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Brick Repair

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Brick repair is the narrower trade inside masonry: replacing individual units that have failed, rebuilding small areas, and above all repointing, which means cutting out mortar that has deteriorated and refilling the joint. On most American brick houses, repointing is the repair that actually keeps water out, and it is the one where technique separates a job that lasts decades from one that damages the wall permanently.

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Brick fails for two reasons. Water saturates the wall and freezes, breaking the face off in thin layers, or a previous repair used a mortar harder and less permeable than the brick, so the moisture that used to escape through the joints now escapes through the units instead. The National Park Service's guidance on repointing is direct about the consequence: deterioration caused by salt deposition results when the mortar is less permeable than the masonry unit, and in a wall of soft brick a soft, high-lime mortar is necessary to retain sufficient permeability.

The other half of doing it right is joint preparation, which is where power tools have ruined more historic brick than weather ever did. Done properly, repointing is quiet, slow, hand-intensive work, scheduled around the weather, and priced accordingly. Licensing sits with your state, and permits with your city or county.

Signs your brickwork needs repair rather than washing

  • Mortar that can be raked out with a key or crumbles when touched, especially on the weather elevation and near grade.
  • Joints eroded well back from the face of the brick, leaving a ledge that holds water against the wall.
  • Brick faces flaking, blistering or shedding thin layers, which is spalling and does not reverse.
  • Hairline cracks running through joints in a stair-step pattern, which indicate movement rather than worn mortar.
  • Loose or drummy bricks that move under hand pressure, particularly on steps, sills, parapets and chimney stacks.
  • Damp patches, staining or peeling paint on the inside face of a brick wall.
  • Earlier repairs in a grey, hard mortar smeared over the face, often with the surrounding brick faces already breaking down.
  • Rust staining and lifted courses above a steel lintel at a window or door head.

Joint preparation: how deep, and with what tools

Depth decides whether new mortar stays put. The National Park Service specifies removing old mortar to a minimum depth of two to two and a half times the width of the joint to ensure an adequate bond and prevent popouts, with more removed where mortar behind that point is loose or disintegrated, and notes that stone masonry with wide joints may require removal to a depth of several inches. Shallow scraping and a skim of fresh mortar over sound-looking joints is the classic false economy: it falls out within a few seasons.

Tools are the contentious part. The traditional method is hand chisels and mash hammers, and although labour-intensive, in most instances it poses the least threat of damage to historic masonry units and produces the best final product. Power saws and grinders are common, and the Park Service is unambiguous about the risk: their use by unskilled masons can be disastrous for historic masonry, particularly soft brick, and using power saws on walls with thin joints almost always damages the units by breaking edges and overcutting the vertical joints. Where mechanical tools are used at all, they should be limited to horizontal joints in hard portland cement mortar and never used on vertical joints because of the danger of slipping into the brick above or below.

The practical test is the sample panel. Cut a small representative area first, look at the arises of the brick afterwards, and only then decide whether that crew and those tools should touch the rest of the wall.

Choosing a repointing mortar for the brick you actually have

The criteria are straightforward once the goal is understood. New mortar should match the old in colour, texture and tooling; the sand should match the sand in the existing mortar; and the mix must be as vapour permeable and as soft or softer than what is there now, and softer than the brick itself. Hardness is not the same thing as permeability, and old, hard lime mortars can still be highly permeable, which is why matching by compressive strength alone misses the point.

Mortar types under ASTM C 270 run from high-strength mixes down to soft, high-lime ones, and the choice should follow the wall. A strong mix belongs on hard, dense stone carrying real load; a soft, high-lime mix belongs on a wall of soft brick. Modern additives are mostly unnecessary in this work, and antifreeze compounds in particular are not recommended because they are ineffective in high-lime mortars and can introduce salts that cause efflorescence later.

Colour matching is empirical, not theoretical. Make a small sample of the proposed mix, let it cure for about a week at room temperature, break it open and compare it against the original before committing to an elevation. Wet mortar tells you nothing about the colour of cured mortar.

Grinder damage and silica dust: two ways a repair goes wrong

The visible failure is overcut joints. When a grinder slips, it takes the corner off the brick above or below, and every one of those chips is permanent, widening the joint line and changing the pattern of the wall forever. Photographs in the federal preservation guidance show exactly this damage to the edges and corners of historic brick caused by mechanical raking. If a crew proposes to grind out the joints, ask where they have done it before and go look at that wall.

The invisible failure is what everyone breathes. Cutting and grinding masonry releases respirable crystalline silica, and the federal construction standard sets a permissible exposure limit of 50 micrograms per cubic metre as an eight-hour time-weighted average, with an action level of 25 that triggers exposure assessment obligations. For handheld grinders used for mortar removal, the standard's listed control is a commercially available shroud and dust collection system providing 25 cubic feet per minute of airflow per inch of wheel diameter, filtration of at least 99 percent efficiency and a cyclonic pre-separator or filter-cleaning mechanism, with respiratory protection required at a higher assigned protection factor once the task exceeds four hours in a shift.

If the house predates 1978 and painted brick or painted trim will be disturbed, EPA's rule adds a second requirement: the firm must be lead-safe certified with trained workers. EPA treats projects disturbing 20 square feet or less of exterior painted surface as minor repair and maintenance, but that exemption does not apply where the work involves window replacement, demolition of painted surfaces or any prohibited work practice, and a repointing job of any size runs past it quickly.

The weather window for repointing in the United States

Mortar needs water to cure, so both freezing and baking ruin it. The National Park Service's scheduling guidance is that wall temperatures between 40 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit will prevent freezing or excessive evaporation of the water in the mortar, and that repointing should ideally be done in shade, away from strong sunlight, to slow the drying process during hot weather. On a large job, shade can be built into the scaffolding.

That window shapes when this work should be booked. In northern states, spring through fall is the season and late fall work gets risky; in the South and Southwest, early mornings and shaded elevations matter more than the calendar. Where cold is unavoidable, the recommended practice is to warm the sand and water and protect completed work from freezing rather than to reach for antifreeze additives.

Plan for the wall to be wet-cured and protected, not simply pointed and left. A crew that turns up in a January cold snap promising to point the north elevation is proposing a repair you will pay for twice.

Spot repointing, whole walls and when to rebuild

Repointing only the failed areas is the preferred approach, and it is also cheaper. The Park Service notes that it is preferable to repoint only those areas that require work rather than an entire wall as is often specified, but adds the practical counterweight: if 25 to 50 percent or more of a wall needs repointing, doing the whole wall may be more cost effective than spot work, and total repointing can also make sense where access is difficult enough that scaffolding dominates the job.

Replacing individual bricks is normal where units have spalled through or cracked, and the honest limitation is matching. Current production rarely matches a weathered wall exactly, salvaged brick varies in size and hardness, and a hard modern brick set into a soft old wall creates the same permeability mismatch as a hard mortar does.

Rebuilding a section becomes the right answer when a wall has bowed or lost its ties, when a parapet or chimney stack has come apart, or when a failed lintel has lifted everything above an opening. Those are structural conditions, not joint conditions, and pointing over them hides a problem that gets more expensive every year.

Who may do brick repair where you live, and how LokalMatch fits in

There is no federal contractor licence, so the answer is state-specific. California licenses masonry work under a dedicated classification covering baked clay products, block, natural and manufactured stone and refractory materials. Virginia licenses contractors in classes set by the value of the contract and the value of work in a twelve-month period, with masonry contracting as a listed specialty. Florida's statutory contractor categories do not include masonry, and its law says a person whose job scope does not substantially correspond to one of those categories is not required to register with the board, so the check there is local registration and insurance rather than a state licence.

Permits follow the same local logic. Repointing is generally maintenance; rebuilding a structural wall, altering an opening or building a retaining wall above a threshold height usually is not. Ask your building department before work starts, and confirm that the contractor doing the work is the one named on any permit.

LokalMatch handles only the first step of finding someone. You post the brick problem once, with photographs and a note about the age of the house, and masons covering your ZIP code contact you; the pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not perform repairs, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any of them, so checking licensing, lead certification for pre-1978 houses and insurance remains your responsibility.

Brick Repair: frequently asked questions

How deep should old mortar be cut out before repointing?

Federal preservation guidance calls for removing mortar to a minimum depth of two to two and a half times the width of the joint, plus anything loose or disintegrated beyond that. Stone masonry with wide joints can need several inches. Anything shallower will not bond, and the fresh mortar falls out of the joint within a few years.

Is it safe to grind out mortar joints with a power tool?

Only in narrow circumstances and only in skilled hands. The guidance limits mechanical tools to horizontal joints in hard portland cement mortar, warns that they should never be used on vertical joints because of the danger of slipping into the brick, and notes that power saws on thin joints almost always damage the units. It also requires that the last of the mortar be taken out of the sides of the joint by hand chisel.

Why is my brick flaking after the wall was repointed?

That is the classic sign of mortar that is harder and less permeable than the brick. Moisture that used to leave the wall through the joints now leaves through the units, and salt deposition takes the faces off. It cannot be undone; the wall has to be repointed correctly in a softer, more permeable mortar to stop it going further.

Can repointing be done in winter?

Not comfortably. The recommended range is wall temperatures between 40 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit, which prevents the water in the mortar either freezing or evaporating too fast. In cold conditions the accepted practice is warming the sand and water and protecting finished work from frost, not adding antifreeze compounds, which are ineffective in high-lime mortars and can cause efflorescence later.

Should I repoint the whole wall or only the bad spots?

Spot repointing is preferred where the rest of the joints are sound. The usual crossover point is when roughly a quarter to a half of a wall needs work, at which point doing the whole elevation is often more cost effective, particularly where scaffolding is the expensive part of reaching it.

My house was built in 1940. Does the lead rule affect a brick repair?

It does if painted surfaces will be disturbed. EPA requires firms paid to disturb painted surfaces in homes built before 1978 to be certified with trained workers. Small exterior jobs disturbing 20 square feet or less of painted surface are treated as minor repair and maintenance, but not where the work involves window replacement, demolition of painted surfaces or a prohibited work practice.

Sources

  1. NPS Preservation Brief 2: repointing mortar joints in historic masonry buildings
  2. 29 CFR 1926.1153: respirable crystalline silica in construction
  3. EPA: Renovation, Repair and Painting Program for pre-1978 housing
  4. EPA: the six and 20 square foot minor repair and maintenance thresholds
  5. CSLB: C-29 Masonry classification (California)
  6. Code of Virginia 54.1-1100: contractor licence classes
  7. Florida Statutes 489.117: registration and job scopes outside state categories

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of brick repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the area and the height of the walls
  • Material chosen
  • Removal of the existing material
  • Repairs needed to what's underneath
  • Access, including ladders, scaffolding or lifts
  • Trim, corners and openings to work around

How to compare masons before you hire

  • Choose a pro who works regularly with your material, whether that's siding, stucco, brick, eavestroughs or soffit and fascia.
  • Ask them to explain what's causing the problem, not only how they'll cover it up.
  • Get a written quote that separates removal, repairs to what's underneath and the new finish.
  • For chimney and masonry work, look for someone with specific masonry experience rather than a general handyman.
  • Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or scaffolding.

Questions to ask masons before you hire

  • What do you think is causing the damage, and will your work fix the cause?
  • Will you check the sheathing or wall underneath once the old material is off?
  • How will you handle water management, such as flashing, caulking and drainage?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

When to call a pro for brick repair

  • Gutters that overflow, pull away from the house or drain next to the foundation
  • Loose, cracked or bulging siding, stucco or brick
  • Crumbling mortar or loose bricks on a chimney

Brick repair permits and local rules

Some brick repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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