glazing, a second pane fitted inside the existing window, is a middle path worth considering in heritage-controlled houses where the original windows cannot be changed.

The honest test is to ask what the windows are being blamed for. A west-facing room that overheats in February has a solar problem, and glass alone is a partial answer. A southern living room that is cold at nine at night in July has a conduction problem, and that is what better glazing is for.

Keeping high-performance windows performing

  • Keep weep holes and drainage slots clear, since a double-glazed unit sitting in water is on its way to a failed seal.
  • Check the perimeter sealant and the internal seals periodically, because the energy benefit assumes the junction is still sealed.
  • Watch for fogging or a haze between the panes of a double-glazed unit, which means the seal has failed and the unit, not the glass, needs replacing.
  • Clean tracks and drainage channels on sliding units, where grit holds water against the frame.
  • Avoid abrasive cleaners and scrapers on coated glass, since low-emissivity and spectrally selective coatings can be damaged.
  • Maintain the external shading as diligently as the glass, because a failed awning or a stretched external blind quietly removes the larger part of the benefit.
  • Keep the assessment documentation with the house records, which is what a future buyer, valuer or renovator will want to see.

Energy-Efficient Windows: frequently asked questions

What does the National Construction Code require of windows in a new house?

Part H6 of NCC 2022 Volume Two requires the building's loads to be compared with those of a reference building: cooling load in climate zone 1, heating load in climate zone 8, and both in climate zones 2 to 7. It also sets a whole-of-home requirement that the energy value of the building's domestic services must not exceed 70 per cent of a stated baseline. Part H6 itself does not carry numeric glazing values; external glazing and shading are dealt with in the ABCB Housing Provisions. Part H6 applied from 1 October 2023, and New South Wales, Tasmania and the Northern Territory each vary it.

Is double glazing worth it in Australia?

It depends on the climate zone and the direction the heat is travelling. Double glazing targets conducted heat, so it does most for a cool-temperate or highland house losing warmth through the glass on winter nights. In the tropical north the dominant problem is solar radiation entering, and shading plus a glazing specification that rejects solar heat will usually do more than adding a second pane. Because Part H6 compares the whole building against a reference building, the useful answer comes from the energy assessment for your address rather than from a rule of thumb.

Will new windows alone fix a hot west-facing room?

Partly, and usually less than expected. Once sunlight has passed through the glass most of its energy is already in the room, so the most effective intervention is external: an awning, an external blind, a shutter or a screen that stops the sun before it reaches the window. Improved glazing reduces what gets through and is worth doing when the window is being replaced anyway, but on a west elevation in an Australian summer, shading is the larger lever. The Housing Provisions treat glazing and shading together as part of the building envelope for exactly this reason.

Do energy requirements differ between the states?

Yes, in two ways. First, the National Construction Code is a model document that only becomes law when a state or territory adopts it, and the adoption date and any variations are theirs to set. New South Wales deletes one of Part H6's verification methods, and Tasmania and the Northern Territory carry their own Part H6 provisions. Second, the requirement is climate-zone dependent within the Code itself, so the same house in the same state can face a different test depending on where in that state it is built.

What happens if the seal in a double-glazed unit fails?

The cavity between the panes loses its integrity, moisture gets in, and the unit fogs or develops a permanent haze that cannot be cleaned because it is on the inside surfaces. At that point the insulating performance the unit was specified for is gone. The repair is replacement of the sealed unit rather than of the whole window, provided the frame is sound. The most common cause in Australian installations is a unit standing in water because the frame's drainage has been blocked, which is why keeping weep holes clear matters more than it sounds.

Sources

  1. NCC 2022 Volume Two, Part H6 Energy efficiency
  2. ABCB Housing Provisions, Section 8 Glazing
  3. ABCB Housing Provisions, Part 13.4 Building sealing

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of energy-efficient window

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Number, size and style of windows or doors
  • Frame material and glass options
  • Full-frame replacement or insert
  • Repairs to rotted framing or sills
  • Interior and exterior trim and capping
  • Access, including upper floors

How to compare window installers before you hire

  • Look for an installer who measures on site and explains how the new window or door will be sealed and flashed.
  • Ask whether the quote is for a full-frame replacement or an insert, and why they recommend it.
  • Compare quotes on the same product type, glass options, installation method and interior and exterior trim.
  • Ask who handles warranty issues: the installer, the manufacturer or both.
  • For garage doors, choose a technician trained on springs and openers, since that work can be dangerous.

Questions to ask window installers before you hire

  • Will you replace the full frame or install an insert, and what's the difference for my home?
  • How will you insulate and seal around the new units?
  • Is interior and exterior trim included in the price?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your installation warranty cover?
  • How long will it take for the products to arrive once I order?
  • Will your own crew do the installation?

When to call a pro for energy-efficient window

  • Drafts, condensation or fog between the panes
  • Windows or doors that stick, won't lock or let water in
  • A garage door that's off track or has a broken spring: don't try to force it, and call a garage door technician.

Energy-efficient window permits and local rules

Some energy-efficient window work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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