Skip to content
LokalMatch

Irrigation

Irrigation near you

An irrigation system is plumbing that lives outdoors and runs while you sleep, which is why the faults are so easy to miss and so expensive to leave alone. EPA reports that outdoor water use accounts for more than 30 percent of total household water use on average and can be as much as 60 percent in arid regions, and that as much as 50 percent of the water used outdoors is lost to wind, evaporation and runoff caused by inefficient irrigation methods and systems. A household with an automatic landscape irrigation system that is not properly maintained and operated can waste up to 25,000 gallons of water annually.

Tell us about your irrigation project and we’ll help you find local irrigation contractors who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

On this page

Who may install one is a state question. Texas is the clearest example of a state that licenses the work directly: a person may not sell, design, install, maintain, alter, repair, service or inspect an irrigation system in that state, or consult on those activities, unless licensed by the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality, and connecting a system to a water supply, including installing a backflow prevention device, falls to a licensed irrigator or an irrigation technician. Elsewhere the requirement may be a plumbing or general contractor license, a local registration, or nothing at all.

Certification is separate from licensing. EPA lists professionals who have completed a WaterSense labeled certification program in irrigation system design, installation and maintenance, and auditing, in a directory searchable by ZIP code.

The parts of a residential system, and what each one gets wrong

Understanding the components makes a quote readable, because most of what you are paying for is buried and most of what fails is one of six things.

  • Controller: the timer that decides when and how long each zone runs, and the single component most responsible for wasted water when nobody reprograms it.
  • Zone valves: electrically opened valves that feed one section at a time, since few homes have the pressure and flow to run everything at once.
  • Spray heads: fixed heads throwing a fan pattern over small areas, easily blocked by grass, knocked out of alignment or broken by a mower.
  • Rotors: heads that turn a stream across larger lawn areas, needing correct arc and radius settings to avoid soaking the driveway.
  • Drip and micro-irrigation: tubing and emitters that deliver water at the soil in beds, the most efficient option and the easiest to damage while weeding.
  • Backflow prevention: the assembly that stops irrigation water being drawn back into drinking water, which is why the connection to the supply is regulated.
  • Sensors: rain, freeze and soil moisture devices that stop a cycle the landscape does not need.

How a system is designed and installed

A good installation starts with measurements rather than a parts list: the available pressure and flow at the meter, the shape and slope of the yard, sun and shade, soil type, and the separate water needs of lawn, beds and trees. Those numbers set the number of zones. A system designed without them is the usual reason one zone floods while another never wets the soil more than an inch down, and no amount of controller programming fixes a hydraulic mistake afterwards.

The install itself is trenching, laying mainline and lateral pipe, setting valves in accessible boxes, placing heads so their spray patterns overlap, making the supply connection with the required backflow protection, running wire back to the controller, then flushing, pressurizing and adjusting every head. The part that decides how the system performs for the next decade is the last hour: the walkthrough where each zone is run in front of you, run times are explained and written down, and you are shown where the shutoff, the valves and the controller manual are.

Licensing, backflow protection and the 811 call before trenching

Because an irrigation system connects to the drinking water supply and then sits in soil, fertilizer and pet waste, the connection point is the regulated part. Texas separates the roles precisely: a licensed irrigator may sell, design, consult, install, maintain, alter, repair or service a system, including the connection to a public or private water supply; an irrigation technician may connect the system to a water supply, including installing a backflow prevention device, and may work on a system under a licensed irrigator's supervision; and an irrigation inspector determines whether the system complies with the rules and whether the appropriate backflow prevention device is installed. Your own state may regulate this through plumbing licensing instead, and your water utility may require a tested backflow assembly regardless.

Trenching brings a second obligation that applies everywhere. 811 is the national number to call before digging, and the notice period is set by state law: Washington's utilities commission tells excavators to give two to ten full business days notice before the scheduled work-to-begin date, notes that the service is provided free to the excavator and that state law requires underground utilities to be located before digging, and requires marks to be maintained for 45 days or until the project is complete, whichever is shorter. Utilities repeat the same instruction to homeowners, with PG&E asking customers to call 811 at least two working days before digging or planting and noting that crews mark underground utilities for free. Irrigation trenches, valve boxes and even deep planting holes all qualify, so confirm the ticket was filed and that the marks are on the ground before the trencher arrives.

Clock timers, weather-based controllers and soil moisture sensors

The oldest controllers do one thing: run a fixed schedule until someone changes it. That is why a system installed for a new lawn is often still watering it as though the sod were laid last week, through rain, through cool weather and through the seasons. The replacements are smarter in two different ways. EPA explains that weather-based irrigation controllers use local weather and landscape conditions to tailor watering schedules, while soil moisture-based irrigation controllers monitor moisture levels in the soil to prevent irrigation when water is not needed.

The savings are real but conditional. EPA states that replacing a standard clock-based controller with a WaterSense labeled irrigation controller can save an average home up to 15,000 gallons of water annually, and that with proper installation, programming and maintenance, homeowners and businesses can use labeled controllers instead of clock-based controllers and no longer worry about wasted water. EPA also notes that a well managed system can reduce a household's irrigation water use by 15 percent, or nearly 7,600 gallons annually. A smart controller installed on a badly zoned system with misaimed heads simply automates the same waste, so pair the upgrade with an audit rather than treating it as a substitute for one.

The seasonal tune-up: inspect, connect, direct, select

EPA frames irrigation maintenance around four checks, and they are the same four a professional runs at the start of a season. Inspect, because missing or broken sprinkler heads can be hard to find when most systems run overnight or early in the morning. Connect, because leaks occur at the joints between sprinklers and piping, and leaking joints can also signal too much water pressure or particles in the water. Direct, because any sprinklers spraying onto driveways, sidewalks or walls should be turned toward the landscape. Select, because a WaterSense labeled controller uses local weather data or soil moisture to adjust the schedule automatically.

An audit goes further than a visual check. A professional certified through a WaterSense labeled program in system audits measures how evenly each zone applies water, checks pressure and head spacing, and converts the result into run times per zone rather than one number for the whole yard. Ask for the findings in writing, including which heads were replaced, what the pressure readings were, and the recommended schedule by season. EPA's directory of certified professionals is searchable by ZIP code and by whether the pro is available for hire, which is a practical way to confirm a credential a company mentions.

Signs your system is quietly wasting water

  • A patch of lawn that is greener, spongy or never dries out, which usually means a leaking lateral line or a cracked fitting below it.
  • Water running down the driveway or gutter during a cycle, which is runoff rather than irrigation and is what cycle-and-soak scheduling is designed to stop.
  • Heads spraying pavement, fences or walls, an easy fix that EPA lists among its core maintenance checks.
  • Misting rather than droplets at the heads, typically a sign of pressure too high for the nozzles installed.
  • Zones that run in the middle of the day, when EPA warns the hot sun evaporates much of the water before it reaches thirsty plants.
  • A controller still on the schedule the installer set, running the same minutes in October as in July.
  • Dry rings between heads, which point to spacing or arc problems that lengthening the run time will not solve.

Winterization, spring start-up and local watering rules

Across the northern half of the country the season ends with winterization: shutting off the supply, draining or blowing out the lines and protecting the backflow assembly, because water left in a lateral or in an assembly body can split it when it freezes. Spring start-up is the reverse, pressurizing slowly, walking every zone and replacing what the winter and the mower broke. In the mildest parts of the South and Southwest, systems run year round and the seasonal work is rescheduling rather than draining, though a hard freeze warning still means protecting exposed components.

Schedules are also set by rules rather than weather in much of the country. Many water utilities assign watering days and hours by address, restrict daytime irrigation outright, and tighten the rules further during drought stages, with separate allowances for a newly installed lawn while it establishes. Those rules change how a system should be designed as well as programmed: fewer permitted days pushes a design toward drip in beds, larger mulched areas, plants grouped by water need and turf limited to the part of the yard that is actually used. Check your own utility's current stage before agreeing to a schedule, and tell the contractor what it says.

What drives an irrigation quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Two irrigation bids diverge mainly on design, not on sprinkler brands. The variables are the irrigated area and how many zones the available pressure and flow force it into, the mix of spray, rotor and drip, the type of backflow assembly your utility or state requires and who is licensed to install it, trenching conditions such as rock, roots and existing hardscape, the controller and any sensors, and whether the price includes a documented walkthrough, a season of adjustments and a winterization visit. For repairs, the drivers are how buried the fault is and whether the diagnosis is included in the price.

LokalMatch is where it begins. You describe the property once: the size of the area to be watered, whether you want a new system, an extension or a repair, what the lawn and beds need, and what your utility allows. Irrigation contractors serving your area receive the request, and the ones interested contact you. Pros pay for the requests they receive, and homeowners use the service at no charge. LokalMatch does not install or repair irrigation systems, does not set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so verifying the state license where one is required, the backflow requirements of your utility and the written scope stays with you.

Irrigation: frequently asked questions

Does an irrigation contractor need a license?

It depends on the state, and in some it is strict. Texas provides that a person may not sell, design, install, maintain, alter, repair, service or inspect an irrigation system, or consult on those activities, unless licensed by the TCEQ, with separate licences for irrigators, irrigation technicians and irrigation inspectors. Other states handle it through plumbing or contractor licensing, or not at all. Ask your state agency and your water utility, since the utility may have backflow requirements of its own.

Is a WaterSense labeled controller worth the upgrade?

EPA says replacing a standard clock-based controller with a WaterSense labeled irrigation controller can save an average home up to 15,000 gallons of water annually, because weather-based controllers tailor schedules to local weather and landscape conditions and soil moisture-based controllers prevent irrigation when water is not needed. EPA also stresses that the savings depend on proper installation, programming and maintenance, so have the heads, pressure and zone times audited at the same time.

Do I really have to call 811 to dig a shallow irrigation trench?

Yes. Locate requirements apply to excavation generally, not to a minimum depth. Washington's utilities commission tells excavators to give two to ten full business days notice before the work-to-begin date, notes the service is free and that state law requires utilities to be located before digging, and requires marks to be maintained for 45 days or until the project is finished. PG&E similarly asks customers to call at least two working days before digging or planting.

How much water does a poorly maintained system actually waste?

EPA reports that a household with an automatic landscape irrigation system that is not properly maintained and operated can waste up to 25,000 gallons of water annually, and that as much as 50 percent of the water used outdoors is lost to wind, evaporation and runoff caused by inefficient irrigation methods and systems. A well managed system, by EPA's figures, can cut a household's irrigation water use by 15 percent, or nearly 7,600 gallons a year.

How do I check whether a company's irrigation certification is real?

EPA maintains a directory of professionals who have completed a WaterSense labeled certification program, covering irrigation system design, installation and maintenance, and system audits. It is searchable by ZIP code and distance and can be filtered by certification type and by whether the professional is available for hire. Certification is not the same thing as a state licence, so check both where your state requires one.

Should the system run every day?

Rarely. EPA's guidance is that a landscape typically needs about one inch of water a week including rainfall, delivered in fewer, deeper waterings that encourage deeper roots, and warns against midday watering because the hot sun evaporates much of it first. If water starts to pool, the cycle is too long for the soil, and splitting it into shorter intervals with soak time in between delivers the same water without runoff. Many utilities also cap how many days a week you may irrigate.

Sources

  1. EPA WaterSense: Statistics and Facts
  2. EPA WaterSense: Irrigation Controllers
  3. EPA WaterSense: Sprinkler Spruce-Up
  4. EPA WaterSense: Watering Tips
  5. EPA WaterSense: Directory of Certified Irrigation Professionals
  6. Texas Commission on Environmental Quality: Landscape Irrigator, Technician and Inspector Licensing
  7. Washington Utilities and Transportation Commission: Dig Law
  8. PG&E: Call 811 Before You Dig or Plant

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

Find irrigation contractors by city

Alaska

Show 1 cities

California

Show 186 cities

Delaware

Show 1 cities

Florida

Show 82 cities

Maine

Show 1 cities

Texas

Show 79 cities

What affects the cost of irrigation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the yard and the scope of the design
  • Grading, excavation and drainage work
  • Hardscape materials, such as stone, pavers or wood
  • Plants, sod and soil
  • Access for machinery
  • Removal of old materials, trees or stumps
  • How often visits are scheduled for ongoing services

How to compare irrigation contractors before you hire

  • Choose a company that does the kind of work you need, since design, lawn care, tree work and hardscaping are different specialties.
  • For big projects, ask for a site plan or drawing before work starts.
  • Ask how they'll handle grading and drainage so water moves away from the house.
  • For tree removal or large pruning, look for a qualified arborist with liability insurance.
  • For ongoing services like lawn care or snow removal, get the visit schedule and what's included in writing.

Questions to ask irrigation contractors before you hire

  • Can I see a plan or drawing before you start?
  • How will you handle drainage and grading?
  • Will you have underground utilities located before you dig?
  • Does any of this work need a permit, such as for a retaining wall, fence or tree removal?
  • What plants or materials do you recommend for our climate and my yard's sun and shade?
  • Do you guarantee plants or sod, and for what conditions?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?

When to call a pro for irrigation

  • Water that pools near the house or in the yard after rain
  • A tree that is leaning, cracked or has large dead branches over the house or a driveway
  • A retaining wall that is bulging, leaning or cracking

Irrigation permits and local rules

Some irrigation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Free project calculators

Ready to get irrigation quotes?

Tell us about your irrigation project.

Do you offer irrigation services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.