Cedar Roofing
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Cedar roofing means western red cedar shingles or shakes laid in courses on battens, and in Britain it is a minority covering rather than a mainstream one. It appears on lodges, garden buildings, contemporary self-builds, extensions where the architect wanted the roof and the walls to be the same material, and occasionally as a replacement for an original wood-shingled roof. Shingles are sawn on both faces and lie flat and regular; shakes are split, thicker and more textured, and the two do not detail identically.
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The reason it is a minority covering is partly the British climate and partly the fire rules. A timber roof on a damp, shaded, north-facing slope in a temperate maritime climate stays wet for long periods, and organic growth on it is not cosmetic. And unlike slate or clay, a wood shingle's fire performance is not assumed in your favour: Approved Document B Volume 1, the England fire safety guidance for dwellings, says at paragraph 12.9 that if the performance of thatch or wood shingles cannot be established, they should be regarded as having an EROOF(t4) classification in Table 12.1 — which is near the bottom of the scale that decides how close to a boundary a covering may be used.
None of that makes cedar a bad choice. It makes it a choice that has to be made early, with the boundary distances, the ventilation detail and the maintenance regime settled before anyone orders the material.
Approved Document B, Section 12, and how close to the boundary a wood roof may be
Section 12 of Approved Document B Volume 1 deals with resisting fire spread over roof coverings. It defines the separation distance as the minimum distance from the roof, or part of the roof, to the relevant boundary, and Table 12.1 then sets out which covering designations are acceptable at less than 6 metres, at least 6 metres, at least 12 metres and at least 20 metres from that boundary, with the answer also depending on the size and use of the building. BROOF(t4) and CROOF(t4) coverings are acceptable throughout the table; the lower designations are progressively restricted as the boundary gets closer.
Paragraph 12.9 is the paragraph that matters for cedar. If the performance of thatch or wood shingles cannot be established, they should be regarded as EROOF(t4). The notes to Table 12.1 add restrictions of their own on the lower designations: they are not acceptable on dwellinghouses in terraces of three or more, or on other buildings with a cubic capacity of more than 1500 cubic metres, with a narrow concession for small isolated parts of a roof surrounded by a material of class A2-s3, d2 or better.
The practical reading for a homeowner is this. If a supplier can produce a tested classification for the specific product and its fixing method, the conversation is about that classification. If they cannot, building control will work from the assumption in 12.9, and on a tight urban plot or a terrace that can rule the material out before anything else is discussed. Ask for the classification in writing at quotation stage rather than after the battens are up. Approved Document B is England guidance; Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland publish their own, and the Scottish and Northern Irish systems differ in structure as well as in detail.
Shingles, shakes, grades and what holds them on
- Sawn shingles: uniform thickness and a flat face, laid to a regular gauge, giving the tidier and more architectural appearance.
- Hand-split or re-sawn shakes: thicker, uneven and more rustic, needing a different headlap and usually an interlayment between courses.
- Grade matters more than species marketing: the top grade is clear, edge-grained heartwood, and lower grades contain sapwood and flat grain that cup and split sooner.
- Fixings must outlive the timber: cedar is acidic and corrodes ordinary steel, so stainless steel nails or staples are the specification to insist on.
- Battens and counter-battens create the drainage and ventilation path that a wood roof depends on far more than a slate roof does.
- Preservative and fire-retardant treatments exist, are applied under factory control rather than with a brush on site, and should come with documentation.
- Ridge, hip and valley pieces are a separate purchase and a separate skill, and are where a cedar roof most often leaks.
Why a cedar roof is built to breathe on both faces
A wood shingle roof is not a sealed skin. It swells when wet and shrinks when dry, the joints between shingles open and close with the weather, and water that gets past the face is expected to run down the layer below and out. Approved Document C, the England guidance on resistance to moisture, recognises exactly this arrangement: a roof meets the requirement if it has overlapping dry joints, is impervious or weather resisting, and is backed by a material which will direct precipitation which enters the roof towards the outer face. It lists wood among the weather-resisting materials in its technical solutions, alongside natural stone or slate, cement-based products and fired clay.
What makes the difference between a cedar roof that lasts and one that rots is the air behind it. The shingles have to be able to dry from underneath as well as from above, which is why the specification uses counter-battens to create a continuous ventilated and drained cavity rather than laying shingles straight onto a membrane or a deck. Approved Document C's parallel guidance for cladding makes the same point about timber on walls, requiring the space between the cladding and the building to be ventilated to ensure rapid drying of any water that penetrates it.
The rest is geometry. Steeper pitches shed faster and last longer. Headlap, exposure to the weather and the offsetting of joints between courses are set by the manufacturer and are not a matter of taste. Every fixing should be concealed by the course above, and each unit should be fixed appropriately, which Approved Document C addresses by pointing at the workmanship code of practice for slating and tiling, BS 8000-6:1990.
What shortens a cedar roof in a British climate
- Permanent shade from trees or a neighbouring building, which keeps the surface damp and feeds organic growth all year.
- Overhanging branches, which drop debris into the courses and hold water against the timber where it cannot dry.
- A shallow pitch, which slows run-off and lengthens the time each shingle stays saturated.
- Trapped moisture underneath, from a missing or blocked ventilation cavity, which rots shingles from the back while the face still looks sound.
- Corroding fixings, which let individual shingles slip long before the timber itself has failed.
- Debris in valleys and at abutments, which dams water back under the courses in exactly the places that are hardest to see.
- Pressure washing, which strips the weathered surface, drives water into the laps and shortens the life of the roof it was meant to clean.
Cedar against the coverings it usually competes with in Britain
Against slate and clay, cedar is lighter, warmer in appearance and easier to work around curves and turrets, and it is the only one of the three that changes colour noticeably over its life. It is also the only one whose fire classification you may have to prove rather than assume, and the only one that can rot. On a rural plot with generous boundary distances that trade is often worth making; on a terraced street it frequently is not.
Against a modern composite or a fibre-cement slate, cedar wins on appearance and loses on predictability. A synthetic product arrives with a declared classification and a defined service life; cedar's performance depends on grade, pitch, orientation, ventilation and how much of the year it spends wet. The honest comparison is not material against material but roof against roof: the same cedar on a steep south-facing slope in an open landscape and on a shallow shaded rear elevation are two different propositions.
The one comparison worth resisting is with North American practice, where cedar roofing is a mainstream product with a large installed base and a deep pool of experienced fitters. In Britain the pool is small, which makes the choice of contractor a bigger variable than the choice of shingle.
Keeping a wood roof alive without wrecking it
- Keep gutters, valleys and abutments clear so water leaves the roof rather than sitting in the courses.
- Cut trees back so the slope gets some sun and air, which does more for a cedar roof than any product.
- Inspect from the ground with binoculars after gales, looking for slipped, split or lifted shingles rather than for discoloration.
- Leave the silvering alone: colour change is the material behaving normally and is not a sign of failure.
- Replace individual damaged shingles promptly, since one gap lets water at the layer that is protecting everything below.
- Never pressure wash, and treat any contractor who offers to as someone who has not worked on a cedar roof before.
- Keep the ventilation path at the eaves and ridge unobstructed when insulation or solar equipment is added later.
What drives a cedar roofing quote, and how LokalMatch fits in
Cedar is priced on material grade and on labour hours, and both are higher than for a comparable slate or tile roof. The variables that move a quotation are the grade and thickness of shingle or shake specified, whether a tested fire classification is required for the position of the building, the pitch and the area, the number of hips, valleys, dormers and abutments where the work slows right down, the ventilation build-up behind the covering, the fixings specified, and how far the contractor has to travel, because the trade is thin on the ground in much of Britain. Scaffolding and waste removal sit on top as they do on any re-roof.
LokalMatch introduces you to contractors and stops there. Describe the roof once with your postcode — the area, the pitch, what is on it now, and whether this is a new build, an extension or a replacement — and firms working in your area respond to you directly. Homeowners are never charged for posting a request; the pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not install roofs, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so asking for the fire classification, previous cedar work you can look at, and a written ventilation detail is work only you can do.
Cedar Roofing: frequently asked questions
Can I put a cedar roof on a terraced house?
Very possibly not, and the reason is fire spread rather than appearance. Approved Document B Volume 1 says at paragraph 12.9 that if the performance of thatch or wood shingles cannot be established they should be regarded as EROOF(t4) in Table 12.1, and the notes to that table make the lower designations unacceptable on dwellinghouses in terraces of three or more dwellinghouses, and on other buildings with a cubic capacity of more than 1500 cubic metres. If your supplier can evidence a better tested classification, the position changes, so get that in writing before you commit.
How long does a cedar roof last in the UK?
There is no single honest figure, because the variables swamp the material. Pitch, orientation, shade, the grade of shingle, the fixings and above all whether the roof can dry from underneath will each change the answer by years. A steep, sunny, well-ventilated cedar roof kept clear of debris behaves very differently from a shallow, shaded one laid tight to a membrane. Ask any contractor quoting to show you a cedar roof they laid at least ten years ago in a similar position rather than to quote a number.
Do cedar shingles need treating?
Factory-applied preservative and fire-retardant treatments exist and are worth asking about, particularly where a tested fire classification is needed. What is not worth doing is applying coatings on site to a laid roof. A wood shingle roof works by absorbing and releasing moisture through overlapping dry joints, and Approved Document C is explicit for roofs generally that the weather-resisting part of a roofing system does not include paint, or any coating, surfacing or rendering that will not itself provide all the weather resistance.
Why is my new cedar roof going grey and patchy?
Because that is what western red cedar does. The warm brown of a newly laid roof weathers to silver-grey, and it does so unevenly at first because exposure to sun and rain varies across a roof. It is not a defect and it is not a reason to clean or coat anything. What would be a defect is cupping, splitting or slipping units, dark staining concentrated below a valley or an abutment, or timber that is soft when a contractor checks it.
Can I lay cedar shingles straight onto the roof deck?
That is the classic way to lose a cedar roof early. The covering has to be able to dry from the back as well as the face, which means battens and counter-battens creating a ventilated, drained cavity rather than shingles fixed tight against a membrane or board. Approved Document C's cladding guidance makes the same point for timber on walls, requiring the space between the cladding and the building to be ventilated to ensure rapid drying of any water that penetrates it, and a roof is no more forgiving.
Is cedar roofing treated differently in Scotland?
Yes, in the sense that the whole system is different. Approved Document B applies in England, while Scotland works to its own building standards technical handbooks and a building warrant obtained from the council's building standards department, and Northern Ireland works to its own technical booklets. The underlying question — how close to a boundary a covering with unproven fire performance may be used — exists everywhere, but the document you check and the approval you need are not the same, so ask your building control body early rather than assuming the England guidance applies.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of cedar roofing
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Roof size and the number of layers to remove
- Roofing material
- Slope and how steep the roof is to work on
- Access to the roof and the site
- Condition of the decking underneath
- Flashing, vents, skylights and chimneys to work around
- Amount of repair work compared with a full replacement
How to compare roofers before you hire
- Ask for a written quote that lists the materials, the scope of work and what happens if damaged decking is found once the old roof is off.
- Look for a roofer who inspects the roof in person, including the attic if possible, before giving you a price.
- Check that they carry liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage, since roof work is high-risk.
- Compare quotes on the same scope: tear-off or overlay, underlayment, flashing, vents and cleanup.
- Ask to see recent roofs they've done that are similar to yours in material and slope.
Questions to ask roofers before you hire
- Will you remove the old roofing or install over it, and why?
- How will you handle damaged decking or other surprises once the roof is open?
- Who will pull the permit if one is needed?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship, and how long does it last?
- How will you protect my yard, gutters and siding, and how will you clean up nails and debris?
- Will your own crew do the work, or will you use subcontractors?
When to call a pro for cedar roofing
- Water stains on ceilings or in the attic after rain or snowmelt
- Missing, curled or cracked shingles, or granules collecting in the gutters
- Sagging areas on the roof, which should be looked at by a professional right away
- Ice dams that keep forming along the edge of the roof
Cedar roofing permits and local rules
Some cedar roofing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
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Guides about cedar roofing
- ✦
Roofers guide
There is no single national licence for roofers in the United Kingdom, which surprises homeowners who assume the trade is registered the way gas work is.
Read guide - ✦
Roof Repair guide
A roof repair in Britain is usually a small, targeted job on an old covering: a slate that has slipped out of a slope, mortar that has let go along a ridge, a lead flashing that has lifted where the roof meets a…
Read guide - ✦
Roof Replacement guide
Replacing a roof covering is notifiable building work in England and Wales, and the ordinary way homeowners satisfy that is through the installer.
Read guide
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