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Metal Roofing

Metal Roofing near you

Metal roofing in America is principally a nineteenth-century phenomenon, as the National Park Service puts it in its guidance on historic roofs. Galvanizing with zinc to protect the base metal from rust was developed in France in 1837 and reached American post offices, customhouses, train sheds and factories by the 1850s; tin-plate iron, commonly called tin roofing, became the most common roofing material once rolling mills were established here, and terne plate, iron dipped in an alloy of lead and tin, gave a duller finish. Copper, zinc and lead all have their own American histories. Today the same trade covers standing-seam panels, exposed-fastener panels and metal shingles.

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Homeowners now choose metal for two reasons that can be checked rather than asserted. The first is behavior in a storm: under the IBHS FORTIFIED standard, metal roof panels must be tested for site-specific design pressures, and a roof seeking the optional Hail Supplement must use panels meeting the UL 2218 Class 4 impact rating. The second is heat. EPA's cool roof guidance treats solar reflectance as the property that decides how much of the sun a roof sends back, and metal is one of the materials where that number varies most between products.

Who is licensed to install it can be more than one trade. Arizona, for instance, includes metal roofing systems in the scope of both its roofing classification and its sheet metal classification, the latter also covering flashings, gutters, leaders and skylights. That is a good reminder to ask a metal roofing bidder which license they hold and what it permits, rather than assuming the categories line up.

Standing seam, exposed-fastener panels and metal shingles on American houses

  • Standing-seam panels: the seams stand above the water plane and the panels are held by concealed clips, so no fastener penetrates the weather surface in the field of the roof.
  • Exposed-fastener corrugated and ribbed panels: quicker and cheaper to install, with gasketed screws through the face that become the maintenance item as the gaskets age.
  • Metal shingles, tiles and shakes: stamped profiles that read like a conventional covering from the street and install in courses rather than in long runs.
  • Copper and zinc: long-lived architectural metals usually chosen for appearance and detailing, installed by a much smaller pool of crews.
  • Historic tin plate and terne plate: found on nineteenth-century houses, often painted, and repaired rather than replaced where the building is protected.
  • Coated steel and aluminum: the volume products, where the coating system rather than the base metal decides how the roof weathers.
  • Low-slope metal assemblies: a different product family again, since a panel designed for a steep roof is not a substitute for a membrane on a nearly flat one.

Reflectance, coatings and why a shiny roof is not automatically a cool roof

EPA's cool roofs compendium chapter puts numbers on the range. Traditional roofing materials have a low solar reflectance of 5 to 15 percent, which means they absorb 85 to 95 percent of the energy reaching them, while the coolest roof materials have a solar reflectance above 65 percent and absorb and transfer 35 percent or less of it. Metal sits across almost the whole range: about half of the products on the ENERGY STAR Roof Products List as of April 2008 were metal roofing products for steep-sloped roofs, with initial solar reflectances from roughly 20 to 90 percent. Cool-colored metal products use infrared-reflecting pigments and, EPA notes, have high durability and long life.

There is a catch worth knowing before you assume bare metal is the efficient choice. The same EPA material points out that bare metal or metallic-surfaced roofs have high reflectance but low thermal emittance, and emittance is how readily a surface gives up the heat it did absorb. Reflectance and emittance are two different properties, and a painted or coated panel can outperform a bright mill finish on the second one.

EPA also reports what a reflective roof does at the meter: in air-conditioned residential buildings, solar reflectance from a cool roof can reduce peak cooling demand by 11 to 27 percent, while in cold climates reflecting sunlight can raise heating energy use in winter, a penalty EPA describes as typically offset by summer cooling savings. If reflectance is part of your reason for choosing metal, ask for the product's rated values; the Cool Roof Rating Council runs the program that lists and labels roofing products with their solar reflectance and thermal emittance.

Galvanic corrosion, fasteners and the chemistry that eats metal roofs

The failure mode specific to metal is corrosion, and the Park Service guidance is unusually clear about why it happens. Corrosion from galvanic action occurs when dissimilar metals, such as copper and iron, are used in direct contact, and it can occur even when the metals are physically separated, because one reacts chemically against the other in the presence of an electrolyte such as rainwater. The classic examples given are a copper roof decorated with iron cresting, and steel nails used in copper sheets. Where the situation cannot be avoided, a plastic insulator between the materials can prevent it, and the fasteners should ideally be a metal sympathetic to the ones they join.

Coatings are the other vulnerability. Iron rusts unless it is well painted or plated, and tin plating or galvanizing is durable only as long as the coating remains intact; once the plating is worn or damaged, the exposed iron rusts, which is why any iron-based roofing material needs to be undercoated and kept well painted. Sheet metals of all kinds also deteriorate by pitting or streaking from airborne pollutants, acid rainwater, acids from lichen or moss, alkalis from lime mortars or portland cement washing down from adjoining features, and tannic acids from adjacent wood sheathing or shingles made of red cedar or oak.

That last item explains a surprising number of premature failures: a metal valley below a cedar roof, or a copper gutter under an oak-shaded slope, is being attacked chemically as well as physically. It is also why a bid should say what metal the fasteners, flashings and drip edge are, not only what the panels are.

What a metal roof installation has to get right

  • Panels tested for the design pressures at your site, which is what the FORTIFIED standard requires of metal roof panels rather than a general wind claim.
  • A deck that is sound and correctly fastened, since the sealed, ring-shank-nailed deck the FORTIFIED standard calls for sits under any roof cover, metal included.
  • A clearly specified fastening system, concealed clips on standing seam or gasketed screws at a stated spacing on exposed-fastener panels.
  • Allowance for thermal movement, which is why long panels are detailed to expand rather than being pinned at both ends.
  • Flashing, valley and penetration details fabricated from a compatible metal, not simply sealed with caulk.
  • Edge metal and eave detailing, the region where wind damage usually starts and where the FORTIFIED standard specifies a wider drip edge.
  • A plan for the transitions, since most houses with a metal roof also have a porch or dormer that needs a different assembly.

Choosing metal over another covering, and what the comparison should actually weigh

Compare assemblies rather than materials. A standing-seam roof and an exposed-fastener roof are both metal and behave differently over twenty years, because one has no fasteners through the weather surface in the field and the other has hundreds of gaskets. Similarly, a metal roof and an asphalt roof are only comparable when the deck preparation, underlayment and flashing scope are the same in both quotes.

In a hail market, weigh the ratings against the finish. IBHS requires metal panels to meet the UL 2218 Class 4 impact rating for the optional Hail Supplement, but impact resistance is about the panel keeping water out, not about it staying unmarked; cosmetic denting is a separate conversation to have with your insurer before you buy. In a wind market, the panel's tested design pressures and the edge detail carry more weight than the gauge quoted on a brochure.

LokalMatch handles the introductions for either path: describe the metal roof once, including the roof shape, the current covering and whether you are after standing seam, panels or metal shingles, and roofing companies working in your area contact you. Those pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install roofing, does not set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any company, so compare the panel and fastener specifications, the flashing metals and the warranty terms yourself.

Which license covers metal roofing where you live

Arizona shows how the same work can sit in two categories. Its roofing classification, issued as R-42 for residential work and C-42 for commercial, covers installing and repairing roof tile, shingles, shakes, slate and metal roofing systems along with the weatherproofing and roof accessories, such as flashing, valleys, gravel stops and sheet metal, that the job requires. Its sheet metal classification, R-45 for residential and C-45 for commercial, separately covers sheet metal, cornices, flashings, gutters, leaders, duct work, skylights, metal flues and metal roofing systems. Either may be the right license for a metal roof, so the question to ask is which one the company holds.

Elsewhere the structure differs again. In Virginia a contractor license has two halves doing different jobs: one is tied to how large a contract the firm may sign, the other to the kind of work it is permitted to perform, and the Board for Contractors licenses tradesmen separately from firms. Washington registers contractors rather than examining the trade, and gives homeowners a verification tool for checking that a registration is active and that the contractor is bonded and insured, along with a Homeowner Recovery Fund for eligible homeowners when a project goes wrong.

Permits sit on a separate track from licensing and are local almost everywhere. A re-roof in metal frequently brings a deck inspection before the panels go on, and that inspection is the one independent look anyone will get at the part of the assembly you will never see again. Confirm with your building department which inspections apply and that the company doing the work is named on the permit.

Keeping a metal roof sound over its long life

  • Check exposed fasteners periodically on panel roofs, since the gaskets, not the steel, usually fail first.
  • Keep leaves, needles and other debris off valleys and out of gutters, because trapped organic material holds moisture and acids against the metal.
  • Watch where dissimilar metals meet, especially fasteners, flashing and any later addition such as a satellite mount or a solar rail.
  • Keep the coating intact on painted and plated products, and treat scratches from foot traffic or falling limbs rather than leaving bare metal exposed.
  • Look at the metal under trees first, since tannic acids from red cedar and oak, and acids from lichen and moss, attack sheet metals.
  • Keep snow guards, vents and any rooftop equipment on the schedule too, since their flashings age faster than the panels do.
  • Hire the inspection rather than walking the roof, because panels are slippery and a foot in the wrong place dents them.

Metal Roofing: frequently asked questions

Will a metal roof keep my house cooler?

It can, but the number on the product decides it, not the material. EPA reports that traditional roofing materials have a solar reflectance of only 5 to 15 percent while the coolest materials are above 65 percent, and that metal roofing products on the ENERGY STAR list as of April 2008 spanned initial solar reflectances of roughly 20 to 90 percent. EPA also notes that in air-conditioned homes a cool roof can cut peak cooling demand by 11 to 27 percent. Ask for the product's rated reflectance and emittance values rather than assuming.

Is bare, shiny metal the most efficient roof?

Not necessarily. EPA's cool roof material points out that bare metal or metallic-surfaced roofs have high reflectance but low thermal emittance, and emittance is how readily a surface releases the heat it did absorb. Both properties matter, which is why coated and cool-colored metal products, which use infrared-reflecting pigments, often perform better overall than a bright mill finish. Compare the two rated values together rather than judging by how bright the panel looks.

Why do roofers warn about mixing metals?

Because of galvanic corrosion. National Park Service guidance explains that it occurs when dissimilar metals such as copper and iron are in direct contact, and that it can happen even when they are separated, since one metal reacts against the other in the presence of an electrolyte such as rainwater. Steel nails in copper sheets are the textbook example. Where the combination cannot be avoided, a plastic insulator can prevent it, and fasteners should be a metal sympathetic to the ones they join.

Does a metal roof hold up to hail?

The rating to ask for is UL 2218 Class 4, which IBHS requires of metal roof panels for the optional Hail Supplement to a FORTIFIED designation, alongside its base requirement that panels be tested for site-specific design pressures. Keep in mind that an impact rating is about the roof continuing to keep water out; cosmetic denting is a separate question, and how your policy treats it is worth confirming with your insurer before you choose a profile.

Who is licensed to install a metal roof?

It depends on how your state divides the trades. Arizona includes metal roofing systems in both its roofing classification and its sheet metal classification, the latter also covering flashings, gutters, leaders and skylights, so either licensee may legitimately do the work. Virginia licenses by class and classification, and Washington registers contractors and lets you verify that the registration is active, bonded and insured. Ask which license the company holds, then confirm it on the state agency's own lookup.

Sources

  1. National Park Service Preservation Brief 4: roofing for historic buildings
  2. EPA: reducing urban heat islands, chapter 4, cool roofs
  3. EPA: using cool roofs to reduce heat islands
  4. IBHS: FORTIFIED Roof requirements for roof covers
  5. Arizona Registrar of Contractors: license classifications, including R-45 and C-45 Sheet Metal
  6. Virginia Department of Professional and Occupational Regulation: Board for Contractors
  7. Washington State Department of Labor and Industries: hiring a contractor

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 14, 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of metal roofing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Roof size and the number of layers to remove
  • Roofing material
  • Slope and how steep the roof is to work on
  • Access to the roof and the site
  • Condition of the decking underneath
  • Flashing, vents, skylights and chimneys to work around
  • Amount of repair work compared with a full replacement

How to compare metal roofers before you hire

  • Ask for a written quote that lists the materials, the scope of work and what happens if damaged decking is found once the old roof is off.
  • Look for a roofer who inspects the roof in person, including the attic if possible, before giving you a price.
  • Check that they carry liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage, since roof work is high-risk.
  • Compare quotes on the same scope: tear-off or overlay, underlayment, flashing, vents and cleanup.
  • Ask to see recent roofs they've done that are similar to yours in material and slope.

Questions to ask metal roofers before you hire

  • Will you remove the old roofing or install over it, and why?
  • How will you handle damaged decking or other surprises once the roof is open?
  • Who will pull the permit if one is needed?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship, and how long does it last?
  • How will you protect my yard, gutters and siding, and how will you clean up nails and debris?
  • Will your own crew do the work, or will you use subcontractors?

When to call a pro for metal roofing

  • Water stains on ceilings or in the attic after rain or snowmelt
  • Missing, curled or cracked shingles, or granules collecting in the gutters
  • Sagging areas on the roof, which should be looked at by a professional right away
  • Ice dams that keep forming along the edge of the roof

Metal roofing permits and local rules

Some metal roofing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

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