Masonry
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Masonry in Britain means brick, block and stone, and the trade splits roughly along the age of the building. Anything built before the First World War is likely to be solid walled and bedded in lime mortar, with the wall keeping weather out by being thick and by drying again between downpours. Anything built after the inter-war years is likely to be cavity walled in cement mortar, with an outer leaf, a gap, wall ties and an inner leaf, and the cavity doing the job the thickness used to do.
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That difference decides almost every decision a mason makes on an older house: what mortar to use, whether the wall is allowed to be sealed, how a lintel or a bay is supported, and whether a damp problem is a defect or simply a wall behaving as it was built to. A mason who treats a solid Georgian wall like a modern cavity wall will produce a smart-looking job that traps water inside it.
The work itself ranges from rebuilding a garden or boundary wall and cutting in a new lintel to underpinning, replacing wall ties, rebuilding a bay, repairing stonework and putting right movement. Much of it is structural, much of it is dusty in a way HSE takes seriously, and on a terrace a good deal of it touches a neighbour's property as well as your own.
The masonry a British house is actually built from
- Solid brick walls, commonly one brick thick with a bonding pattern that shows headers on the face, typical of terraces and villas up to the early twentieth century.
- Cavity brick and block walls, with a facing outer leaf, a cavity, wall ties and a blockwork inner leaf, standard from the inter-war period onwards.
- Natural stone, from rubble walling and random coursing to dressed ashlar, dominant across much of Scotland, the north, the west and the limestone belt.
- Concrete block, either fair-faced or intended to be rendered, and used for garages, outbuildings, garden walls and inner leaves.
- Lime mortar, softer and more permeable than the masonry units around it, which is why it, rather than the brick, is meant to take the movement and the wear.
- Cement mortar and modern mixes, strong and quick but unforgiving, and capable of destroying a soft brick or stone by being harder than the unit it beds.
- Reclaimed materials, often the only honest way to match an existing elevation where the original brick or stone is no longer produced.
Lime or cement: why the mortar matters more than the bricks
Mortar is meant to be the sacrificial part of a wall. It is the bit that takes the movement, carries moisture out to the face and is renewed every few generations, while the bricks or stones stay put. That only works if the mortar is weaker than the units it beds. On an older solid wall, which is typically built in lime, a hard cement repointing reverses the relationship: the wall still moves and still gets wet, but now the weakest thing in it is the face of the brick or stone, and that is what breaks off.
It also changes how the wall dries. A solid wall handles rain by absorbing some of it and releasing it again, and a permeable lime mortar gives that moisture a route back out. Seal the joints with something dense and the water leaves through the masonry face instead, taking dissolved salts with it and pushing the surface off in frost. This is why conservation practice on older and historic buildings is to repoint in a lime mortar matched to the original, and why a quotation that specifies one mix for every house on the street is a warning sign.
None of this makes cement wrong. On a modern cavity wall built in cement, in a mix matched to the existing, cement mortar is exactly right. The skill being bought is knowing which building is in front of you, and being able to explain the choice rather than reaching for whatever is in the van.
The masonry faults British masons are called to diagnose
Cracks are the common call, and the useful distinction is between a crack that has stopped and one that is still moving. Fine cracking that follows the joints, is stable through the seasons and appears at a change of material is usually old movement that has found its position. A crack that steps diagonally through the brickwork, is wider at one end, opens in a dry summer and closes in a wet winter, or runs through the units rather than around them, is telling you about the ground or the structure, and it needs a structural engineer's opinion before any mason fills it.
Wall tie failure is a particularly British problem in cavity walls of a certain age, where the metal ties corrode, expand and lift the outer leaf, showing as regular horizontal cracking at roughly the tie spacing and sometimes as a bulge in the elevation. Bulging and bowing also show up on solid walls where the bond has separated, and a wall that is no longer flat is a structural matter rather than a cosmetic one.
Then there is water, which is behind most of the rest. Failed rainwater goods soak one patch of wall repeatedly, ground levels raised above the damp-proof course let moisture bypass it, and a hard cement render or repointing stops the wall drying. The Planning Portal describes a damp-proof course as installed in a building to prevent rising or penetrating damp, creating a layer which prevents moisture from entering the walls, and Approved Document C is the England guidance on the resistance to moisture of floors, walls and roofs with examples of damp proofing and ventilation provisions.
Structural work, building control and your neighbour's wall
Structural masonry is squarely within the Building Regulations. Approved Document A is the England guidance covering the loadings on a building and the construction of the structural elements including the foundations, walls, floors, roofs and chimneys, so cutting in a beam, forming an opening, underpinning or rebuilding a load-bearing wall is building control work rather than maintenance. GOV.UK sets out the two routes for approval: a building control body, being your local authority's building control department or a private registered building control approver, or someone registered with a competent person scheme. Without approval you will not have the certificates of compliance you may need when you want to sell your home.
On a terrace or a semi, the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 is the other half of the paperwork, and it applies in England and Wales. GOV.UK's guidance covers work to an existing party wall or party structure, building a new wall on or at the boundary of two properties, and excavation near to and below the foundation level of neighbouring buildings, and requires notice to adjoining owners. Section 3 requires a party structure notice at least two months before the work begins. Section 6 catches excavation within three metres of a neighbour's building where the work will go deeper than the bottom of their foundations, and within six metres where it would meet a plane drawn downwards at forty-five degrees, and requires at least one month's notice, with the adjoining owner's failure to consent within fourteen days counting as dissent.
Heritage and geography change things again. Listed building consent is required for works that affect a listed building's character as a building of special architectural or historic interest, and doing them without consent is a criminal offence. In Scotland the equivalent of building control is the building warrant, which mygov.scot lists as needed for building or removing load-bearing walls and for changing external walls or other structural elements, granted by the council's building standards department and valid for three years, with an offence and a possible fine for starting without one. Northern Ireland works to technical booklets, with Booklet D covering structure.
How a masonry job should run, and the dust nobody mentions
A competent mason starts with the cause. That means looking at ground levels, rainwater goods, the damp-proof course, the age and construction of the wall and the pattern of any cracking before pricing the repair, and being willing to say that the wall needs monitoring or an engineer rather than mortar. Rebuilding work then proceeds in sections with proper support: needles and props where a load is being carried, the bond honoured rather than faked, ties and lintels specified rather than improvised, and new work left to gain strength before the support comes out.
Materials are matched, not approximated. Matching a brick means matching size, colour, texture and, on an old wall, the fact that it was handmade; matching a mortar means matching the mix and the sand as well as the colour, and finishing the joint in the same profile as the original. Good work on an old elevation should be difficult to find a year later.
The health risk is the part that rarely appears in a quotation. HSE describes silica as a natural substance found in varying amounts in most rocks, sand and clay and a major constituent of construction materials such as bricks, tiles, concrete and mortar, with dust generated during common tasks including cutting, drilling, grinding and polishing, and heavy and prolonged exposure to respirable crystalline silica capable of causing lung cancer and other serious respiratory diseases. HSE also states that over 500 construction workers are believed to die from exposure to silica dust every year, and that regularly breathing construction dust can cause diseases such as lung cancer, asthma, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease and silicosis. A firm cutting brick or grinding out joints on your property should be controlling that dust at source and wearing suitable respiratory protection, not producing a cloud over the garden.
What drives the price of masonry work
- Whether the work is structural, since needles, props, engineered lintels and a building control application are a different order of job from rebuilding a garden wall.
- Access and height, including scaffolding, and whether a pavement licence or a skip permit is needed on a street with no frontage.
- Matching materials, where reclaimed brick or a specific stone and a lime mortar mixed to suit are far from a bagged product.
- The condition of what is found once the wall is opened up, which is why the rate for unforeseen work should be agreed before anything is taken down.
- Heritage constraints on a listed building or in a conservation area, which can determine both the material and the method.
- Party wall procedures on a terrace or semi, including the time the statutory notice periods add to the programme.
- Dust control and waste, since cutting masonry properly means water suppression or on-tool extraction and a legal route for the spoil.
Looking after masonry between repairs
- Keep rainwater goods clear and working, because the same patch of wall soaked after every downpour is the origin of most masonry decay.
- Keep ground levels, paving and borders below the damp-proof course, and resist raising a patio against the wall.
- Watch cracks rather than filling them: mark the ends, date them, photograph them through a full year and see whether they move.
- Leave air bricks and sub-floor vents clear, and never render or plant over them.
- Deal with vegetation early, since ivy and buddleia in a joint are a structural problem in slow motion.
- Repoint in sections as joints open, rather than waiting until the whole elevation needs it and the brick faces have gone.
- Be sceptical of waterproof coatings sold for solid walls, which stop the wall drying outwards as readily as they stop rain going in.
Masonry: frequently asked questions
Does masonry work need building regulations approval?
Repointing and like-for-like repair generally do not. Structural work does: Approved Document A in England covers the loadings on a building and the construction of the structural elements including the foundations, walls, floors, roofs and chimneys, so forming an opening, inserting a beam, underpinning or rebuilding a load-bearing wall is building control work. GOV.UK gives two routes, a building control body or a registered competent person, and warns that without approval you will not have the certificates of compliance you may need when you want to sell your home.
Do I have to tell my neighbour before work on a shared wall?
In England and Wales, usually yes. GOV.UK's Party Wall etc. Act 1996 guidance covers work to an existing party wall or party structure, new walls at the boundary of two properties, and excavation near to and below the foundation level of neighbouring buildings, and requires a building owner to serve notice on adjoining owners. A party structure notice under section 3 must be served at least two months before the work begins. For excavation under section 6 the notice period is at least one month, and an adjoining owner who does not consent within fourteen days is treated as dissenting. The Act does not apply in Scotland or Northern Ireland.
Should my old house be repointed in lime or cement?
Ask the mason to justify the answer for your wall. The principle is that the mortar should be weaker and more permeable than the masonry it beds, so that the joints take the movement and let the wall dry, rather than the faces of the bricks or stones. Older solid walls were generally built in lime and behave that way; modern cavity walls were built in cement and should be matched accordingly. A contractor who cannot explain which your wall is, and why, is the wrong contractor for a period property.
Is the dust from cutting brick and mortar actually dangerous?
Yes, and it is one of the biggest health risks in the trade. HSE describes silica as a major constituent of construction materials such as bricks, tiles, concrete and mortar, with dust generated during common tasks including cutting, drilling, grinding and polishing, and says heavy and prolonged exposure to respirable crystalline silica can cause lung cancer and other serious respiratory diseases. It states that over 500 construction workers are believed to die from exposure to silica dust every year, and that regularly breathing construction dust can cause lung cancer, asthma, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease and silicosis. Expect dust to be controlled at source, not just a mask worn.
A crack has appeared in my wall. Is it subsidence?
Often it is not, but it is not a question for a mason with a bag of mortar. Note where the crack runs, whether it steps through the brickwork or follows the joints, whether it is wider at one end, and whether it changes between a dry summer and a wet winter. Photograph and date it over several months. Movement that is still active, or cracking that passes through the units rather than around them, needs a structural engineer's assessment and usually a conversation with your insurer before any repair is carried out.
How does LokalMatch work for masonry?
Set out the wall once, including its age and construction, what has gone wrong and whether anything structural or shared with a neighbour is involved, and masons working in your area respond to you directly. They pay for the requests they take on, so there is nothing for a homeowner to pay to post one. LokalMatch does not lay bricks, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any firm, so comparing quotations on the same scope and asking how dust and access will be handled is still your side of the job.
Sources
- GOV.UK: Approved Document A — structure
- GOV.UK: When you need building regulations approval
- GOV.UK: Party Wall etc. Act 1996 guidance
- Party Wall etc. Act 1996, section 3 (party structure notices)
- Party Wall etc. Act 1996, section 6 (adjacent excavation and construction)
- HSE: Silica dust in construction
- HSE: Construction dust
- GOV.UK: Approved Document C — site preparation and resistance to contaminants and moisture
- Planning Portal: Damp proofing
- GOV.UK: Conserving and enhancing the historic environment (planning practice guidance)
- mygov.scot: Getting a building warrant
- Department of Finance NI: building regulations technical booklets
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of masonry
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size of the area and the height of the walls
- Material chosen
- Removal of the existing material
- Repairs needed to what's underneath
- Access, including ladders, scaffolding or lifts
- Trim, corners and openings to work around
How to compare masons before you hire
- Choose a pro who works regularly with your material, whether that's siding, stucco, brick, eavestroughs or soffit and fascia.
- Ask them to explain what's causing the problem, not only how they'll cover it up.
- Get a written quote that separates removal, repairs to what's underneath and the new finish.
- For chimney and masonry work, look for someone with specific masonry experience rather than a general handyman.
- Check that they carry liability insurance, especially for work on ladders or scaffolding.
Questions to ask masons before you hire
- What do you think is causing the damage, and will your work fix the cause?
- Will you check the sheathing or wall underneath once the old material is off?
- How will you handle water management, such as flashing, caulking and drainage?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality, and who will get it?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
When to call a pro for masonry
- Gutters that overflow, pull away from the house or drain next to the foundation
- Loose, cracked or bulging siding, stucco or brick
- Crumbling mortar or loose bricks on a chimney
Masonry permits and local rules
Some masonry work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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