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Landscape Lighting

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Landscape lighting is the system in the ground rather than on the building: a transformer on an exterior wall, low-voltage cable buried through beds and lawn, and fixtures that light a path, wash a tree trunk, graze a stone wall or pick out a specimen plant from below. Because most of it runs at low voltage, it occupies a genuinely different regulatory lane from the rest of a house's wiring, and that surprises people who assume every outdoor light needs an electrician and a permit.

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This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
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Washington's rules are a clear example of how the line is drawn. Low-voltage circuits for underground landscape lighting are treated as exempt from the state's licensing and permitting requirements, on the reasoning that the electrical failure of these systems does not inherently or functionally compromise safety to life or property, but the exemption comes with conditions: the power must be derived from a listed Class 2 power supply, the installation and termination of the line voltage equipment and conductors supplying the system must be done by appropriately licensed and certified electrical contractors and electricians, and the exemption does not extend to anything in the scope of the code article covering swimming pools, fountains and similar installations.

That is the whole shape of the job. Somebody licensed puts a protected line-voltage receptacle or connection where the transformer goes; the low-voltage work downstream is a landscape trade. On LokalMatch you describe the yard once and contractors covering your area get in touch; pros pay for the requests they take, homeowners pay nothing, and LokalMatch does not install lighting, set prices or vet, rank or recommend anyone.

Lighting techniques a landscape plan is actually made of

Landscape lighting is bought by technique, not by fixture. Asking for a specific effect in each area is what stops a plan turning into a row of identical path lights down a driveway.

  • Path lighting: short fixtures that put light on the walking surface, spaced to reveal edges and changes in level rather than to form a runway.
  • Uplighting and well lights: fixtures at or below grade aimed up a trunk or a wall, which is the technique most likely to spill light into the sky if it is not aimed and shielded.
  • Downlighting from within a tree, sometimes called moonlighting, which throws branch shadows onto the ground and keeps the source out of view.
  • Grazing: a fixture set close to a stone, brick or board surface to rake across it and reveal texture.
  • Step, wall and hardscape lights built into risers, seat walls and caps, which do the safety work on a sloped site.
  • Silhouetting and shadowing, where a plant is lit from behind or in front to project it onto a wall.
  • Transformer, cable and connectors: unglamorous, buried, and responsible for nearly every failure the system will ever have.
  • Controls: a photocell, astronomical timer or app-based controller that decides when the system runs and, in practice, what it costs to run.

Who is allowed to install it, and where the licensed work stops

Landscape lighting sits on a boundary between two trades, and the boundary is drawn by state law rather than by custom. California licenses a C-27 Landscaping Contractor as one who constructs, maintains, repairs, installs or subcontracts the development of landscape systems and facilities for public and private gardens and other areas which are designed to aesthetically, architecturally, horticulturally or functionally improve the grounds within or surrounding a structure or a tract or plot of land, and who prepares and grades plots and areas of land for the installation of any architectural, horticultural and decorative treatment or arrangement. Electrical contracting is a separate classification with its own scope, and the practical question on any given job is which side of the line the work falls on.

Washington answers the same question from the other direction and is unusually explicit. Its rules list low-voltage circuits for underground landscape sprinkler systems, landscape lighting and antennas for wireless animal containment fences among the systems and circuits considered exempt from licensing and permitting requirements, because their electrical failure does not inherently or functionally compromise safety to life or property. The conditions attached are the important part: the power supplying the installation must be derived from a listed Class 2 power supply; the installation and termination of line voltage equipment and conductors supplying these systems must be performed by appropriately licensed and certified electrical contractors and electricians; the conductors must not pass through fire-rated walls, ceilings or floors in other than residential units; and conductors or luminaires must not be installed in installations covered by the code article for swimming pools, fountains and similar installations.

So the split on a typical job is clean. Getting protected power to the transformer location is licensed electrical work. Everything downstream of a listed Class 2 supply, in the ground, is landscape work. Anything at a pool, a pond with a pump or a fountain is a different problem entirely and belongs to an electrician. Your own state may draw this differently, so ask both trades what they are licensed to do at your address before anyone digs.

Call 811 before the first trench, even for a shallow one

Landscape lighting means trenching across a yard that also contains gas service, electrical service, water, cable, telecommunications and often an irrigation main. Locate requirements attach to excavation, not to a depth, and they are set by state law. Pennsylvania's Public Utility Commission states that homeowners and contractors must call 8-1-1 at least three business days before starting any digging or excavation project, as required by law, so that facility owners can be notified of the intent to dig and mark their buried lines.

Notice periods differ from state to state, so the number to use is the one your own state sets rather than a figure from a neighbouring one. What does not differ is the sequence: the ticket is filed, the locators come out, the marks appear on the ground, and only then does a trencher or a spade go in. Ask to see confirmation that the ticket was filed and walk the marks with the crew before work starts, particularly along the route between the meter and the house, which is where the services converge.

Two other cautions are specific to this work. Existing irrigation lateral lines are rarely on any locate map and are cut constantly during lighting installs, so agree in advance who repairs them. And the cable route matters after the job: a run laid along the front of a bed will be found by an edger within two seasons, while one laid behind the plants and mapped on a drawing will not.

How a low-voltage system is designed and installed

  • A night-time walk of the property first, with a test fixture on a cord, to agree what gets lit and from where before anything is priced.
  • A load calculation: total fixture wattage against transformer capacity, with headroom left for the fixtures you will want to add later.
  • Voltage drop planning, using hub, loop or split runs rather than one long daisy chain, so the far fixture is not visibly dimmer than the first.
  • A protected line-voltage supply at the transformer location, installed by whoever is licensed to do that work in your state.
  • Trenching along a mapped route after the locate marks are down, at a depth agreed in writing and away from where spades and edgers go.
  • Connections made with proper waterproof connectors rather than twisted and taped, since the connection is where every low-voltage system eventually fails.
  • Aiming and shielding after dark, with glare checked from the street, the sidewalk and the neighbour's windows rather than only from the house.
  • An as-built drawing showing cable routes, junctions and fixture positions, handed over with the controller instructions.

Aiming, color and keeping the light in your own yard

Landscape lighting is the category most likely to throw light where nobody wants it, because so much of it points up. The National Park Service's six-step guidance for homeowners is the most practical brief available and costs nothing to follow: light only if needed; light only when needed, using motion sensors or timers; light only where needed, shielding fixtures and directing them down; use warm-white or amber light and avoid blue-white light; use the minimum amount of light needed; and use energy-efficient lights. On an uplight, shielding and aim are the whole game, since a fixture that misses the trunk is lighting the sky and a neighbour's bedroom instead.

Local ordinances reach landscape lighting too, and they are usually written in terms of direction and output rather than intent. Boulder, Colorado requires outdoor light bulbs to be within a fixture that aims light downward and obscures view of the bulb by a material that blocks or diffuses the light, and states that no light may project upward, with spot and flood lights permitted only when aimed downward, not exceeding 1200 lumens, on a motion sensor and timer, and aimed so that they do not shine across property lines. A design built around uplighting in a city with a rule like that needs to be reconciled with the ordinance at the drawing stage rather than at the complaint stage.

Wildlife and neighbours aside, restraint tends to produce a better result anyway. A garden lit from a few careful positions with warm light reads as depth; the same garden lit from twenty positions reads as a car park.

Why landscape lighting stops working, and what keeps it alive

  • Corroded or improperly made connections, which is the single most common failure and the one a proper waterproof connector prevents.
  • Voltage drop that has crept in as fixtures were added to an existing run, leaving the end of the line dim and yellow.
  • Cable cut by an edger, a spade, a fence post or a later irrigation trench, which is why the as-built drawing is worth insisting on.
  • Fixtures swallowed by growth, so a well light that once grazed a trunk now lights the underside of a shrub.
  • Lenses fogged or pitted by sprinkler water and lawn chemicals, which dims output long before a lamp fails.
  • Transformers left on a photocell that a growing hedge now shades, so the system runs in daylight.
  • Frost heave and settlement tilting stake-mounted fixtures out of aim over a winter.
  • Mixed lamp replacements over the years, producing a patchwork of color temperatures across one garden.

What drives a landscape lighting quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Two landscape lighting bids usually differ because they describe different designs, not different hardware. The variables are the number of fixtures and the number of separate techniques in the plan, the total run length and how much trenching crosses lawn, paving or roots, transformer size and how many are needed, whether a protected line-voltage supply already exists at the transformer location or has to be installed by an electrician, the controller and how the system is switched, whether the design is documented as a drawing or improvised on site, and whether aiming after dark and a season of adjustment are included. Ask for the fixture schedule and the as-built commitment in writing.

LokalMatch is the introduction, not the installer. Describe the garden, what you want lit and whether there is already outdoor power near the house, and contractors who work in your area receive that request; the ones who want it contact you. Pros pay for the requests they receive and homeowners are never charged. LokalMatch does not design or install lighting, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so confirming who is licensed to do the line-voltage part in your state, and that the locate ticket is filed before digging, stays with you.

Landscape Lighting: frequently asked questions

Does landscape lighting need a permit?

Often not for the low-voltage part, and that is deliberate. Washington treats low-voltage circuits for underground landscape lighting as exempt from its licensing and permitting requirements because their electrical failure does not inherently or functionally compromise safety to life or property, provided the power comes from a listed Class 2 power supply, the line voltage equipment and conductors supplying the system are installed and terminated by appropriately licensed electrical contractors and electricians, and the work is not in the scope of the pool, fountain and similar installations article. Other states draw the line differently, so ask locally.

Can my landscaper do the whole job, or do I need an electrician?

Usually both, in sequence. California's C-27 Landscaping Contractor classification covers constructing, maintaining, repairing and installing landscape systems and facilities designed to improve the grounds within or surrounding a structure or plot of land, and includes preparing and grading for that work; electrical contracting is a separate classification. In practice a licensed electrician establishes the protected line-voltage supply at the transformer, and the landscape trade does everything downstream of the listed low-voltage supply.

Do I really have to call 811 for a shallow landscape lighting trench?

Yes. Locate obligations attach to excavation rather than to a depth. Pennsylvania's Public Utility Commission states that homeowners and contractors must call 8-1-1 at least three business days before starting any digging or excavation project, as required by law, so facility owners can be notified and can mark their buried lines. Your own state sets its own notice period, so use that one, and do not let a crew begin before the marks are on the ground.

Why do the fixtures at the far end of the run look dimmer?

That is voltage drop, and it is a design fault rather than a lamp fault. It usually appears after fixtures have been added to a run that was sized for fewer, or where everything was daisy-chained on one long cable instead of being split into hub or loop runs. The fix is to rework the runs and the transformer taps rather than to keep replacing lamps. Ask any installer how they plan to handle drop before the trench is dug.

How do I keep landscape lighting from annoying my neighbours?

Aim it and shield it, and check it from their side of the fence rather than from yours. The National Park Service recommends lighting only if needed, only when needed using timers or motion sensors, only where needed with shielded fixtures directed down, in warm-white or amber rather than blue-white light, and with the minimum amount of light needed. Some cities go further: Boulder requires fixtures to obscure the bulb from view, permits no light to project upward, and requires spot and flood lights to be aimed so they do not shine across property lines.

Sources

  1. WAC 296-46B-901: exemptions for low-voltage underground landscape lighting circuits
  2. California Contractors State License Board: C-27 Landscaping Contractor classification
  3. Pennsylvania Public Utility Commission: PA One Call - 811
  4. National Park Service Night Skies: outdoor lighting at home
  5. City of Boulder, Colorado: Outdoor Lighting Ordinance

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 21, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of landscape lighting

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type and amount of work, from a single fixture to a full rewire
  • Condition and age of the existing wiring
  • Panel and service capacity
  • Distance from the panel to the new circuit
  • Access through finished walls and ceilings
  • Permits and inspections

How to compare lighting installers before you hire

  • Hire a licensed electrician or electrical contractor for any wiring, panel or new circuit work.
  • Ask whether the work needs a permit and inspection, and make sure the electrician arranges it.
  • Get a written quote that lists fixtures, materials, patching of walls and ceilings, and permit costs.
  • For panel upgrades and EV chargers, ask them to check whether your electrical service can handle the added load.
  • Choose someone who explains what they found in plain language before starting.

Questions to ask lighting installers before you hire

  • Are you licensed for electrical work in my area?
  • Will you get the permit and arrange the inspection?
  • Can my current panel and service handle this work?
  • Will you need to open walls or ceilings, and who patches them afterwards?
  • Is the price fixed, or could it change once you see the existing wiring?
  • What warranty do you offer on your work?

When to call a pro for landscape lighting

  • Burning smells, scorch marks or warm outlets and switches: turn off the circuit at the panel if it's safe to do so and call an electrician.
  • Breakers that trip again and again
  • Flickering or dimming lights that aren't fixed by changing the bulb
  • Any sparking, buzzing or exposed wiring

Landscape lighting permits and local rules

Some landscape lighting work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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