Skip to content
LokalMatch

Roofers

Roofers near you

There is no single national licence for roofers in the United Kingdom, which surprises homeowners who assume the trade is registered the way gas work is. What exists instead is a set of rules the finished roof has to satisfy, and a scheme that lets a roofer certify their own work against them. Replacing a roof covering is building work: GOV.UK lists replacing roof coverings among the jobs needing building regulations approval in England and Wales, and a contractor registered with CompetentRoofer, run by the National Federation of Roofing Contractors, can self-certify it rather than you applying to building control.

Tell us about your roofing project and we’ll help you find local roofers who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

On this page

The rest of the job is shaped by where the house sits and how the roof is reached. A listed building or a home in a conservation area may not be free to change its covering at all. Scaffolding and the Work at Height Regulations 2005 govern the programme, and HSE reports that nearly one-fifth of construction deaths involve roof work, which is why nothing here suggests going up there yourself.

Scotland and Northern Ireland run their own systems, so check locally before assuming the England and Wales position applies to your postcode.

Building Regulations when you re-roof: who notifies, and the 25 per cent rule

Replacing a roof covering is notifiable building work in England and Wales. GOV.UK names replacing windows, doors or roof coverings among the projects needing building regulations approval, and there are two ways to get it: apply to a building control body, meaning your council's building control department or a registered private approver, or use a contractor registered with a competent person scheme who certifies the work themselves.

GOV.UK's list of authorised schemes names CompetentRoofer, operated by the National Federation of Roofing Contractors Limited, and NAPIT for replacement of roof coverings on pitched and flat roofs including necessary connected work. The Ministry of Housing, Communities and Local Government authorises the schemes, and members must show they meet the minimum technical competence requirements for the work they self-certify.

Insulation is the requirement homeowners miss. The Planning Portal states that where loft insulation is installed as part of a roof renovation project in which more than 25 per cent of the roof is being renewed, the level of insulation should meet the standards required by the Approved Documents, and that where such an upgrade is not technically or functionally feasible the element should be upgraded to the best standard achievable within a simple payback of no greater than 15 years. Approved Document L covers energy performance in England; Approved Document A covers loadings and the construction of the structural elements, including roofs.

Listed buildings and conservation areas: when the roof covering is not your choice

Britain's older housing stock carries planning controls with no equivalent in most markets. National planning practice guidance is blunt about listed buildings: any works to demolish any part of a listed building, or to alter or extend it in a way that affects its character as a building of special architectural or historic interest, require listed building consent. Swapping natural slate for concrete tiles is exactly that kind of alteration, and the guidance warns that even minor works have the potential to cause substantial harm depending on the nature of their impact on the asset and its setting.

Conservation areas work differently. The Planning Portal's position is that work to the roof of a house which does not materially affect its external appearance will usually not require planning permission, but a council can withdraw that freedom with an Article 4 direction, after which changing the roofing material needs an application. Ask the local planning authority before materials are ordered, not after the scaffold goes up.

Roof coverings on British houses: slate, clay and concrete tiles, lead and flat roofs

  • Natural slate: traditional across much of Wales, the north of England and Scotland, hung on battens with nails or hooks, and a slope that is slipping is often suffering nail fatigue rather than failed slate.
  • Clay plain tiles and pantiles: common in the south and east, laid in large numbers at a steep pitch, and brittle enough that walking a slope damages more than it diagnoses.
  • Concrete interlocking tiles: the usual post-war covering and considerably heavier than slate, so changing between the two is a structural question as much as an appearance one.
  • Lead: still the standard material for valleys, flashings, chimney soakers and small flat areas, and most leaks blamed on tiles turn out to be failures where lead meets masonry.
  • Flat roofs: felt, single-ply membrane, liquid systems and mastic asphalt over garages, back additions and dormers, where the falls and the outlets matter more than the covering itself.
  • Asbestos cement: HSE states asbestos was widely used until 1999, when it was banned, and lists cement products including roofs and flues among typical locations, so garage and outbuilding roofs on anything built or refurbished before 2000 should be treated as suspect until checked.

Signs a British roof needs attention

  • Slates or tiles on the ground after a gale, or a visible gap in a slope seen from the garden or the pavement.
  • A damp patch on a ceiling or a chimney breast that darkens after driving rain rather than after someone has run a bath.
  • Daylight visible in the loft, or underfelt that has torn or is sagging between the rafters.
  • Staining, plant growth or blocked outlets in the gutters, with water running down the render or brickwork below.
  • A flat roof still holding standing water a day after the rain stopped.
  • Lead flashing that has lifted, split, or been pointed over with mortar as somebody's temporary fix.

Leak, condensation or penetrating damp? Telling roof faults apart

Not every wet patch under a roof is a leak. Government guidance on damp separates penetrating damp, which is water getting into the building from outside due to defects in the walls, roofs, windows or floors, from condensation, which occurs when moisture generated inside the home cools and condenses onto colder parts. A loft that is wet on the underside of the felt on a cold morning with no rain overnight usually has a ventilation problem rather than a roofing one.

Blocking the eaves is a common own goal. Insulation pushed hard into the eaves stops the airflow that keeps a cold loft dry, and the Planning Portal's loft insulation guidance specifically warns that care should be taken not to block any ventilation at the edges. A roofer quoting to insulate as part of a re-roof should be able to say how the loft will still breathe afterwards.

Scaffolding, access and the Work at Height Regulations

Access is a real and visible part of a roofing job. HSE guidance on roof work says work must be organised and planned so it is carried out safely, that scaffolding is required on sloping roofs to prevent falls with edge protection fitted at the eaves and, on terraced properties, to the front and rear edges, and that all roofs should be presumed fragile until a competent person confirms otherwise.

Regulation 6 of the Work at Height Regulations 2005 sets the order of decisions: employers must ensure work is not carried out at height where it is reasonably practicable to carry it out safely otherwise than at height, must then take suitable and sufficient measures to prevent any person falling a distance liable to cause personal injury so far as is reasonably practicable, and only then minimise the distance and consequences of a fall. HSE summarises it as avoid, prevent, minimise.

For the scaffold itself, HSE expects either a generally recognised standard configuration such as NASC TG20 or a design by a competent person proven by calculation, erection only by competent scaffolders, and inspection following installation and before first use and at an interval of no more than every seven days after that. Ask who is supplying the scaffold and who holds the inspection record.

Storm damage: what to do before the roofer arrives

  • Stay on the ground. HSE links nearly one-fifth of construction deaths to roof work, and the same falls happen to homeowners with a ladder and good intentions.
  • Move what you can indoors and put a container under an active drip; lift rugs and electrical items rather than trying to catch water at roof level.
  • Photograph the damage from the ground and from inside the loft before anything is cleared or covered.
  • Treat an unsolicited offer of immediate repair from someone calling at the door after a storm with caution, and check the firm independently before agreeing to anything.
  • Ask whether a temporary covering is being fitted and what removing it later involves, because a sheeted roof is a stopgap and not a repair.
  • Tell your insurer promptly, since storm claims generally need to be notified before permanent work starts.

Keeping a roof going between now and its replacement

  • Clear gutters and hopper heads at least twice a year and again once the leaves have finished falling, because overflowing gutters soak walls and produce penetrating damp that reads like a roof leak.
  • Check flashings and the chimney after a gale instead of waiting for a ceiling stain to appear.
  • Look into the loft with a torch on a wet day and again on a cold dry morning: the first trip finds leaks, the second finds condensation.
  • Keep the ventilation path at the eaves clear whenever loft insulation is topped up.
  • Cut back branches that rub the covering or drop debris into valleys and gutters.
  • Keep moss growth in check on shaded north-facing slopes, and have it removed by someone working from a scaffold or tower rather than off a ladder.

The paperwork to keep: compliance certificates and guarantees

Where a competent person scheme member does the work, the certificate is your proof the job was notified and compliant. GOV.UK is direct about why that matters: without approval you will not have the certificates of compliance you may need when you want to sell your home. File whatever the scheme issues with the deeds, together with the quotation, the specification and any structural advice you were given.

TrustMark is the government-endorsed quality scheme for work in and around the home, backed by the Department for Energy Security and Net Zero and the Department for Business and Trade, and registered businesses commit to its standards and its complaints process. A guarantee is only worth whatever stands behind it, so ask in writing who honours it if the firm stops trading.

Roofers: frequently asked questions

Do roofers in the UK need a licence?

There is no single national roofing licence. What is regulated is the work itself: GOV.UK lists replacing roof coverings among the jobs needing building regulations approval in England and Wales, and names CompetentRoofer, run by the National Federation of Roofing Contractors, and NAPIT as the authorised competent person schemes whose members can self-certify it. A roofer outside a scheme may still do the work, but somebody then has to apply to a building control body instead.

Do I need planning permission to re-roof my house?

Usually not. The Planning Portal says work to the roof of a house that does not materially affect its external appearance will usually not require planning permission. The exceptions are the ones that matter: a listed building needs listed building consent for significant works, and in a conservation area an Article 4 direction can require permission to change the roofing material. Ask the local planning authority before committing to materials.

My roof is being re-covered. Will I have to insulate the loft as well?

Very probably, if enough of the roof is coming off. The Planning Portal states that where loft insulation is installed as part of a roof renovation project in which more than 25 per cent of the roof is being renewed, the insulation should meet the standards required by the Approved Documents, with a best-achievable standard inside a simple payback of no greater than 15 years where a full upgrade is not technically or functionally feasible. Ask for the insulation specification to be shown on the quotation.

Is the damp patch in my loft a leak or condensation?

Timing tells you most of it. Water that appears during or shortly after driving rain, and dries afterwards, points to penetrating damp through the covering, a flashing or a valley. Moisture that beads on the underside of the felt on a cold, still morning without rain is condensation from the house below, and the fix is ventilation and airtightness rather than roofing. Government guidance on damp treats them as separate problems with separate causes, and so should any quotation you accept.

What about asbestos in an old garage or outbuilding roof?

HSE says asbestos was widely used until 1999, when it was banned, so any building constructed or refurbished before 2000 may contain it, with cement products such as roofs, flues and pipes among the typical locations. Do not drill, break or remove suspect sheets. HSE's advice is not to attempt repair or removal without training for non-licensed asbestos work, to leave undamaged material in place and monitor it, and to use an HSE-licensed contractor for materials such as insulating board, with disposal arranged as hazardous waste.

Do the same rules apply in Scotland and Northern Ireland?

No. Scotland operates a building warrant system under the Building (Scotland) Act 2003, where local authority verifiers grant permission for work to be done and for a completed building to be occupied, with its own technical handbooks. Northern Ireland has its own building regulations set out in technical booklets and administered through Building Control Northern Ireland. The England and Wales Approved Documents and competent person schemes do not carry across the border.

How does LokalMatch work for roofing?

You describe the roof and the problem once, and roofers covering your postcode get in touch with you directly. The pros pay for the requests they receive, so posting one costs a homeowner nothing. LokalMatch does not carry out roofing work and does not set prices, and it does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so checking scheme registration, insurance and recent local work remains yours to do.

Sources

  1. GOV.UK: Building regulations approval
  2. GOV.UK: Competent person scheme: current schemes and how schemes are authorised
  3. Planning Portal: Roof — planning permission
  4. Planning Portal: Building Regulations — loft insulation
  5. HSE: Roof work
  6. HSE: Scaffolding
  7. The Work at Height Regulations 2005, regulation 6
  8. HSE: Asbestos frequently asked questions
  9. GOV.UK: Conserving and enhancing the historic environment
  10. GOV.UK: Approved Document A — structure
  11. Scottish Government: Building standards
  12. Building Control Northern Ireland
  13. TrustMark: the government-endorsed quality scheme

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What roofers can help with

Common jobs homeowners hire roofers for:

Find roofers by city

England

Show 173 cities

What affects the cost of roofing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Roof size and the number of layers to remove
  • Roofing material
  • Slope and how steep the roof is to work on
  • Access to the roof and the site
  • Condition of the decking underneath
  • Flashing, vents, skylights and chimneys to work around
  • Amount of repair work compared with a full replacement

How to compare roofers before you hire

  • Ask for a written quote that lists the materials, the scope of work and what happens if damaged decking is found once the old roof is off.
  • Look for a roofer who inspects the roof in person, including the attic if possible, before giving you a price.
  • Check that they carry liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage, since roof work is high-risk.
  • Compare quotes on the same scope: tear-off or overlay, underlayment, flashing, vents and cleanup.
  • Ask to see recent roofs they've done that are similar to yours in material and slope.

Questions to ask roofers before you hire

  • Will you remove the old roofing or install over it, and why?
  • How will you handle damaged decking or other surprises once the roof is open?
  • Who will pull the permit if one is needed?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship, and how long does it last?
  • How will you protect my yard, gutters and siding, and how will you clean up nails and debris?
  • Will your own crew do the work, or will you use subcontractors?

When to call a pro for roofing

  • Water stains on ceilings or in the attic after rain or snowmelt
  • Missing, curled or cracked shingles, or granules collecting in the gutters
  • Sagging areas on the roof, which should be looked at by a professional right away
  • Ice dams that keep forming along the edge of the roof

Roofing permits and local rules

Some roofing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:

Free project calculators

Ready to get roofing quotes?

Tell us about your roofing project.

Do you offer roofing services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.